VSR Engine Build

ZKraken22 · 03-06-2014, 07:43 AM

Any type of warranty on the shortblock?

AdobePhil · 03-06-2014, 07:44 AM

I learned my lesson. I was in panic mode. I blew it 4 days before I moved from Utah back down here. I tried to get it covered under warranty by reverting everything to stock but Nissan apparently has a little black box and denied me due to my AFR. By the time the Decision was made it was already 2 weeks without my car and Uhaul damaged it in addition during the move. So I just wanted to get it fixed because I was tired of driving a rental.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

SRperformance · 03-06-2014, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZKraken22

Any type of warranty on the shortblock?

We cover our work, we balance and blueprint the engine. Chances of failure is very slim.

1slow370 · 03-06-2014, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RyanWest

Doesnt make much sense to me to run higher compression! I guess the next question here is what turbos are going to run on this build??

well it is still lower since the factory is 11:1 but as I said that ratio is best suited for use in the 550-750 range. anything more than that and you are going to want to go down to 9:1 for increased durability the dynamic CR at 10:1 and 17-18psi(700hp) is 12.5:1 that is the same as 20.5psi on a 9:1 motor

RyanWest · 03-06-2014, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1slow370

well it is still lower since the factory is 11:1 but as I said that ratio is best suited for use in the 550-750 range. anything more than that and you are going to want to go down to 9:1 for increased durability the dynamic CR at 10:1 and 17-18psi(700hp) is 12.5:1 that is the same as 20.5psi on a 9:1 motor

word

phunk · 03-08-2014, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

How the hell do they not have a full set if they're the same as the GTR?

I believe that only the main bearings are the same between HR/VHR and VR38. But I cannot hands-on confirm this... its just what I "understand".

For the rod bearings, a HR/VHR should use 57mm big end bore, at .818" width.

VR38 should be 59mm big end bore, at .894" width.

Anyone correct me if this is incorrect.

ZKraken22 · 03-08-2014, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SRperformance

We cover our work, we balance and blueprint the engine. Chances of failure is very slim.

And what kinda power would the short block hold?

SRperformance · 03-11-2014, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZKraken22

And what kinda power would the short block hold?

As much as the stock sleeves will hold. I would say safe on those rods 700hp

COSMO · 03-12-2014, 01:03 AM

Actually those k1 connecting rods are rated up to 900hp..

Z&I · 05-23-2014, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1slow370

Are you asking about the 10:1 pistons? It increases the the low boost performance by raising pressures to spool the turbos faster and provide more torque, of course anyone going over 15psi would be better off with the current 9:1 offerings as eventually with more boost the higher ratio is going to raise pressures too high. but for the guys in the 550-700 range it will be a more efficient built motor.

At high power levels the 9:1 motor will see less stress than the 10:1 motor, but the 10:1 more will make more power for the amount of charge it gets.

Hi ...
Following this build out of necessity... :-(

Just want to clarify things in my mind ...
I need to rebuild my motor.

I have stock block with an upgraded Stillen SC'r making 11.9 lbs boost along with 1000 lph injectors and other supporting goodies.
It dyno'd at 483whp and 378 tq.
First time down the track it cracked a piston or ??? Nothing came thru the side of the block.

Would like to keep as much of the mods already done but keep or up the power to the 550-600 range while keeping the reliability of the motor.

Definitely a Long Block (can send my motor) - but need advice / recommendation for the Compression Ratio ~ Pistons and Rods

9.0:1 or 10.0:1 ??? for the Supercharged motor.

All help greatly appreciated !

Many Thanks,

elperuano · 05-23-2014, 09:35 PM

Good question!
Not sure which is the best route to go on built block SC but I can tell you with a built block and Stillen SC ur not gonna make even 500hp.

You should consult ur installer or tuner as that kit will not come close to putting the amount of stress required to pop a motor. Something most likely went wrong during install or tune.

U could build ur block and I believe a fellow member did the same going 10:1. He ended up selling the Stillen kit and now has a single turbo kit making nice numbers.

1slow370 · 05-23-2014, 09:38 PM

Yep may as well go 10:1 but if only 600 is your goal some standard forged 11:1 slugs may be your best bet. Think stock but stronger.

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Z&I · 05-23-2014, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by elperuano

Good question!
Not sure which is the best route to go on built block SC but I can tell you with a built block and Stillen SC ur not gonna make even 500hp.

You should consult ur installer or tuner as that kit will not come close to putting the amount of stress required to pop a motor. Something most likely went wrong during install or tune.

U could build ur block and I believe a fellow member did the same going 10:1. He ended up selling the Stillen kit and now has a single turbo kit making nice numbers.

Thanks for the quick reply !!! Mucho Appreciado

It' definitely not a Stillen any more - just looks like one.
Upgraded everything imagineable.

There have been a lot more options available since I put the Stillen in a long time ago.
I do have a lot invested in the build and at the risk of throwing good money after bad ... I don't want to start all over again ... time and money and down time again.
It has been about 7 months in the build so far (I'm all patience'd out) and am at the point that I will be happy to get in to the 11's (I'm in the low 12's now)

Point me in the right direction utilizing what I already have ... Tired of waiting and just want to drive again.

But :-) send me the link to that Single Turbo just in case !!!

Z&I · 05-23-2014, 10:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1slow370

Yep may as well go 10:1 but if only 600 is your goal some standard forged 11:1 slugs may be your best bet. Think stock but stronger.

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

Thanks !
At this time 600 whp for me is practical ...

The Z's just don't seem to hook up as good as they should...
All that extra HP sometimes seems to go to waste at the track.

Open for more input !!!

1slow370 · 05-23-2014, 11:19 PM

ok if you are sure on sticking with the stillen then i would go with 11:1 so you won't lose any power since getting more air out of that charger is going to be hard. If you call voretch and do a core exchange on a V7 it will be a toss up between the 10:1 and 11:1 pistons. you lose horsepower every time you go down in compression ratio, but you lower cylinder pressure, so unless you can boost the engine more to make the power back(and then some) sticking with stronger pistons and the factory ratio is the way to go. This is especially important when dealing with an undersized blower because it can only push so much air. with the v7 you would be able to make up for going down to 10:1. I believe the v7 also has the larger higher speed bearings in it so it can be spun much faster, but is externally oiled so you would either need a pump and reservoir setup for it or tie it in to the engines oil circuit. the v7's compressor cover is a bit larger as well so no guaranty that it will fit without a little work. once you get to that size tho you are going to need additional cooling by the way of meth or redoing the intercooler piping. also if you havent relocated the MAF sensors already you should do that. the inlet pipe on the stillen kit is also very restrictive with the offset coupler going to a single 2.5" pipe(

stillen that is HALF of what the car had stock to breath through)

so to sum it up
if stillen v3: 11:1
if stillen v7 +upgrades: 10:1

or just go 10:1 sell your kit go turbo and you will have 600hp.

Also if you stick with it and have the piping re done the stillen intake manifold is garbage and should be used as boat anchor like it was designed, if you can use the factory manifold and an air to air inter cooler I guarantee you will gain power

03-06-2014, 07:43 AM	#76 (permalink)
ZKraken22 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 1,115 Drives: 10 Nissan 370Z 7AT Rep Power: 16	Any type of warranty on the shortblock? __________________ Litespeed Racing Titanium Cold Air intake// GT Haus Axle// GarageLine combo// Nismo sway bars// Nismo Spoiler // Berk TP's

03-06-2014, 07:44 AM	#77 (permalink)
AdobePhil Base Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Palm Harbor FL Posts: 211 Drives: 2010 370z Sport Trim Rep Power: 14	I learned my lesson. I was in panic mode. I blew it 4 days before I moved from Utah back down here. I tried to get it covered under warranty by reverting everything to stock but Nissan apparently has a little black box and denied me due to my AFR. By the time the Decision was made it was already 2 weeks without my car and Uhaul damaged it in addition during the move. So I just wanted to get it fixed because I was tired of driving a rental. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk __________________ 2010 370z Sport Trim / Anodized Racing Pedals / Injen CAI / Invidia Exhaust / Kinetix HFCs/ AEM 320ml Fuel Pump / Upgraded fuel lines and rails / Deutchwerks 850cc Fuel Injectors / Zex Nitrous / Uprev Tuned / /330whp N/A/452whp Nitrous

03-12-2014, 01:03 AM	#84 (permalink)
COSMO A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: FL Posts: 1,816 Drives: 2012 Touring GTM TT Rep Power: 19	Actually those k1 connecting rods are rated up to 900hp.. Last edited by COSMO; 03-12-2014 at 01:08 AM.

05-23-2014, 09:38 PM	#87 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7250	Yep may as well go 10:1 but if only 600 is your goal some standard forged 11:1 slugs may be your best bet. Think stock but stronger. Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

05-23-2014, 11:19 PM	#90 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7250	ok if you are sure on sticking with the stillen then i would go with 11:1 so you won't lose any power since getting more air out of that charger is going to be hard. If you call voretch and do a core exchange on a V7 it will be a toss up between the 10:1 and 11:1 pistons. you lose horsepower every time you go down in compression ratio, but you lower cylinder pressure, so unless you can boost the engine more to make the power back(and then some) sticking with stronger pistons and the factory ratio is the way to go. This is especially important when dealing with an undersized blower because it can only push so much air. with the v7 you would be able to make up for going down to 10:1. I believe the v7 also has the larger higher speed bearings in it so it can be spun much faster, but is externally oiled so you would either need a pump and reservoir setup for it or tie it in to the engines oil circuit. the v7's compressor cover is a bit larger as well so no guaranty that it will fit without a little work. once you get to that size tho you are going to need additional cooling by the way of meth or redoing the intercooler piping. also if you havent relocated the MAF sensors already you should do that. the inlet pipe on the stillen kit is also very restrictive with the offset coupler going to a single 2.5" pipe( stillen that is HALF of what the car had stock to breath through) so to sum it up if stillen v3: 11:1 if stillen v7 +upgrades: 10:1 or just go 10:1 sell your kit go turbo and you will have 600hp. Also if you stick with it and have the piping re done the stillen intake manifold is garbage and should be used as boat anchor like it was designed, if you can use the factory manifold and an air to air inter cooler I guarantee you will gain power esfourteen, Mr&Mrs, elperuano and 2 others like this. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50 Last edited by 1slow370; 05-24-2014 at 12:03 AM.

05-23-2014, 09:35 PM	#86 (permalink)
elperuano A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Southwest FL Posts: 1,374 Drives: G37S Rep Power: 28	Good question! Not sure which is the best route to go on built block SC but I can tell you with a built block and Stillen SC ur not gonna make even 500hp. You should consult ur installer or tuner as that kit will not come close to putting the amount of stress required to pop a motor. Something most likely went wrong during install or tune. U could build ur block and I believe a fellow member did the same going 10:1. He ended up selling the Stillen kit and now has a single turbo kit making nice numbers.

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