SC requirements, for GTM, are as followed.
Belt, SC fluid, SC filter, intake filter every 50,000 miles

I snapped a belt at 25,000 miles and just passed 50,000 miles overall with my SC kit and doing all the above including the belt again (already has cracks). After this change over I will be dropping my interval down to 25-30k miles instead. Overall the materials will run you $250-300 and can mostly be done yourself or a good shop can do it in a couple hours tops.

Stillen SC is fluid at 2,500 the first time then 7,500 after that. I'm not sure about the belt.

Thanks. Definitely helps my decision

awesome thread!!!

Let me ask this question as I am a noobie and been doing a lot of research. I don't own a Z yet but I pre plan builds before buying my car. With this said, I plan to autocross with the car a lot and I also do love a nice straightway get up and go. I've been doing a lot of reading on these threads but I still never get a clear answer.

So for a 60/40 interest split. 60 being autocross and 40 straightway speed. What is the best option in terms of FI. I know TT is the better in terms of Turbo for what I want but I never see too many people factor in super chargers. What are they best for?

From what I've read here, when you install a turbo kit without BOOST CONTROLLER you can only have like 6psi but when you get one installed you may go like 10psi or further… is this right?

.

No. Boost pressure is based on the wastegate spring you are running. You can have either internal or external wastegates. I'm going to ignore internal because I don't like them, and I'm running external. Your external wastegates are going to come with a bunch of different springs that you can mix and match to get you to the desired boost level. A boost controller allows you to run a set additional amount of boost on top of the wastegate level. As for how much additional you can run it varies depending on if you have a manual or electronic boost control. All the electronic boost controllers I know of limit you to adding 100% of wastegate pressure, so if you have a 6lb spring the max you can run with boost control would be 12lbs. I've never run a manual but I don't believe they have the same restriction.

Updated a few things, GTM items have all been moved to an 'out of business' section but details are still available.

If there are new details people would like added please share.

Edit: Also added AAM's kit as I realized I never put all the details for them in this thread.

Does boost break parts often?
 

Just curious what everyday hard driving would do to reliability when boosted. Like transmission, rear end, driveshaft, ect. Can you still drive the car hard or is it going to pop something when you turn the boost up? :driving::tiphat:

All depends on power level. The OEM drivetrain seems to be able to handle normal boosted (~500-600whp with proper fuel and tuning) without any major issues. It's likely that, from 'hard' driving, it's the motor that is likely to let go first.

My tuner did blow out a rear diff but it was on an E85 tune with over 600whp and coilover/chamber settings to make it hook-up.

Things can still break as you are talking about boosting a factory NA car, but this platform has shown it likes boost:tup:

I have about 5k miles of hard driving on mine with no issues except that my face hurts from smiling so much.

:iagree:

I'm at about that many miles and mine is a garage toy. It only comes out when it's time to play.

Thanks for the info. I want to boost. Nothing crazy maybe 500 rwhp, but I was worried about the car grenading if I wanted to do some spirited driving on a road trip. :tiphat:

Do your research and buy a good kit. Have it installed by a good shop and make sure you have a quality tune. If you do that then it should be reasonably reliable.

But always keep an 'oh shit' fund handy as you boost a NA car and you are always playing with fire.

Boosted cars seem to go boom earlier for people that don't really know what they're getting into. I'm going to guess by your questions, that you have no intentions of DIYing this project and haven't boosted a car before. Don't cut corners with your shop. Be prepared to throw $10K at least into the project and have enough funds set aside for when something does go wrong. Proper maintenance and regular inspection of whatever FI system you choose is extremely important.

Fast Intentions makes some good points in a thread specifically regarding maintenance and longevity of their TT kit. There are a number of other threads (including ones stickied in the FI section) that you should read up on before moving forward.

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ml#post3190597