Berk Test Pipe install...*^$#ing factory bolts!!!
 

I just finished my estimated 45min test pipe install. Both right and left sides on the catalytic converter had some bolts that Nissan put on with a kick. It ended up taking me four freakin hours. The two bolts were both the very top forward part of the cats, outboard side. Did Nissan do this intentionally? Both destroyed themselves on the way out and one I stripped.

Fair warning!....If you go through the top part of the engine bay with a ton of extensions you can get to these bolts....DONT USE A 12 SIDE SOCKET! I learned with the first one and went with a 8 side impact socket on the second. You will need every last amount of torque you can get. I got the second bolt loosened no problem but it had destroyed itself to the point that it was just turning. Getting the sucker out required on person pulling on the cat while I hit the bolt with an impact gun.

Please, don't go through what I went through today!!

I tackled the passenger side top header to cat bolt first and snapped the stud clean off with my breaker bar and impact extensions. However, I found that first trying to tighten the driver's side bolt and then going to loosen and remove it made it so much easier to remove the bolt and the stud remained intact. It took me a good 4 hours as well on the floor in my garage but it is do-able!

The Demon Bolts Claim another Victim.

I'm going to be undertaking this project in a few weeks. Is tightening first then trying to remove the best way to get these bolts off?

^That doesn't sound like a bad idea, I forgot to add...use some penitrant oil. Once those things break loose it's not over.

I'm going to attempt to install my HFCs Friday. My hands are still torn up from installing the G3 intakes. I'm NOT looking forward to this...

I just tried putting on my HFC, and even with my buddy's full lift, 4 hours, and an unlimited assortment of tools I just had to resort to taking it to the dealer to have them do it for about $300. It was an awful experience...

lol.. friends and I managed to get them out... but spent approx 1hr just on the bolt itself

Wow, you all are seriously making me reconsider the HFC route. I refuse to take it to the dealership.

Yes. I found that helped break the bolts loose so much easier but the hard part is that they are mechanical locking nuts so once you get them loose initially, they will stop again after a turn or two which is when you could snap them.

Anyone who is doubting installing HFCs themselves; just get a good breaker bar and extensions and you will be fine. I did them on the garage floor and I had limited mechanical experience on this car. Just commit yourself and you will find it is not as hard as some make it out to be.

Tricks of the trade.

-Use a good impact socket.
-Use 1/2" extensions for better torque on the bolt. The 3/8" extensions twist way too much. I've also snapped several 3/8" U-joints.
-start off with the two hardest bolts, if you fail there then stop and take it to a pro. If you succeed the rest of the install will be cake!

yup def the best helpful hint out there. start at the hardest place and work backwards.. also just be patient and if something goes wrong step back get something to drink, think about it and then try it again. Im the most inpatient person in the world, being a mechanic def helped me calm down. thankfuly im not in it anymore and moved on to a "better" career but patients is key in working on anything.

Thank you for the advice guys. I've done headers, HFC, exhaust installs on many cars before but you all had me pretty intimidated by the "demon bolt" issue. I'm back on board. I should be ordering my HFCs early September.

one guy a while back made a suggestion to hit it with some PB catalyst daily for about a week to give it time to really work itself in there, after a week, he said it came off pretty easily, give that a shot before you attempt to get it off, maybe it'll help.

Another trick is to use some penetrating spray and then run the car for a few minutes to let the bolts and studs expand. This will also make remove just a little bit easier. Also; you do not have to remove anything from the intake on the passenger's side but you will have to at least disconnect the driver's side intake from the throttle body to gain enough room to access that header to cat bolt.

I wouldn't either.

Great idea! Might think of that one down the road.

This raspy sound comming out of the car with just the test pipes on are KILLING ME! I hate it, I need to get my Stilllen CBE ordered soon!

There's your problem with the rasp :icon18:

Good luck :tup:

Just letting you all know I sprayed some lubricant made to brake bolts lose...and all 6 bolts came off with ease! Not a single bolt or nut was harmed in the process! Now I just have to wait for my gaskets to get here since the guy I bought them from on the forum didn't inform me he wasn't including them :( open headers is wayyyyy too loud!

You are one lucky dog! Mine was horrific as well. I am keeping the demon bolt as a keep sake. lol

mjohn617,

Your going to love the Stillen CBE,sound!

let's us know how they sound and you like them when your all done!

Thanks,
Alex

Hey Alex,

I just got done installing my Berk HFC's. I did not have any issues with the demon bolt either. I recommend you use "liquid wrench penetrating oil" to get them off with ease. I am happy with them so far. I will like them even more once I get my Berk CBE installed :)

Just posted this on the Berk's tread!

Congratulations on your install and defeating the dreaded “Demon” bolts! :tiphat:
Should sound great with your Berk's CBE! :happydance:

I think you picked one of the very best HFC ,IMO . I like the fact that the Berk’s are 300, they have o2 extenders and support for the brace, made in the USA ,
also the feedback from users concerning o2 CEL issues has been every minimal, that’s why I’m also going with Berk’s.

Good luck with it!

Alex

P.S. Any sound clips in the works?

HAHA! I replied to my Berk thread. See you there :hello:

don't try to loosen them while the engine is cold! break them loose while the engine is hot. whatever corrosion that has fused the fasteners together will be soft from the heat and act as a lube.

I tried to use that method but it was no luck. I had to remove my Injen CAI to have more room for my ratchet . I did mine cold with lots of penatrating lube. No broken bolts what so ever :happydance:

I think mine was the worst case recorded in history. lol I had to cut the driver side cat in half and pry the remaining end off then use an air chisel to break the demon bolt.

Yes it sucked but I won. Me 1 Z 0. ;)

Geez man.

WOW! I think you got your figures wrong after that battle. The Z defiantly took that point! HAHA! :bowrofl:

Um no, it was a bloody battle but in the end I have HFC's on the car. :ughdance:

My car was cold and I left the lubricant on the bolts for a good 2 hours before trying to break them off.

:iagree: me too!

At the cost of a $700ish cat, I'd say the car took at least one point. :icon18:

Kroil works some magic with seized up fasteners.

Well I never really thought I could sell them for anywhere that much, the best I was planning on doing is either keeping them or scrapping them for some ca$h at a metal recycle yard. ($80 for the set) which I just plan on doing that since one is toast. All they want is the precious metals in the cat anyway...) :eekdance:

Definitally will do, I saw a clip on YouTube with same setup and the sound is unbelievable. I love that American throat, small block sound, this exhaust has a small hint of that. The exhaust notes that come out on decal are crazy! Stillen takes the win in my book.


The test pipes really opened up the bottom end, my wife even came home asking what I did to the car. I'm really curious to see what a dyno would show. Plus I'm getting 23MPG.

I made it halfway through the installled getting the passender side installed but ended up letting a shop do the drivers side for me. I decided to stop while I was ahead and not distroy the drivers side "b*tch bolt" during my attempt. I noticed a bit of a rattle or leak though when the engine is reved, anyone else experience this? I'm planning on checking the gaskets over when I get time.

I would definitely check for leaks if you have not already. But if you hear a hiss after acceleration it is normal with these cats for some reason. Good luck :tup:

Removal of the cats on our Z isn't for the faint of heart. It took me about two hours (including jacking it up and down), You have to work slowly, make sure you use a nice penetrant (3m), and have lots of extensions. I used 3/8 and they worked fine. Yes, never use 12 point sockets on something so stubborn, you will strip it. You do NOT need an impact gun for this, probably best you don't use one at all on the exhuast.

I feel bad for those that destroyed their cats trying to get them off, what a nightmare. Hope you never need your cats back on.

It was a nightmare as at one point I was like screw it. I was about ready to put it all back together and limp it to the nearest Midas. But I was running out of time and this was this only alternative. I was going to win damn it!!! I had stripped out the nut so there was no turning back. Stock cats are not going back, ever. :)

This thread is full of win, lol. Except for you TJ, I have to give the point to the car, man.