That number is more like $15-20k if you plan to do it correctly.

:iagree:

Install and a quality tune are the most important things when boosting a car that came NA from the factory.

I've got plenty of experience modifying cars, just not 370s which is why I asked for insight from the community. I don't want to boost the car if the driveline is fragile. I love the 370z. Super fun car, but more power is always welcome if it can be done without affecting reliability or forcing me to change the way I drive my car.

I will also add that boost will not be the 1st thing to destroy your car it will be denotation. A bad tune on a great kit & perfect supporting mods will destroy your car faster than anything.
Additionally, we have people who are putting hard miles on their cars with high power.

DJTodd: Link Is a track ready car with a twin turbo kit making some great strides
Phunk: Link Over 60k miles on a twin turbo kit and e85 who was pushing the 1/4 mile limits, what broke the car was the clutch/CSC at the drag strip.
My own car was at 70k miles with boost when my SC seized from a fluid leak and the rest of the car was running great. Engine is still fine even after this event, so now has given me my reason for upgrades!!

I can keep going on more cars from Fast Intentions, AAM, even GTM kits are still running strong on many cars, BP's kits are doing well. It comes down to going in with the right mindset and money.

There is always the chance that something can go wrong, however a lot of us have had nothing but positive experiences. Stay up on your fluid changes and you should be good to go. My car doesn't leave the garage for anything but "spirited" runs :driving:

Do you have experience boosting a NA car? That's probably the key experience you would want.. As mentioned, a number of people are going strong on FI, and those that have had problems are typically due to the tune.

The Z bones are fairly strong. 7AT is pretty much the weak point; 6MT less so but still needs new CSC and clutch to handle FI. Motor is pretty stout to a certain point. A lot of the supporting mods are for cooling purposes. The Z likes to run hot even when NA, so it's important that cooling is a priority when boosting.

Like I said before, "it's a gamble". That's why I suggested not to DD your boosted VQ. I have about 15k boosted, and 5 to 6k hard miles. Had 0 issues, but that's not say I won't ever have issues. Could blow the engine, trans, or what ever else next week.

Driving hard 24/7 isn't ideal for any weekend warrior, must less for a DD. You have to have a contingency plan. I would call Z1 or what ever shop you feel comfortable with for a quote on a engine built, trans, rear end, and what ever else you think make break.
Have that savings stacked up that way if something blows you can get it fixed ASAP.

Just like that G37 I told some people around in a different thread. He made a TT VQ a DD and blew the trans 2 weeks later. Making 40 to 140mhp pulls, which the new owner had no one to blame but himself. 4k in trans work just like that, nothing you can do.

If you going to beat up a DD boosted VQ, I suggest running it at a passive 6 psi. Which what Im going to do when I start tracking it. Yes you will have less power, yes other people will be fast, but at least you have less chance in spending 20K plus in repairs, and to me that's a much better win than beating the person next you.

This :iagree:
Boost it.. Drive the hell out of it.. If it breaks fix it..

:iagree:
Bad tunes on good fuel :eek:
Good tune on bad fuel :eek:

Good tune on good fuel :ugh2: (things can still go wrong)

Make sure your tune is done right that's everything.;)

6mt???

Over build the motor (pistons/rings/rods/bearings), over build the clutch, only boost up to 80% capacity, make sure boost is in the turbo's sweet spot, get a GOOD tune to always make sure the a/f ratio is on point, program the tune to activate limp mode as soon as any safety parameters are breached and you will have a long lasting reliable motor

Get boost, wideband, water/oil temp and oil pressure gauges

auto with badly needed shift kit.

or just running it with a passive 6 PSI 80% of the time.....:icon18:

My one disagreement is to not build the motor. With how well our engines are holding up in the 400-600whp range you would be taking on more risk with a built motor that could open up a huge can of worms.
Now if they want to go the route of others on here for 700-900whp then yes get that sucker built!

700-900whp is un-usable. 12PSI tune on stock all anyone can truly use. Haven't seen any 1/4 times worth talking about with 700-900whp.