Jordo!'s Intake Project

Jordo! · 10-08-2010, 05:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zsteve

You might be looking at some turbulent air by using a cone filter inside a square box. It looks like air will come in and flow around the cone filter too and cause some turbulance going into the filter. I dont know if that will matter much but maybe using a square filter is still best. What I would like to see see is how much air does the engine require at WOT? And how much air does said filter flow. Using my Cobb tuner deivice I got a reading of 400+G/S on my K&N drop ins. They flow more than that so Im thinking the engine is getting all it asks for.

Hmm. I hadn't thought of that.

Well, it all remains to seen whether or not this makes more power... however, if the stillen short rams made decent gains (over K&N panel filters?) then so should this -- it's essentially the same design.

Whatever the results, I'll share all the details.

Zsteve · 10-08-2010, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordo!

Hmm. I hadn't thought of that.

Well, it all remains to seen whether or not this makes more power... however, if the stillen short rams made decent gains (over K&N panel filters?) then so should this -- it's essentially the same design.

Whatever the results, I'll share all the details.

sounds good, maybe you can think of a way to funnel the air to the intakes and not let it flow around the back end of them.

Jordo! · 10-09-2010, 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zsteve

sounds good, maybe you can think of a way to funnel the air to the intakes and not let it flow around the back end of them.

Is that the problem? I suppose I can just cut it down or build something that is more funnel shaped to form the back.

Hmmm. maybe will not install these just yet -- dang.

370Zsteve · 11-06-2010, 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zsteve

You might be looking at some turbulent air by using a cone filter inside a square box. It looks like air will come in and flow around the cone filter too and cause some turbulance going into the filter. I dont know if that will matter much but maybe using a square filter is still best. What I would like to see see is how much air does the engine require at WOT? And how much air does said filter flow. Using my Cobb tuner deivice I got a reading of 400+G/S on my K&N drop ins. They flow more than that so Im thinking the engine is getting all it asks for.

I was thinking the same thing. I'd go with square K&N's. Things are looking good, Jordo! Have you contacted Modshack, he might be able to give you some good ideas.

Also, Cobb no longer makes the intake tubes.

Azroadster · 11-06-2010, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 370Zsteve

I was thinking the same thing. I'd go with square K&N's. Things are looking good, Jordo! Have you contacted Modshack, he might be able to give you some good ideas.

Also, Cobb no longer makes the intake tubes.

You can get the HPS post MAF tubes from Corsport.

AZ

Jordo! · 11-06-2010, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 370Zsteve

I was thinking the same thing. I'd go with square K&N's. Things are looking good, Jordo! Have you contacted Modshack, he might be able to give you some good ideas.

Also, Cobb no longer makes the intake tubes.

I originally wanted to just buy a set from him, but I don't think he was selling... might try asking again rather than re-inventing the wheel.

Yep -- Zsteve was clearly 100% correct, as confirmed by the dyno.

I ordered the HPS intake tubes from evasive motorsports -- $117 shipped

Zsteve · 11-06-2010, 04:06 PM

but hey, atleast you are trying different things and posting for all of us to see, props.

GZ3 · 10-07-2010, 02:56 PM

I highly recommend the HPS intake pipes, i got these to smooth out airflow over the corrogurated stock tubes. 110Shipped! also you said these k&n come with a velocity stack? is there anyway you can snap a pic?? thanks man, no wories if your to busy

XwChriswX · 10-07-2010, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordo!

I think some sort of reducer couper or rubber boot that is 6.5" to 4.5" would be perfect --anyone know where I can find something like that with those dimensions? (see example below)

I'd say your best bet for finding something like this would be in the plumbing section of most hardware stores... They will either have it, or know who you could talk to to get one...

Jordo! · 10-07-2010, 03:18 PM

I already rebuilt the back of the airbox using small plastic boxes (although one or both may need to be cut down to fit...).

Notwithstanding the possiblity of having to modify the backs a bit, I'm hoping to have these installed for testing this weekend, with dynos sometime next week.

The velocity stacks are molded into the inside of the filter flange, so it's kind of hard to get a clear picture... bascially, it's just a nice smooth transition from the inside of the flange to the inside of the filter.

Between that and the open top (note it isn't sealed, but has a section of filter), these X-flow filters are pretty awesome!

Should pick up some power over the panel filters, but I'll let the dyno decide if this was worth all the trouble or not...

Jordo! · 11-05-2010, 02:33 PM

Okay -- the rear box idea did not fit...

So I went with cannister type shileding. Still managed to get the OEM airbox to fit, providing additional shielding, use of the OEM cool air ducting, and the OEM mounting points.

Looks pretty stock without careful scrutiny. Will be dyno testing either today or early next week to see if this was all for naught...

LightsOut · 11-05-2010, 04:38 PM

in for dyno numbers

Jordo! · 11-05-2010, 05:51 PM

Failure! Lost power everywhere!

Oh well... back to factory airboxes for now. Might try replacing the post MAF hoses and/or different ducting instead of reusing the factory airboxes.

Sigh.

EDIT: Yeah, just ordered HPS hoses. I'll try that next. Dynos to follow...

6spd · 11-05-2010, 10:16 PM

in for dyno results of the tubes, im damn near pressing the order button on a set!

Rooskey · 11-06-2010, 12:44 AM

If you never try you will never know. Good to see someone thinking outside the box!

11-06-2010, 04:06 PM	#7 (permalink)
Zsteve A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: TX Posts: 3,298 Drives: the 2 balled club Rep Power: 23	but hey, atleast you are trying different things and posting for all of us to see, props. __________________ 2010 LS3 C6 Silver coupe corvette

10-07-2010, 02:56 PM	#8 (permalink)
GZ3 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: SATX Posts: 3,296 Drives: Z Rep Power: 23	I highly recommend the HPS intake pipes, i got these to smooth out airflow over the corrogurated stock tubes. 110Shipped! also you said these k&n come with a velocity stack? is there anyway you can snap a pic?? thanks man, no wories if your to busy __________________ 09 GT-R 12' 370Z 7AT HANDED DOWN 12'+13' 5.0 SOLD

10-07-2010, 03:18 PM	#10 (permalink)
Jordo! A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Location: nirvana Posts: 6,394 Drives: 2023 NATM Rep Power: 420	I already rebuilt the back of the airbox using small plastic boxes (although one or both may need to be cut down to fit...). Notwithstanding the possiblity of having to modify the backs a bit, I'm hoping to have these installed for testing this weekend, with dynos sometime next week. The velocity stacks are molded into the inside of the filter flange, so it's kind of hard to get a clear picture... bascially, it's just a nice smooth transition from the inside of the flange to the inside of the filter. Between that and the open top (note it isn't sealed, but has a section of filter), these X-flow filters are pretty awesome! Should pick up some power over the panel filters, but I'll let the dyno decide if this was worth all the trouble or not... __________________ Enjoy it. Destroy it. Last edited by Jordo!; 10-07-2010 at 03:22 PM.

11-05-2010, 02:33 PM	#11 (permalink)
Jordo! A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Location: nirvana Posts: 6,394 Drives: 2023 NATM Rep Power: 420	Okay -- the rear box idea did not fit... So I went with cannister type shileding. Still managed to get the OEM airbox to fit, providing additional shielding, use of the OEM cool air ducting, and the OEM mounting points. Looks pretty stock without careful scrutiny. Will be dyno testing either today or early next week to see if this was all for naught... __________________ Enjoy it. Destroy it.

11-05-2010, 05:51 PM	#13 (permalink)
Jordo! A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Location: nirvana Posts: 6,394 Drives: 2023 NATM Rep Power: 420	Failure! Lost power everywhere! Oh well... back to factory airboxes for now. Might try replacing the post MAF hoses and/or different ducting instead of reusing the factory airboxes. Sigh. EDIT: Yeah, just ordered HPS hoses. I'll try that next. Dynos to follow... __________________ Enjoy it. Destroy it. Last edited by Jordo!; 11-05-2010 at 06:10 PM.

11-05-2010, 04:38 PM	#12 (permalink)
LightsOut Base Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: 323-909 Posts: 68 Drives: Low n Aggressive 4Dr Rep Power: 16	in for dyno numbers

11-05-2010, 10:16 PM	#14 (permalink)
6spd A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: South Florida Posts: 3,001 Drives: Q50RS Rep Power: 26	in for dyno results of the tubes, im damn near pressing the order button on a set! __________________ -Jay- jonathanjamesphotographer.com

11-06-2010, 12:44 AM	#15 (permalink)
Rooskey Track Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: South Carolina Posts: 974 Drives: 2014 Alpha7 GTR Rep Power: 17	If you never try you will never know. Good to see someone thinking outside the box!

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