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I don't think it is hit or miss ,but more on how you use this kind of power. If you are going to do jump on it right off a traffic light "vs" getting on the gas while rolling at 20-30 well that will play a big roll in who has problems. |
yea and save for a bad *** built auto tranny. only bout 4 grand. then youll be str8
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Its already been mentioned that if you don't "get on it" especially in the later gears, where the auto has shown to be unable to handle the massive wave of torque, you will be fine. However, if you have splurged or a stage 2 kit, paid to have it installed and properly tuned, it would suck to be limited in your enjoyment. I mean damnit I paid for it all in cold hard cash I should be able to drive it like I want to. The guy in the jb4 135i or Vette isn't going to hear, "oh I want to take it easy on my tranny." He's just going to laugh at you.
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People **** a brick when they pull up next to me and figure out how bad I smoke them. You can't even hear the turbos on my car.
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I'm glad it all worked out and everthing is runnin great LafitteZ :tup:
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Only three members have had 7at fried and they all have common issue or circumstances. One little feature on uprev can really make a difference on 7ats. Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk |
I yea Stryker after I fixed those little problems it's been 5000 miles no problems. Once I get this tranny stuff figured out I think the car will be very very reliable.
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First off, I don't need aftermarket forced induction to be knowledgeable on the subject. I've done my research, talked to people experienced on the matter and while my Z still remains N/A (a good decision considering that F.I. options continue to grow i.e. GTM's twin supercharger :)) I built a car running forced induction before. Driving one on the norm as opposed to not doesn't make one more knowledgeable than the other. With that said, members with the 7at have repeatedly stated they are hesitant or downright unwilling to achieve their full potential of power and torque because they have the 7AT. So, not only can you NOT hammer it in 5th gear and above, 5th gear being the "cruising" hear for the 7AT's but there is power out there that you can't confidently utilize.
Now you don't have to take my word for it so here is what GTM had to say, I saved you the work of having to do the search for yourself. GTM states: Generally, when an OEM designs a transmission, they have a specific torque capacity in mind and use this capacity to specify the number of clutch disks used in each clutch pack. The valve body is also programmed to operate these clutch packs in a specified manner. For example, when cruising in 5th gear on a 5 speed automatic, the transmission will only downshift to 4th gear when a certain amount of pedal pressure is applied for a certain amount of time. Because 5th gear is used mainly for cruising, there are less clutches in the clutch pack and therefore, the ultimate holding capacity is less than that of the lower gears that are used more for accelerating. In the case of a 7 speed automatic, both 6th and 7th use fewer clutch packs with 5th being a transition gear still using fewer clutches than 1st – 4th. When more power is added, more load is placed on these clutch packs. One way to prevent premature wear of the clutch packs is to modify the valve body to increase hydraulic pressure so that the transmission will downshift more readily. A modified valve body also shifts faster and slips the clutches less to achieve a firmer feeling when the transmission shifts. This keeps the transmission in lower gears when you are trying to accelerate the car with more torque. On the new 7 speed automatic, line pressure can be increased by reflashing the ECU. When going for serious power, however, increased line pressure simply isn’t enough. Even with a heavy duty transmission fluid cooler and valve body upgrade, more than doubling the factory rated horsepower requires more extensive work to keep the transmission working well. In this case, it is necessary to overhaul the transmission and replace the clutch packs, pistons that actuate the clutches and drums that hold the clutches with high performance versions. The drums must be enlarged to accommodate additional clutches and a more aggressive friction material must be selected for the clutches themselves. In addition, the piston diameters are increased to apply additional force to the clutch packs. While these modifications increase the holding capacity of the transmission, it is not indestructible as there is only so much room for additional clutch packs, larger drums and pistons. Ultimately, care must be used when driving a vehicle equipped with an automatic transmission and aftermarket forced induction. When accelerating in a high gear, damage can result with the additional torque. Therefore, it is vital that the driver is aware of the limitations of the transmission and downshift when they want to accelerate. High speed runs at full boost in high gears is inadvisable with an automatic transmission, modified or otherwise. Remember that the transmission was not designed for those operating parameters. This doesn’t mean that forced induction cannot be added to an automatic transmission equipped car,just that care and caution must be exercised in addition to supporting modifications appropriate to the power level achieved. I know the UpRev software can effect the shift points etc., that's why its the preferable tuning program and by all means hammer it in any gear you want. Thankfully guys like Sam will be there to assist you when you have failed to exercise "care and caution." All you have to do is bring the $$$. |
OP, I see you have the unorthodox pulleys. Do you think they added to your great #'s or do you feel that with the TT's they provide marginal gains at best?
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I asked a simple question that sparked a copy and paste wall post. You keep mentioning 5th gear and smashing the gas and not taking care and caution. My 3rd and 4th gear were fried due to lack of line pressure because the ecu was expecting a certain amount of torque but instead saw probably double it. With that said, I rolled the dice on ths transmission. Now I just bring the $$$. Just another day. However, The negligence on my tuner's end accelerated my transmission's failure. Torque management is a great feature. Oh and I never smashed the pedal in 5th or 6th. :eek: Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk |
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All good brother. Ready for the bar?
Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk |
Working on it, then anticipating long hours at the office. I lucked out, in a horrible market for legal jobs I have a pretty good one. Once all the formalities are sorted out and I get the Mrs. a nice "I did it" gift, I can start saving for forced induction.
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Second, underdrive pulleys usually underdrive by <= 10%, which means at best you are saving 10% of what the accessory parasitic loss is, which is small compared to the total output of the engine while cruising. I'm not saying that you can't make more power from pulleys (warnings from reputable tuners notwithstanding), but they are certainly going to be very nominal overall. |
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Have a 7 speed and before my part out i took it to a runway event and took it to 140+ kept it smashed on 5th gear. Car runs fine and I took about 6-7 runs a few back to back.
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What you are saying is different and misleading. Certainly if you can accelerate through the RPM band (under load) faster, you will be able to spool your turbos faster as measured from some point in time because the car is more powerful and able to get to that RPM point faster. However, you will not be able to spool the turbos any faster with reference to your RPMs because the pulleys do not affect exhaust flow in any way at all. Using our example above, you would still hit X psi at 4000 RPMs with or without the pulleys, however, it may take you 1/2 second less to hit 4000 RPMs because of the increase in power. Turbos run off of exhaust flow, plain and simple, and anyone who thinks a pulley is going to make their turbo spool faster is kidding themselves. |
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I stand corrected! With those mods the time between hitting the throttle and your car start to go a hell of a lot faster will be less. Will that help you sleep tonite? lolololol. In other words the turbos if they spool at 2000 rpms will still spool at 2000 rpms but 2000 rpms but you will get from 0 to 2000 rpms much faster with those mods. Thanks einstein^ |
Lol
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I think he was jut trying to help you understand how your car actually works and not to spread misinformation...
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I was kidding with him
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People on here only want to look right and make the otehr person look like an idiot. He couldve easily said no thats not right then explained it not ask stupid *** questions and say anyone who thinks that way is stupid. Once he explained I understood what he was saying and he is right. Its how people go about saying it on here.
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I think most of understood what you meant as opposed to the actual words typed. It's all good, especially siince you came back and cleared it up! That way the N008-ism is reduced for the ones that don't actually understand they way mods affect their car's performance and simply lurk so that they can have something to talk about at the meets..............at least now they will be able to regurgitate what you said "intelligently"!
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Yep ^
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underdrive pulleys on the TT Z32's were proven to add somewhere around 20whp and typically less than half of that on NA, I'd willing to bet we'd see an increase over the NA numbers as well.
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It's gotta do something considering I'm making 15 to 20 WHP then most others who don't have it
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It's over bro just leave it alone. You were correct I was kidding.
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All you 7at guys if y'all had a choice would y'all buy the auto again? I'm thinking about buying a g37 for the ol lady and I'll prolly boost it off the lot.
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Im still stock but I love it. Kind of miss the 3rd peddle but I like it. I hear the G37s 7AT doesnt feel nearly as sharp though more like a Camaros manual-matic which was very disappointing
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6mt... without question.. oh and +1 for NixLimited.. pulleys will not net gains.. It will only "free-up" rotational mass. -This comes from personal experience. |
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It's the same with the Challenger. I have a 6MT in my Challenger with a blower and my buddy has the same in his auto. His auto is almost exactly .5 seconds faster than me in the 1/4 with mine having 2 more MPH. I run 11.50s at 125 and he runs 11.10s at 124. It's the same kind of thing across our forum. And yes, I can shift. Newer autos are just much better than "back in the day". Now, the strength is an issue when going FI. |
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