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Day 3;
thought I'd throw up a few pictures as well (they have been added to my album), got a fair bit done today. Came up with a really good solution for everyone upgrading to the frozenboost heat exchanger, this involves the lower part of the crash bar frame (not the main beam) and using the arms as brackets so the heat exchanger sits back far enough so you don't have to cut up the front bar + don't have to cut up the crash bar itself. It's a combination between Vlad and Ivo's installs. Measured the heat exchanger to need to sit around 20-25mm behind being flush with the crash beam. You'll still need to remove the standard drain plug and find something to block the hole, I'll be trying to find a Hex key bolt like the one already on the unit in another place, and also cut out a whole in the plastic which screws to the front bar so I can drain the fluid when needed, just like you would with the engine's radiator. I'll label the pictures as Frozenboost so you get the idea, any questions just ask. managed to mount the blower along with the water pump/water reservoir/overflow bottle/plumbing for it and put the new belt on, test fit the intakes to make sure they don't interfere with the heat exchanger positioning. I did have to move the horns, on the Aus models we have a High and Low horn, one is on either side of the front, I've had to move the one from the right (looking at the front of the car) to the left hand side, just used the same bracket as the existing one and put them both onto it. Also tidied up some of the cabling etc in the engine bay, it was starting to get all over the place, so removed some mounts, moved some cables under/over things and redone the mounts. Tomorrow will be heading out first of all to get the water plugs/hex key for drain of the heat exchanger and getting distilled water (already have the MoCool) along with new genuine nissan coolant for engine (as I had to drain it even after being told multiple times would not!) up to page 22 of 37 for tomorrows start after finishing off the cooler stuff, there's not many parts left over now, mainly some wiring to do and some more plumbing, STILL waiting on my tune file.... will be ringing vivid again tonight to try get it, also contacted my tuner and they are seeing if they have anything available from previous stillen installs. |
I'm not 100% sure with the stillen SC kit, but I know with other kits you can potentially drive on the stock tune for a short distance if you need to, to get to your tuner. Just keep it under 3k rpm and out of boost and be cautious, basically keeping the system thinking all is the same. How far is your tuner? Another option might be to tow the car.
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so you think it would be safe if I don't get a tune in time just to start it/check for leaks and not drive it, I'm happy to get a tow if needed and I've advised them I may need one and they can organise it all for me. I was just worried cause we have changed fuel pump/injectors/spark plugs/maf sensor positions etc.. never really changed this much before and used a standard cars tune, I know they are a lot better these days with making adjustments. tuner is about 50km (31-32miles) away, mostly highway driving as well, so would just be sitting in 6th around 2000-2500rpm. I could definitely shift under 3k rpm if needed, it's not gunna stall on me? lol |
I will have to check with others, because more so on how the stillen moves a few items versus other setups. I know some have started up on a stock tune to check for leaks while waiting and it was ok.
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Double Check with Stillen just to make sure ...
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after people who have done so if possible ;) |
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I use the coil-pack boot to remove and start old/new plugs, works like a champ. ;) |
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mainly just wanted to start it to make sure there are no leaks, would feel so bad if I got it to the tuner and there was a leak somewhere and they had to fix my work.. |
We don't ever start the cars here at STILLEN without a tune. Because of the bigger injectors and the voltage change in signals you would run lean at higher rpm but should be very rich at idle. You might be okay with just turning it on and letting it idle but I can't say for sure and would personally not risk it.
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yeah definitely would take it really easy, majority of the trip 50km (31-32 miles) is highway driving so could cruise along at slightly less than highway speeds around 2k RPM. |
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And the questions clarified. :tup: |
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