Exhaust\Intake setup - needs some advise
 

Hello everybody,

I am having some hard time deciding on what to do, made some searches and still the same.

First, my car has Fast Intentions TDX 12" res and FI non-res HFC.

I am planning to add more boltons and tune the car afterward. I have R2C air intakes in hand but not installed. Also, have Mine's air scoops.

What I was decided on is
Fast Intentions TDX & HFC
R2C Intakes
Motordyne M370
Tune

But as people are greedy :rolleyes: I just thought of going a little different, I thought of going Z1 CAI, Z1 headers, and DE ART pipes.

My concerns are as follow

- Will R2C intakes + Air scoops have similar gains to CAI, I understand the issue with short rams is they take air from engine bay unlike CAI, but adding air scoop may solve the issue? because either way I will install the mine's but the placement will differ with either choice.

- Loudness, I like how loud the car currently, I don't want to increase this level marginally, when I was reading about Arts I found some mixed opinions about the sound level increase, however, the company and some opinions say it is quieter than any TP or HFC. If it is quieter than FI non-res HFC and I added shorties which shouldn't increase sound level that much, the result is same level of loudness :rofl2: this the conclusion I had, need somebody to chime in there, I know that I will gain a lot more HP/TQ over HFC setup. Or just add art pipes without headers?


The car isn't daily driver but I don't want to draw police attention when I take it on weekends, so let's say loudness under 3.5k rpm. Don't care if it's louder at WOT. I use the car on weekends and occasional road course track days.


or should I go all out with LTH and butterfly valves :p


Don't take me as I don't know what I want :D

Just to sum up,

Will R2C Intakes + air scoop be nearly the same as CAI + air scoop.

How different the loudness will be for Z1 headers + ART pipes and current catback compared to my current setup? Will the gains be noticeable?

How Motordyne IM complement the setup either way, or it will work better with one over the other?

I want to gain as much as possible NA while maintaining the same sound level while cruising. I would love to go turbo if it wasn't for track days.

Wow...since 2010? :wtf2:

LOOOL I had G35 sedan at the time, bought the 370 in 2014.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

go turbo

What about track days, will it be okay to go 15 minutes session without over heating in a climate of 30-40 Celsius. That is the thing keeping me away from turbo as much as I like the results with our engines.

is this a serious question ?

do you know how many turbo cars in the usa are tracked all day every weekend ?

A guy i know is selling a BP V2 turbo kit for $4,500

Don't get me wrong, I am not in the states, I am from the opposite part of the world. :rolleyes: I didn't find anybody successfully tracking his car here and we have very few garages that is good, leave alone being good with 370.

However, it wouldn't be a wrong idea to check other people cars, could you direct me to some? I made a lot of searches without success

The shipping will be the real pain :shakes head:

Just to clear some misunderstanding, I am not looking for some fancy horsepower being NA, I am looking for something between 320-340 peak whp and 260-280 peak wtq (I know it depends on the dyno) and I know some parts will give better gain than the other, I made a lot of research to reach the conclusion above, I even searched for turboing the car and many suggested to have major cooling mod to the car and a conservative tune, cooling will not be the big problem, tuner is! I cannot be guinea pig for anybody here, and Sebastian from specialty z didn't recommend do online tune for TT cars and track them.

Please consider that the wealth of tuners and part availability isn't the same over here :)

Then, I have sound level issue locally, police use their ears to gauge the loudness :shakes head: I read a lot about ART pipes being a tad quieter than non-res HFC and the torque it gives is unreal, my current setup is perfect as far as loudness, I thought if I could squeeze some more hp and tq while maintaining same sound level when I am cruising, it will be a win/win case. A tad louder will not be a problem. Anyway, I found used HR ART pipes which I plan to buy them and see for myself how loud it will be.


The big issue here in Qatar, there is few modded Zs and Gs available to check them personally before doing anything, and this is why I am asking here as it is a great community.



madeinjapan Maybe you don't like the fact that I DD a charger
:icon18::icon18:

OP, you need to look into getting a new radiator, and the biggest oil cooler you can find. That'll make more of a difference tracking over there than bolt ons will.



How many factory Fi cars, or boosted Zs? Because the vast majority of boosted Zs never see the track. Mainly because of the heat. Kinda like the OP was asking about. It's almost like you don't read the question, and then put up yet another useless post. Don't give technical advice. New members might not know you're the single dumbest human being on this forum and listen to you. At least stick to the stuff you know, like surviving abortion attempts and sucking **** for money.

Yes, most of the boosted zs here are street cars. Is this news? We know you're a complete moron, but even you should have been able to figure that out. Is it asking too much for you to actually read some threads and learn something, or are there too many shopping carts out in the parking lot that need to be brought back into the store and you just don't have the time?

Thanks Chuck for feedback, I nearly believed he was serious :icon17:

As far as mods, I have fast intentions 34 row oil cooler, Z1 SS brake and clutch line with RBF600, Project Mu B spec brake pads (which I tried them to see if I can get a dual use pads), whiteline swaybars with SPL endlinks, in addition to Fast intentions TDX and HFC and volks with michelins PSS.

I will have on order, Stillen brake ducts, Z1 sprinkle slotted rotors, later on I will buy Tein mono sport coilovers with active edfc and when the CSC dies I will install JWT clutch & flywheel combo with Zspeed CSC and new CMC.

As far as radiator, until now I see the OEM doing its job, maybe after going through all the previous I may need one. But I will see how it will holds before changing.


I got the exhaust because the car was quiet as sport car, and as I am going to tune, I want to have more boltons before going there. It's like I want to make a one time visit to the garage and tuner :)

Get an OBD scanner or water temp gauge, then. Switch to straight water and water wetter. Then see if the water temps are in line with what you should be seeing. The stock gauge isn't linear, and it's kinda hard to tell exactly how hot it's running. A vented hood would do wonders as well, especially since rain really isn't something you should be too worried about. Given your climate, if you plan on a lot of track time Z1's power steering cooler might need to be on your list as well.

At the end of the day, gears and a better diff would make you faster around the track than swapping out bolt ons.You can switch to TPs or headers, but you'll only pick up ~10whp over the HFCs you have and it's not a cheap move once you factor in labor.

a street car doesnt get hot either :wtf2:

Are you somehow claiming that the heat is similar between track and street cars? We know you're mentally challenged, but even you cannot be that stupid and still manage to use a computer.

no one drives turbo zs they just sit in the garage and at car shows

youre right

toooooooooooooooooooooooo hot to drive them

People drive them, but one of the reasons you don't see many of them on track is heat, you dumb son of a whore. I drive mine. My friends drive theirs. But we don't track them. Pretty much the only guy here with a turbo Z that tracks it a lot is djtodd.

Also, you realize the OP is in the Middle East, right? Where it is insanely hot all the time? Do they teach geography in special ed classes, or do you just color and build things with popsicle sticks?

Did you just use a picture of a V8 swapped Z with nitrous drifting to prove your point about turboed Zs on a track? Really?

OP, as much as I love the R2C intakes, the metal piping is just too much for this engine bay. I've had them for 4 years now and over 50K miles, and they heat soak the crap out of the engine. You may not encounter it too much on the track, but they will be hotter than alternatives like Z1 post-MAF tubes + stock intake boxes with aftermarket filters or the Z1 full CAI.

I wish there was a lot more data on IATs and engine bay temps in general when considered hood vents. I think I've decided Fujimura has the best hood/vent design for heat evacuation.

He should be an idiot to not know how a vq37 should sound.


Appreciate the informative replay, I will be looking in OBD scanners to get for sure, vented hood is something I was looking for, I checked if I can get a lightweight + vented hood but looks like I will be going on having vents on OEM hood.

Yeah labor cost is a consideration, but If I am going to spend, I want to make it in one go, however I found art pipes somehow locally, I will try to work it out and I will do the swap and sell my HFC, otherwise I will stick with what I got.

Coilovers, alignment kit, diff, gears would wait until I find the car limiting me.

Rains this year were more than what we used to but I drove the car just one time in rain (returning from track), climate isn't bad, but I don't want the car to limit me when it's quite hot. Mostly, it will be under 30 Celsius (86 F) because the season begins on September, but there is odd days where it could reach 40 C (104 F). This summer some claims it has been as high as 140 F :happydance:.


So, this decides it, either Z1 or Stillen CAI and position Mine's air scoops to blow air on them directly. Prefer them as dry filter is an option :)

as far as hood, yeah it is consideration, right, as we are already talking about track setups :icon17: will a vented fenders do their job?




Thanks a lot JARblue and Chuck for being informative :)

AEM and R2C make a dry filter for the stock air boxes :twocents: Although the R2C ones have been virtually impossible to find, I just recently heard there was a ship somewhere in the Atlantic with them on its way here.

I doubt vented fenders by themselves are sufficient for full on track brake cooling. Stillen makes a brake cooling kit you want. Although you'll need a Stillen or OEM non-Nismo front bumper to install it without modification. And the kit for the OEM bumper costs extra.

Who brought up drifting? OP was talking about track days.

street - drift - track - drag

no turbo z ever

tooooooooooo hot

:wtf2:

Yeah, I have the stock bumper and even with the additional cost it will stay cheaper than buying stillen bumper + their brake ducts :icon17: I may go with vented fenders later on

Don't forget good rotors when you're thinking about brake cooling. Two piece rotors run much cooler.

^^^ I agree

Of course, just waiting for Z1 sprinkle slotted to be in stock again (their site shows out of stock). They look great and one of my friends recommended them over the slotted version, just to stay away from any drilled rotors.

and leave the troll alone :rofl2:

Yep, all the holes do is show you where the cracks will start.

Lol this must be one of the biggest fails ever. Yup ls swap proves a turbo can track.

:happydance:

LOL this thread is awesome.

I guess to help the OP, I would go with what chuck said as far as making cooling a priority. I've never been to Qatar, but I imagine the heat is as bad, if not worse than Texas. An oil cooler is a must with any VQ37 in my opinion.

I'm running the stock radiator and haven't had any issues on track and dailying the car for nearly 90,000 miles. However, I'm running the Stillen bumper which has generous cooling.

To comment on the other hilarity in this thread, the reason most boosted Zs are not seen on track is because of the amount of supporting modifications needed to keep the car running healthy at extreme heat. High efficiency radiators, extra oil coolers, using E85, and modifying body panels are used to combat that issue. On top of that, running boost in a motor that is not designed for boost causes extra stress on the motor, so alot of guys will look into using a "built" motor to support the boost pressure. All of this can cost $$$$$, but if you build it right the first time, you will have less problems in the future.

At the end of the day it's your ride!

Thanks abm for the inputs

Yup, I understand the importance of cooling, I have FI 34 row oil cooler, better brake\clutch fluid with SS lines, also will upgrade brakes with two piece rotors and may go to more aggressive pads, I researched its main issues on track at first :)

As I have upgraded exhaust and I am going to tune, I want to sort my setup and I think I already know what I will go with :)

fixed? :tiphat:

Not at all, dumbass. Factory FI cars are designed to accomodate the heat and stress, while aftermarket FI cars have to be reengineered to handle it. Now go suck off a shotgun. To completion.

the reason most aftermarket boosted cars are not seen on track

:tiphat:

Good job. It only took you half a dozen posts to come to that conclusion. You've come a long way. Keep it up, and soon you'll be allowed outside without wearing a helmet. Small steps, Corky.