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Fast Intentions exhaust and header comparison. Before and after UPRev tune (Dyno)

Originally Posted by XwChriswX When it comes to dyno's, can you explain why they are done in the manner they are, neither in the lowest or the highest gear, and

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Old 04-08-2010, 01:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
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When it comes to dyno's, can you explain why they are done in the manner they are, neither in the lowest or the highest gear, and why you dont step up through the gears? I never completely understood that...
My understanding (and it could be wrong) is that you want to get as close to 1:1 for the TQ & HP readings to be truly 'real world' numbers. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than me will be able to provide a better/more accurate explanation.
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Old 04-08-2010, 01:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Where are you doing your runs at? Have you gone to any particular shops over there? Being in Chandler you must know of INTENSEMotorsports right? Those guys are awesome!

I wish there were more shops over here on the west side.
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Old 04-08-2010, 01:09 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Where are you doing your runs at? Have you gone to any particular shops over there? Being in Chandler you must know of INTENSEMotorsports right? Those guys are awesome!

I wish there were more shops over here on the west side.


On the west side of what ? If you're talking about the west coast then you're crazy because there are a TON of badass shops there. Also if you're talking about AZ then there are still plenty there. They may not be Z only shops but there have been a few shops in AZ featured/mentioned in magazines such as Modified.
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Old 04-08-2010, 01:39 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Where are you doing your runs at? Have you gone to any particular shops over there? Being in Chandler you must know of INTENSEMotorsports right? Those guys are awesome!

I wish there were more shops over here on the west side.
Runs were done in Tempe at (S)uperior (R)acing (D)evelopment with Xact Dyno (first listing on UpRev's Web site for Dealers/Tuners) which is in the same shop (separate business run by Tim).
Yes - know about Intense Motorsports' rep. The guys at SRD are good and not too pricey. Chet the owner is real straight up guy. SRD are also going to start distributing Tony's exhaust (and LTH's no doubt). They sold one to another customer after they saw the quality and heard mine.
As far as what I'm going for with this car - keeping the wife happy since it's her daily ride. If it was mine I would be going all out (TT kit, hardened tranny, etc) and going to SpeedWorld and Firebird to challenge my old Turbo Regal buddies.
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Old 04-08-2010, 01:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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When it comes to dyno's, can you explain why they are done in the manner they are, neither in the lowest or the highest gear, and why you dont step up through the gears? I never completely understood that...
Someone else could probably explain better, but I'll give it a shot. The purpose of a dyno is to measure power output. Now, the 'cleanest' way to do that is to take the engine out of the car and mount it to an engine dyno. But that's not exactly practical, right? So most people just dyno at the wheels. Not only is it a tad more convenient than taking your engine out, but you're also measuring how much power you're putting to the ground, which many would argue is what counts anyway. So, that being said, you want to get a reading from the wheels while in a gear that provides a 1:1 ratio, because a gear ratio of 1:1 means that the engine and the transmission’s output are moving at the same speed. You want the engine and transmission to be in synch in order to get an accurate reading. Does this make sense at all? Like I said, I'm sure someone else can do a better job of explaining this.
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Old 04-08-2010, 01:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Someone else could probably explain better, but I'll give it a shot. The purpose of a dyno is to measure power output. Now, the 'cleanest' way to do that is to take the engine out of the car and mount it to an engine dyno. But that's not exactly practical, right? So most people just dyno at the wheels. Not only is it a tad more convenient than taking your engine out, but you're also measuring how much power you're putting to the ground, which many would argue is what counts anyway. So, that being said, you want to get a reading from the wheels while in a gear that provides a 1:1 ratio, because a gear ratio of 1:1 means that the engine and the transmission’s output are moving at the same speed. You want the engine and transmission to be in synch in order to get an accurate reading. Does this make sense at all? Like I said, I'm sure someone else can do a better job of explaining this.
LoL I must have made myself sound like a dumbass...

I understand the reason behind a dyno and what it does for you, what I'm asking is why do they pick 1 particular gear (obviously now for the 1:1 ratio thanks semtex! ) But I mean, does that give you the best Total output?

I'm just wondering for 'Practical' output... Say just like you would on a 1/4 mile, do a dyno thats actually going up through the gears just like you would in a race... Or would that be just completely retarded?
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Old 04-08-2010, 01:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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LoL I must have made myself sound like a dumbass...

I understand the reason behind a dyno and what it does for you, what I'm asking is why do they pick 1 particular gear (obviously now for the 1:1 ratio thanks semtex! ) But I mean, does that give you the best Total output?

I'm just wondering for 'Practical' output... Say just like you would on a 1/4 mile, do a dyno thats actually going up through the gears just like you would in a race... Or would that be just completely retarded?
If you went up through the gears I think you'd just end up with a separate chart for each gear. Because think about a dyno chart. On the x-axis it has the rpm scale. So you go through 1st gear and there's one graph showing your hp from 2k - 7500 rpm. You shift into 2nd and there's another graph showing hp from 2k - 7500 rpm. And so on and so on. On a 6MT, you'd end up with 6 dyno sheets. 7 for those with the 7AT. As for why they choose the gear with 1:1, I don't think it's so much that it gives you the best numbers, but more that it gives you the most accurate numbers, seeing how engine and transmission speed are in synch with one another.
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Old 04-08-2010, 12:56 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Hmm...those numbers seem a little low to me, considering (a) the mods you have, and (b) you used a hydraulic dyno, and those types of dynos are actually notorious for giving readings on the high side compared to normal roller-type dynos. It might have something to do with the pulls being done in 5th rather than 6th. I remember another member by the name of wstar went through the same issue. The problem, if I remember correctly, was that neither 5th nor 6th give a 1:1 gear ratio in the 7AT models. Never the less, you did get a nice gain, so congrats on that!
I must admit I was somewhat surprised also considering what Tony got on the LTH comparison runs from SpecialtyZ and also considering that the timing changes were kicked out by the ECM during the pulls with his customer. This tuner claimed that the timing changes (didn't reveal exactly what they were) he made were not kicked out. I asked him about the pulls in 5th and he said that 5th is closer to 1:1 than 6th or 7th which are essentially overdrive.
He was also really surprised at what the motor put out in 4th.
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Old 04-08-2010, 12:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Oh shit?! I just realized yours is a 7AT also?!

AND your in Chandler! What's up! lol

Wow, those numbers hit closer to home now... Do you have any specific goal your trying to reach, or just as high as you can?
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Old 04-08-2010, 01:36 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Yeah the measurement is just in a single gear. You've seen my dyno vids, right? If you watch closely, you can see them run up through to 5th gear quickly, then they just hold it there for a sec at like 2500 rpm while they hit the start button on the measurement software, then they floor it all the way to redline and then they're done.
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Old 04-08-2010, 01:40 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Yeah the measurement is just in a single gear. You've seen my dyno vids, right? If you watch closely, you can see them run up through to 5th gear quickly, then they just hold it there for a sec at like 2500 rpm while they hit the start button on the measurement software, then they floor it all the way to redline and then they're done.
I guess I just need to go to a dyno shop and have them see what my baselines are... And let them explain it to me as they do...

How much +/- will a run set you back? Say if I wanna do 3 for a good average to use as my baseline?
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Old 04-08-2010, 01:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I guess I just need to go to a dyno shop and have them see what my baselines are... And let them explain it to me as they do...

How much +/- will a run set you back? Say if I wanna do 3 for a good average to use as my baseline?
Depends on the shop. Anywhere from $70-$100 is the norm. And 3 pulls is also standard.
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Old 04-08-2010, 01:42 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I guess I just need to go to a dyno shop and have them see what my baselines are... And let them explain it to me as they do...

How much +/- will a run set you back? Say if I wanna do 3 for a good average to use as my baseline?
3 runs with no tuning at a shop around here is like $65. I think it allocates you like an hour and 1 technician. You can do minor things to your car in between, but that's it.
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Old 04-08-2010, 01:44 PM   #14 (permalink)
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3 runs with no tuning at a shop around here is like $65. I think it allocates you like an hour and 1 technician. You can do minor things to your car in between, but that's it.
Hmm, ok. That sounds reasonable right?
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Old 04-08-2010, 01:58 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Hmm, ok. That sounds reasonable right?
Just called another shop who has a 4WD dyno and they charge $75 for 3 runs regardless of 2WD/4WD.

EDIT: hahaha just called Jotech and they said $85 or $100 with wideband
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