Iv never even heard of someone running a 30 shot(s) before. Why do some of you guys say shots? That right there tells me you don't know what your talking about. A 370z will not blow up with a 75, 100, 125, or 150 shot. If I can put a 150 shot on my 350z with a stock block and no tune for over a year and a half, then a 370z will be able to do the exact same thing.
Luigi I would just stop talking if I were you. Why are you trying to give advice if you have no experience with the subject? Stop giving crappy false information. The minimum anyone should ever put on a Z is a 50 shot to make it worthwhile. Even that is almost nothing for the car. Some people on here are seriously retarded

Are you talking about a dry kit?

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I ran 150 wet in a 4V 4.8L no tune just a cam, headers, exhaust, and the nitrous kit. Car ran well put some good numbers up at the track. Over time I blew the valve cover seals. So I ripped everything apart. Pistons were screwed amongst other things. I guess what I'm trying to say is if you want to run nitrous build the motor for it. And it can be a beast! But I honestly think it a poor man's mod. That youngsters go to first because they can not afford to build the motor or go FI. Again this is just my opinion.

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So your pistons were screwed and you fried the piston rings? Did ripped apart everything with the mad scientist?!? LOL sounds too much of FnF 1.

Poor man's mod!?!? So I'm guessing that cars that are built for nitrous, the owners are poor?

Nitrous is a form of force induction, just like turbo and sc. All forms of force induction can be made to be safe if done right and properly. You can run a TT kit all day @7 psi at the waste gate and as long as your tune is good you'll be safe. Same as running a 75 shot etc. There are tons of cars out there that have insane ETs and WHP using nitrous as their main power adder or sub power adder.

It's people who have no business chiming in on nitrous or other forms of information help who have no clue what their talking about that bugs me.

I think I've read about you getting every single TT kit or BP kit around here:rolleyes: For someone to say nitrous is cheaping out on going FI that's the same like someone buying a beluga exhaust because its cheaper than going Fast Intentions or other more recognizable brands.:shakes head:

i know someone who runs 30shot(is it shot or shots? i have always heard it referred to as shots when talking about n2o but i could have misheard it) wet on his G35 along with his supercharger, he gained about 60whp from it and he even runs 2 maps, one for when he is on spray and one when he isnt, and i do have experience running n2o, just not on the Z platform so i dont know how much a bone stock motor with a stock tune can handle, if it can handle 100shot wet on stock everything than great, run that, i still wouldnt recommend someone do that(and i never will, i personally dont think running that much n2o is safe without retuning and getting colder plugs)

im not claiming to be a n2o guru here, but i have my opinions on running it and i dont think my opinions will change(well not easily at least)

i couldnt agree anymore, in fact i would argue that n2o is probably safer in the long run(if its tuned properly of course) than a turbo or supercharger is because you are not spraying 100% of the time unlike a turbo/supercharger where you will always be in boost no matter what so it isnt wearing out your motor as fast


@everyone
im sorry if im spreading misinformation or giving bad advice, i am not too familiar with n2o running on any VQ motor but i am also in the process of learning because i eventually want to get a good n2o setup going on my Z

Dzel thanks for chiming in:tiphat:

I would have to say this is not a poor man's mod. It could get expensive if like you said you had to rip everything apart and rebuild it. I was going to build my motor but after talking to gtm and z1 and other reputable shops they concurred it wasn't worth the money. The motor can handle it. Look at TT kits pushing close to 500whp on a stock block. I was willing to pay to play. I chose to take the road less traveled to show other Z owners other alternatives. The purpose of a forum like this is to bring together people who have a common interest and share ideas and experiences. Every platform is different so what every other person has done on another motor is irrelevant. Most v8's you can slap a 100 or 150 shot w/o tuning and it will be fine. Obviously our car is different so it takes a little finesse to get it right. I am sure everyone here is looking for a way to stand out in their Z and that is exactly what I want to do. 150 wet shot Z

So now your adding that your friend is already FI with nitrous. You failed to mention it earlier. I'm not seeing how he's gaining 60whp from a 30 shot which relates to crank hp not whp. I'm also not sure why someone would need spray on a S/C setup either. It's not like it needs to spool up like a turbo setup which could utilize a nitrous kit. Also, it seems very pointless to run 2 maps with only a 30 shot. Like what is that doing for you at all lol. He won't even feel a 30 shot with a S/C setup. I think you have your story mixed up cus it just doesn't make much sense to me. Who knows, maybe your right... Some people really have no idea what they are doing so that could be the case too lol

i never even mentioned my friend until that post....

and i bolded the points im really responding to, 1. I dont know how he gained 60whp from 30shot of n2o, i saw his dyno graphs though, he made 366whp and 365wtq with the stillen stage 4 supercharger and when he sprayed he made 427whp and 400wtq and 2. why would anyone need n2o set up on a car? why do people install intakes on their cars? why do people install exhaust systems on their cars? there is absolutely no damn need to modify your car because it works just fine stock, so why do it at all?(I think you get the point im making here)

as far as why he runs 2 tunes on his setup is beyond me, i didnt make that decision so ill never know why he decided to do that, and as far as what you are asking me as to how he gained 60whp from 30shot of n2o, ill never know why because its beyond my knowledge
Maybe he gained more because he already has FI, maybe he just got lucky, i have no idea because physics is not my specialty, maybe someone with more knowledge can chime in


now, i dont know if you are doing this on purpose or not, but you are coming off as a troll and really its annoying

Listen to this guy! I'm building the car for the track. The Beluga exhaust is at 2.75 perfect for what I'm shooting for. 3" is overkill i do notwant to go past 600hp. I've built 4 cars 3 of which ran in the 11's. I've been doing this while your daddy was still wiping himself off with the best of you. I have been on all the FI threads for information and to make a good decision on where I'm going with this. You know for a guy that has FNF fever shouldn't you be filing your NOS bottle and looking at your Vin Diesel poster?

Anyway back on topic my point I was trying to make is that some people go with this mod because it's cheaper and never go beyond that. If you notice on my prior post I stated that if your going to go this route do it the right way and build your motor up for it and make some serious hp. When we're at the track and a guy says I have nitrous we just roll or eyes and laugh. If you can be that guy to prove me wrong I'll tip my hat off to you! If JC pulled it off i wouldn't even look his way if he had a pair of double D's on herself.

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Well for 1, he's obviously shooting more than a 30 shot to achieve those numbers. Either that, or he changed out his pulley, added race gas, had a more aggressive tune etc etc on top of what he was spraying to make those numbers.
My point was that its really not needed to have a nitrous kit on a S/C setup because S/C have that low end power unlike turbo setups. Nitrous also has low end power and doesn't respond that well compared to a turbo setup on top end. So what I'm trying to say is why put two low end power adders together? I'm not saying never do it, it's more like its not needed. Two tunes would be needed for setup like that if course, but with the amount he's spraying (supposedly) it makes no sense to even bother having two separate tunes. It's such a low shot that like I said, you won't even feel. Your friend obviously has no idea what he's really doing with his car if he's feeding you that nonsense. I have literally no idea how he made that much tq off a S/C setup either. So either your lying or you don't know what you really saw.

My friend on a 9lb pulley made 400rwhp on 100 and I forget the tq number, but I know it was no where near his hp number. That's on a 07 350z with full bolt ons, Stillen S/C and two custom tunes for pump and race. Your story isn't adding up. You think I'm trolling but yet I'm coming off with valid points as to why I think some of the stuff you are saying is garbage. Iv seen plenty of graphs with S/C setups and yes they vary, but not to that extreme like your claiming. If you think I'm annoying then sucks, cus your going to have to deal with it. I'd rather call someone out on false information then to just let it slide and have everyone believe that they should start out with a 30 shot(s) just cus your buddy did it.

I'm going to have to agree with JC on this one. How is it that you have built so many cars that run in the 11s, but yet you don't understand nitrous and you don't really understand a majority of the turbo kits out for our cars. I mean, just some of your posts you come off as not knowing what anything does, works, or how to install something. If you have built so many "fast" cars, than installing a TT setup in your driveway should be a piece of cake since you are so experienced. My 350z was a low 12 second car and that was when I was 18 and I'm 21 now. You have a build thread right? I want to see how you go about installing your TT kit. I might need tips from a pro

I'm not a pro by any right. These cars are so different from say a Ford Mach 1. I'm no stranger from turning a wrench but I have never gone FI this is my first and my first "tuner". So I'll give you that no I didn't know about turbine housings and the different sizes and benefits of each, or how a boost controller works, even the differences in the gains in between a single and a twin. This is the reason why I ask so many questions. I want to make sure I know what I'm getting into. The Mach I had is the one with the nitrous set up. I ruined that motor and miss that car terribly. I'm giving the OP some heads up and going he knows what he's getting into. Remember even geniuses ask questions. And to answer your question on my build thread it's coming. Now if I install it myself or not is the question. It depends on the difficulty of the install. I'm not going to ruin another motor because I didn't think first or because I didn't do some research.

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he has an 04 G35 with the stillen stage 4 supercharger kit(you know the roots type supercharger), stillen CBE, lightweight flywheel, different clutch, and a Zex Wet Kit running 30shot of n2o(again from what he tells me), and i dont know if what he tells me is 100% fact but i saw his dynographs(he keeps them in his car) and i know what i read(366whp 365wtq) and from what he told me today, he runs the n2o for top end since his supercharger runs out of steam up top(which makes sense since its a roots type supercharger) and that he felt 30shot was good enough for when he wanted the top end power, i havent been in his car when he is spraying so i can not comment on how it feels when he is spraying but i think the 60whp he gains from it comes from throwing more fuel into the car cooling the intake charge even more, and the n2o as well
and i realize n2o is usually not used on supercharger setup but he is running 30shot(again from what he tells me) wet on his car because he wants to

I can tell you that when I FI my car(type of FI depends on if i move out of california or not) i will be running 100shot of n2o regardless if its supercharged or turbocharged just because i can and i can say i have a FI car with n2o

and i say you were coming off as a troll because you are asking some pretty ridiculous questions(like why my friend is running 30shot on his supercharger, why my friend has 2 maps, ect.) and you also imply i brought up my friend before in the thread when i didnt(and if you are talking about the other 370z owners i met with the stillen supercharger, those guys are not my friends, i just met them and asked them questions about it since i was interested in the supercharger plus thats a totally different thread dude) and just the way you come off from reading that post seems like its a troll post dude(i mean just reread your post)

i dont mind a good debate, and in fact i do welcome others opinions because it can only open my mind more to others views and opinions

and that sucks your friend isnt making the advertised HP with the stillen kit, why he isnt making much hp is above and beyond me but every car is different, like my friends G35 is making a bit more than everyone elses car with the stage 4 supercharger and he doesnt even know why its making more hp than most of the people who bought it


and with all that said, sorry for calling you a troll, lets move on and not get this thread close XD

This guy is funny.:roflpuke2: I've been off the forum for about a month or so and see this trash talking out of his ***.

Its funny how you have to resort to personal attacks when you feel that you can't compete in an intellectual manner about the topic on hand. You say you ran nitrous but also laugh at the guys who use it at the track?!? What a f'ing clown. 3 11 sec cars? Wow, you should be king all mighty "Mr. know it all" but yet you come off as a clueless clown intellectually.

Before you assume anything about anybody or think you've been doing something longer than somebody else. Know your facts. I've served over 12 years, been bare base deployed and seen/been engaged in conflict so pieces of **** like you can sit there and mouth off without repercussion.

So the next time I come through Texas around your parts for any type of training or if you so happen to come to this side of the world. Please feel free to PM me or anyone on this forum who is located here to get ahold of me so we can meet accordingly.

Politics? Cmooon. Let's just stick to what this section of the forum is about. Forced Induction.

WTF does your resume have to do with how much hp YOUR build has. Prove me wrong where's your numbers at. Learn your facts bud. I have many friends that are or were in the military. I've hired and trained 22 vets with PTSD and have enjoyed every minute with them and helped them as much as I can. One thing they all have in common is when a guy brags about his service, they see it as a disrespect. So do me a favor put your pecker up and prove me wrong. Build your nos car and put up your numbers. I'll do the same. Now if your trying to threaten me or scare me your going to need something a lot more than your resume.

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If you guys are going to argue please take it some where else, I would like my thread to be clutter free when I get back in a couple months to start posting again. I am assuming your comments are directed towards JC671. There are probably many vets on this forum as well as some that still play on the weekends or are still active as we speak. I just like many others have served our country honorably and would do it again if "called upon" I say that b/c we know they don't pay well LOL. Just remember those who have fought/served feel they have more to say b/c they joined, in doing so we also gave that same freedom of speech to those who did not fight, for that is what we fight for, equality no matter how small the voice. A man once said to a protestor I am proud to give you the right for freedom of speech, but I also have the right to punch you in your stupid face if I don't like what you are saying.

So as some of you may know, I did purchase a new/used motor from Z1. That will be put in and I also got my hands on a GTR manifold which I plan to have fabricated to be used on my Z for direct injection. I've been buying things left and right to change up the look on my car nothing too major but just a few goodies. Once I get home and all is complete pictures, videos, graphs and all will be posted.

I hope everybody had a good 4th of July drank plenty of beer and grilled out. Stay classy 370z!!

Well said V8killer

In respect to V8killer, I'll end it at this.

Read through this entire thread and tell me where I bragged about how much HP i have? In this entire thread your the only one bragging about anything. Only one bragging is you saying you had 3 11 sec cars. I could care less to see pictures or slips of these "supposed" cars you have. Your the only one here on a brag fest about **** you don't know about.

If you knew about Guam, you'd know there's no dyno here.
Like I said PM me.

Hey Guys I hope some of you are still following the thread. This questions is directed more towards the guys already running nitrous. So I purchased a bottle bracket that came with a bottle heater. Last night one of my guys asked me if I heard of Nano. I looked it up and it seems way better than using a bottle heater so now I am getting rid of that set up. Luckily APS is selling it on ebay for me for a week before I return it to them b/c I'll have to take a 25% hit if returned. NANO Nitrous 0130110 NANO Nitrogen Assistance for Nitrous Oxide Let me know what you think.

that nano systems sounds interesting. what exactly is it doing?

From what it was explained to me from a coworker is it uses compressed air to keep your bottle temperatures. It hooks directly into the fill outlet of your bottle. You keep the compressed bottle cold buy using a blanket that you put in the freezer or you can even put the nano bottle in a cooler full of ice. It allows your bottle to spray at 100% every shot. No wires needed to be run for a bottle heater it completely eliminates it.

I have been running one for 2 years. This is what I wrote on another forum regarding it. Definitely worth it imo...

Here are the advantages imo..

PROs:tup:
1. Reduced wiring/switch/relay work during system install
2. More solid runs at tuned 950psi (8-10 solid runs @ 100whp jets/10lb bottle) therefore more N2O used and not residual leftover.
3. NANO has mini gauge which can be used to determine how much N2O in bottle before refill
4. Safer...no accidental "ooops I left the heater on"
5. Puts you at or near tuned psi instantly, eliminating wait times for warm up.
6. NANO fittings are the same as paintball gun equipment so easily sourced. Also you theorically could use it to power a semi automatic paintball gun during the off-season...(but I digress, lol)

CONS:shakes head:
1. Hot summer days will require you to chill-pack the bottles as environmental heat over 87d F will increase your starting PSI. That is why I have velcro straps around my bottles for chill blankets.
2. 3000psi kit is easier for refill locations over 4500psi. 4500psi can be filled at paintball\scuba stores and is a smaller bottle profile where space is a concern (i.e. roadster trunk)
3. Cost to refill NANO is 3-4$ so ongoing spend when compared to warmers.
4. Bottles will need to be re-certified after so many years (maybe 5?)
5. NANOs should be slightly overfilled (i.e. 3500psi) since you lose up to 500psi upon initial opening to hit the checkvalve on ur 10LB bottle.

Thank you for the info. Sending you a pm

PM replied. Hopefully your N2O journey will be better the second time around as I remember your "I fried my pistons" posts. I shed a tear every time I read posts like that on forums...lol...sux!

Here is some more blabbery I wrote somebody before...

Technically, if you lived somewhere where it was 65-70F every day\night your bottle would naturally be in that psi range and a warmer, NANO or anything else would not be needed.

You can control psi in two ways (t-stat warmers or Nano). The benefit of NANO is that you have 3000-4500psi pushing against the N2O in a constant & regulated way to keep you in your "tuned psi". This levels & holds the bottle psi fairly constant as your nozzles draw from the bottle. Warmers in contrast bring a full bottle to tuned psi but then psi starts to reduce after every run usually leaving you with a 1/3 of N2O as unuseable waste (cuz you cant get enough pressure to run the last bit thru the lines). With NANO you get most if not all out through the lines run after run. Actually NANO can potentially get 15-20% more whp in early fresh bottle runs out of your jetting, where the OEM has a re-jetting chart to factor that out for safety.

However, NANO has its shortcomings when outside temps exceed 85F. With that the logic is reversed and actually chill your bottles to bring bottle psi down within the tune. Some folks use 10lb bags of ice, I personally use reuseable polar packs which I velcro strap on the bottles.

In either case N2O pressure gauges are a MUST imho to manage to your tune, whether it be by NANO, warmer or natural temp getting you there.

As I was looking for an update on this thread, and knowing that you are going to give it another try on a new engine, I decided to re-read the whole post regarding the plug burn-up issue. It made me wonder at what starting bottle psi did you test your 100shot? (really 75whp jetting under Zex charts I think should be no prob on VHR). If it was really high 1200-1300psi or greater that could have caused an extreme lean condition or if the NMU plungers became stuck due to low voltage, high pressure, or long-term pressure where you didn't close the bottle off and purge out the lines after use. I came across this article that may be of interest the next go around...

Rebuilding a nitrous solenoid..

I've been getting questions on what would cause a nitrous solenoid to "stick" closed sometimes ??? This time of year (HOT Summer) this seems to become more of an issue. With the under hood temps getting unbelievably high there are a few things that can cause this. High bottle pressure, long durations of pressure against the solenoid, extremely heat soaked coils as well as low voltage.

1. As far as voltage goes you ALWAYS want to power your solenoids thru a relay that is supplied with a good battery power source. Most nitrous solenoids are pressure tested to operate at 12 volts. If your having issues with solenoid activation, testing voltage output on your relay can help solve issues.. Also good grounds are important too.

2. One of the things many don't understand as well is what pressure can do to the plungers in the nitrous solenoids. PRESSURE is what hurts a nitrous solenoid plunger !!! NOT a progressive controller !! ANY time your opening your nitrous bottles valve and or an inline 1/4 turn style valve you should at first SLOWLY crack the valve to allow pressure to steadily put pressure on the plunger, not SLAM into the plunger. Remember, pressure is what holds a plunger down/closed.

High pressure is a no no against the solenoid/plunger. The higher the bottle pressure is the harder it forces the plunger into the solenoids orifice or sealing seat. If you over pressurize the solenoid or leave pressure against the plunger for long periods of time it actually begins to force the center of the plunger out of the main body and nipples up into the center of the orifice. This nipple being forced into the center of the orifice now adds resistance to the lifting motion needed to open against the pressure as well.

3. There are two common styles of plungers (regardless of sealing material in them) used in many of the nitrous solenoids out there. We have been using what is called a "self compensating" plunger ( @ .474 diameter by 1.171 tall) for quite a while. Just recently (@ April of 2012) we made the change to what is refered to as a "pinned" plunger ( @ .474 diameter and overall 1.161 tall). You need to be aware of this when ordering rebuild kits for our's or any other brands solenoids from us. The stem that the plungers go into are also different depths and mixing these up can cause issues..

Thanks for the information man I really appreciate it. psi was at 950 when tested.

Bump. It is still a long road and with me being overseas a lot it seems to take a lot longer than what I want. Another blown motor while on the dyno. No clue how it happened. Improper jets were the first to blame. Now possibly the Nano kit. Right now I am in the middle of making the decision of a short or long block build. On top of that I am looking to go direct port. Hopefully I will get this back on the road soon.

How much N2O were you running when it popped?

Just a 100 shot. Jon said basically once they did a pull it just kept spraying and he let off the throttle but it just kept going. Checked the brain box and there wasn't anything wrong with it so none of the gates were just wide open.

Just looking to bump my old thread. This has been a long painful road of two blown motors lol. So this week at Z1 they should be finishing up the tune n/a and with a 100 shot of nitrous on the car. I will post them once I receive them.

I have lots of experience with nitrous and have been on the fence just bc i don't race like i used to. So you blew the motor because a zex solenoid stuck open?

Not a fan of zex products. I don't think I have any of their parts on my Z. 190 shot and I never had a problem.

Dam dude, so you blew two motors and never got a chance to put either one of them on the streets??? I was thinking about No2, but after reading this horror story, I think not!!!!

Not sure, not even the shop can explain what happened. First thing they thought was something happened with the box but after further testing the box is fine. They are suspecting something went wrong with the nano kit possibly maybe improper psi.

190 shot on what? Stock block I wouldn't think so b/c the first thing Z1 thought was we had the wrong jets and were spraying for a 200 shot the way the motor was responding b/c it just kept going up.

I don't blame the nitrous on the first one. Improper tune. 2nd one is still no clue, the shop blames the nano kit but even then they are not sure. I spoke with nano and they have never heard of it happening before either.

Yup stock block. A majority of my kit is NX with the exception of a few dyno tune stuff and NOS products. Iv heard too many horror stories with Zex parts

OH my, should've just got the TT and saved some cash dude, browsing through you went and my understanding is you went through 2 motors ?

Man that is crazy, even the guys at z1 don't recommend going past a 150 shot on stock block.

Ya I went through two motors but only paid for one. so 2500 bucks later here I am. Hopefully all goes well.

[QUOTE=V8Killer;3162502]Man that is crazy, even the guys at z1 don't recommend going past a 150 shot on stock block.


lol well yeah of course they won't recommend it. They don't want to be responsible if anything happens. Trust me on race fuel the motor can take it. I personally know guys with DE's doing 150+ shot on stock blocks and those motors aren't nearly as stout as the VHR so what's another 40hp?