If the kit is that prone to heat soak I'd look into meth injection. Heat is bad and if your car can't pull enough timing to combat it you may have a detonation problem on your hands.

Thinking too much about boost pressure can sometimes be misleading.

Airflow. :ugh2:

Maybe tuners need to play with cam timing..

I don't have any Dyno Sheets saved from tests. I know there are a couple posted around the forums. Don't get me wrong, you can still make good power with test pipes. However, you will make more with the stock cats provided everything less it tuned properly. Now we haven't tested this with all the different cat-back exhausts out there and it is possible that some exhausts paired with test pipes would do better than the stock cats, but I can't say for sure.

1. Date of install 2011
2. Model year of car 2009
3. Model of car G37 vs 370Z Z
4. Problems at install Yes, no way to get even torque spec on intake bolts; even with 20 bends in the wrench
5. Late problems - including mileage at which they occurred and nature of problem Leaks, Intake casing + pressure making it difficult to get baseline to tune from
6. Stillen's actions relevant to warranty No action, made me sign waver and pay by money order for replacement parts (PITA) took for ever. Didn't want to discuss my build at all, sale new nothing about the kit; i kept getting refereed to a mechanic to identify replacement parts in the kit, didn't call back, i had to call until i got an answer.
7. Upgrades and modifications to the kit - including modifying the UpRev tune COG's, 928 Impeller, 25mm BOV, 650 Injectors, 1/2 gallon water res, CJM fuel Return, Grounding Kit for fuel pump, AN12 fittings larger feed and return lines
8. Max HP achieved - and how - UpRev tune, increased PSI (smaller diameter pulley), etc. 11 PSI, 510hp, then 12 PSI, blew out rings
9. Additional mods - Exhaust, clutch, etc FI Carbon Fiber, ARC Resonated test pipes, 7AT raise line pressure for quicker shifting10. Current miles on kit Sold it, kept leaking under the manifold.
11. Would like to know the max HP any one has achieved with the Stillen Kit 510 to 490 to 430 Sold
12. Most miles anyone has achieved with the kit.

You had to sign a waiver because the kit was modded?

Once you modify the kit past what we have designed we will not warranty or support it because we have not tested/approved what someone might do with the kit. At that point we cannot warranty an issue that could have been caused by a modification. Think like upgraded heat exchangers, Blow Off Valves, Couplers, etc won't affect a warranty because they don't mechanically effect the kit in a stressful way. Upping the boost, custom tunes, different MAF's, altering the intake piping, etc are all things that the kit was not originally designed for. Even if it works, we have to tested it to the point where we recommend it, so we do not support it. Hope that helps.

The stillen kit will eat up rings quick on higher boost

The kit design is very poor, Your motor never really gets the proper IAT temp readings.
They're using a pull through maf system, which our mafs are designed for push through
the heat soak is unreal, But expected on a Air/water setup.

We're working on the Air/air right now, with a Cog setup and impeller, 3" intake pipe before blower, 320 pump, 850cc injectors, it should hit the 500whp mark, and be able to maintain it.

Awesome so when you need an idler pulley because you bought a used kit Stillen wont support you with out the hassle of a waver and money order so they can't be held liable for your missing part for the previous owner..

Great F_ _ _ ing way to support the car community. Your business model rocks, good luck with that !!!!

:shakes head:

When I originally started thinking FI. I called Stillen and GTM to discuss their kits options. The technical guy I talked to at Stillen told me they highly recommended me getting a professional dyno tune since all cars were different and that was the only way to get the most out of their kit. Funny to hear a couple years later that following their recommendation would have void their warranty.

The kit work very well if it's used the way it was intended, I have close to 20,000 hard miles on mine. If you go buy a new Z and do a LS swap Nissan isn't going to cover it, how is this any different? What product can you buy and alter that the manufacturer will still cover?

I think the point made earlier was that the kit required modification in order to run properly, which in turn voided the warranty.

It was always that way :/ When I bought my kit 3 years ago they REFUSED me to get a custom tune even if they picked the tuner :/..

They have said they have made changes to their tunes since then but at that time the SC kit and tune made a WHOPPING 342 WHP :ugh2: I whole 42 more WHP than my bolt ons and for only $9600 :confused:

I don't think you understand what I was saying. I was simply speaking about new kits and why we don't warranty custom work.

We are more than happy to support the community when used kits are purchased. In my time here we have never required money orders or wire transfers for these parts. We asked for pictures of the kits so we know what they need and what you actually have (which people who haven't actually purchased used kits get upset about). We actually advise we go over the parts when a used kit is purchased because there are usually a lot of parts that are missing. Yes, it takes time and we can't give you a quote in 3 minutes for these requests, but we really do try to help.

Also, a lot of these comments and experiences are from years ago. Things do change and we are trying to support the community and provide people with a safe and reliable modding experience.

Mr. Team Stillen,
I am sorry for my ranting in the prior post. I shouldn't have acted that way. It's not you that i was dealing with in California.

It was a very frustrating time trying to get the kit running and walking into walls that took weeks to get through. Stillen cost me a lot of extra money with there BS as my car is a daily driver.

The kit is a very well engineered kit and does exactly what it is supposed to. It's guy's like us that wanted more out of it that have issues. It is nice to see Stillen back on the forum as they were absent for the last 3 years.

So it looks like we are headed in a good direction with new blood to support a company that hasn't gone bankrupt. I will say after i filed a Better Business Bureau complaint I finally got service but still was hassled with money order and a second waiver for the idler pulley spacer. If that is not the case now, then you guy's are good to go.

Hopefully change is coming !!!! :tiphat:

Which specific sized frozenboost heta exchanger are people using and doe sit fit without modification?

Also, will my 25 row oil cooler be enough or do I probably need a 34 row?

This is the one most people are using including me but if you have a oil and trans cooler it is going to be hard to fit it in the stock bumper.


Air to Water Heat Exchanger

Hard as in things will need to be modified or just a tricky game of Tetris?

Also how hard is it to change the pulley once the kit is installed?

The hear exchanger isn't that hard the crash bar you'll have to reinstall upside down, LOL,

If you like driving the car leave the pulley alone. Anything over 9 PSI, people have had issue, Lost motors. :/.

most of it has to do with the MAF locations on the kit, theres info on here and I'm one of the unlucky ones who lost their motor. :icon14:

You'll have to cut quite a lot off the back of the standard front bar to make it fit.

to fit also need to flip the crashbar upside down unless you want to cut the tow hook off (even flipping upside down makes the tow hook unusable).

Stillen supercharger long term reports
 

We cut the tow hook off mine and left the plate to bolt a tow strap to. I stuck the strap up in the bumper and stuck a zip tie around it so I can pull it out if needed.

If you track the car at all you also have to worry about stacking all these coolers I front of the radiator because of all the heat transferring to the radiator. If you don't do any tracking/real hard driving it probably will not be a problem.


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things seem to be getting complicated, so in summary

The included cooling isn't good enough so the Frozenboost heat exchanger is recommended. However, using this will not work with the existing tow hook and will also some troubles fitting with tanny/oil coolers which might make this not as good at cooling.

Yep that about sums it up but like I said if you don't track the car you probably will not have problems with the radiator cooling. It took me over a year to get the cooling right on the track but had no problem on the street. I also tracked my car many times with the cooler Stillen sends with the kit without any trouble.


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Okay, so the main concern is the tow hook. Also, to clarify, the general consensus is that the 9lb pulley is pretty safe as long as you don't do the impeller along with it right?

my friend, not a Z owner, but a general car guy, says that if I upgrade the pulley, I will probably need to upgrade fuel which would mean a fuel pressure regulator which would be a big smog red flag ( i know any upgrades will technically void CARB, but was hoping things would be undercover enough to still pass) Any one know anything about this? I was under the impression that the 9lb pulley could be used without any other changes (except the heat exchanger).

Upgrading fuel, assuming there's no more head room on the system that comes with the kit, would require injector and fuel pump upgrade. Both items are internal and not visible.

Would I be able to keep the tow hook with the frozen-boost heat exchanger if I got a fast intentions crash bar?

I don't have Fast Intentions crash bar but i believe you can keep the tow hook with it.

I don't think anyone has an answer to that cuz it hasn't been tried

I flipped my crash bar, so the tow hook is not useable anymore.

but when I had my car towed on a flat bed, we hooked 2 straps up to the lower control arms, and pulled it up.

I'll probably spring for the FI crash bar. But it's a general consensus that the kit is pretty safe with the 9lb pulley if that's the only upgrade you do? Or should I really stick to the 8lb one that comes with it?

If it's worth the risk to you go for it but understand you are taking a risk.


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Okay, so if I want to be safe, stick tot he 8lb pulley. Is the stock cooling really terrible and useless even if the kit is kept completely stock? (with a custom tune of course). Just want to confirm that even running the stock pulleys and everything, I should still get the frozen boost heat exchanger. I just do normal spirited driving and possibly the occasional novice track day.

I ran the kit stock for over a year and the only problem on the street was high oil/water temps in the heat of summer and even then the only times it got out of control was when the car was running and sitting in traffic. The track is a different story, it has taken 1 1/2 years to get all of the cooling under control. It only took adding a vented hood, oil cooler, 7AT cooler, frozen boost cooler, CSF triple pass radiator(not really for the 7AT but I used it anyway), Stillen front bumper, deleting the windshield washer fluid tank, adding fans, venting the wheel well liners and lots of moving parts around.

Did you read this thread?

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ggestions.html

Thanks, I'll read up on it. I am just checking if I need the Frozenboost or not since I would do the FI crash bar if I did to retain the tow hook. That's all extra cost that I will do if I need to, but if I don't...

Did you have the oil and tranny cooler during that first year with the stock cooling and street driving?

All these little things make me a little hesitant to do it. I want the car to be solid and reliable without any issues that I can confidently take for a long road trip without worries. It's too bad the GTM sc kit isn't CARB and that GTM is a shady business I can't support (if they are even still around)

I did oil and trans coolers before the SC. Road trips are no problem and for street driving I don't think the frozen boost cooler is needed. I tracked mine hard with the stock cooler and never had trouble.


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Okay, so the stock kit is good enough for normal spirited driving/canyons carving and possibly the occasional beginner track duty. What are you 7AT guys getting with the stock kit, about 400whp 300wtrq?

418/312 but I'm at sea level.


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