A question for all with FI

Rid3_FaM0uS · 07-17-2014, 02:02 PM

I twined mine after 9 months of financing it. The car is still currently eating my wallet in more ways than one. But to answer your question I am FI and still paying for the car so I guess you can chalk me up on the "guilty" list

Chuy · 07-17-2014, 03:19 PM

I could of paid my baby girl off if I had not went FI

JWillis72 · 07-17-2014, 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuy

I could of paid my baby girl off if I had not went FI

Me too but she wouldn't be nearly as fun.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

TopgunZ · 07-17-2014, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ANMVQ

I did on my SC , an now have a loan on my sedan and looking at the FI kit, Motor pops you can get a build short block for under 3k that will take 650 WHP. only reason I'm thinking about it again after my other motor blowing :/

VQ37 Engine Short Block Packages - Nissan 370z/Infiniti G37 - Import Parts Pro

You will never get by with spending 3K for a built bottom end. You have to send yours in to get that $750 deposit returned. It costs that alone to yank your motor so consider it $3750. You have to pay for shipping a 150lb block that is $200. You have to buy new studs $500 you have to buy a new head gasket $250 you have to pay someone to pull your motor out, pull heads off, build longblock, re-install. $1500-$2000.

Under 3K???? You be dreamin'

However, I am FI. I blew my motor just recently and am going for a stock block again. The whole thing will cost me under $2000. Yes I wont be able to put down 650+ but I saved myself $4K by not going built block. Plus I will be driving my car again in a week or so. Had I gone built then Id be looking at 3 months probably.

Another thing to add is that if your motor lets go it can ruin the whole thing and not just the bottom end. So now your looking at adding another big amount to cost.

ZKraken22 · 07-17-2014, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ

You will never get by with spending 3K for a built bottom end. You have to send yours in to get that $750 deposit returned. It costs that alone to yank your motor so consider it $3750. You have to pay for shipping a 150lb block that is $200. You have to buy new studs $500 you have to buy a new head gasket $250 you have to pay someone to pull your motor out, pull heads off, build longblock, re-install. $1500-$2000.

Under 3K???? You be dreamin'

However, I am FI. I blew my motor just recently and am going for a stock block again. The whole thing will cost me under $2000. Yes I wont be able to put down 650+ but I saved myself $4K by not going built block. Plus I will be driving my car again in a week or so. Had I gone built then Id be looking at 3 months probably.

Another thing to add is that if your motor lets go it can ruin the whole thing and not just the bottom end. So now your looking at adding another big amount to cost.

Well you need to aim that comment to the company advertising 3750 stage one build. And two if you live in Houston or close to it you don't have to ship anything.

TopgunZ · 07-17-2014, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZKraken22

Well you need to aim that comment to the company advertising 3750 stage one build. And two if you live in Houston or close to it you don't have to ship anything.

If their s1 build is priced for complete breakdown and install then by all means Id love to. And unfortunately houston is in one state of 50.

TopgunZ · 07-17-2014, 08:05 PM

The best advice that can be given is if your gonna go, go for reliability. This means spending the extra money and time on the install.

I cheaped out on the fuel system and it cost me an engine.

nomodsjk · 07-17-2014, 09:18 PM

Pull the trigger and don't look back! You know you want to! Lol I'll play devil's advocate and tell you what you want to hear. You won't regret it

DIGItonium · 07-17-2014, 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick

You do it right, or don't bother to do it at all. Boosting a factory NA car is no place to cut corners!

When are you bringing that beast down to JTrans?

Not sure yet. I've got so much on my plate since I moved into my new home it's difficult to fund this project. I've found someone who might take it off my hands though. If not, I'll hang on for as long as I can till I clear my plate.

jwick · 07-17-2014, 11:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nomodsjk

Pull the trigger and don't look back! You know you want to! Lol I'll play devil's advocate and tell you what you want to hear. You won't regret it

even though I check over the kit every night just to make sure tonight wasn't the night it developed an oil leak, or a vacuum line came off, etc. and you always have that outside chance of ponying up for a new motor. when that turbo spools up, instant smile, best feeling.

(damn it...every time I need the 'push a dude off the cliff' smilie, I remember the mods haven't made it yet)... I highly recommend it!

Rid3_FaM0uS · 07-18-2014, 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ

You will never get by with spending 3K for a built bottom end. You have to send yours in to get that $750 deposit returned. It costs that alone to yank your motor so consider it $3750. You have to pay for shipping a 150lb block that is $200. You have to buy new studs $500 you have to buy a new head gasket $250 you have to pay someone to pull your motor out, pull heads off, build longblock, re-install. $1500-$2000.

Under 3K???? You be dreamin'

However, I am FI. I blew my motor just recently and am going for a stock block again. The whole thing will cost me under $2000. Yes I wont be able to put down 650+ but I saved myself $4K by not going built block. Plus I will be driving my car again in a week or so. Had I gone built then Id be looking at 3 months probably.

Another thing to add is that if your motor lets go it can ruin the whole thing and not just the bottom end. So now your looking at adding another big amount to cost.

Unfortunately Topgun; Im about to show the community otherwise

, so I would have to disagree with you. My forged short block + long block reassembly total cost me less than what its going to cost me to buy two brand new PTE 6262s.

ANMVQ · 07-18-2014, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ

You will never get by with spending 3K for a built bottom end. You have to send yours in to get that $750 deposit returned. It costs that alone to yank your motor so consider it $3750. You have to pay for shipping a 150lb block that is $200. You have to buy new studs $500 you have to buy a new head gasket $250 you have to pay someone to pull your motor out, pull heads off, build longblock, re-install. $1500-$2000.

Under 3K???? You be dreamin'

However, I am FI. I blew my motor just recently and am going for a stock block again. The whole thing will cost me under $2000. Yes I wont be able to put down 650+ but I saved myself $4K by not going built block. Plus I will be driving my car again in a week or so. Had I gone built then Id be looking at 3 months probably.

Another thing to add is that if your motor lets go it can ruin the whole thing and not just the bottom end. So now your looking at adding another big amount to cost.

I said get as in buy the short block for that, Install is a different matter, What he or she installs it themselves? Was just saying the "block" was that price we all know other things go into it but just costing 10-12k that's all.

And when mine went it was just the bottom end, Cyl 3 Rod.

TopgunZ · 07-18-2014, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rid3_FaM0uS

Unfortunately Topgun; Im about to show the community otherwise

, so I would have to disagree with you. My forged short block + long block reassembly total cost me less than what its going to cost me to buy two brand new PTE 6262s.

Well I would actually love to be proved wrong. Its not too late for me to go the built block route. If I could do this for an economical price then I'd be all ears.

Just saying that I examined the idea of a built block and it seemed it was going to cost me 3 times as much.

Ridefamous, You must do your own work judging by your profile pic. That saves TONS of money. Most people are not capable of doing such feats as an engine swap. I could if I had the equipment and time but...I don't.

I PM'd you.

Nixlimited · 07-18-2014, 10:48 AM

I owned my car outright before going FI.

tibal · 07-18-2014, 10:58 AM

FI w/ loan still on the car.. Almost paid off, thennn I will turn up the boost

07-17-2014, 02:02 PM	#16 (permalink)
Rid3_FaM0uS Track Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Wapakoneta, Ohio Posts: 506 Drives: 2011 BS Nismo 370z Rep Power: 44	I twined mine after 9 months of financing it. The car is still currently eating my wallet in more ways than one. But to answer your question I am FI and still paying for the car so I guess you can chalk me up on the "guilty" list __________________ Always under construction. . .

07-17-2014, 03:19 PM	#17 (permalink)
Chuy Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Colorado Springs Posts: 474 Drives: 2015 NISMO Rep Power: 15	I could of paid my baby girl off if I had not went FI __________________ Miko 2015 Nismo Tech: nothing RIP Ginger 2009 370Z Sport Touring

07-17-2014, 08:05 PM	#22 (permalink)
TopgunZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Minneapolis Posts: 2,651 Drives: 06 350Z , 09 370Z MT Rep Power: 6833	The best advice that can be given is if your gonna go, go for reliability. This means spending the extra money and time on the install. I cheaped out on the fuel system and it cost me an engine. __________________ ROTREX SUPERCHARGER TUNER KITS - $6799/ CUSTOM STILLEN AIR TO AIR KITS -$2100/ 700+ WHP!! WWW.TOPGUNSPEEDWORKS.COM

07-17-2014, 09:18 PM	#23 (permalink)
nomodsjk Premium Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: martinsburg wv Posts: 2,073 Drives: 2011 370z MB/7at Rep Power: 19962	Pull the trigger and don't look back! You know you want to! Lol I'll play devil's advocate and tell you what you want to hear. You won't regret it ANMVQ likes this.

07-18-2014, 10:48 AM	#29 (permalink)
Nixlimited A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: San Diego Posts: 1,235 Drives: 15 GT-R / 11 Prius Rep Power: 25	I owned my car outright before going FI. __________________ Car Sold! Pleasure being a part of the Z community. New ride: 2015 GT-R - 647 WHP / 641 WTQ (e85) & 543 WHP / 519 WTQ (91)

07-18-2014, 10:58 AM	#30 (permalink)
tibal Track Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Safest Town In America Posts: 987 Drives: TT-370Z and 2.5RS Rep Power: 17	FI w/ loan still on the car.. Almost paid off, thennn I will turn up the boost __________________ 2010 - PG - M6 - 370zTT 453/409 6lbs IG @TRbal10 TEAM FLY1 MOTORSPORTS

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