I dont have a pic at the moment but think of a u shaped piece of paper ruffly that size. the problem I had was my kit did not have the shield. I would then have problems where my car would go into a limp mode of sorts. I would be driving fine around 65 or so and as soon as I would slow down and my rpms drop under 3k I would not be able to go above 3k like a valet mode of sorts. would have to shut the car down for 30 seconds and restart. It would also throw multiple misfire codes and banks to rich on the dash. I was finally able to dignose it when doing the retune with their high speed fan and it would have the MAF jumping all over the place if the car was not under load but under load it was fine. we placed a box in front of the filters and it solved the problem, so I came up with this air box and have never had a problem. gets pleanty of air when it needs it and no direct airflow when it doesnt.

good idea with the high speed fan...question (and maybe a silly one), did you have the bumper on or off when testing with the fan?

also, can you maybe draw a picture just so we can get an idea of the size and placement?

the bumper was on and this was with the stock bumper not the one I have now. as far as a pic of it think of a piece of paper. fold it 3 inches from the top, then fold it again 5 inches from the first fold, hold it up and you should have a U shape. (not exact numbers just an example) take it and slide it up the front side of the crash bar and this is where you are going to attach it. the back is just free. the sides are left open to allow air to be sucked in when needed. Place it so the bottom covers the bottom of the first filter this is where I assume the problem is because it gets the most direct air flow. the top of the filters do not need to be covered since they have the plastic tops that will deflect any direct air. as long as the bottom covers the bottom of the filters it will work. Once I take the bumper off in the next couple of weeks I will post a pic.

Yea will need a pic. The problem is that the shroud that i have on mine sounds a lot like what you are describing, yet i still have the issue. So i need to compare the dimensions and placement of the two.

Right, sounds like just a larger shroud. Less turbulence altogether.
I think the real problem probably relates to the MAF's being out in front of the radiator and a larger shroud being required to further dampen turbulence at least at the MAF's.

I wonder if the different types of noses on these cars will make differences in the MAF performance?
It sounds like the shroud just deflects forced air from hitting the filters, mainly the bottom one and forces the SC to suck calm air.

As I understand from my communication with Stillen, reducing turbulence at the filter is only important as it may reduce turbulence at the MAF's. If you look closely at the kit the distance from the filter attachments to the MAF slots is less than 2 inches. I believe this set up is unique in the world of 370Z CAI's.

When my car ran without the shroud it would stall on decel (clutch in or in neutral) - every time. The shroud stopped the stalling but now there is this driveability problem. Of note the included Stillen shroud does not fit on the 2013 model (sport touring) so it had to be heavily modified.

I think I will have to do some work this weekend and make a much larger shroud to completely shield the filters and MAF's.

Possible to just make the inlet tube longer before the MAF?

You could also insert a honeycomb air straightener..

So, the shop where i take my car had actually suggested modifying this configuration to increase that distance between the filters and the maf's. But i haven't talked to them about the whole shroud conversation yet.

Call these guys and order some straighteners cut to the diameter of the inlet pipes. Install (with epoxy) directly before the MAFs. That flutter will go away.

Honeycomb for MAF

oh wow, you might just be on to something there!! And it's cheap...now just to figure out the thickness to use???

the honeycomb may be the ticket to get the air going through the tubes right but I still believe blocking direct air especially to the lower filter is the real fix otherwise you will always have the lower MAF reading higher than the upper even though it will always be the same going into the engine.

Guys in blow-through setups like to use the higher ratios, but I think 5:1 should be fine for what you guys are trying to do.

I plan on putting some 4:1 or 5:1's in my intakes when I rebuild them. Should clean up the idle.

IAT sensor is only utilized on one bank anyway, and the S/C itself equalizes the real temps... So yeah. Non-issue.