Dam sry your right dyno pack not dynojet. The numbers
Are at the wheel or hub

the dyno is connected to your hub but it's reading flywheel HP not actual WHP

Na I talk to the guys at Je imports about. That when I saw it he said its at the wheel not the motor

Think about what a gtm kit is putting down at the wheel at 10psi some guys hate stillen kits but the vortech blower has proven its worth my last 3 cars use v2 and it works

All said and done dynos give an idea were your car sits but your trap speed at the track gives a better real world of you cars ability

Hub dyno doesn't take into consideration rotational mass of wheel

Not many dynos read the same but it's not flywheel hp it's power at the hub
We all know dyno pack read alittle high and mustang dynos read low it's just a tool

But weiboy thinks that is at the flywheel and it's not 10psi is 10 psi vortech or rotex
No way gtm kit at 10psi is making over 500whp but the stillen at 10psi is only making 480 at the flywheel just not true

Take off about 8%- 10% that should account for taking it at hub, My GTM SC stage 2 makes 460 at 8.5 peak psi.

Dude your not making 480WHP GET OVER IT. Your making good power but not nowhere near 480whp.:shakes head:

He might be making that at a higher psi, I bought raul (RCZs) stillen and made 20 more hp than him on the same dyno with the exact same setup minus a lightweight pulley. he made 385-390 on the mustang dyno and I believe 455 on the dyno jet. I made 405hp on the mustang dyno at a little over 7 psi at max hp so however you look at it that is close to 465-475 on a dyno jet. Simple fact is every dyno is different and every shop sets their up differently. most shops set theres to read higher because it makes the customer happier and gives them bragging rights. Dyno's are one thing a tool to help the tuner get the most out of what they are trying to tune. some tuners are conservative to ensure the final product is dependable and will last others try to get every little ounce out of the vehicle and this can lead to longevity of the system. Either way and I think someone else said it earlier it doesnt matter what numbers are put down it comes down to how happy you are at the end of the day.

It also doesn't take into account the entire drivetrain south of the exhaust manifold.

Two dynos reading a difference of 385 -> 455 is insane. I don't care what brand of dyno, that' s just flat out insane. My NA engine had a difference of about 3-4% between a Mustang and DynoJet result.

Something else was going on when one of those readings was taken. Quite possibly a mis-calibrated dyno at one of the locations, or complete incompetence on the part of one or both of the dyno owners.

You sure? It takes it from the hub... Obviously the power has to transfer all the way to the hub where usually a wheel would be...

dont hate the player hate the game and in the game of HP he who puts it down to the ground in the immortal words of of charlie sheen is "WINNING".:stirthepot:

Man some of you guys say alot but don't know squat about dynos ...if your doing your measurement at the hubs how is that not going through the drive train?

Also to nismo370 it's a dyno I can go to 10 of them and get 10 different numbers I got these numbers from this dyno! Just like you got the numbers in your sig..so how do we know your numbers are real. I am not going to run around town getting dynos from different shops just to make you happy. So YOU GET OVER IT DUDE!

I dont come to this forum talking sht about anyone I just post my experience with my car..
If you don't like it just skip the post and go listen to 370zsteve who dont know what the hell he is talkin about!

I know because I have the fastest trap to date in 100'F weather 127mph bogging off the line when I made 527whp sae. BAM!!! And my friend Mr.Squeeze has a stillen kit with the the upgraded impeller and cog setup and he made 465whp on a dynojet when it was 50'F that's how I know also. Smh.

here is you some reading that may interest you.
to give you an idea on the number differences, the following is taken straight from the C&L Performance website

"We have received a report from a "concerned customer" who informed us that some people believe that the dyno chart at the bottom of this page has incorrect information. Apparently, people on internet web forums somehow believe that we "do not know what we are talking about" due to the fact that we state that a stock 2003-2004 Cobra made "only" 316 rear wheel horsepower on a MUSTANG dyno. Since "everyone knows that these cars make at least 360 rear wheel horsepower stock" and these people must be ignoring the first three charts on the page, we felt it necessary to explain. The first three charts on this page were tested using DYNOJET dynos, which is an inertia style dyno. The SAE corrected numbers that it delivers are what most people use when trying to compare horsepower numbers "on the internet", because it is the most commonly used type of dyno. The chart at the bottom of the page was generated from testing on a MUSTANG dynamometer, which is a load bearing dyno, and these dynos will typically read about 14% lower than the Dynojet numbers that most people are used to seeing.

If you take the baseline value that is mentioned (316) and multiply it by 1.14, you will 'amazingly' come up with a value of 360.24 HP as the "stock" adjusted value. In addition to this, if you take the peak "after" horsepower reading of 372.9 (which was measured with an exhaust upgrade and our air intake assembly) and multiply it by 1.14, you will achieve a value of 425.1 HP. If you look at the second dyno chart on this page, you will find that another vehicle with the similar modifications (exhaust upgrade and our air intake) just so happened to make 426.44 HP on a Dynojet, which is only 1.3 HP off from this adjusted value. Even though the base values are lower when using a Mustang brand dyno, you will notice that the improvement of 22 rear wheel horsepower that was measured when testing our intake assembly was not substantially different than the gains shown in the first two dyno tests on this page. If this doesn't make sense to you, then we strongly suggest that you do not "contribute" to the education of people in your community on the internet message boards. The caption under the last dyno chart explicitly states that this vehicle was tested on a Mustang dyno. We hope that this information will clear any confusion that might have existed in the mind of any internet "experts" who were unaware that different types of dynos exist and that they can actually deliver different horsepower readings."


now if you have read all of that steve then you know you have just been :owned: muhauahahahahahhah.

Lol BAM!!! Ok what are you like 5 anyways mr fastest z in 100 deg weather I am done . Next time I post it will be with video and time slips from the track . Got to love it when people come on here no dyno plots not time slips ,no video just there word

actually I have a video and a time slip was posted smh.

Cant wait for some VIDS !!!! Looks great Nissan !

http://www.youtube.com/embed/tuXUrZEMl3c
starting to play around with my gopro and some editing software..
the car is even seeing 11psi just past redline

Take another vid if you dont mind turn on the lights I would like to see the speed if you dont mind. As far as your number go its a dyno pack the tend to read higher than other dyno's because its reading from the Hub. If I had to take a guess on a dyno Jet you would be around 440-450 at the wheel's. Nice set up and its good to see other people out there getting good results out of the kit.

In the end every dyno is different get some time slips like to said to prove how your car is running.

One thing I am going to warn you about is once you turn up the boost you are going to max out your MAF's. I maxed mine out at 6600 rpm's with my Cog set up.

I seen his picture ,and it does say crank HP not sure whats going on there.If you factor in drivetrain loss, and in a rear wheel drive car that's between 15-20%. That would put him at low 400's at the wheels on a dyno jet dyno. I think that would be low for his set up but who know's.

Hahah you caught my post just before I deleted it in order to stay out of this discussion. I guess we will have to wait 'till Spring and see what people, myself included, are running to see where everyone really sits.

i will get a few more videos tomorrow to see were the rpms and speed is
and yes i agree its most likely running 440-450 to the wheel on a dynojet

when i got my mustang dynoed by my tuner on a dynojet it was at 543@ the wheel i got a second dyno at another shop dynopack and it was reading 585@ the wheel

mr squeeze what size are the cogs you are running for the back pulleys i talked to vortech and they told me i can just increase the size of the pulley that is connected to the blowers pulley...
the cog set-up would remove belt slippage out of the picture

that was a big problem on my mustang with the 6-rib pulleys once i upped to 8-rib i was ok
the stillen pulleys on the back are 8-rib i believe?

hmm i will talk to my tuner to see what my maf is reading at redline i can always get the gtm maf upgrade.

I am using a 34 jack shaft cog pulley,and a 30 supercharger cog pulley. The pulley on the back of the blower you would want to go smaller for more boost. The jack shaft is the one that you would want to make bigger for more boost.

few videos of the car

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l1...r/th_2pull.jpg
3-4 gear shift to 7k

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l1..._lightpull.jpg


http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l1...rkcat-back.jpg

supercharged 370z - YouTube

just ordered

engine oil cooler and snow performance water/meth injection kit

Nice HP #'s wish the SC kits put out more torque though.

nice numbers man , Just got my AWD 7 spd auto done and made 365 WHP and 270 WTRQ +100 for different dyno, Car would have been 412 WHP and 300 WTRQ on the dyno down the street,, LOL, I have vids in my thread just below this one