Ok so removing the stock cat...

shadowchemos · 03-08-2018, 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by madwi

Take the intakes off and go at it from the front of the car. Use lots of extensions mentioned in this thread. 1/2" equipment. PBblast the snot out of them.

Not sure what taking the intakes off again will do because I got the bolts off that were accessible from under the intakes. Going to a friends house after work tomorrow and we are gonna get it up higher and try an impact and see what happens. Worst case, gonna cut them off. What size bolt should I get to use on the new test pipes I'm mounting? I haven't measured when the car was up and I wanna come to his house ready with the bolts in hand so if we get the cats off I can put on the test pipes and roll out.

Thanks!

OhioYJ · 03-09-2018, 06:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadowchemos

Not sure what taking the intakes off again will do because I got the bolts off that were accessible from under the intakes. Going to a friends house after work tomorrow and we are gonna get it up higher and try an impact and see what happens. Worst case, gonna cut them off. What size bolt should I get to use on the new test pipes I'm mounting? I haven't measured when the car was up and I wanna come to his house ready with the bolts in hand so if we get the cats off I can put on the test pipes and roll out.

Thanks!

That's probably meant for people who have the stock intake boxes. They would be more intrusive. I have the Stillen Gen3, and everything stayed in place.

As for bolt size I don't remember, I got a hardware kit from Fast Intentions when I put my Berks HFCs in. I would just measure the holes in the test pipes and get bolts / nuts roughly that size. Get a nice flanged bolt (serrated would be nice too to lock it in place) / nut if you can, if not use a washers. The flange on the header is roughly the size that will be on the test pipe.

OhioYJ · 03-08-2018, 06:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by halogodx

What do you mean if the bolts break ?, cant you just hammer out the stud if you break the bolt ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by _ace_

I haven't done it, but why can't you drill the stupid things out?

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadowchemos

Last thing is, if I break or cut the head of the bolt I am totally ****** right? Since these retarded bolts have threads they wouldn't just fall out??

Honestly I would hope for them to break. The cats are the threaded part, not the header. So if you break the head of the bolt off, or it breaks in the middle anywhere, it's free of header, and the cat comes down. Yes the you have a bolt stuck in the cat, but it's not stuck in the header. These aren't studs.

As already mentioned the best strategy is to get enough 1/2" extension to make it all the way out to the front of the car. I didn't have enough and only had one 3/8" extension in the mix, and it was a bear. After this project I went out and bought more 1/2" extensions.

My car only had 5000 miles on it, and it was pain, those two bolts were definitely tighter than the rest and were very rusty, where the bottom two weren't for some reason?

shadowchemos · 03-10-2018, 03:43 AM

Bit of an update, used an air impact for the two bolts under the car. Then we used a regular wrench and socket with a pipe from a jack on the end and got the other two. The cat to Y-pipe we had to cut off with a grinder.

It all went together well and it sounds great. Thanks for the help guys!

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03-10-2018, 03:43 AM	#4 (permalink)
shadowchemos Base Member Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Lake Zurich illinois Posts: 10 Drives: 2011 370Z Nismo Rep Power: 10	Bit of an update, used an air impact for the two bolts under the car. Then we used a regular wrench and socket with a pipe from a jack on the end and got the other two. The cat to Y-pipe we had to cut off with a grinder. It all went together well and it sounds great. Thanks for the help guys!