My parts just came in to build the front air feeds using the fang side openings. Don't expect much power to be gained though...Even the stock intake system runs only 8-10 degrees over ambient (IAT's) No report on the Stilled but it's pulling air from the same area..

This all will be DIY'd when I get my car back from the Body shop...

Some flanges to bolt to the fang openings and radiator pass-thru area and some very flexible Aeroduct hose to connect the two.
http://images49.fotki.com/v1521/phot...MG_1789-vi.jpg

Thought about this mod last night, and came up with a possible concern. We all know how hot tracks can get. Do you think the height of which the fangs are will actually bring in hot track air in lieu of the "cold air" we're looking for?

^See post 14. ;)

Apparently I never completed the first page of this thread, MY BAD!

I am not thinking the heat is the issue as much as getting good air flow to the intakes. Being trapped behind the bumper limits the airflow and having the ducts directly in front of them would be the optimal solution. But if we can force air up behind the bumper with ducts that should also work great.

All the air's coming in there anyway....Were you thinking roof snorkel??..;)

Looks like about mid-point on the grill opening..

http://images47.fotki.com/v1497/phot...MG_1736-vi.jpg

Glad you posted that pic, Modshack. The slots aren't nearly as low as I had pictured them in my head. Yeah I'm not worried about heat coming off the road anymore.

I still want to see the snorkel idea tested. LOL

Yeah...doesn't look so bad. I should be able to get on this toward the end of the week. Due to a Part needed for my repair that is not available til July, they're going to go ahead and fix the front end now, and the rear later..(sucks) but at least I'll have the car back soon. Built some experimental big ID MAF tubes today, so the whole project should be interesting..Cool air and more of it! :tup:

http://images50.fotki.com/v1512/phot...MG_1792-vi.jpg

Those look sweet.

You're probably more aware than I am, but just in case: beware larger MAF tubes giving false MAF readings. The stock MAF sensors are calibrated for a given tube diameter, and they will read artificially low airflow numbers in a larger tube (which results in the engine running lean and not realizing it, because the MAF input is wrong).

I think the wideband O2's in our headers will correct for this at idle/normal engine speeds, but maybe not at WOT. It may be moot anyways if our ECU's ability to predict knock and adjust timing in both directions is as good as some are claiming (e.g. in the threads about the engine adapting to higher octane fuel - in theory this is like an artificial boost in air density that the ECU can't directly see, which is a lot like dropping the fuel octane from a knock-avoidance point of view).

I don't really know anything definitive about this whole subject on our cars, but based on previous experience (LS1's from circa 10 years ago), you don't want to lie to the ECU about the MAF data, which is what a wider tube with stock sensor effectively does.

Well aware Wstar, but thanks. I've been building Bigger MAFs for Audi and VW turbos for 7-8 years now so I've learned some things along the way about matching fuel trims, Fuel pressure adjustments, Tube ID's etc. etc...

FYI here are a few MAF ID's

Stock 2.33"
Stillen 2.36" Estimate Based on typical wall thicknes of the 2.5" tube they use
Nismo 2.61" Estimate Based on ID of the 2.75" OD tube

I'm going to start out with these at 2.5" and see where it goes. I also have a venturi machined in at the inlet which tends to accelerate the flow a bit and bump the MAF output. The air will transition from a 3" filter flange to the venturi and 2.5" ID then expand a bit into a smooth 2.75 hose to the TB. This should enhance flow and volume.

A few tenths does make a difference in Surface area and MAF output. This car runs rich stock. My Scangauge reports a steady -8 to 9% rich correction (long term fuel trims in closed loop) unless driven hard and it'll drop to -4% for awhile. Typically when you nail the throttle and transition to open loop, these corrective factors get added to the pre-built open loop fuel map. The closer you can get to Zero, the closer you are to the Nissan spec'd preMapped fuel curves. There's enough headroom there to lean it out a bit and try to get the trims to 0%. These ECU's also seem to have a good adaptation range from what i've seen. I doubt the Nismo would go to that ID unless the car could adapt safely to it. Without having an adjustable Fuel pressure regulator, I'm just going to play with the air for now. Given that adjustability you could go bigger. Here's a little theory from my MoFo (Mass Oxygen Flow Optimizer!) page: Modshack | Stage 2 MOFO (BAMM)

Good info there, thanks :)

Got my damaged bumper back from the body shop...I think the front air feed idea is going to work out great. Need to Powdercoat the flanges black and mount to my new bumper when I get the car back next week...Stay tuned. I'll do up a DIY when this is done..
http://images35.fotki.com/v1172/phot...MG_1809-vi.jpg

http://images31.fotki.com/v1039/phot...MG_1810-vi.jpg

Looks like it should fit quite well.