This is easy power right there. Kind of shows the level of workmanship that goes into a GTM branded product.

UPDATE: Just got off the phone with bobby at vsr and my built motor goes out tomorrow!!!! And for those wondering those gtm exhaust manifolds have been perfected (thanks to me and my grinder) and being shipped to vsr tomorrow to have them make better one's in which hopefully won't have to be drilled or tapped. Opening that up the exhaust manifold that 1/4 of an inch should help the flow a lot. After measuring it's like 20% bigger now and matches the gasket.

Good stuff!

sweet, looks good man. I can't believe they didn't make them like that to begin with!

Hey cosmo. How far into the port did you grind?

As far I could reach to get those sharp edges down for a nice even flow. I will take a few close up shots tomorrow but trust me it's a lot better than what it was...

Thinking about going with this specific oil just for my break-in.

Amazon.com: COMP Cams 1590 10W30 Break-In Engine Oil - 1 Quart Bottle: Automotive

Joe Gibbs makes one like that too if I remember correctly.

Found it...

Amazon.com: Joe Gibbs 01806 BR-30 5W-30 Break-In Motor Oil - 1 Quart Bottle: Automotive

What's the procedure with that? Run it for the first few hundred miles and then dump it for nonsynthetic for the rest of the break in period?

I guess it depends on VSR and what they recommend.

I believe break in oil is only for flat tapped motors with a shít load of ZDDP making it not ok for cars with cats. (I don't think you do, so you should be ok to run it I guess)

I'd run:
Liqui Moly 2009 Anti-Friction Oil Treatment - 300 ml : Amazon.com : Automotive

Or maybe 2 bottles of it and call it a day, maybe their more expensive one CeraTec.
(Yes. I use LiquiMoly, and like the product very much, tempted to use their 0W-30 oil, but all my oil changes are prepaid anyways)

As long as it is Conventional Motor Oil it should be fine. But yea, 300-500 then do an oil change then maybe another 3-4k miles with the Conventional Motor Oil, change then go with a good synthetic like motul...

Do they recommend you change the oil after the fist couple of heat cycles before you even take it out on the road? I've seen some engine builders recommend that you start the motor, let it idle for 20-30 min and then dump the oil.

Forgot to post that but yes he did recommend starting it for the first time and allowing it to idle for about 30 min then drop the oil and proceed with the details on my last post.. Hey it's still early..:rofl2:

I don't know why that would matter anymore. I think that's old wisdom still seeping through

When Mobil 1 and a crap Fram filter is $29 Walmart, I don't see why you wouldn't do that. Hell, let's double it because I don't know how much the OP's system holds)