SAE or STD? I'm only like 400 ft above sea level so shouldn't be much of a diff, maybe a few hp.

Attachment 102307

It was STD and I gave slightly wrong numbers, it was 418/311.

Wow, did realize you went quite that far with the cooling. Understandable. We have done similar mods on NA track 370's out here.

On 91 octane you'll have here in Cali I would stay away from the 9 lb pulley. For the 93 octane guys it is still risky but at least they have the octane to work with. We don't have that here in Cali (unless you're planning on running Water/Meth or Higher Octane Fuel all the time).

Shoot me a PM sometime. We can chat about the kit more.

The standard kit is very reliable and I know how to set up the cars to have sufficient cooling for whatever you will be doing (Heavy Track Duty is tough but I have guys doing pretty much everything these days). We can also install the kit and do a customer CARB legal tune for you here at STILLEN.

The best numbers we have seen out of a 7AT locally is 436 whp on a stock kit with STILLEN Exhaust. Typical is in the 410 whp range though (Numbers also depend on how hot it is that day). Torque is usually in the 285-300 lb-ft range.

It took a lot but it's working great!
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That fan setup is sweet for your oil cooler!

Thanks, it works great with the Stillen bumper.

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that's awesome man, great idea!

kudos.

Everyone I talk to says it doesn't make sense for the SC to make less power with headers/test pipes unless the SC unit can't push enough air which they say shouldn't be the case with the vortech unit in the kit. It has been suggested to me that Stillen's stance might be based off of their CARB approval and not being able to endorse race applications because of it.

Are there any independent customer dynos to confirm this claim of lower power with headers/TPs?

Mark has said he didn't save any dyno to show them compared but I can tell you he is the guy I call for everything about the kit. He has even taken my calls from the pits at Sebring on Saturdays. I have about everything they sell on my car and he told me it wouldn't help, I don't get it either but there has to be a reason he didn't sell them to me. If you don't even have the kit yet what is the rush to molest it before you have even driven the car with it? Don't take that meanly, I'm just curious.


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I already have LTHs on the car so it would be extra cost to put the stock cats back one if I did the kit, though I sort of want to be quieter anyway.

Oh ok I can understand that. You should call Mark, he's a good guy.


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I"m trying to get all the info I can about various options so I can plan what to do once without having to go back and change things too much and also to not spend any extra money unnecessarily.

Mark, is it enough WHP to make it worth going back to stock cats?


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Anyone see thread on MYG37 about the poor guy that lost his motor on a custom tune from Stillen?

"It was a stock kit with GTR injectors tuned at stillen. I got it tuned there for reliability, The engine had 29,000 miles on it, got 3,000 out of the supercharger."

That sucks but we all play with fire boosting a NA motor. Sometimes you get burned. Every dyno pull made on my car I'm nervous it might let go.

I hear yea man, Guess he said it leaned out and tossed a rod. :(

There are several customers who have proven this. I don't think I have the dyno sheets, but several reputable forum members have proven you lose 10-20 whp when going away from stock cats.

It has nothing to do with the flow. You have to understand the valve timing of the VQ37 and how VVEL works. We only have so much control of the valve timing and overlap. There is still some valve overlap that lets some of the boost escape into the exhaust during the intake cycle. The backpressure from the Cats actually helps keep some of the boost in the cylinder which makes more power (though headers and test pipes are more efficient at moving the exhaust gases, the loss in boost pressure in the cylinders results in less power).

It is usually a ~20 whp difference (I have seen as little as 12 whp from HFC's over test pipes). I don't have any dyno sheets from someone running long tube headers with the kit. That might end up being a wash because of how much more efficient long tubes can be. I don't have a lot of experience with the long tubes on a VQ37 (stupid CARB) so I can't say for sure what the results would be.

I did see that. Hoping we can get more info so we can figure out what happened. I've never seen a motor get blown from standard kit with no crazy mods. Only thing different on that car are the GTR 570cc injectors (I think that's right) VS the normal 600cc injectors. There are always other potential causes for lean conditions (not saying any of these actually happened). Someone could have put non 91 octane gas in which could cause that issue, but the knock sensors should have pulled timing pretty fast, Could have been a vacuum leak post MAF + pre blower, etc.

I have never seen a Rod Thrown from lean conditions. Usually it has to do with oiling or over revving. I am trying to work with him to help figure out what happened.

^^^ Lean will burn a piston or ring. It must have been a crappy stock rod. Happens.

Team Stillen, sent you a PM. Having issues with my set up.

Still love to see some E85 results, I was gunna pull the pin couple months ago but ended up needing the funds for other stuff, so didn't get to do it :(

PM'd you back.

One thing I found out is this owner bought a Salvage G37. The car was a bit jacked up before the kit went on. I wouldn't be surprised if that contributed to it.

Yes his car was a salvaged title, but he did beat the crap out of it here in San Diego. He did just drive across the country to Maryland where it blew, it could be because of the climate difference between here and there. Who knows it seems like he's intent on selling the kit and just staying N/A now.

The climate really shouldn't have had anything to do with it throwing a rod. You can consult other tuners, but you'd be hard pressed to find any that will say a lean condition will cause a rod to get thrown. That is usually due to over revving (from a miss-shift, removal of rev limiter/fuel cut, etc). If he blew a ring landing or piston ring I might say that a lean condition was the culprit.

I Disagree, if your rings go, allowing the piston to chatter, hit the cylinder walls etc. This causes the piston to shatter, pin let go etc.. once theres no piston, that rod will go through the block. Seen this on many different motors. Common problem. So yes, lean conditions can throw a rod.

I understand what you are saying, but I would consider that piston failure. The rod getting thrown would be a later effect. How long would it take for the piston to chatter enough to shatter and then cause a thrown rod? I've had piston chatter before than it is very noticeable longer before the piston fails.

Maybe you're just disagreeing for arguments sake.

At high rpm and heavy load, if the rings let go, the piston will follow.
followed by a rod, this can all happen in half a second.

No , not for argument sake, First hand experience in this issue.

I have read that there's a lot of cutting up and altering things in the engine bay to install this SC and that it is rather difficult to go back to stock. Any input on this? I wouldn't plan to go back to stock, but you never know and cutting stuff up makes me a bit concerned.

Not true, I had zero piston chatter, mine went from no noise right to rod knock, and mine tossed out in reverse and it was at idle backing up.

the install is far from "bolt-on" as described, take that part with a small tiny grain of salt.

There is certainly cutting to be done, most are minor things, not sure about going back to stock, never thought about it. There's also bending of pipes etc.. to be done to get clearance.

if you are even thinking about going back to stock at ANY time, grab yourself the BP turbo kit and save the time.

Also if you have had faster cars in the past, the power will be fine for a few months and you'll want more, much harder to get more power out of this kit than a turbo kit.

The kit however has quality products and is put together well, daily driving the Z with this kit is no problems at all, drives like a stock vehicle until you put the foot down then turns into a different beast.

Agreed with Mikey, I went back to stock pretty easily, I keep all the stock parts and fueling. You do that you'll be fine. After the power comes EH Don't mod it for more WHP. The motor wont last. ;/

This is dead on, Get the BP kit.. I regret going with stillen. but then again bp wasn't around when I was on the market for boost.

If I was to go turbo, it would be the Fast Intentions kit.

The drawbacks of turbo vs SC for me are:
1. no CARB sticker

2. Much higher cost, I have a 7at so tranny upgrade is needed also

3. turbos are much more complicated meaning a lot more potential for small things to go wrong or get loose, etc. which means more maintenance (I am a novice who doesn't know much about this stuff so it would be to the shop for me)

4. I have never driven a boosted car, but am told that until I am pressing the throttle down pretty hard, no boost will be made which means I will only be getting the power when I am accelerating hard whereas with SC, I am always getting some boost at all levels.

Not quite. You'll still get boost at partial throttle. It's actually a challenge to keep a turbo car out of boost. You'll likely get more boost at partial throttle than with a sc setup.

:iagree:

Exactly, with a centrifigual SC such as GTM or Stillen the blower has to spin up like a turbo to provide boost and does around 2500-3000 RPMs (slightly different per kit). Now if someone produced a roots blower for the VQ then yes you would have boost at anything over idle as it instantly builds.

So that leaves concerns 1 through 3...especially 3. Everyone tells me that if I go turbo, I should be ready to have some downtime periodically when something eventually breaks or comes loose, etc.

1) That is Cali so either stay under the radar or avoid boost

2) Higher cost can even come with the SC & 7AT depending on how much power you push through the system, really it comes down to TQ and the higher gears that fail.

3) Things can go wrong, but a quality install and checking the kit during routine maintenance will keep it up & running well. Say during an oil change you need to poke around and check clamps, bolts, etc. Also, having a daily driver is a huge plus because if the car needs to go in for a few days you have a back up ready to go.

1) I know, but it only takes being unlucky once, and I'm afraid boost will be addicting and hard to stay off of

2) I believe the 7at should hold up fine with the Stillen kit since it's only going to make around 300 trq, even not counting the tranny upgrade, there's substantially higher costs

3) My concern is that not being mechanically knowledgeable car-wise, I'm not going to know what and how to check. Also, can someone tell me the maintenance differences between the 2? From what I understand, for the SC, it's just replacing the fluid once in a while.