I wonder if replacing the MAF with speed density would allow for a better/safer tune so that 500 whp could be sustainable on the track

Yes , you will need lots of mods to keep temps under control if you want to track it.


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Ok, I am officially in the "starting to hate the SC setup" camp. I was driving down the road and the P0113 code popped up. Will not clear. I am now hearing it may be the wiring tothe MAF sensors. It is making me hate this car. I think I made a tremendous mistake adding the SC. I may get it squared away this time and if it screws up again I will return it to NA with the CAIs only. There should not be this many issues with a system that is supposed to be squared away.

No. 9psi pulley and Si trim. So maxed out. Probably will go with smaller pulley still.

[QUOTE=ANMVQ;3231521]Maybe 480has nothing to do with how WHP @ 13 PSI and E85. I made 457 at 12 PSI on knowingmp, BUt better have a built motor and some other add ons if you want that much power from it. :/ Stock trim it wont make it safely[/ecripUOTE]

Buillt motor isnt needed. It has nothing to do with how strong the bottom end is. Its all in the car knowing what is going on. With the pull through mafs it is confused. Add the stupid amount of heat from the original design and you have a recipe for disaster. It wouldnt matter if you bought the strongest internals possible.

[QUOTE=TopgunZ;3232006]I would still think it is , But what you are doing will help with a lot of it, We both know the MAF design is wrong , and the small wrongly placed heat exchanger doesn't help. Can't wait to see how this turns out :driving:

Get a cheap maf cleaning kit, and clean your mafs first.
Pull off your filters and make sure there isn't dirt or anything trapped in some parts of it.
Clean the filters as necessary.
Know anybody with a working MAF? Try swapping it in one at a time to see if it fixes it.
Try swapping both MAFs.
Then I'd move onto looking at wiring. Wiring is far less likely than sensors.

Not the same code, but my Z kept seeing P1239 from time to time. This code would put the Z into limp mode, turn off back on and all good for a Day or Two. Code then started to show itself more frequent so after some research narrowed it to the jumper cable for the T/B and MAF sensors. Mark from Stillen got a new set shipped over, changed out and have been code free since.

[QUOTE=ANMVQ;3232317]Help me understand why a built motor is needed. This stock block is holding 600+ whp with no problem, if the tune is good. The stillen kit will never be a torque monster and never exceed what the oem internals can handle. Lets just say you could hit 600whp with this kit. As long as the intake temps are reasonable then it should still be able to handle this blower.

I received my front mount and a few parts to the kit. I would love to find time this weekend to play around with it but its my last weekend before I get married and I have a ton of stuff to take care of.

[QUOTE=TopgunZ;3232637]You're right. In theory compared to the turbo crowd doing 600+ whp stock block, the supercharger route should be able to do 700+ whp with the lower torque. How reliably it can do that and for how long is the question. Track duty on 600 whp for extended periods of time I don't see happening, but 550 from a supercharger shouldn't be an issue.

Congrats on the wedding! :tup: I'm getting married next year. That stuff is expensive man, I put off all car mods and this season of racing to stock up money...

[QUOTE=TopgunZ;3232637]Just because the turbo guys are making 600 WHP on a stock block doesn't mean you can do that on a SC. The SC will require you run more boost (PSI) to achieve the same WHP. The Turbo guys are making 600 WHP on what 11 PSI? I was at 12 PSI and was making under 460 WHP. I PSI more 140 less WHP. The SC has more of drag because it spins off the motor( I know you know this) But to make 600 WHP on the SC you going to need to run close to 18 PSI. 18 PSI on a stock block with 11.1 compression and :icon14:

[QUOTE=ANMVQ;3232718]But I think you were referring to 480whp and 13lbs. I was just using 600 as an arbitrary number. I guess that was confusing. It really just comes down to torque and psi. So if we look at what we will actually see, which is around 450tq max and 14psi on E85, I don't think a built block is necessary at those levels at all. Now if someone can figure out how to spin this to 16-17psi and actually put my built block to the test....Im all ears!

I doubt we will see this though as the cog setup seems disagreeable and nobody has tried the smaller pulley yet. My guess due to belt slip. At least nobody has replied to my question in here of "Why hasn't anyone tried the smaller pulley from vortech yet, the 2.62?""

[QUOTE=TopgunZ;3232954]Agreed with the 450Flbs, Now to spin this at 17-18 PSI. I also have not seen anyone try that pully just the 11 PSI pulley from Stillen but that and the impeller will only get you to 14sih. You need the cod set up and work. There is someone on here was has it working.. ,. ..

There's another thread on here that shows a picture of the heat exchanger pulled out of the intake manifold. That thing isn't going to be able to cool any more than what the stock setup puts out. You know the machined stripes on the top of the intake manifold, where it says Stillen? That's about how big the heat exchanger is. Between everything else you guys pointed out about the MAFs and the non-Frozenboost front mount, add this to the list of reasons why you wouldn't want to push the Stillen kit for more than it was originally designed for.

how noticeable is the SC sound form inside the cabin?

That's what I would also like to know.


-Adalvar

At lower RPM, 2500~ quite noticeable with it's whistle, at higher RPM you can't hear it at all, just exhaust.

I'll try get some videos up on youtube at some stage to give you an idea, last time I tried my gopro only went for 5 minutes and cut off lol..

Would running e85 get some gains with this kit? Also, would it significantly help with temps? I don't really want to vent my hood and fenders and all that. How much cooler does e85 burn?

Absolutely! Ethanols thermal heat of latency (ability to remove heat) is 3X greater than that of gasoline. It will run much cooler, netting power, and its resistance to pre-det is insane.

Lets put it this way. My buddies supra has an E85 tune and a 91 octane tune. He makes 650whp on his E tune and only 500 on his 91.

You will pick up a good 20whp out of that kit and it will be much safer. You will however need bigger injectors and a 340lph pump.

And the smell of burnt E85 is like rum. Delicious. :happydance:

As TopgunZ said, the thermal heat of latency is far greater than that of gasoline and has a high octane rating. This also allows you to run much more advanced timing without risking detonation.

Ethanol does have its drawback. It is a lot harding on the fuel system as a whole.

Now that we can tune VVEL with Ecutek, I can probably get more power out of the kit with my LTHs as well.

I have had E85 in my car for over a year and the only thing I seen was the same that Phunk seen in his. There is a bit of black material in the bottom of the pump. I have identified where this comes from and it is not going to hurt anything. Except you might want to change/clean your fuel filter after about a year.

Phunks been on E for over 4 years.

Are you running e85 with this kit?

Yes

What kind of numbers are you putting down? Also, anything we should be aware of that we haven't discussed? Are you running the stock cooler or the Frozen Boost one?

So let me get this strait I can run E85 with just injectors and a 340LP pump? The stock lines seals ,etc are fine. An not saying I'd gain anything being NA just curious

I have never ran this kit yet. I have designed an air to air setup and dyno it on Wednesday. Shooting for 500+whp.

I have a frozen boost cooler for sale if you want to upgrade to that. It would really help with temp control.

Yes. You could pick up about 5whp with timing advancement.

So does your tune still suck? I was going to order one of these kits in the near future but this thread is starting to shy me away from it. I didn't want to have to get a custom tune.

Why would you not want a custom tune? A tune just for your car will always be better than a tune for every car!


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Your going to spend $9k to go FI then not spend another $500 on a tune?

That is the wrong way to do it.

If I do it, it will be with an Ecutek tune. Being able to tune VVEL will probably let me get more power out of the kit with my LTHs. I would also probably do flexfuel for cooling and some more power as well. I believe Ecutek has some safety options as well for detonation to help keep things from going boom.

Is it a good system because i look into this and their good and bad comments or twin turbo is better way to go

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I believe you can get more power out of a twin turbo, but this is a good solid kit that they've put together IMO so far.

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How much boost can u put down with out stressing the motor

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All of these questions are answered in here:

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ion-noobs.html

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ed-builds.html

One more thing to note. If you want to max out on power, TT may be the way to go. The majority of those who have had issues with the Stillen SC kit, have been because they went beyond the stock kit and started swapping pulleys, etc. The kit is ideal when kept as-sold, from everything I've gathered on this forum.

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Noo i dont want to max out the supercharger i just want a lil more power and im pretty sure with this it would be at low 12 high 11 i think on the drag strip

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Maybe he wants to keep his warrant?

Stillen if I read correctly you guys will do a custom tune and keep the warrant if it's don't by you?

you'll NEVER see it on the Stillen kit, you MIGHT pull a high 12. If you want low 12's - High 11's better look at a turbo. Either the BP kit or a Twin, AAM or FI kit

Install the Stilen kit you warranty is VOID!! Been there dine that :/