Yup, I referred to this post somewhere back on page 4 before god knows what happened and we veered off into brake ducting and 5.0 hatred. :rofl2:

Iat's are somewhat separate from straight tube temps.


The heat conductivity of the plastic is very low, although the plastic is somewhat thin so you see some heat transfer.

With the stagnant air in front of the inlet, though, you see a huge iat spike when sitting. You can alleviate this a little with ducting, but for the most part it is unavoidable.

lol, yea i kept jumping on and off the thread. at one point i thought i went into the wrong one by accident:confused:

no no, this was just a pop the hood and sort of feel around where I could feel the most heat... the passenger airbox most definitely gets hot with that radiator hose close/under it though... the drivers side was surprisingly much cooler, but like I said, this was most roads being 40-45 mph with little engine load. I did get on it on the highway a bit, but this is only about a mile stretch both ways and then it was back to another 10 minutes of the lower speeds. For being only 60 degrees and very windy, it was warm... on a 90 degree day with heavy engine load I can only imagine.

this is interesting... but from someone who has only 60 posts and i'm not sure how accurate his set-up is... I would still like to get more measurements.

That corroborates with what I've seen logged via Osirus uprev. 60 posts here doesn't mean he doesn't know about cars -- sounds like he has good datalogging devices on hand :)

You may be able to bring IAT's down some with additional shielding, but in practical terms the major benefit would be seen staging at the drag strip rather than on the road.

That said, if you are curious and want to tinker, the easiest solution might be to pick up a good OBDII datalogger cable that can be used with software on a PDA (e.g., the auterra) so that you can datalog changes in airtemps and get good estimates of mean temps with and without extra shielding over a range of circumstances.

lol oh hell no... i'm not running anymore wires or laptops or any of that crap in my car... i'd rather just shield everything and know it's ... well just cooler lol.

not gonna happen, no money in the Budget, only way is if we can find a way to trim some money somewhere else to offset the cost of the beer and travel expenses.

jordo...i guess we are a dying breed....

i've actually seen better temp reading results from road usage than track usage. by the time you're off, the brake have cooled enough that a good reading is more difficult to get.

You are right, the Z never saw the track. I saw catastrophic fuel starvation in a 40mph turn autocrossing it. Engine shut down, car would not start for 24hrs. Didn't really feel any desire to put it on the track after that.

As to your second comment, no worries on that. I don't feel any need to compare my car to the z. I chose to make a switch for my own personal reasons, and I don't need to prove why to anyone here.

Pro Tip: Keep more than a 1/4 tank of gas in the car.

1: no one tracks with a full tank
2: about 5/8ths full when it happened

quote from AK


Keep gas in your car. :bowrofl:

Sometimes you don't want to run a heavy fuel load, though. Especially if you are just doing a ~60 second competitive autocross run.

Though given the circumstances you kind of have to, but we are getting close to a fuel starve solution from what I have read. Currently in testing but so far it has had positive results.

several members here have had fuel starve at 9/10ths full when using r comps at the track. There is a definite flaw in nissan's gas tank design for this car.

On street tires, I think fuel starve can happen as early as 7/10ths if you push hard enough on the "right" (or wrong depending on how you look at it) track.


if you track this car, you MUST top off the tank between sessions. Very annoying.

PS--come on Phunk, get that damn fuel tank fix out dammit. :excited: