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Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)
-   Forced Induction (http://www.the370z.com/forced-induction/)
-   -   GTM Racelogic Traction control Review (http://www.the370z.com/forced-induction/68875-gtm-racelogic-traction-control-review.html)

ENT-Z 03-27-2013 09:09 PM
Definitely on my to purchase list. I believe it would be great on road courses. Anyone disagree on that?

Mr.Squeeze 03-28-2013 12:07 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by elperuano (Post 2237031)
Gotta agree here. If ur havin traction problems then ur suspension n tires need to be looked at first.

While its a gear product, for that price I'll look into other areas before goin this route. I want to plant ALL my power to the ground. This device cuts power to the wheels to keep traction. I didnt get 540hp to not use it all.

Not knockin the product at all, personally for me would prolly be a last resort.
Your right when you say suspension and tires should be looked at first before the traction control system. But I must say that when it cuts powers it's not that bad ,also you have to remember you can fine to it for it to cut the perfect amount of power. This allows you to put the maximum amount of power to ground while still going forward trust me ts amazing. Also have a 2 step to built boost at the track is the icing on the cake for a turbo car . This are things that Uprev just can't do .


Racelogic Key features
1.The ability adjust 1% increments from 0%-25% allowing the driver to dial in the perfect setting for there car. Now there are many factor's that contribute to this tire's/suspension weather condition's. This can be done on the fly just by turning the knob

2. 2 Step launch control allows you to build boost of the line and adjust how much slippage you want.

With that being said you can still loose traction and get sideways if you set the system to allow to much wheel spin. I made this mistake when I first put the system on my car went out for a drive in 25 degree weather. Once I dialed it in I was able fly in the same conditions.

I also updated my first post with the key features .

BigT 03-28-2013 11:27 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Z eliminator (Post 2237200)
a thought ? the GTR has launch control and it an automatic. Any body know how it works on there car.
GTR doesn't have a torque converter. It was two clutch packs of multiple discs. 1 set of clutches for gears 1/3/5 and other set for 2/4/6. It launches the same as a normal manual trans except the clutches are hydrauliclly operated and electronically controled vs having a man pedal. Consecutive gears are already pulled and ready and when it shifts, one clutch disengages and the other engages hence the super fast shifting.

JMac88 03-28-2013 01:19 PM
I would suggest reading the info on Racelogics website as there is some really good stuff on there. You need to realize that when this system cuts power, we are talking thousandths of a second (1 injector pulse) at a time. The point of this is to keep your tires right on the cusp of slipping, which in theroy is also the point of maximum traction. Do I agree that tires and suspension should be looked at? Sure, but if you need a set of tires for every track condition this could easily be considered cheaper.

Sent from my SGH-T889V using Tapatalk 2

Staples 03-31-2013 02:48 AM
I understand the concept of how this works, but my only real question is; Would this interfere with the Aquamist Direct-Port Methanol kit?

If the Aquamist kit reads off injector duty cycle and you have the traction control shutting injector pulses off, won't that clash with each other coming out of the hole? I would think you would get an uneven spray pattern going on.

Mkai0 04-01-2013 11:05 PM
You bring up a good point Staples. All I know is my Racelogic setup seems to be working flawless with my Aquamist setup.

Diabel 04-02-2013 01:45 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Z eliminator (Post 2237053)
Ive used mine at the track 1/4 mile. i tried everything and could not find how to use the launch control. Car lost 2 th's with traction control on , But it ran straight as an arrow.
never spun the tire's (305 35 18 M/T drag radials/
Now on a 7 AT if you try to hold the gas and brake the ECU kill the engine and it will drop rpm and run terrible off the line. If your lucky may be 1700 rpm with out your back wheels braking free on the stock converter, You have to pull the brake fuse. I have a Pro torque 3200 rpm stall converter and i hold the car at 2000 rpm you then mash the gas and let the brake pedal go on the start of the last yellow light. I have a video of this and the car moves at 3200 rpm. I have talked to Sam how to get it to work for i would love to launch at 5000 rpm. He is working on this for me and i hope that he finds a way to make it work. What setting did you set the slip for on the race logic for this . Ive tried ever setting and got really frustrated with it. I removed the race logic and the car ran a 12.50 vs a 12.70. I have not given up on it but it gets a little busy in the car after you leave the burn out box. My car also runs richer A/f when i run the race logic. Driving it on the street is way better than the factory TC. Do you also turn of the factory TC when you run the race logic? When the brake fuse is pulled the factory TC should not work,
im running 12.342 now with out it and i have no traction problems coming off the line 1.80 60 ft times but i do have line lock to heat up the back tire's
Well thats what i found how my car drives with it, Its great in the rain.
I also have 4.08 gears in the car.
If some body figures out how to make it work at the track please let me know
thanks

Z
That's strange, isn't GTM RaceLogic supposed to be an advantage on the 1/4 mile drag ? As far as I understand the main idea with RaceLogic is to put as much power to the ground as possible without loosing the traction. So in theory it should help to achieve better drag times than without it (ofcourse with oem Taction Control system off). Am I wrong?

BigT 04-02-2013 08:43 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diabel (Post 2247119)
That's strange, isn't GTM RaceLogic supposed to be an advantage on the 1/4 mile drag ? As far as I understand the main idea with RaceLogic is to put as much power to the ground as possible without loosing the traction. So in theory it should help to achieve better drag times than without it (ofcourse with oem Taction Control system off). Am I wrong?
You are right to a certain extent. BUT, getting traction by killing power will never be as good as sticker tires or better throttle/clutch technique. You have to find that sweet spot for it to work right. Of course this is only for launch. Traction control for the turns can be much better as slower in and fast out will always net faster times.

Mr.Squeeze 04-02-2013 08:54 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mkai0 (Post 2246010)
You bring up a good point Staples. All I know is my Racelogic setup seems to be working flawless with my Aquamist setup.

Staples does bring up a good point I have the direct port meth system just haven't gotten around to putting it in yet. I will test this once I put it in the meth kit.

Mr.Squeeze 04-02-2013 09:27 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Z eliminator (Post 2237053)
Ive used mine at the track 1/4 mile. i tried everything and could not find how to use the launch control. Car lost 2 th's with traction control on , But it ran straight as an arrow.
never spun the tire's (305 35 18 M/T drag radials/
Now on a 7 AT if you try to hold the gas and brake the ECU kill the engine and it will drop rpm and run terrible off the line. If your lucky may be 1700 rpm with out your back wheels braking free on the stock converter, You have to pull the brake fuse. I have a Pro torque 3200 rpm stall converter and i hold the car at 2000 rpm you then mash the gas and let the brake pedal go on the start of the last yellow light. I have a video of this and the car moves at 3200 rpm. I have talked to Sam how to get it to work for i would love to launch at 5000 rpm. He is working on this for me and i hope that he finds a way to make it work. What setting did you set the slip for on the race logic for this . Ive tried ever setting and got really frustrated with it. I removed the race logic and the car ran a 12.50 vs a 12.70. I have not given up on it but it gets a little busy in the car after you leave the burn out box. My car also runs richer A/f when i run the race logic. Driving it on the street is way better than the factory TC. Do you also turn of the factory TC when you run the race logic? When the brake fuse is pulled the factory TC should not work,
im running 12.342 now with out it and i have no traction problems coming off the line 1.80 60 ft times but i do have line lock to heat up the back tire's
Well thats what i found how my car drives with it, Its great in the rain.
I also have 4.08 gears in the car.
If some body figures out how to make it work at the track please let me know
thanks

Z

Z It sounds like you haven't figured out how to use the system correctly. I don't have auto like you I have no problem doing 5000 rpm launches,hopefully with Sams help you can get that figured out.

I can tell you this you have to turn off the factory TC it will kick in before Racelogic. If you was having problems with the system leaving the burnout box just shut if off tell your finish doing your burnout. After your done doing your burnout then turn it back on. This is how I plan on using the system once I take my car to the track. Also this is the main reason I mounted the system right next to me to it's easily accessible.

JMac88 04-02-2013 09:50 PM
I would think the better question would be what amount of combustion would be generated with a 50/50 mix without fuel. Since it cuts a different cylinder everytime, I doubt there would be enough meth in the cylinder to actually effect anything.

I am only familar with meth feeds at the tb's, so with direct port does it only spray a cylinder on induction or is it pre-loading meth the whole time? I would guess that either way there would be to much air in the chamber for it to even ignite. Worst case scenario would be pre-loading the whole time, but without the added cooling of fuel, the cylinder temps/high evaporation rate of the meth there might not even be enough in the chamber to be concerned about.

Someone is going to have to test this, but I would have a hard time seeing this causing any problems. If you guys want, I can send an e-mail to the guys at racelogic and see of they have any experiance with this.

Sent from my SGH-T889V using Tapatalk 2

elperuano 04-02-2013 10:01 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Squeeze (Post 2247831)
Staples does bring up a good point I have the direct port meth system just haven't gotten around to putting it in yet. I will test this once I put it in the meth kit.
You got meth system also??? Wow. Can't wait to see THOSE numbers!

Mr.Squeeze 04-02-2013 10:48 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by elperuano (Post 2247949)
You got meth system also??? Wow. Can't wait to see THOSE numbers!

Yeah I bought the Meth and Racelogic system at the same time. I am waiting for the new GTM turbo manifold that accept the T25 plus turbo housing's and swap to them and add the direct port meth at the same time.


Then shoot for the moon big power is the goal :ughdance:

Mr.Squeeze 04-02-2013 11:42 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigT (Post 2247812)
You are right to a certain extent. BUT, getting traction by killing power will never be as good as sticker tires or better throttle/clutch technique. You have to find that sweet spot for it to work right. Of course this is only for launch. Traction control for the turns can be much better as slower in and fast out will always net faster times.


Of course sticker tires would always be best for traction,but in car on the street without sticky track tires is where the system shines. You also have to remember the system can be adjusted to where it barley interferes to the point where its like its not even there.As you have pointed out you have to find that sweet spot and you can also use throttle control/ technique with it I know I do.



For a car like mine it's a big plus there is no boost by gear or timing by gear that can control traction and power like the GTR's have.

Z eliminator 04-03-2013 07:26 AM
I do turn off the factory TC and i also have the brake fuse pulled.
Can any body send me the specs that they have on the unit. Like rpm cut backs ect.
And for some strange reason my car runs richer A/F ratios when i run the race logic down the track.
I emailed race logic and they told me that the unit will not work on 7 AT's for launch control.
But every thing else will work fine , Sam is working on this for me, as he thinks that he can make it work. Currently he is testing it on a 7 AT.
Z


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