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possible automotive 340lph fuel pump problem help

Drive home from work today my car stalled in the middle of traffic pulled off the road and looked under the hood try ed to start the car no fuel

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Old 11-27-2014, 02:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default possible automotive 340lph fuel pump problem help

Drive home from work today my car stalled in the middle of traffic
pulled off the road and looked under the hood try ed to start the car no fuel pressure
noticed the fuse for my fuel pump was totally burnt up.
so just to get home I bypassed the fuse car started up drove home

I checked the wires from the battery to the ppump it's a short run
my wires were upgraded when I went from a walbro 255 to a automotive 340.

never noticed a problem before car ran fine. Why would the pump pull
That many amps. Could the pump be going bad ?

Also now my fuel level indicator stopped working full tank it shows
no bars.
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Old 11-27-2014, 07:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I would pull your fuel pump assembly out of the tank and inspect the molded in bulkhead wiring. Probably all melty and messed up the level sensor wires with it
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Old 11-28-2014, 11:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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OK I will check it. I did put a new fuse in and checked the wire for shorts and grounds
Wire and relay look good. Reseated the ground wire. Car is running find just no fuel level indication

So I will pull the pump and take a look at the wiring
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Old 12-25-2014, 04:39 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Ok I pulled my fuel pump. And this is what I found

.

Now I can see why my fuel level gauge was not working
Wired to my fuel pump burnt and wired to my fuel leveler were melted
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Last edited by Nissan370; 12-25-2014 at 04:43 PM.
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Old 12-25-2014, 04:47 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Also once I fix this and reinstall the pump is there a procedure to getting the car running
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Old 12-25-2014, 07:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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No just fix it and put it back in and you will be good to go.

If you need any wiring components let me know. I have fuel rated wires, heat shrink, terminals, fuel pump connectors, and even the OEM 5 pin plug and terminals that go on the top/outside... all in stock and rather inexpensive.

The spade terminals that connect the bottom wiring are very small and when I build a sending unit I will often soldier the spades to the pins to increase conductivity to reduce the hot-spots and melting.

Since the top plate is plastic, you could also put a couple small screws through it with sealing washers and use the screws as the fuel pump power/ground terminals. The screws will of course handle much more load without heating up than the small factory pins.
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Old 12-25-2014, 07:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Some good info there phunk. Rep for Ya.
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Old 12-25-2014, 08:44 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks man tapping the top hat with screws is a great idea

I small pin for the power was melted into the plastic part of the top hat.

I was going to use solder but I like your idea.
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Old 12-27-2014, 04:58 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks again Phuck. I ran separate larger gauge wires for the pump through the top hat and sealed it up. She's running like a champ again
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Old 12-27-2014, 05:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Nice,back to spoolin up and laying rubber!
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Old 12-29-2014, 09:35 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nissan370 View Post
Thanks again Phuck. I ran separate larger gauge wires for the pump through the top hat and sealed it up. She's running like a champ again
LOL glad to assist!
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Old 01-01-2015, 05:06 PM   #12 (permalink)
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haha he says phuck
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Old 01-01-2015, 05:07 PM   #13 (permalink)
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what was the cause?
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Old 01-01-2015, 05:13 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 09nismo498 View Post
what was the cause?
Based on the photos, it appears a combination of hot-spots in the wiring from the amperage the larger pump was pulling melted some of the wiring. The 2 crimps look like they got toasty, along with the connections where the spades meet the fuel tank flange terminals. Junction points in wiring are commonly the bottleneck if you are not careful to get an extra-fantastic amount of surface area contact.
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