UPDATE: Link below is a small writeup and notes. I have started the car but not driven it yet as I do not have a ROM file from uprev yet. Supposed to get it today or tomorrow. SAM has been on them to get it going. After mine is done it will only be a matter of hours for Sam to fix G37 verts.
Car started with no error codes.
2010 Infiniti G37 Convertible GTM supercharger installation how-to

Schwing! :D

For the sc reservoir flip the bottom bracket and it will give you better clearance to the charge pipe. For the oil thermostat, it is designed to face the opposite angle. Pics in the instructions are hard to tell though. Everything else looks good!

^^^ LOL but what do you know.

Oh I know a thing or two about this kit.

I heard GTM was doing your FX next. When do I get to see that?

The bracket is flipped. If it was flipped the other way it would be completely on the intake tubing. I'm goint to have to modify the brackets (elongate the holes with a dremel)

This is the only way the thermostat would go. I tried the opposite angle but I did not have room for it to go without hitting the oil cooler itself. The bracket forced the thermastat to be too close to th plactic piece. I saw the pics and diagrams. I also had a small issue with the s/c oil bracket. It did not line up with the rear brace at all I had to put it on the other side and use washers to keep the bracket from being torqed. May be a vert difference. Dont know.. Trust me. I spent a couple of hours trying to route those hoses every which direction. This was the least resistance and not rubbing on anything. It only took me 2 mins to dremel out.

You could be right that the convertible is different. On the coupe/sedan the oil cooler lines are intended to have the 45° ends (returning to engine and leaving the oil filter) pass around the inside of the black "plastic" radiator support and hug the frame rail.

As far as the bracket your talking about the bracket that holds the SC oil cooler and the top of the IC in place. (Z guys won't know what we are talking about because that bracket doesn't exist for the Z).

Before you dremel out the reservoir brackets send me a pic of them. Let me see what it looks like.

Nice write up. How experianced are you as a mechanic? I'm trying to guage the difficulty of this project and wondering if this is something I could do on my own (and some help from a few friends). I've done quite a lot of work on my motorcycle and am planning some mods for the Z this winter. So far I've never run into any obstacles I couldn't overcome but I've never done anything as in depth as a super charger.

Well. I've done engine swaps before but this is my first Forced Induction. I'd sa i'm a decent mechanic. Bout the only thing I dont do or have never done is bore out an engine. Its turely not hard. It's just time consuming, Plus I'm fairly anal about how things are put together. Clips have to come out perfectly so it can go back like it was never touched. Again I did it in 30ish hours with the help of a friend for 2 days. This was his first time with F/I as well. I know shops can do this in 12-18 hours, but I dont have access to a lift or shop tools. Just my garage with my tools.

Testing driving mine right now...

Rub it in. Mine is all ready to go. I even start it up. I want to test drive so bad now. Did you put the bumper back on before test driving?

I thought this was a nice detail answer to someone's question on another board asking why i chose the GTM and difference in the tuner and turn key

Well Valid questions. I am not a specific fan of Stillen or GTM. I have heard of stillen a lot and a little about GTM. The fields infiniti here even had a g37 coupe with the Stillen S/C installed on it. It was nice. I even went for a test drive in it. I've read a lot on both and talked a lot to Josh at Stillen and Sam at GTM before making my decsion to go with GTM.
The Stillen kit looked to be a very quality s/c. The parts looked to be well made. You get a new intake manifold and the supercharger does mount on top driver side. The stillen kit is supposedly louder as well. This didnt bother me when I test drove the Stillen, it did not appear to be overbearing to me.
The stillen kit is on hold and not being sold at the moment until they get software figured out. The problem that people were having on other parts of the board is problems with the tuning. With the stillen kit you get the uprev software BUT you can not go and tune it yourself. It is locked by stillen. IF you want to tune it you have to buy the license for it which can be near a grand i think. Someone has tuned the stillen themselves and its working great showing that its more software issue than hardware. Stillen is right now on their 6th revision of the tune. ALso to get the warranty offered by Stillen yo have to use the CARB tune which is extremely restricted.

The GTM kit is a nice kit as well. I personally like the looks of it better. Less agressive with the s/c hidden down below and the intake tubes looking like cold air intakes. I got mine powder coated black as well. I also put a thermal coating on the intercooler to help with heat exchange. The GTM kit has had a couple of people installed with decent results. The only dyno other than GTM provided with their own car is on Shumby's (myG37.com) and it was on a 6psi pulley. He got really good results. In all honesty I felt more comfortable with the GTM kit. I also wanted a sleeper kinda of car too, so this worked as well.

The GTM turn key kit comes with everything and Sam will give you the updates that will work best for your car. You do a few runs with the uprev monitoring and SAM will adjust if needed.
The Tuner kit comes with everything that tuner kit comes with EXCEPT fuel system stuff (injectors, fuel pump) and no uprev cable or software license. The tuner kit was probably designed more for people who had the cobb access port (but now they are stopping support which sucks) and people who may have already had injectors or fuel pump done. Now if you hadnt done any of these things the Turn key will be cheaper by a long shot. Price difference between the 2 is about 700 dollars.

I had been stumped for 2 days trying to figure out how to bleed the power steering system. Should be easy right? The pump kept whining and there were bubble everywhere in teh resevoir. I check all connections and no leaks. I was pulling my hair out. Come to find out there was a small microscopic hole in the power steering housing from GTM. They had to weld a hole shut in the housing and during the polish of it, it looks like a small hole that DID not allow auto tranny fluid out but did allow air to be sucked up in there. Sam did not that they did have this problem once before and overnight a new part. Took 10 mins to put new part on and all is well now.

^^^ Now thats customer service!!!

Took some videos of break in. There is a fluttering noise above 2000 rpm. Talk to sam and he said that this can be normal. Some cars produce it and some dont. He suggested I go over all the tubes and makes sure all is tight. Will do tonight

I dont go over 3000 rpm in these videos
YouTube - S/c test run 1
YouTube - S/c test run (2)
YouTube - S/c test run (3)

A fluttering noise to certain degree will occur, We are seeing some inconsistency from one car to the other with the same components, We are working on finding out the possible cause of it . Here is a video of a car that was delivered yesterday so you can gauge what you are experiencing.

Sam

Wait..it flutters while you're accelerating?

EDIT: saw more of the video, holy crap what is that? Sounds pretty bad :(

Have you tried using other types of DV's such as Forge?

Anyhow, great video! :D

Maybe your Bosch bypass valve?

I thought so, but Sam doesnt think so. Its a pretty complicated engine and could be a number of things. Sam has stated that they are working on it. It's not going to affect the performace but the sound can be tedious, but then again I'm not going to be driving like grandma. I'll have videos up of full runs tonight hopefully.

I'm going to try a billet alluminum one and be able to change the spring in it like this one:
SuperchargersOnline.com :: Product: Billet Aluminum Race By-Pass Valve (Polished, Direct Replacement)

I'm really interested in the results you get with the forged bypass valve, I have been waiting on my GTM S/C kit for quite a while and I already bought a forged bypass valve. To tell you the truth that fluttering sound will drive me insane, it makes me have second thoughts on the whole deal. This is the bypass valve I bought:

Forge Motorsport | Alloy Fabrication

I always liked the sequential HKS valves. They are pull type so pressure is always keeping them close under boost. You never have to worry about leaking, adjusting or changing springs/diafragms.

Turbosmart makes adapters from just about any flange to any flange and HKS makes 3 size recirculation fittings. Maybe a vendor could get you one close to the price of that push type vale you linked. Might as well get something you won't have to mess with again and will meet future possible power increases. Just a suggestion.

Fezzik, thanks for the drive! I still smell like rubber. lol

Hopefully those vids turn out ok!

Well break in is done. I did a couple of hard pulls. One of them I broke loose in 1,2,3rd gear and called it quits.

YouTube - GTM supercharger
YouTube - GTM supercharger
YouTube - GTM supercharger

lol that one was great!

Hard to tell anything from a dark video that shows a navi screen wobbling around.

Sorry. It was the best I could come up with at night. I'll get some better videos later. Just thought u'd like to hear the sound at least.

I had the laptop in my lap logging data. The car is such a torque monster, I couldn't hold the phone steady. lol

Let me know how the billet valve works out for you.

I think "its a complicated engine" type comments would hold up better if the turbo kits for these cars didnt work fine.

The GTM SC works fine too. The fluttering is a minor issue that Sam is looking into.

That does sound like fun!

I think the fluttering sound is pretty annoying and for a daily driver it would bother me.

What you are missing is that the turbos spool slower so it makes it a non issue. The load point that the sc kits gets the fluttering, the turbo aren't building boost yet.

Just an update. Sam has been in constant contact with me. I've had a cold start issue and a heat soak issue. NOt a big deal, i just have to give it a little gas to start. Sam is also working on the solution to the fluttering and will send out a fix when he has it. I"m going to try to do a few more runs for sam to gather data if efuseakay is free

David is it a hot or a cold start issue that you are having ? I understood it was when the car is cold witch We had never ran into a cold start issue before, might not be a bad idea to verify the fuel pump install and even checking base fuel press, The map i sent you was based on 18 Celsius coolant temp starting problem.

Let me know.

Sam

Sorry I couldn't come out last night. Hope you still had a chance to log more data!

No prob Jeff. I have done a few runs. I have been monitoring boost. the vaccum stays at -20 until i get on it and boost goes up to a pinch under 9 psi. So far the car is running well. I'm having to learn to drive the car all over again with this much torque and power. I've seen the VDC go off as much in the last week as I have in my whole life of owning cars with VDC.

My power steering is groaning ever so slightly. I think I have a small kink in the return line from the power steering pump to the resevoir. I'm going to put a new hose on ther eand see if that helps. My theory is that if fluid cant be pushed out enough then that can cause the groan.

Well. I put in the forged bypass valve with 3 different springs. Still fluttering. I tried extending the hose, That helped a little but not solved.

Damn, I was hoping the Forged bypass valve would solve the problem.