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Berk Test Pipe install...*^$#ing factory bolts!!!
I just finished my estimated 45min test pipe install. Both right and left sides on the catalytic converter had some bolts that Nissan put on with a kick. It ended up taking me four freakin hours. The two bolts were both the very top forward part of the cats, outboard side. Did Nissan do this intentionally? Both destroyed themselves on the way out and one I stripped.
Fair warning!....If you go through the top part of the engine bay with a ton of extensions you can get to these bolts....DONT USE A 12 SIDE SOCKET! I learned with the first one and went with a 8 side impact socket on the second. You will need every last amount of torque you can get. I got the second bolt loosened no problem but it had destroyed itself to the point that it was just turning. Getting the sucker out required on person pulling on the cat while I hit the bolt with an impact gun. Please, don't go through what I went through today!! |
I tackled the passenger side top header to cat bolt first and snapped the stud clean off with my breaker bar and impact extensions. However, I found that first trying to tighten the driver's side bolt and then going to loosen and remove it made it so much easier to remove the bolt and the stud remained intact. It took me a good 4 hours as well on the floor in my garage but it is do-able!
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The Demon Bolts Claim another Victim.
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I'm going to be undertaking this project in a few weeks. Is tightening first then trying to remove the best way to get these bolts off?
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^That doesn't sound like a bad idea, I forgot to add...use some penitrant oil. Once those things break loose it's not over.
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I'm going to attempt to install my HFCs Friday. My hands are still torn up from installing the G3 intakes. I'm NOT looking forward to this...
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I just tried putting on my HFC, and even with my buddy's full lift, 4 hours, and an unlimited assortment of tools I just had to resort to taking it to the dealer to have them do it for about $300. It was an awful experience...
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Wow, you all are seriously making me reconsider the HFC route. I refuse to take it to the dealership.
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Anyone who is doubting installing HFCs themselves; just get a good breaker bar and extensions and you will be fine. I did them on the garage floor and I had limited mechanical experience on this car. Just commit yourself and you will find it is not as hard as some make it out to be. |
Tricks of the trade.
-Use a good impact socket. -Use 1/2" extensions for better torque on the bolt. The 3/8" extensions twist way too much. I've also snapped several 3/8" U-joints. -start off with the two hardest bolts, if you fail there then stop and take it to a pro. If you succeed the rest of the install will be cake! |
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Thank you for the advice guys. I've done headers, HFC, exhaust installs on many cars before but you all had me pretty intimidated by the "demon bolt" issue. I'm back on board. I should be ordering my HFCs early September.
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one guy a while back made a suggestion to hit it with some PB catalyst daily for about a week to give it time to really work itself in there, after a week, he said it came off pretty easily, give that a shot before you attempt to get it off, maybe it'll help.
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Another trick is to use some penetrating spray and then run the car for a few minutes to let the bolts and studs expand. This will also make remove just a little bit easier. Also; you do not have to remove anything from the intake on the passenger's side but you will have to at least disconnect the driver's side intake from the throttle body to gain enough room to access that header to cat bolt.
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