damn sorry to hear...hopefully Sam comes up with a fix as his car has absolutely no flutter whatsoever..

Damn, sorry to hear that. Thanks for the info, though.

Yeah. Sam is working on the fix after sema this week

Thought I'd try and see if it work

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...l/56190959.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...l/2f54d42a.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...l/4b045a85.jpg

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/c...l/1f94544f.jpg

Is that what slightly helped?

yes it is. It helped a little, but its still there.

Are you building any boost when the fluttering occurs? Maybe a softer spring than what comes with the Forge DV might help.

Did you noticed any changes on the low end after installing the new bypass valve? Like your idling being more jumpy and does it backfires?

The fluttering is happening between -5vac to 0...it happens in decel, shifts, and when your on the throttle about 5-15%. I originally thought it was more but its not. Any more than that and its gone once boost starts to build.

Most likely its a positioning thing. The fact that he reduced it a bit by adding the longer tube kind-of tells me a dual setup or one up by the TBs would do the trick.

Whats important here is that drivability, power delivery, and the overall tune is as OEM feeling as you can get!

Can the bpv spring might be too soft if it's bypassing during acceleration. possibly?

Could you use something like a synchronic BOV? I'm not too familiar with SC bypass valves as I am a turbo guy myself.

That's why i got the forged bypass valve. It comes with 3 springs and 2 washers to help change spring tension. I put the hardest spring in there with both washers and still the same thing.

I'm not to familiar with turbo bypass valves. I saw on youtube what they do, Danny is going to a shop and we will see if they have anything. But again I'm not going to do too much (spend more money) because sam is working on it.

Can you adjust hard/soft setting on that bpv?

You cant adjust the spring much, maybe in truning the bypas valve cover one turn for softer. but the spacers are in there to make it harder.

I was reading a Supercharged Ford Mustang Forum and they were having the same fluttering bypass problem. The solution was a larger bypass valve, one that can move more air or adding two bypass valves.

Sam did mention doing 2 bypass valves, but I havent had time to do that so. Did they add 2 bypass valves connected together or two in series (one closer to the supercharger and one further down)? I'll give this a try if its together since I now have 2 bypass valves.

I mentioned the HKS valve earlier. I understand probably not wanting to spend more but if you go to a pull type don't go and get some immitation.

Here's how it works. The SSQV is a pull type with 2 valves, one for response and one for high pressure relief.

Under boost (the purple area), the boost is always pushing on the back of the valve keeping it closed. It's impossible to leak since the valve is on the discharge side, not against the charge pipe.
http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/...image_05_1.gif
Under light vaccuum/low boost operation the small valve in the ceter will actuate giving you a senstive small type valve.
http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/...image_05_2.gif
Under high vaccuum/boost the largerand smaller valve will open together.
http://www.hks-power.co.jp/products/...image_05_3.gif

If I remeber these are rated around 500HP applications for one. They make different fittings for sound and recirculation. On the older post I also linked Turbosmart who makes lots of adapters. The push type you got work good too if you can size and spring it right, so not trying to knock your choice at all. I just found the HKS was always the least hassle on my turbo cars. Hope that helps if you decide to go that way. Good luck. Bad *** set up :tup:

cool. Yeah I'm not spending more. I just had a little free time as Sam is hard at work for Sema. I'm going to sit back and wait for him to come up with a solution now, which is hopefully in a week or two. I'm going to get a few more runs and send to sam and then dyno in a bout a week.

Took her out tonight... and all I can say is Holy COW. Its nuts how much this car does now. I did a couple of pulls and didnt realize i was already hitting 100 on the on ramp. I braked her down but its amazing how quick this will get there. Got a couple of video efuskay will post up later.

nice!

I can vouch for that. I'm working on pulling the vids off the Flip cam. Looks like it's slow going right now, but I'll get it done, and I'll post them up soon... :)

P.S. I tried to hold the camera as steady as I could, but all that torque made it quite challenging.

Ok here are a few vids... cops were everywhere... lol

YouTube - GTM 2010 G37 Vert

YouTube - GTM 2010 G37 Vert

YouTube - GTM 2010 G37 Vert

YouTube - GTM 2010 G37 Vert

Nice man. Keep the videos coming!
I'm sorry if I missed this but have you dyno'ed the car yet?

Not yet. I'm getting it broke in a few weeks before doing that. Maybe next week I'll have a dyno. I'm doing pulls and checking hoses and for leaks.

Awesome! Good luck getting the flutter fixed. It really is kind of loud... :mad:

I didn't think Sam went to SEMA this year.

He didn't. He said some of his guys were going though.

So I've been trying to figure out why my power steering was groaning a lot. First was a microscopic hole that was in the housing and was allowing air to get sucked in. Sam overnighted a part to me and that fix the biggest issue. Now I was still having a little groaning when turning the wheel. The return line from the pump to the resevoir was a custom cut. Ok I thought maybe its kinked a little. So I took the hose off and cut it shorter to where its got no visible kinks or bends hardly at all. So this helped a lot, but I was getting some groaning still.
I was like great got some problem somewhere. I checked everything; all lines and no leaks what so ever. So i tried different ATF (I orginally used valvoline ATF non synthetic) I made sure I got teh right dextron number each time. Some made it louder, sythetic seamed to make it louder. I was about to give up and decided to try the nissan power steering fluid. Its red and smells like ATF as well. WEll i put that in there and now the p/s is virtually quite now.
DO they do something different to the nissan p/s fluid. I always thought it was ATF? but hey it works.

Ok. Well so far everything is ok. I develeped an oil leak at the oil filter relocation housing. THe part that goes into the oil filter area. Never had a leak and tighened everything down pretty good. Well it was 15 degrees here in chicago and i start the car and back her up. Low and behold a oil pool. I go under and have to tighten a few things. I'll have to do it tomorrow because I'll have to drain the oil to get to one of the fittings. sucks because its redline oil and it only has 500 miles on it

Any solutions with the flutter issue yet?

aw man! that sucks! what did that cost probably around $12 per qt?

i hope you fix the leak!

Not yet. Sam told me he just got the car this past week. It was also a short week. Hopefully in the next week or two.

9 bucks a quart on amazon. Its still a lot, but its really really good oil. one of the few true ester oils out there

I knew it would be a bad idea to have to relocate the filter because things like this would start happening. Next thing you know that leak becomes a torn hose and you have a seized motor in your hands.

Like someone said, you should run dual bpv's.

lol you knew did you. So one guy does not tighten the connects right and the whole system is crap? lol

one person had a problem and now it was a bad idea. Not like there all driving around leaking oil. Could be worse he found the leak before harm and is able to do something about it, unlike detonation which s like cancer to a engine
frank

off to make some popcorn...

Hah. It was an easy fix. I was able to tighen everything down without having to remove the oil. All is well again.

Yeah. I dont think the cold weather is exactly Sams fault. Sure we could blame him... but we'd be wrong.

Two metal connectors which stated to tighten but dont over tighten. So when it was warm out it was fine and when it was cold out at 15 we must have not made it tight enough.

But hey.. Oil leak caused by not tightening all the way. I guess I need to RMA my supercharger heh.

afaik two of them failed ;)

Fluttering > GTM

Just be careful when you go to high rpm, check it every now and then. I know I check my oil cooler every now and then just to make sure everything is cool.