Stillen g3 intake
 

so i decided to bite the bullet and buy the ultra long tube intake for my 370 with my graduation money. well i was a little upset that i just compulsively went to forged and ordered it. so i get it back and after the bogging from the ecu reseting i didn't really notice a change. well i drove it the next day and i def noticed the change it took a day to break in but the torque and sound diff. is huge. so i thought i would share my experience for those contemplating the idea. well worth the the 549 without install. and thanks to forged for helping me out.

Even on the dyno it requires a good 7-8 full runs to get the ECU adapted to the intake, so additional driving would have that same reaction.

Does need a little time with the ECU to get to full potential. I'm glad you're enjoying the extra HP.. sound is killer right around 5500rpm's isn't it? :)

yeah like at first i didnt notice anything and then out of the blue my car was totally different i never would have expected this much from an intake but Stillen really did an awesome job with this and i plan on using Stillen for all my modifications to come.

So Josh, with all that 370zdotcom said about fresh air really helping these intakes is there a possibility that you guys may present some sort of vent kit for the front bumper in the future? Or do you have suggestions on this?

The dyno results that have come out of technosquare are definitely different from results we've seen, and by the numerous others on this site, so it's hard for me to speak directly regarding that article.

Fresh air is fresh air, and obviously the cooler the air the increased benefit for an air intake system.

We rely on testing to determine results, and we have not tested the benefits directly relating the air intake and vented bumpers. There is a good chance we would not develop this type of product, and here is the reasoning:

1. We could develop a urethane piece that would work great by altering the factory fascia, requiring cutting and altering.. but for a lot of people, making such a significant change to their factory fascia would be a turnoff, and would require at least some proficiency of a body/paint shop to make sure cutting and installation were successful.

2. We could design a complete fascia with built in air passages for this reason, but a complete fascia brings the price way up, and the rest of the design would need to be one that was popular. Creating a urethane mold is an extremely expensive process, but one that nets the highest quality part, and volume sold is the only thing to bring that balance back.

Anything is possible, and we're open to what you the owners are looking for..

Mines seems to have the perfect idea but $$$

how much do those mines pieces cost?

I want to say something around $500

Josh, here's my suggestion. Make a kit that takes advantage of those little panels next to the 'fangs'. Those panels can be removed. So make little urethane pieces that bolt into those slots with an exact fit, then make some sort of tubing that attaches to the back of the pieces and directs the air right at the filters of the G3. I'll be happy to do independent testing for you. (I know, big surprise, right?) The nice thing about this idea is that there's no need to cut into the fascia, no need for new fascia, doesn't spoil the look of the stock fascia, etc., etc. And I bet it'd be relatively inexpensive too.

I'd be happy to bring this up in next new products meeting.. thanks for the suggestion.. :)

From what I was able to Google up, the Mine's air scoops are going to cost us about $1K, which seems silly for two tiny little ducts.

I'm all for a cheaper solution that uses the fangs, although others are also looking at using those same holes for front brake ducting too.

I would be interested in an intake kit that utilizes those holes as well. I have a feeling there would be a lot of power to be gained.

Do you think it would be possible to design an intake where the bumper would not have to be removed to change the air filter?

Just buy short ram

I've been thinking about this some more. The only potential downside to bringing in air from the fangs is that it might soak up heat from asphalt. That's why they don't design these things to draw air from low to the ground to begin with -- at a certain point you'll draw in heat rising from the surface and that'd be counter-productive. This is where R&D comes into play to figure out if the fang openings are too low to the ground.

I don't think this will really be an issue. Corvettes are notorious bottom-feeders.

My parts just came in to build the front air feeds using the fang side openings. Don't expect much power to be gained though...Even the stock intake system runs only 8-10 degrees over ambient (IAT's) No report on the Stilled but it's pulling air from the same area..

This all will be DIY'd when I get my car back from the Body shop...

Some flanges to bolt to the fang openings and radiator pass-thru area and some very flexible Aeroduct hose to connect the two.
http://images49.fotki.com/v1521/phot...MG_1789-vi.jpg

Thought about this mod last night, and came up with a possible concern. We all know how hot tracks can get. Do you think the height of which the fangs are will actually bring in hot track air in lieu of the "cold air" we're looking for?

^See post 14. ;)

Apparently I never completed the first page of this thread, MY BAD!

I am not thinking the heat is the issue as much as getting good air flow to the intakes. Being trapped behind the bumper limits the airflow and having the ducts directly in front of them would be the optimal solution. But if we can force air up behind the bumper with ducts that should also work great.

All the air's coming in there anyway....Were you thinking roof snorkel??..;)

Looks like about mid-point on the grill opening..

http://images47.fotki.com/v1497/phot...MG_1736-vi.jpg

Glad you posted that pic, Modshack. The slots aren't nearly as low as I had pictured them in my head. Yeah I'm not worried about heat coming off the road anymore.

I still want to see the snorkel idea tested. LOL

Yeah...doesn't look so bad. I should be able to get on this toward the end of the week. Due to a Part needed for my repair that is not available til July, they're going to go ahead and fix the front end now, and the rear later..(sucks) but at least I'll have the car back soon. Built some experimental big ID MAF tubes today, so the whole project should be interesting..Cool air and more of it! :tup:

http://images50.fotki.com/v1512/phot...MG_1792-vi.jpg

Those look sweet.

You're probably more aware than I am, but just in case: beware larger MAF tubes giving false MAF readings. The stock MAF sensors are calibrated for a given tube diameter, and they will read artificially low airflow numbers in a larger tube (which results in the engine running lean and not realizing it, because the MAF input is wrong).

I think the wideband O2's in our headers will correct for this at idle/normal engine speeds, but maybe not at WOT. It may be moot anyways if our ECU's ability to predict knock and adjust timing in both directions is as good as some are claiming (e.g. in the threads about the engine adapting to higher octane fuel - in theory this is like an artificial boost in air density that the ECU can't directly see, which is a lot like dropping the fuel octane from a knock-avoidance point of view).

I don't really know anything definitive about this whole subject on our cars, but based on previous experience (LS1's from circa 10 years ago), you don't want to lie to the ECU about the MAF data, which is what a wider tube with stock sensor effectively does.

Well aware Wstar, but thanks. I've been building Bigger MAFs for Audi and VW turbos for 7-8 years now so I've learned some things along the way about matching fuel trims, Fuel pressure adjustments, Tube ID's etc. etc...

FYI here are a few MAF ID's

Stock 2.33"
Stillen 2.36" Estimate Based on typical wall thicknes of the 2.5" tube they use
Nismo 2.61" Estimate Based on ID of the 2.75" OD tube

I'm going to start out with these at 2.5" and see where it goes. I also have a venturi machined in at the inlet which tends to accelerate the flow a bit and bump the MAF output. The air will transition from a 3" filter flange to the venturi and 2.5" ID then expand a bit into a smooth 2.75 hose to the TB. This should enhance flow and volume.

A few tenths does make a difference in Surface area and MAF output. This car runs rich stock. My Scangauge reports a steady -8 to 9% rich correction (long term fuel trims in closed loop) unless driven hard and it'll drop to -4% for awhile. Typically when you nail the throttle and transition to open loop, these corrective factors get added to the pre-built open loop fuel map. The closer you can get to Zero, the closer you are to the Nissan spec'd preMapped fuel curves. There's enough headroom there to lean it out a bit and try to get the trims to 0%. These ECU's also seem to have a good adaptation range from what i've seen. I doubt the Nismo would go to that ID unless the car could adapt safely to it. Without having an adjustable Fuel pressure regulator, I'm just going to play with the air for now. Given that adjustability you could go bigger. Here's a little theory from my MoFo (Mass Oxygen Flow Optimizer!) page: Modshack | Stage 2 MOFO (BAMM)

Good info there, thanks :)

Got my damaged bumper back from the body shop...I think the front air feed idea is going to work out great. Need to Powdercoat the flanges black and mount to my new bumper when I get the car back next week...Stay tuned. I'll do up a DIY when this is done..
http://images35.fotki.com/v1172/phot...MG_1809-vi.jpg

http://images31.fotki.com/v1039/phot...MG_1810-vi.jpg

Looks like it should fit quite well.

Modshack,

Would the idea be to finish fabricating and then develope a kit to sell to forum members (assuming everything works out well)?

We'll see!

Any issue at all with hydrolock?

I'm sorry, but I don't understand the continuing concern about this. The Stillen filters mount a good 24 inches off the road and are protected on the bottom by the large aluminum impact bar and a big hunk of stryrofoam. This is not at all like some of the 350 intakes where the filter hung down low in the grill and was susceptible to water ingestion. Unless you make it a habit of driving through 24" puddles I think this should be of no concern.. Even if you were to stuff the car into a 1 foot puddle and water caught on the lip, most would be directed at and through the radiator. The front side of the Stillens are so protected from even this splashing that you'll still pull air (no hydrolock)

Just wondering, with this intake, and say a Stillen high-flow Cat and a cat-back setup...what kind of numbers would that put up?

forged performance says with the full set up it should put 310 to the wheel

What is stock at the wheel?

i think its like 258 or something

Depends on the dyno. 258 is about right for a Dyno Dynamics or Mustang Dyno.

New test of the Stillen G3:

Stillen?s Gen 3 Nissan 370Z Air Intake, Tested! > MotoIQ > Magazine Articles