What did you use to adapt the 6an lines to the transmission? I had a small leak using rubber hose and clamps and I'm thinking about using leftover 6an from my fuel line work.

After talking with a few people today.. including “Zen” who I trust..options are to have a kit sent from ipt or level 10 and have a reputable shop do the work near me or preferably do the vr30 swap and keep my torque no more than 5-550…obviously my engine will be the weak point at that time and will then need to be addressed.

How much power can the stock block handle with a solid transmission? So many factors to consider…

I used the fittings I purchased from Godzilla Race Works. I supplied the hose, cooler core, and other fittings. They have a full kit now though.

https://www.godzillaraceworks.com/37...0z-g37-q50-q60

Nice, I'm NA with only spirited street driving and using the same Hayden core Z1 uses in their kit (purchased elsewhere), rubber lines with oetiker stepless and ABA Awab clamps which are stronger and provide for a better seal than T-bolts and without leaks.

I'm bypassing the OE "cooler" as my current summer trans. temps. are 122*-172* via gauge in the hot line coming from the trans.; therefore, the aftermarket cooler would be fighting the OE cooler heating the fluid to whatever my coolant temp is, typically 175-190* (170* stat.) which is obviously counterproductive.

Be careful not to cool under 122* as OE torque converter lockup is 122*-176*. Outside of this range your fuel mileage will suffer so you definitely want to be within this temp. range on the highway. In winter I have to block some of my cooler to keep temps. above 122*!

Are you using the VR transmission yet or still OE?

That's a nice line kit :yum: and a good solution for those with leaky and/or degrading rubber lines.

Yes I have a VR30 7AT in my car.

What's the issue with 2 oil pan bolts having to come out and stay out to swap in the VR30 trans.? I don't see how any conflicts can happen ahead of the engine to bellhousing mating surface.

Will try and find out this winter. Got the Vr30 trans in a couple months ago, and I ordered the Z1 Black Friday deal for their flex plate.
Need to get a driveshaft and transmission mount bracket next, and finally start working on the car again. (have a few projects lined up: rear brakes, more fueling changes, new seats)

If you don't want to do the simple cut and paint the OE bracket Godzilla has those as well as the driveshafts. Are you 100% sure the Z1 flex plate works with the VR trans.? Some aftermarkets do not for whatever reason.

No, I'm not 100% sure and couldn't find confirmation either, but taking that gamble. At worst, I'll keep using the OEM one and sell the Z1.

Depending your mileage you might want to grab another good condition OEM as they are known to crack. I picked one up on ebay for $65 or so in case my 100k unit is showing stress. I'll probably throw it in anyway since it has 40k less miles and looks pristine.

UPDATE: VR30 transmission swap complete as of 2/17/24. :happydance:

Awesome, I’m fixing to do mine also.

Tell us about the driveshaft and crossmember?

I ordered a shortened shaft from Godzilla Raceworks.

I cut a window in only the crossmember wall to allow the OE mount to stick out the back. I saw a lot of swappers hacking the hell outta the crossmember which is lazy and I feel weakens it. I slotted the cross member to mount holes enough so the crossmember could slide far enough for it to hit the tail shaft to trans. housing mounting bolts. They wound up being 1/4" away but I didn't want to come up short when stabbing the transmission back in and have to start grinding again. I also added large washers to the mount nuts.

I left the mount to cross member nuts loose for easy positioning while reinstalling the transmission.

The only part I swapped into the VR30 trans. from the Z was the TCM, I retained all of the VR30 shift solenoids as (member) Franketier did.

The OE cooler lines need to be lengthened and flared or they'll leak. I highly recommend Awab style clamps and I heat shielded the rubber line extensions.

I also had to lengthen the slot on the rod between the shifter and transmission as there was tension upon assembling and notchiness going into manual mode. Never saw this mentioned anywhere.

While the two lower engine to trans bolts are known to be deleted, the next engine to trans. bolt (under starter) also wouldn't line up for me.

I HIGHLY recommend installing a dipstick tube in your existing Z transmission and checking the fluid level per the manual. Then scribe the dipstick for cold full fluid level and warm full fluid level i.e. 104*-113* per the FSM process to check the fluid at the pan. You must scribe the dipstick as the OE markings were not intended for the Z and are inaccurate. Now you can swap it over to the VR30 transmission as it will make filling and checking levels much easier.

I initially filled the VR30 trans. with 8 qts., started the engine and immediately poured in another qt. while running. I then topped it off using my dipstick warm fluid level scribe in the 104*-114* range. Of course it was rechecked and adjusted after the first drive and will do so on the first few subsequent drives as well.

More info. can be found in post 6319 and 6323 here
http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-g...-only-422.html

Thanks,

So the drive shaft quality is ok in your opinion? $750 is a lot and I can have them made for less. Any vibration? Just not sure what shop is making them for GZ.

And the cross member, we need pics, cause everything I’ve seen so far is a hack.

Definitely go with the less expensive driveshaft if you can. I do have a vibration at 3,000 rpm so I'll be having the shaft balance checked locally. I'll email ya the pic over the weekend at the latest as promised.