Not sure why this would be a problem... it's a giant heater, it will just melt snow that gets too close...

:icon17:

Not sure about snow (my Z doesn't see any snow whatsoever) but I've put my Z quite a few time through a touch-less car wash that pressure washes the underside and I had ZERO issues with it. I didn't even put the splash guard back on.

The way the kit is designed, the air filter is tucked in between the engine, the frame and the sub-frame, essentially encasing it.

This kit is rock solid. Definitely the best bang for your buck that you can get. Everything in this kit is overkill, everything!! The only thing I would add to this kit would be a fuel return conversion kit. Maybe Sasha should get in contact with Charles @ CJMotorsport and work on a deal for an optional upgrade.

Hey BTW Sasha, does the free upgrade offer for a built block still stands for members that have the kit already? Any rebates for your early adopters from the first batch? :icon17: I was on the fence and thinking of buying a spare block and forging everything, cause, you know, losing traction in 4th @ 110 km/h @ 8psi on the safe tune isn't scary enough :ugh2:.

Thanks for the positive feedback...good to hear you are enjoying the kit.

As for a built engine...I would be wiling to work with the first customer that goes that route. An upgrade to a 67mm turbo would be the way to go, and this is something we can talk about. These 67mm turbos push as much as two GTX2863r's...so a lot of air.

First part arrived today (scavenge pump) and the rest are on their way :D Tear down starts tomorrow. It begins!

The kit has been shipped. My supplier is just waiting for the turbo, and once it arrives, it will be sent to you direct.

Look forward to the build thread. :tup:

Couple pointers that will eventually be in my build thread...

- Get your ECU number and send it to Sasha as soon as you get the UpRev cable. This will save you base map time later.
- Fitting the turbo is the only frustrating part. I found it easier to clock the turbo on the car. Get it close on the bench. Leave compressor side loose. Fit to charge pipe and exhaust manifold and rotate til its perfect. Then tighten two bolts, pull it back out and tighten the rest.
- To get turbo in charge pipe, lube with oil and have someone hold the front charge pipe while you push. Makes it MUCH easier. Make sure the clamp is as open as it will get with the nut still on.
- Pay very close attention to the pictures on the transmission harness. It's kind of confusing at first. I also added heat tape to the harness while I was in there. Once the exhaust manifold and turbo are on, you won't get to it again.

The install is very easy and straight forward. I started my car for the first time tonight and I'm probably a little bit over 20 hours into it working very slowly and 95% by myself. Just need to finish up the gauge install now.

Good luck!

Awesome thanks for the tips! Congrats on getting it up and running!

Feel free to PM me if you need anything.

Will do! Thanks!

mmmm sooo tempting with my christmas bonus coming up soon.... anyone have links to their dyno sheets? I know ive seen a few but its always the same ones. Prefferably people running 93 pump gas

I am running 93 and made 501whp @ 11.5 psi with oil temps around 205F. Made 490whp @ 10 psi with oil temps close to 180-190F. It is also tuned to be a bit on the safer side if I remember correctly.

Thanks for sharing. Those are def. safe side numbers cosidering the boost presssure.


For those looking at numbers, remember that every dyno will ready differently, and every tuner will tune to what they feel "comfortable" with. The best way to find out how much power you have is to take it to the drag strip like some of my local customers. I think they ran 11's on street tires and 2.2 60' times. Can't remember the trap speed, but it was up in the 120's (from memory). This is with minimal drag strip experience too.

I do understand every dyno reads differently and tuners will as well... Just trying to get an avg number that people are pushing the kit to. I feel like his 500 at 11psi is on the lower side that ive seen on your kit. Didnt the first one make around 500 on under 10 psi? just trying to remember off the cuff, i could be wrong.

JMac88 hit 550 whp on the very first kit.....

This was the prototype kit/tune:

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b1...scan0001-1.jpg


At the point where he made 550whp (94 octane), the boost reading was 9psi. We tried to get the boost to hold solid at 10psi all the way through but the VVEL seems to have a drastic effect on boost tapering for some reason. The key thing to look at is that the HP keeps going up despite the slight drop in boost.

Here is another tune with 93 octane gas:

R/T Tuning – Dyno Tuning & Engine Performance Specialists – Boosted Performance + R/T Tuning + Nissan 370z = A Match Made in Heaven


Since the prototype was built, I have switched the turbine housing size to the 1.15 a/r vs the 1.0 a/r that we started off with. It offers more flow, and as a result a more efficient system. With these engines revving so high, I would not hesitate going with a 1.32 a/r turbine housing. It will spool a bit slower, but the top end would really make up for it.