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Originally Posted by XwChriswX When it comes to dyno's, can you explain why they are done in the manner they are, neither in the lowest or the highest gear, and
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My understanding (and it could be wrong) is that you want to get as close to 1:1 for the TQ & HP readings to be truly 'real world' numbers. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than me will be able to provide a better/more accurate explanation.
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#2 (permalink) |
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WFLYIDNNE
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Where are you doing your runs at? Have you gone to any particular shops over there? Being in Chandler you must know of INTENSEMotorsports right? Those guys are awesome!
I wish there were more shops over here on the west side.
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Bonnie - Stage 2, Audio build coming this fall! R.I.P. Abby 3/29/10 - 3/30/14 |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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On the west side of what ? If you're talking about the west coast then you're crazy because there are a TON of badass shops there. Also if you're talking about AZ then there are still plenty there. They may not be Z only shops but there have been a few shops in AZ featured/mentioned in magazines such as Modified. |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Yes - know about Intense Motorsports' rep. As far as what I'm going for with this car - keeping the wife happy since it's her daily ride. If it was mine I would be going all out (TT kit, hardened tranny, etc) and going to SpeedWorld and Firebird to challenge my old Turbo Regal buddies.
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#5 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Someone else could probably explain better, but I'll give it a shot. The purpose of a dyno is to measure power output. Now, the 'cleanest' way to do that is to take the engine out of the car and mount it to an engine dyno. But that's not exactly practical, right? So most people just dyno at the wheels. Not only is it a tad more convenient than taking your engine out, but you're also measuring how much power you're putting to the ground, which many would argue is what counts anyway. So, that being said, you want to get a reading from the wheels while in a gear that provides a 1:1 ratio, because a gear ratio of 1:1 means that the engine and the transmission’s output are moving at the same speed. You want the engine and transmission to be in synch in order to get an accurate reading. Does this make sense at all? Like I said, I'm sure someone else can do a better job of explaining this.
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#6 (permalink) | |
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WFLYIDNNE
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I understand the reason behind a dyno and what it does for you, what I'm asking is why do they pick 1 particular gear (obviously now for the 1:1 ratio thanks semtex! ) But I mean, does that give you the best Total output? I'm just wondering for 'Practical' output... Say just like you would on a 1/4 mile, do a dyno thats actually going up through the gears just like you would in a race... Or would that be just completely retarded?
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Bonnie - Stage 2, Audio build coming this fall! R.I.P. Abby 3/29/10 - 3/30/14 |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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"There are no small accidents on this circuit." -- Ayrton Senna 316.8whp & 248 ft/lbs (Dyno Dynamics) | 319whp & 256 ft/lbs (DynoJet) (04/23/10) Stillen G3 CAI, CBE, Pulley / F.I. LTH / GTSpec Ladder Brace / Setrab Oil Cooler / UpRev-tuned by Forged Perf. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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He was also really surprised at what the motor put out in 4th. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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WFLYIDNNE
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Oh shit?! I just realized yours is a 7AT also?!
AND your in Chandler! What's up! lol Wow, those numbers hit closer to home now... Do you have any specific goal your trying to reach, or just as high as you can?
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Bonnie - Stage 2, Audio build coming this fall! R.I.P. Abby 3/29/10 - 3/30/14 |
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#10 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Yeah the measurement is just in a single gear. You've seen my dyno vids, right? If you watch closely, you can see them run up through to 5th gear quickly, then they just hold it there for a sec at like 2500 rpm while they hit the start button on the measurement software, then they floor it all the way to redline and then they're done.
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"There are no small accidents on this circuit." -- Ayrton Senna 316.8whp & 248 ft/lbs (Dyno Dynamics) | 319whp & 256 ft/lbs (DynoJet) (04/23/10) Stillen G3 CAI, CBE, Pulley / F.I. LTH / GTSpec Ladder Brace / Setrab Oil Cooler / UpRev-tuned by Forged Perf. |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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WFLYIDNNE
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How much +/- will a run set you back? Say if I wanna do 3 for a good average to use as my baseline?
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Bonnie - Stage 2, Audio build coming this fall! R.I.P. Abby 3/29/10 - 3/30/14 |
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#12 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Depends on the shop. Anywhere from $70-$100 is the norm. And 3 pulls is also standard.
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"There are no small accidents on this circuit." -- Ayrton Senna 316.8whp & 248 ft/lbs (Dyno Dynamics) | 319whp & 256 ft/lbs (DynoJet) (04/23/10) Stillen G3 CAI, CBE, Pulley / F.I. LTH / GTSpec Ladder Brace / Setrab Oil Cooler / UpRev-tuned by Forged Perf. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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3 runs with no tuning at a shop around here is like $65. I think it allocates you like an hour and 1 technician. You can do minor things to your car in between, but that's it.
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![]() 2009 NISMO # 0193 | QAB | Albums! | 05.04.10 (Dynojet) 291.94hp/248.28tq Oil Cooler (DIY) | Custom Headlights | GTSPEC Braces | F.I. Long Tube Headers |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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WFLYIDNNE
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Quote:
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Bonnie - Stage 2, Audio build coming this fall! R.I.P. Abby 3/29/10 - 3/30/14 |
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#15 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Just called another shop who has a 4WD dyno and they charge $75 for 3 runs regardless of 2WD/4WD.
EDIT: hahaha just called Jotech and they said $85 or $100 with wideband
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![]() 2009 NISMO # 0193 | QAB | Albums! | 05.04.10 (Dynojet) 291.94hp/248.28tq Oil Cooler (DIY) | Custom Headlights | GTSPEC Braces | F.I. Long Tube Headers Last edited by vipor; 04-08-2010 at 02:01 PM. |
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