Nissan 370Z Forum
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Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)
-   Forced Induction (http://www.the370z.com/forced-induction/)
-   -   Baker Tuning: 2009 370Z with GTM Stage 2 TT Turn Key (http://www.the370z.com/forced-induction/40310-baker-tuning-2009-370z-gtm-stage-2-tt-turn-key.html)

DIGItonium 09-10-2011 02:52 PM
Haha... I use it every once in awhile. I usually put in Rain-X fluid with de-icer for winter time. Man I went nuts looking for it thinking I'd forgotten where it was the first place.

Anyhow, Post #2 updated with dyno video. I'm in the middle of working the before/after video.

RC272 09-14-2011 10:04 PM
what kind of mpg's you guys get boostin'?

DIGItonium 09-14-2011 11:27 PM
Check post #2. I've been logging some scenarios. Going to fill up this weekend for another entry.

[EDIT] Looks like I'm getting at least 20 MPG daily driven with occasional boost. With the fuel gauge fixed, with nearly a quarter of a tank remaining, I've driven over 300 miles. The fill up was under 15 gallons, so I technically have at least 3 gallons remaining. It would be nice to have an ECU flash that corrects the MPG calculation with the new injectors... my car looks like a 400 whp Prius!

DIGItonium 09-18-2011 08:26 PM
Post #2 updated with new video. It's fairly conservative because I didn't have a good spot to test or a volunteer to help me film the action shots.

Next update will be 8 PSI in the near future.

Ron 11-08-2011 09:22 PM
Hey man, did you ever get the clutch issue figured out? if so, do you know what was it?

DIGItonium 11-09-2011 08:11 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron (Post 1398590)
Hey man, did you ever get the clutch issue figured out? if so, do you know what was it?
He flushed the fluids when he saw stuff inside it. There were no air bubbles either. When he looked at the clutch rod, it was adjusted all the way to one side so he readjusted it. Afterwards, he checked the CSC throw and it looks like it's throwing further.

Well the drive is definitely improved, but the engagement point feels a bit lower as well. So hopefully I can take it in and have him raise the engagement point.

I'm still having trouble getting in 1st and R. It takes more muscle from a stop, and the car literally moves! After a few minutes of driving, it gets a bit easier. I'm still able to drive around town with this slight annoyance at stand still. Oddly, the tech says he cannot reproduce this issue.

The last resort is to drop the transmission and ship out the clutch disk.

Vinny 11-09-2011 12:15 PM
I have this exact problem. I also have the dxd southbend stage 4, with the heavy duty csc. When I first put it in, my master cylinder failed, so I had it replaced. Since then, I have te same symptoms that you're describing- its very hard to engage into 1st and reverse from a stop. I usually have to put it into another gear before putting it in first. My shop doesn't know what it could be, and I don't want to drop the transmission if I don't have to.

Ron 11-09-2011 01:32 PM
crap, back to square one for clutches.. Have any of you guys contacted Southbend with the description of what's going on?

DIGItonium 11-09-2011 04:02 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinny (Post 1399391)
I have this exact problem...
That's correct. You have to put it in another gear like 3rd, then it clunks in place. It seems to get worse when cold. Other times it's fine, so it's pretty annoying why this issue comes and goes.

Joe@ZSpeed says some clutch disk have too much marcel in them, which is causing the disk to stick to the flywheel. That's why the car lurches or crawls even when the clutch is supposedly fully released.

Best bet is to drop the transmission and RMA the disk. Southbend will fix the disk and ship it back, and they will cover shipping both way. Prob is, I'm going to have to eat up $530 labor charge at the dealer.

The method with least down time requires purchase of a new disk, but of course that'll be ~$200 for the disk and over $500 for labor.

Vinny 11-10-2011 12:57 PM
Hmmmm.. I wonder if they'd let me send it back to them and pay the difference for a stronger clutch.. :P
It's rated at 480lbs of torque, correct? I'm at 460 ATM, and have a shortblock on the way, aiming for 600whp, I assume my torque wil be somewhere up towards 500-520, not sure how it will hold up.

Ron 11-10-2011 12:59 PM
Zspeed's website shows stage 4 rated at 600tq 370Z VHR South Bend DXD Clutch Kits for stock CSC

DIGItonium 11-10-2011 01:11 PM
Sick... I think I'm fine with 400whp at 6 PSI, but would love to bump it up to about 8 PSI. This is still 91 octane. I don't think my motor sees more than 4-5 PSI peak on average.

Vinny, even with the gears getting stuck are you able to shift at high RPM? I kept scratching getting into 2nd. It literally won't get in. Not sure about post adjustment, though... even with 1st/R being a bit tough it's fine on a roll.

Ron 11-10-2011 01:28 PM
I have that 1st to 2nd grind at high rpm on the stock setup. Might be the synchros. Or in your case, clutch not disengaging completely when shifting.

roplusbee 11-10-2011 01:33 PM
It has happened to me before also, but mostly 2-3. 1-2 takes a lot of effort once the shift light starts blinking and you are trying to speed shift...........yeah. Let's just say I was embarrassed a few times :ugh2:

Joe@ZSpeed 11-10-2011 04:25 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinny (Post 1401252)
Hmmmm.. I wonder if they'd let me send it back to them and pay the difference for a stronger clutch.. :P
It's rated at 480lbs of torque, correct? I'm at 460 ATM, and have a shortblock on the way, aiming for 600whp, I assume my torque wil be somewhere up towards 500-520, not sure how it will hold up.
The older HR Stage 4 kits were rated lower as they did not put the additional clamp load on them as the new ones (trying to save stock slaves) Since our HD CSC came out we can put the heavier clamp load back on them without worrying about trashing the stock slave and is the reason the TQ rating is back to 600TQ.

Did you get your clutch from us?

Digi, I will send you a new disk if you like first to keep the downtime less, Just send me back the old one when you get it out.

Ron 11-10-2011 05:55 PM
^^ :tup:

JB-370z 11-10-2011 06:09 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe@ZSpeed (Post 1401579)
The older HR Stage 4 kits were rated lower as they did not put the additional clamp load on them as the new ones (trying to save stock slaves) Since our HD CSC came out we can put the heavier clamp load back on them without worrying about trashing the stock slave and is the reason the TQ rating is back to 600TQ.

Did you get your clutch from us?

Digi, I will send you a new disk if you like first to keep the downtime less, Just send me back the old one when you get it out.
I like that customer service! Nice :happydance:

Ron 11-10-2011 06:11 PM
JB u still with stock clutch?

weiboy718 11-10-2011 07:10 PM
Can it be your clutch still in the breakin process? I'm running the SB TRZ clutch mated with their steel fly and I have no issues other than a slight screech noise during engaging 1st. No issues going into gear either and it is getting better the more I drive it

Vinny 11-10-2011 07:16 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe@ZSpeed (Post 1401579)
The older HR Stage 4 kits were rated lower as they did not put the additional clamp load on them as the new ones (trying to save stock slaves) Since our HD CSC came out we can put the heavier clamp load back on them without worrying about trashing the stock slave and is the reason the TQ rating is back to 600TQ.

Did you get your clutch from us?

Digi, I will send you a new disk if you like first to keep the downtime less, Just send me back the old one when you get it out.
Yeah, I bought the clutch and the HD CSC through you guys about 9-10 months ago.
So am I correct in assuming that the clutch will be able to hold up to the 500-540 lbs that I'm shooting for?

Vinny 11-10-2011 07:21 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIGItonium (Post 1401279)
Sick... I think I'm fine with 400whp at 6 PSI, but would love to bump it up to about 8 PSI. This is still 91 octane. I don't think my motor sees more than 4-5 PSI peak on average.

Vinny, even with the gears getting stuck are you able to shift at high RPM? I kept scratching getting into 2nd. It literally won't get in. Not sure about post adjustment, though... even with 1st/R being a bit tough it's fine on a roll.
1st to 2nd isn't usually a problem for me, although when I'm shifting at high rpm I usually put a decent amount of power behind the shift. It is a bit difficult to go into second sometimes at 2.5-3k rpm, though, but it just needs an extra little push. The main problem is 1st and R. When I start it up cold, there's no way to get it into 1st or R without putting it (forcing it) into 3rd a few times. (I say 3rd because that's what I use, but 4-5-6 work also). From a roll it's lett difficult, but still a hassle.

Joe@ZSpeed 11-10-2011 07:38 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinny (Post 1401820)
Yeah, I bought the clutch and the HD CSC through you guys about 9-10 months ago.
So am I correct in assuming that the clutch will be able to hold up to the 500-540 lbs that I'm shooting for?
Even with the lighter pressure plate I have seen that clutch hold over 500 whp on the dyno.
If you can send me a little more info on yourself I will look it up and see what kit you actually got and clamp load and should be able to give you a better idea of what it will hold. The OFE will hold A lot of TQ.

DIGItonium 11-10-2011 09:07 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinny (Post 1401826)
1st to 2nd isn't usually a problem for me, although when I'm shifting at high rpm I usually put a decent amount of power behind the shift. It is a bit difficult to go into second sometimes at 2.5-3k rpm, though, but it just needs an extra little push. The main problem is 1st and R. When I start it up cold, there's no way to get it into 1st or R without putting it (forcing it) into 3rd a few times. (I say 3rd because that's what I use, but 4-5-6 work also). From a roll it's lett difficult, but still a hassle.
Yup I'm in the same boat with you. Yet, the car is still drivable. Pressure is good, engagement is consistent, and gear shift is mostly smooth once the car gets moving. So you notice you car moving when you get stuck getting in 1st and R? Notice how the car stops moving once you get in gear. O_o

JB-370z 11-11-2011 09:11 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron (Post 1401748)
JB u still with stock clutch?
Yes sir. Still rocking the stock clutch. Going 18k miles and strong with TT's :happydance:


Quote:
Originally Posted by DIGItonium (Post 1401957)
Yup I'm in the same boat with you. Yet, the car is still drivable. Pressure is good, engagement is consistent, and gear shift is mostly smooth once the car gets moving. So you notice you car moving when you get stuck getting in 1st and R? Notice how the car stops moving once you get in gear. O_o
Do you have a short shifter? My buddy just traded his B&M in for a stock. He was grinding going into 2nd and had issues getting in and out of gears. Problem fixed.

DIGItonium 11-11-2011 10:51 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by JB-370z (Post 1402450)
Do you have a short shifter? My buddy just traded his B&M in for a stock. He was grinding going into 2nd and had issues getting in and out of gears. Problem fixed.
Nope. Stock shifter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe@ZSpeed (Post 1401579)
Digi, I will send you a new disk if you like first to keep the downtime less, Just send me back the old one when you get it out.
Thanks Joe. Sent you e-mail to get the process started. I pray this will fix it for good so I can enjoy daily driving again. Spent way too much on this car... haha.

Ron 11-11-2011 11:02 AM
I'm sure Joe will get you squared away. For future customers, here's is a quote posted by RCZ on why this happens and what to look for on the disc so you can know if you got the correct one. Other vendors might still be selling this design, if you get the clutch from Joe then you should be good:

Quote:
Originally Posted by RCZ (Post 1171152)
...Another update on my clutch disaster:
Looks like the issue was caused by Southbend in the first place. Apparently the stock hydraulic system in our cars is absolute garbage. Its extremely weak. Some of the older 370z Southbend clutches have whats called a "marcel" which is a wave spring that gets sandwiched in between the pressure plate and disc...this was fine for the 350Z clutch (which is what Southbend uses on the 370Z) because it had a longer throw and therefore there would be enough gap for the marcel not to drag. Our cars have a shorter throw and that causes this clutch marcel to stay in contact even with the clutch fully pressed in/disengaged.

I bought my clutch from Concept Z Performance, who had NO IDEA about what I'm talking about. I tried explaining but they didnt get it. All the new 370z southbend clutches have had this marcel removed so they assume I got one of the early ones (about 10 months ago) which still had the marcel in it.

http://www.mooregoodink.com/news/wp-...-intro-pic.bmp

As you can imagine, my shifter is super notchy and has trouble going into first gear from a stand still. So because neither of these two companies wants to own up to their mistake, I will be pulling my transmission off for the 4th time and the car will have to be at the shop while we send southbend my clutch so they can test it out and remove the marcel. ...

Also thanks to JOE from Z Speed for helping us with the CORRECT information about this, he was the one that found the problem some 10 months ago and the reason why it hasn't happened to anyone else.

DIGItonium 11-11-2011 11:34 AM
Oh that's news to me. I really hope this will fix the issues and that my gearbox hasn't suffered any major damage from over 3k miles of driving and forcing the gear lever in place.

Joe@ZSpeed 11-11-2011 04:23 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIGItonium (Post 1402740)
Oh that's news to me. I really hope this will fix the issues and that my gearbox hasn't suffered any major damage from over 3k miles of driving and forcing the gear lever in place.
That's what I tried to explain to you on the phone. When the clutch is fully engaged meaning foot off the pedal the marcel is collapsed by the pressure plate squeezing it, When you push the clutch the marcel expands as you release the clutch, too much and it will not let the clutch fully release.

DIGItonium 11-12-2011 12:04 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe@ZSpeed (Post 1403236)
That's what I tried to explain to you on the phone. When the clutch is fully engaged meaning foot off the pedal the marcel is collapsed by the pressure plate squeezing it, When you push the clutch the marcel expands as you release the clutch, too much and it will not let the clutch fully release.
Oh yea, I remember the marcel. I never seen it in pictures from RCZ's post, so it was news to me on that one. :)

DIGItonium 05-20-2012 04:50 PM
Finally an update to my build thread (Phase 2). Since the last update the clutch disk was replaced with a ceramic face. Then the transmission needed replacement when the gears started grinding. So with all of that out of the way everything's great. I can finally shift with ease.

The Hallman RX MBC was installed, so response is much better now. The car just feels and sounds so good right now.

In the near future, I will probably make the switch to the 3" Fast Intentions exhaust system. The last change, if possible, is the GTM R35 lower manifold. Of course, I may end up getting it tuned with these changes. That will be Phase 3.

CrownR426 05-20-2012 09:35 PM
Sexy!
Get coils bro~

DIGItonium 05-20-2012 10:16 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrownR426 (Post 1728489)
Sexy!
Get coils bro~
LOL I don't think my car can get any lower. It's about 2" off the ground with the Swift springs and lip kit.


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