Can you please recommend what camber spec recommended for front and rear (and toe spec if you can) for TT g37? Im having some serious issues with traction

Thanks:tiphat:

Are you lowered? Do you have camber kit and toe bolts. What wheels and tires you're running. Include all the specs if you can

how much cornering grip are you willing to sacrifice?

I have not taken the Z to the track since i have boosted it. I have not yet set it up to achieve adequate traction in first or second gear to make it worth a serious attemp at the 1/4 mile. It was a goal of mine for 2011 but I never really had the time to take care of it.

I am currently sorting out some 18x12 rear wheels to put drag radials on, and I will align the car better for hooking up and get out there this spring.

Just keep the front setup normal and focus on the rear. I havent looked into toe and its effects in drag racing.. I havent really considered it to be as significant of an issue as camber. I would just run as close to stock toe in the rear as possible unless I find a reason that it doesnt work out well after pulling out the camber. You need the entire tire to contact the pavement for maximum straight line traction. That would mean zero camber during weight transfer. When the rear squats, the camber is going to go more negative than how it sits flat. You want the camber to be as flat as you can get it. I wouldnt be surprised to hear if someone that only drag races their IRS car possible even runs very light positive camber so that it zeros out when the car squats.

I ran my 350z at i think around -1.5 camber and it helped a lot versus where it always was when I originally slammed the car on coilovers. That was on a 305 35 18 Toyo R888. With the 3.3FD the car was fully useable in 3rd. 2nd was usually good if I was on good pavement. 1st would spin a bit but it was controllable enough to be content by not quite flooring it hard in that gear. Plus the R888s *seemed* to accelerate better while spining than my RE11 which feel completely dead when they light up.

For my street tires on the 370z I am going to replace the 305 30 19 RE11s with the Toyo R888. I think that will help quite a bit already. For my 18x12 wheels that will just be for drag racing, I will put on a 335 or 345 drag radial. Still contemplating fitment and how large I want to try and fit. I have my eyes on 3 different tires and will settle on one soon. When I have the 18x12s on, I will probably run stock suspension in the front and rear with all stock alignment specs except little to no negative camber in the rear. I think that combo should make the car rather useable for drag racing... for sure at least with stock bottom end power. I am hoping it will work for me even with higher numbers on a built bottom end.

You mentioned R888 as daily drive?? how many miles you can put on them before you change them?? I would get these tires if they can be driven as any other daily drive tires but I dont wanna change them every several months..

I'm sure everyone's mileage will vary. But in my experience on these cars at this type of power, the r888 will last just as long as higher treadwear rated tires. I'm sure if you mostly drive nice, regular tires will outlast. But I drive hard and floor it countless times a day... So for me, normal tires that are constantly spinning like crazy do not last any longer than R-compound tires that do not spin nearly as much. So for me it only makes more sense and I get more out of my car at no relevant sacrifice.

I have daily driven them and no complaints. I bet that there's a lot of people who would not consider them acceptable in the rain. I don't mind how they perform in the rain.

What size tire are you thinking? I found a great price on some 345/35/18" tires :yum: They are 27.5" tall...that's quite a tall tire.

M&H TIRES RADIAL DRAG REAR - Starting from $203.00 Featuring Free Warranty and Free Freight - Drag Racing Tires from Performance Plus Tire

Thats odd, if that photo is correct, that is the same tire as the Mickey Thompson Street Radial II... one of the tires I was looking at, also available in the same specs.

Ya I would love that 345/35/18 but I dont think it will fit. Whenever my 18x12 wheels get here I will probably give them a shot because a local wholesaler of mine carries them. I will try my best to figure out if I can fit them without having to mount them to the wheel so that I can exchange them if not.

look here for more detailed specs on the MT SRII Mickey Thompson Performance Tires & Wheels

It sucks that they do not have a 335... they do have a 305/35/18 and the diameter is perfect for the 370z for normal use but the width is just typical for a 305 tire and I know we can fit more. They have a 315/30/18 but its diameter sucks and its narrow sidewall pulls the tread in too much and its less wide than the 305/35/18.

I really do want that 345/35/18. i think the diameter could fit, i think the width could fit, but i doubt they will fit at the same time. So I might have to decide if I think the MT SRII in the 305/35/18 will perform better for me than a different drag radial in a better size (335/35/18). I am pretty sure the BFG DRs come that size, and probably the Nitto DR as well.

This is a major @#$% tease if it wont be a kit one day:/

^Kit?
-Isn't this an off the-shelf, greddy kit?

mostly yes. The turbo system is an off-the-shelf greddy kit, only one thing about the actual turbo system itself has been changed, and its mostly irrelevant...

When I wanted my kit, Greddy was waiting for a restock on the tial 38mm external wastegates. I have a small "in" at Greddy from working with them on a project in the past and they were willing to sell me the kit without the wastegates and discount me for them. I purchased a new model of the Tial wastegates which I prefer, the vband MVS gates. So I used the Greddy wastegate flanges and pipes and cut up and welded on the MVS vband flanges to adapt to the wastegates i wanted. overall, they really have no effect versus the normal kit setup, i just prefer them, they are a little more compact.

aside from that, everything else is all in the installation, all the things that I relocated or made brackets for etc, its all part of the installation.

Your oil and vacuum manifolds are some trick pieces. Any chance of you reproducing them?

dibs on a set if you do!

count me in too

I was wondering this too... would be nice to have a turn key version of this mass produced. I would so be on a group buy. . . . like right now!:happydance:

I could make a little batch of those later in the winter once i put the car on the lift. I managed to put 8900 or maybe 9000 miles on it now in less than 4 months since I tuned it! damn!!! my car is getting high on the mileage now.

once I get it on the lift for a while to go over everything and see how its all holding up, i will probably take a couple things apart to go over it... if not take it all apart to replace the engine with my built one whenever thats done. Part of me wants to just get the other engine all done and ready to swap in, but leave it out of the car and see if I can get a 10 second pass out of the stock engine with the 18x12 wheel/tire setup.

That's wassup. I don't think that your milage is rising that fast. Heck, you are putting in enough maintenance to keep up with a few Zs, lol.

Please let me know when you do run off some or your "special parts".

Im not sure if this was answered earlier but was the cost for this build in total... rough estimate without your discount you spoke of due to no wastegates... just want to see if this is a little shy of my plans...

phunk how many ports on your vacuum manifold? I found this:

42 Draft Designs

and

Vacuum Block- TREADSTONE PERFORMANCE

For EWGs, BOVs, Boost Gauge and EBC how many ports would I need without using T's? 6?

it currently has 4 small ports and the large in/outs on the end. i have one large used for the "input", the opposite end large one for the output to the brake boost, and the 2 small ones for the boost controller. the other 2 small ones are looped to one another. its a part i made for my 350z a long time ago and just moved it over so it had more ports than i need for now. my BOVs are T'd off the vacuum lines near the throttle bodies on each side

Great find Ron!

Once I get back to the states, I am going to have to look you up dude. There are a few more things that I want to do and those include wire tuck, vacuum/boost cleanup, and forged internals (possibly a re-tune). I need to see the beast in person to have a good model to go on.

This thread has been a very interesting read! Thanks for sharing your build

Thanks. Just the other day the car surpassed 40,000 miles on the odometer, and about 12,500 since the turbo install. Still on the factory original spark plugs, still yet to ever have any service required since the turbo install other than oil changes. Overall the car has been great.

In the next two weeks I will be taking it down for a little bit to go over the car and make sure everything looks good for another year of duty. I will be replacing the front pads and rotors (my fronts are pretty warped now), and maybe the rear. I am going to investigate the shocks and possibly replace them, I think they may be starting to show signs of wear, possibly from having the car lowered on the H&R springs as stock shocks typically wear out faster like that. I will be inspecting all the ball joints, tie rod ends, and wheel bearings for any play or wear, and of course replace as needed. I will give it a full underbody detail job and touch up any signs of corrosion under there. As for the performance stuff, I will be checking all the turbo system tubes and couplers. I will check my oil cooler hoses for any wear from chassis rub, etc. Pressure wash and detail the engine bay. I will be inspecting the fuel pump assembly and in-tank hoses for any detoriation from being a 100% E85 car ever since the turbo install. Change the spark plugs for once, possibly do a leakdown test on the engine... and lastly put it back on the dyno and clean up a couple spots in the tuning I have found need some work the last year, and try some runs at the higher boost I have been running on the street to see what power its at now.

UPDATE:

Good new and bad news.

The good news is, the car has been flawless. I have over 18,000 miles since the turbos were installed, by me, and I have yet to be very nice to the car at all. I have managed to kill the brand new 305 30 19 Toyo R888s in one season of street driving. In this 18,000+ miles of boost, the car has not been serviced once. Forget my last post above, the front brakes are totally shot now, just in time for winter storage. Everything has checked out perfect. Nothing has worn out or failed.

The bad news, I think I am ready to move on to a new platform. I have had a GTR in my possession for a couple months that was borrowed to me from a friend/customer who was giving me an opportunity to design some products for it. It was already a deep 10 second car on its arrival here, and it has a built trans (shep stage 2 IIRC), and he has allowed me to get more than my fair share of wheel time in the car doing datalogs for him before he picks it up tonight. I think that I officially have the GTR bug, and need to start preparing my situation to make that step. The car is a little out of my league price wise, but I think that I can make it happen if I use this winter to just relax and not blow money on stupid xxxx.

I am going to write another post which is going to list what it is about the twin turbo 370z experience I have enjoyed, and what about it has driven me up the wall (not much).

Also I have attached the dyno sheet from when I originally tuned the car.

You can see how low the boost was as I was graphing it there.

PLEASE note that I am not a professional EMS tuner... I did own a dyno for several years and I used to tune cars regularly, but that was quite a while ago for me and I had not REALLY tuned a car in a couple years. On top of that, this was my first E85 tuning experience, and my first UPREV tuning experience. I guess I did adequate as the engine is still in one piece!

I believe that there was quite a bit of midrange power that I left on the table. I was having a very difficult time getting my ignition timing to behave how I wanted it to.

I did end up turning the boost up, and I normally run around 9.5psi now. I have not dynoed it at the higher boost yet.

I have the smoothing set to zero, so pardon the bumpiness there. Normally I can tune that out but I was not good enough with the Uprev yet.

Actually sounds like great news to come. I'd do the same if I could. But maintence on the GTR is out of this world too. Such as brakes and tranny if you push bigger numbers. Can't wait for your review.