HKS EVC 6 How To?
 

I am in the process of doing a BP kit install. I currently have the HKS EVC 6 sitting here and looking over the instructions. I am more than confused when comparing the pieces to what is shown in the manual.

There is a brown wire that is supposed to be for "scramble boost activation"... do I have to hook it up or can i leave it unattached?

It also wants me to T off the fuel pressure line. Is that normal? Where would I T it off?

Also, does anyone have a picture of the wiring to the ECU? I need to connect it to the "throttle signal line" and "engine RPM or speed signal line". Or does anyone know where those wires are at and/or recommend a spot to tap those two wires?

Anyone have any comments or recommendations as to how to do this install?

Thanks

I posted this in the wrong section, can a mod move this in the Forced Induction please?

Moved to the right section.

For the fuel pressure line, would I tap the hose that is #2?

http://oi43.tinypic.com/2cy1lon.jpg

Nooo... Nooonnooonooo, that's your main fuel line. Our cars don't have a vacuum line on the fuel pressure regulator because our cars use a return-less fuel system (the fuel pressure regulator is on your fuel pump in the fuel tank). The vacuum hose you need to T off of will be the one that you tapped in your intake plenum that plugs into the blow off valve. Essentially you want a vacuum source after your throttles.

You don't need to wire a scramble switch, nor do you need to wire the RPM/vehicle speed sensor/throttle signal wire if you don't want to use these features. Just tuck them away so they don't short on anything.

Hopes this helps.

:iagree:

I Have the HKS EVC 6 also. The directions need to be revised for more setups. Especially TT setups.

IIRC, the MBC boost source on my car is tapped to the passenger side intake pipe. In this case, the boost source goes to the control valve input. The wastegates are tied together with a T fitting, and a single line goes to the control valve output.

I have come to the conclusion that the instructions that come with the HKS EVC6 is terrible...

If you want to tap the signal wires from your ECU, you'll need to look up the harness in the service manual. You might want to ask around about compatibility, first.

Yea, I asked around about it already. Was told to leave the speed/rpm and throttle signal alone. I was also told that the scramble boost also is useless because of VVEL causing boost to fluctuate. Honestly I may just end up using the EVC6 for it's basic functions.

I have all the diagrams for this. Before I found out that you don't have to hook them up if your not using scramble mode. But defiantly ask if you go that route.

How about setting boost pressure according to engine RPM or load and gear selection? That's the only use I'd like to have over the scramble option.

It would be nice to keep the wastegates closed longer for better response, but limit maximum power in the lower gears. On second thought, 450 whp in 1st and 2nd is still relatively easy to handle [with new tires]. ;)

That I'd like to know also. Boost by gear.

I think I figured something out with a little help from another member here lol...

What the manual calls a fuel pressure regulator may actually be the blow off valve. I could be wrong because of how the pictures look. It just looks wrong for some reason.

Naaah. The BOV's are untouched. They relieve pressure. So that's nothing to do with boost pressure.

What are you trying to do?

The picture in the manual shows the hose connected to the intake manifold to something they call the "fuel pressure regulator". It wants me to cut that hose and T it off to connect it to the EVC Stepping motor.

Are you sure it isn't the BOV?

It's because the BOV does have a port that I believe is used to connect it with the intake manifold. It's basically a vacuum source.

http://oi44.tinypic.com/zvd79i.jpg
http://oi40.tinypic.com/349ezpk.jpg

That what we said earlier. Because our cars have a returnless fuel system we don't have a vacuum source for the fuel. So what you do is tap the back of the intake manifold with 1/8'' tap NPT and install a 1/8'' threaded barbed fitting NPT into. That becomes your source for the boost controller. This is what HKS doesn't show for us.

Read page 75 http://www.gtmotorsports.com/Manuals...structions.pdf

The vacuum port for the BOV go to another barbed port that needs to be tapped behind the throttle bodies on the intake manifold.

I already have it tapped for the BP turbo kit. It will be used to connect to the BOV. Can't I use a T fitting on that hose and connect it to the stepping motor?

No. You have to add another port. The vacuum line for the BOV is strictly for the BOV and nothing else. BOV's relieve pressure only and in no way should be used for a source for boost.

I cannot wrap my head around this. So I have to tap a SECOND line into the intake manifold to connect that into the stepping motor.

Wouldn't the hose connecting between the intake manifold and BOV be doing the same thing except it is connected to a BOV and not to the stepping motor? In other words wouldn't I be able to T off that hose and connect it to the stepping motor. Or would it cause other problems?

I think I need a break lol.

EDIT: Oldboy is saying what I just said but you are saying that I shouldn't T it off.

What do..?!?

Yes add a second. This is how it's been told to me by Mike at GTM. He gave me the reason why not to attach to the BOV but I can't recall his actual wording. I see why your thinking that way. But the BOV and the Boost control function differently so why have two different functioning equipment operating from the same source. Let them each have there own source.

BOV use a suction while boost is a force.

It doesn't matter if you're using the same vacuum port that feeds the BOV. That vacuum line only serves to counter the pressure of the spring in the BOV so you can vent excessive pressure in your charge pipes. That line is never vented to atmosphere. It represents the pressure in your intake plenum at all time.

When you're boostin' you pressurize your plenum. When you suddenly let go of the throttle, the throttles close and a vacuum is created in your plenum but pressure is still being built in all your charge pipes before the throttle. If the BOV wasn't there, there's a good chance you'd blow your couplers off from the pressure.

So, I can T that vacuum hose between the intake manifold and BOV to connect it to the EVC stepping motor?

Yes you can, I'm currently running that setup on my BP kit also. Just keep the T as close as you can to the plenum and you'll be fine.

Alright, thank you.

I have another question if you don't mind. Where did you get your 12v power source from for the EVC6?

I used the 12V ''cigarette lighter" port underneath the glove box as its ignition switched, easily accessible and doesn't affect any other systems if I blow a fuse. The EVC 6 comes with an inline fuse holder with a 2A fuse, so be sure to use that one.

You could probably get an "add-a-circuit" fuse and find a suitable circuit to add it to but I was a bit lazy and I knew that the circuit for the 12V socket can power way more than was needed for the EVC 6 and I can still use the plug to charge my phone. Like I said, be sure to use that 2A inline fuse holder when you solder it.

It's recommended not to share multiple functions for these devices. Per HKS and ever other manufacture. I read several more articles why. Do what you want! I sat here explaining why while also research other top sites of why not to and one guy comes in and said "you can" and you jump.

I haven't even done it yet. Plus I haven't decided what to do yet. I do want to research more on it before I do anything.

HKS instructions actually contradicts what you just said. There is no logic as to why HKS would not recommend sharing a line when they have instructions showing to do so.

I don't want to start a war with you SPOHN, but you don't have to give the guy a hard time if he chose to use the same setup as that "one guy". That "one guy" is actually running the Boosted Performance turbo kit also with the exact same boost controller, T'd off the exact same way I told him with zero issues. Ever heard of a vacuum block? By your reasoning, HKS made a mistake by telling us to tap into the vacuum hose of the fuel pressure regulator, because its essentially splitting the same vacuum hose for 2 functions, the boost controller and the fuel pressure regulator.

In any case, Cell can do what he wants, he's a grown man and it's his car. No need to be condescending about it. If he wants to punch another hole in his plenum just to have a dedicated vacuum hose for the EVC's vacuum reference, then by all means, he can do it. Since the hose he's T'ing off of isn't smaller than the vacuum reference hose to the EVC, I fail to see the problem. I'm just letting him know from my experience that it works fine.

That's fine. I just know no performance shop would run it this way. I could test a battery with my tongue to see if works but rather do it the proper way. If you ever have a trouble shooting issue then you will have to isolate from the two objects. Sorry I'm so strong opinionated just giving solid info to insure proper recommended techniques.

My friend, I respect your opinion. I'm not saying you're wrong, I'm just saying the same results will happen either way he decides to do it. It's quite easy to isolate the two. It's just a matter of taste I guess. I for one, didn't want to drill a hole in the plastic plenum for nothing, so I just T'd off of the one we already had to tap into for the kit. The best of both world would be to buy a vacuum block and just plug everything from it.

Like they say, there's more than one way to skin a cat, doesn't mean one is better than the other, as long as they have the same results.

And what do you mean about the battery? You trying to tell me there's a better way of testing those? :D

Your way is not wrong either and I know it will work. I just choose to have a single source for a boost controller. That's just the way I recommend and I was taught so I stick to that. Just as you stated make sure the line to the boost controller is short as possiable also.

Lets go get a beer now?

I just did a fast scan about this thread.

So Sphon, youre saying that we should not follow the instruction manual that came with the HKS EVC 6?

sounds good with me :tup:

Guys... This is real easy.

EVC solenoid has 3 vacuum ports on it.

Port 1: internal map sensor. (Boost/vacuum sensor)
Port 2: wastegate reference in (from manifold)
Port 3: wastegate reference out (to wastegates)

So the hks manual says to Tee in port 1 off the fuel pressure regulator line. It's merely a suggestions, it doesn't matter at all. So long as it ends up seeing manifold pressure. On a 350/370/g37/etc you couldn't do it this way if you wanted.. The regulator is in the gas tank and has no vacuum reference to tap.

Here's the thing about port 1 guys... For 10 years I have been hooking up port 1 to Tee into port 2, right at the solenoid. Cause its the same ****. It works fine, controls my boost to .1-.2 repeatability.

As for the wiring.. Power and ground and your set, you got boost controlling.

If you want boost by speed, you will need to hook up the speed wire.
If you want a scramble boost switch, hook one up.

Always make sure the boost controller settings are set for "actuator type" if you are only using the side port of external gates and leaving the top ports open. Or external type if you're using both ports on the gate. This is important or boost will sky rocket when you test it.

Here's how I have had the wastegates hooked up in my 370 forever; Nissan 370Z Forum - phunk's Album: phunk's TT 370z - Picture

I put a vacuum manifold on the brake booster line. Notice both ports 1 and 2 for the evc are connected to the manifold. Then port 3 goes to a bulkhead on my firewall pointing down to my wastegates.

Said and done with the plastic back on : Nissan 370Z Forum - phunk's Album: phunk's TT 370z - Picture

That's my wastegate line headed down.

Also note in the 2nd pic that there is a Tee behind my drivers side throttle... There is one exactly like it for the passenger side throttle also... They are my BOV lines.

I have not tapped into the plastic manifold, there is no reason to make a mess with that... It's got a couple ports on it already.

http://oi40.tinypic.com/2j3lgn4.jpg

tHIS WILL BE what I will be doing. Unless there is a problem...

The wastegates I have has 2 top ports.