My build
 

Well a lot of you are awear that I have had a pretty big project on my hands coming along. I planned for the car to be done last weekend but was unable to complete this due date because of some issues that I have ran into, but I will get into that later on.

So here is what my build consist of;
GTM stage 2 twin turbo kit
HKS 2.5 cat-back exhaust
GTM 2.5 resonated test pipes
GTM competition oil cooler.

This is where my review will start and I will provide updates and pictures as we go. First off my car is a 2009 6 speed with sports package, and with the navigation.
Disassembly:
Well I must state this part was pretty easy. The passage header came off with no delay but the driver side was a major PITA. First off all three heat shield bolts were seized in there, so 2 of them snapped and one had to be cut off due to it stripping. With the A/c hoses in the way it was also no fun to get your hands in there. With about five cuts on my hand and 4 hours later I was able to finally get it off. Since i was pretty much replacing the whole exhaust system I just drooped the whole thing in one piece and slid it out of the back of the car. Removing the the intake manifold is also really simple just need a deep well 12mm and need to remove 4 bolts and 2 nuts. Now when taking this off there is really only 4 hoses that need to come off before lifting it. there are 2 vacuum hoses in the rear one directly in the middle and the other for the EVAP. Then you need to disconnect the the coolant hose that connects in directly below the throttle body on both sides. After those hoses are off she will lift right up for you. Also removal of the fuel rails to get the injectors to come out was really simple. Just 4 12mm bolts and thats it. Just make sure to disconnect the electrical connector in the back that connects the fuel injector harness before you go to remove it completely. Now drilling and taping into the intake manifold was alittle unclear to me since the directions didn't give the tap size and the drill bit size. After a swift call to Sam he was able to tell me what I needed. The tap is a 1/8 NPT but i can't remember the drill bit size I wanna say 11/32 but could be wrong. Also the pictures are a little unclear here. If you were to look at the instructions you will see that there are 3 holes in the intake manifold. One under each throttle body and the other in the rear. No where in the instructions did it tell me where the rear vacuum port went an after I drilled the hole and taped it I realized this. So with a phone call to SAM he told me thats for a EBC. Well at this time I didn't plan on installing one (but was going to get one in the future) so I was a little upset till Sam told me its no worry and you can just plug it off. After realizing that I also realized hey it was better that I did it now and cap it off then to have to remove the whole intake manifold again later to drill the hole for when I do get my EBC. So the point of that is DON"T DRILL THE REAR VACUUM PORT UNLESS YOU ARE GOING TO RUN A EBC, or something else you want a independent vacuum line for. Also removal of the lower oil pan was simple. Instruction tell you to use a small flat head screw driver but I didn't feel comfy with that so i went and bought a stung plastic non metallic scrapper and removed it that way. Just be sure to be very careful it seems like it would bend easy. All in all I would say taking everything apart was the smoothest lol. Lest move on to the Assembly.

Assembly
I started off with the fuel pump. There are a different set of instructions for this for the 370 then the G37. After reviewing both sets I would say the 370 fuel pump is easier. You will have to cut into the fuel pump power and ground wire so you can solder the new wires on that connect to the fuel pump. Like I said this was pretty simple. Just make sure you take pictures of where each wire goes to that way you can put it back the way it came apart. After that one i went to assembling the turbo's. Sam already clocked the driver side for me so all I had to do was install the AN fittings and then the banjo fittings. Once the fittings were on make sure you install the coolant and oil line since it will be a major pain to do once the turbo is in(learned that the hard way lol). Also for the driver side do not install the internal waste gate till after the turbo is mounted, or the oil return fitting. This will make installation a whole lot easier(same goes for the passenger). Clocking of the passenger side is pretty easy charge outlet faces straight up, hard to mess this up i think. Once I got the turbo's prepped i installed the exhaust manifolds. I did not have to move studs on the driver side to get it to mount up. It was a direct bolt on as where the passenger side was a different story. The passenger side needed the two rear studs removed and i had to drill and tap 2 new holes to install the allen bolts that will hold the manifold on. At first i was very intimidated by this. The kit came with a temp plate that you install and it already has two holes in it as pilot holes. After you tighten that down it is really simple. Follow the directions here so you don't go to far in, you will need drill stops and measure it out from the tip. I want to say of the top of my head the drill stop gets set to 42 mm don't hold me to this USE THE INSTRUCTIONS. After I drilled the first hole I removed the temp plate and drilled it with the size needed so I could tap it. I found this to be allot easier then anticipated, the temp plate makes this idiot proof, the hardest part is getting the drill bit in there so you will need a 90 deg drill and might have to cut drill bits smaller. After the drilling the exhaust manifold lined right up and the holes looked amazing. looks like they been there from the factory so i was very pleased. Once I got that all bolted down i installed the turbo's. After tq'ing down i installed the last banjo fitting for the coolant and the oil return lines along with the external waste gates. Now the driver side oil return fitting was fun. So here is a little trick. Install the external waste gate first and tighten down. After that install the oil return fitting loose and I mean very loose just get a couple threads started. Once you did that install the oil return hose and clamp and tighten it down. Once you complete that, then tighten down the fitting to the turbo. Trust me on this or your going to want to put your head through the wall. It is normal that the hose is slight pinched by the external waste gate. The coolant lines connect in to the driver side and passenger side heater core hose. Use the T fitting provided. Here i had to go buy some hose clamps since the kit only came with 4. I am going to skip some off the stuff I found simple like replacing the fuel injectors and installation of the intake manifold and other small stuff that i felt was self explanatory. Installation of the oil cooler is simple also. Just remove the bumper support and install the brackets provided in the kit. The driver side where the inter cooler bracket connects, the upper stud needs to be cut down or its going to hit the couplers when you go to install piping. the inter cooler piping requires a ton of patience and is time consuming at least for me it was. Be patient and it will all line up. the instructions for this are very good and Sam provided me with a ton of pictures. Like I said just be patient anf pay close attention to the instructions and pics.

Well lets get ready for the bad part.
After completing everything I recieved my tune from Sam. Car is back together and ready to be started to see how the build went. So I flashed the ecu, and me and my buddy pushed the car out of the garage. Reason for this was if there was a leak of any sort I could push it back in a correct and not have to worry about laying in oil and coolant. Well needless to say the car fired right up and she was alive again. looking under the car I couldn't see leaks so I was happy there. Well my friends this is where the nightmare starts. The car starts to develop multiple problems, air to fuel correction is at 125, I am getting multiple cylinder misfire codes, bank 2 is to rich, etc etc. Also the car is idling rough and when I come off the throttle the car almost stalls. At this point I call Sam and he starts trouble shooting with me on the phone. We start running logs through Cipher and it comes to be that Bank 2 mass air flow sensor is only reading .4 volts at idle. So we swap the sensors and the issue doesn't follow still stays at bank 2. At this point I become lost and after 3 days of trying to figure this out i have become increasingly frustrated.I removed the intake manifold, checked around injectors for possible fuel and made sure all hoses were not leaking vacuum. I didn't find anything so I put the car back together. Next morning I started the car and OMG it ran perfect. It had a nice smooth idle and throttle was responsive. My air to fuel ratio looked good and my a/f correction was at a 100 which is perfect means the tune is spot on. But yet Bank 2 MAF sensor was still reading at .48 volts and was dramatically less then bank one. When reeving the engine it would increase in voltage but was still under specs and was a lot less then bank one. After this I shut the car off and started it again to get another log file of the tps. ECU back in limp mode for multiple engine misfire and my a/f correction is back up to 125. At this point I call Sam and I told him I need to take the car somewhere since this above my head and i have no idea where to start with this. Also I have spent countless hours on the phone with him and him giving me advice on what I should check and how. I have came to the conclusion that He is far to busy to play telephone mechanic. When i said this to him he said don't worry about I'll help you but i feel that is not his place. He sold me a kit, I didn't pay him to install it or to be my tech rep for problems I have that were related to something I have done wrong. Also as he said having a second set of eyes on the car wont hurt and he would recommend to have someone else look at it and make sure everything is ok. In other words I am backing down from this part since i am unsure what is wrong and what to do, and also with numbers that i am getting in my log i don not want to cause harm to my car. It will be cheaper to swallow my pride then to swallow the bill of a blown engine and have someone look at it for me. So like i said after having this discussion with SAM he recommended a garage in Baltimore MD. So to be blunt about this Sam has built a honest and trust Worthy relationship with me that if he says they are good and honest, that I believe him. So as we sit now Sam notified the transport and I am waiting for them to come and get my car to take it there. I will make sure to let you all know what the verdict is when the job is complete. Sam seems to think that is is something silly that i might have over looked so we will see. He was nice enough to call them and explain my situation to them and to make them aware that my car was coming. The garage is really busy but he said they will get me in and take care of me so i was pleased to hear that.

Thoughts of GTM and the kit so far.
Well I must say this GTM is AWESOME. The customer service is wonderful and I was always able to get a hold of Sam when i had a issue. NO matter what time it was and i am being dead serious. He always helped me through and always wanted me to call him back to let him know how something worked out or of my progress. Once again customer service is beyond this world. I know he would have stayed on the phone with me till I figured this out if I have not said enough lets send it to someone that knows this car. He was nice enough to schedule the transport for me also. I would do business with GTM over and over again. Fair prices+great customer service+excellent products=MFW, end of story period. As for the quality of the kit, you can tell that it wasn't put together to maximize profit but to deliver to the customer a great reliable product.

When I get a chance i will get on my other PC and post some pics. Thanks for reading
Frank

:tup::driving: Awesome build!! I heard my kit is leaving tomorrow! I can't wait! unlike everyone else with a TT I'll be heading to the 1/4 mile ASAP and show you all what the GTM TT kit can Do!

my intensions also my buddy has a vette so were going to go battle it out lol

If you have any questions pm or ask here I know mine isn't done but I do know alot of tricks that might help you along the way.

Nice color on the car.

great build, hope you can work the kinks out

Aside from mechanical issues, such as a major restriction somewhere before the bank 2 MAF (hard to imagine what, but possible), it could be that the connector for the sensor itself is bad.

I think this kit would look great with that Kinetix intake manifold, hopefully that gets put into production soon.

So how much time would you say you spent on the actual install?

I would say honestly if I had all the tools and didn't have to run out i could have had the car done in a week/week and a half.
Frank

My buddy wanted to see what the car was doing. when we started it the bank 2 maf sensor started to work just fine lol. My a/f correction was still high though.
Frank

Man, just when you thought you were home free. Dude I got to give you much respect for doing this your self. I am sure I have all the air tools and tools needed to get the job done but just don't have the time needed. Hope that you get your ride back soon dude and hope to see more pics and videos!

more pics

a few more

http://www.the370z.com/members/toner...t-cut-down.jpg


http://www.the370z.com/members/toner...e17926-082.jpg

Top pic is of the stud you need to cut down to install intercoller pipe

Bottom pic is the EVAP vacuum hose and to show how I labeled them to know exactly where they go back. Also took pics as a fall back as you can see lol

LOL that was the truth I thought it was done and finnally over. Well the car had other plans. As for the time comment, thats where I am at. Multiple factor went into why I am sending this off to a shop. 1 being, i am running out of time to finish this, since there can be a deployment in my future. 2 I don't want to cause any damage to my engine. 3 i am kind of getting tired of messing with it lol.

The car is going to Hill's garage in blatimore MD and likle I said, Sam said they are great. I am still waiting for the transport company to get a hold of me to see when there going to be coming to get this car.
Frank

good luck with your build, im in for results.

Like another said, could be the sensor it self. I know those things as very fagile.

Well remeber I swapped the sensor from bank 2 to bank 1 and the problem still stayed with bank 2 so that kind of ruled out the sensor. I am kind of not worried about the sensor since now it's reading like it should. Maybe the idle arm how to relearn or what ever the thing is called
Frank

Thank you I will make sure to continue to update. Soon as I get this car back I am going straight to the track to see what this car will put down in a 1/4

sorry if this was covered, but if you had to extend the maf sensor wires... did you do that properly with the proper materials?

Didn't have to extend them. There was plenty of wire and it pluged right in. let me see if I can find a pic showing them with it all installed in the car.
Franks

When you say it's working do you mean it's reading normal voltage (whatever is specified in the repair manual)?

If voltage isn't going up when you open the throttle then even if the sensor is good, the connector going to the sensor may be bad. Could just be dirty -- might want to disconnect and spray down with electrical cleaner.

The high corrections mean something is amiss with the tune if the sensor is working properly. For example, if you changed the inejctors, the new tune needs to refelct that or even the idlw will be wildly off.

If the location of the sensor changed, the whole airflow curve may need to be recalibrated -- another tuning issue...

^ Thats why I asked...unless there's a restriction in the actual piping?

Alright let me explain more. Yes out of no where now the sensor is reading what it should. I got the voltage all the way up to 4000 rpm and compared it to what the service manual said it should. Before this I removed all intercooler piping and checked for any restrictions and none were there. Reinstalled everything and the bank 2 maf sensor was still acting goofy. Well yesterday I started the car for a budy who wanted to hear it and see what it was doing and poof all of a sudden it was working like it should. As for the a/f correction, I know the tune is right because other times the a/f correction was at 100 which is perfect and it stayed that way through out the rpm band. I then shut the car off then restart and all of a sudden my a/f correction is at 125. I checked for vacuum leaks with some starter fluid and some light sprays and no change in rpm. I know for a fact there isn't any vacuum leaks. Everytime you start the car it acts different. So thats why at this point I am going to stop messing with it and send it some where to get looked at and to make sure its safe. I don't want my car to be a paper weight since I can't afford to replace a engine due to me being stubern. Personally i am not happy about sending it to a shop since i did all that work and to have a car running weird to show for it. It kind of gives me a sense that i have failed and thats not me. LIke I said though thats my pride messing with me and I had to step back and think what would be the smart decission. I have learned a ton from this process and that was the first time I have attempted something like that ever. I know the issue with my car is something stupid and they are going to find it right away and fix it. Honestly I think I will be fine with that since all I want to do is drive my car again and enjoy it with the remaining summer days we have left. Thanks for your inputs and if you know of something stupid that can cause all this let me know.


Like I said bro i removed and checked everything. I also made sure the turbo was turning. I have video of the driver side and passanger side turbo spinning if anyone cares to see let me know. =)

Thanks for everything.
PS, i didn't make this thread to try and get help with why my car is acting goofy but just to let everyone know my experiance with this kit so far and with the installation, but any advice is always welcomed and i thank the ones that are giving it to me.

Update: I just recieved a call from the transport company and it is looking like there going to be picking my car up tomorrow morning. So tonight I am going to get the front bumper back on. You have to do a little bit of shaving down on the bumper no make it fit with the inter cooler. I will post some before and after pics to give everyone a idea
Frank

subscribed

Update: Well The transport came today and picked up my car. So it is officially heading to Hill's Garage in Baltimore MD. The garage said they are going to take next week and look over everything to make sure it is safe and that all is well. After that there going to throw it on the dyno and let her rip. So all in all they are planning on having my car for a week which is fine with me. Considering they are backed up for 6 weeks and they were kind enough to fit me in and get me on the road again. They told me they will give me some phone calls to keep me updated on what they find, if anything and i will make sure to let you all know. I am getting very anxious to drive her again :excited:
Frank

Hope everything goes well for you!

Yeah -- good luck -- keep us posted!

Thats strange I really wonder what is wrong:confused:
After the guys at Baker Tuning finished installing my GTM Stage 2 this week it fired right up the first time with no leaks or error codes.
Do you think it could be your tune??? Or even damaged wire?
Hope you get it working soon so I can see some more pics and videos.:tup:

Thank you I am sure they will figure it out. The owner of the shop seems like he knows these cars well. I did some research on him and he recieved his master tech from Nissan at the age of 21. IMO I think that is very impressive. He is also on the record for being the youngest master tech for nissan on the east cost or around this area, I can't remeber what the dealership told me.
I Have full intention on keeping everyone posted. I want to provide as much info to everyone about this as possible.

Yea after the install the car fired right up. Looking under It I didn't notice any leaks also. Now after a few starts I did knotice a little coolent driping from the passanger turbo Banjo fitting. I put a wrench on it and it went away but I have them checking that also just to be on the safe side. Sam told me after a couple starts you need to go back through and resnug everything down since the vibrations are going to loosen some stuff till they finnally get setttled. As for whats wrong with the car honestly I don't know. It has me confused. I guess at this point it could be the tune but I don't know. When sam looked at the log files he didn't believe it to be the tune. Like I said I think it has to be something stupid. I am not ruleing anything out I am expecting the worse but I will find out tomorrow on what they think. There going to take all next week to look at the build and see how everything is. Also I have some more pics I haven't uploaded yet but I'll get on the other computer and do that later on today. Thanks everyone
Frank

Nice job man. I am very jealous. Wish I had the money and knowledge to do this. Just getting into the car area and did my first upgrade, Stillen G3 intakes, but looking forward to the GTM TT kit.

Perhaps if Obama brings back the stimulus $8k for new home buyers then I'll have money for this. However, I'd pay GTM to install it I think because I don't trust myself doing this extensive work.

Believe it or not the actual installation wasn't that hard. There were times where I thought I was in over my head but I would back off for a second and collect my thoughts and pick back up where I left off. Reason I did it my self was because i never did anything like that before and wanted to learn, also installation is about 3 grand. With the money i saved by doing it my self i was able to buy test pipes, my exhaust, and the oil cooler. Still have some money left over so i am thinking of buying the comp II from hks since i have the navigation I can use that screen.
Frank

I would recomend the HKS Camp 2 100%
With a plethra of of sensors for the Camp 2 you dont have to worry about junking up the nice z dash with gauges. Plus I prefer to have my data in digital form rather than analog.

I am not a 100% sure on how this works but can you explain more and tell me what exactly do I need to buy. I want to read my boost and a/f rratio the most so what would I need.
Frank

Well first I would like to start out saying I hope you get good news from the shop today! Hope it does not cost to much to get it up and running.
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HKS Camp2:
It plugs right into your OBD2 connection under the steering wheel. The cable goes from your OBD2 to the HKS Camp2 unit(Mine is currently in the glove box). This cable provides access to many stock sensors and readings. This same cable provides power for the Camp2 unit so no need for any addtional wiring. Now to get signal to a display is even easier. Just connect RCA cables that comes with the unit into the Camp2 box and then to a video/audio source. Turn on the car, and then change the display to that input and then BAM! You have data! (Make sure you calibrate and setup)


Super easy! Super Clean! Super Informative!

I am not a fan of having gauges in every corner and cubby hole of a clean dash. Sorry everyone has there own opp. but this is mine, not trying to hate on anyone's style.


If you want the a/f read out you need to get the HKS AFK amp(One of the best investments in my book). You can connect the Camp2 to this to get A/F data from. Not cheap but you know the name of the game at this point.


Boost is simple, just buy the boost sensor and be done with it. How ever the only other thing you will need to buy other then the Camp2 unit and sensors is the IF Unit. The IF unit is where all the sensors connect to. All sensors connect to this unit and than only one cable connects the IF unit and the Camp2 unit together.



****The only thing thats needed to get you started though is the HKS Camp2 unit. Everything else can be purchased as needed.




Here's whats needed for what you said you want:

HKS Camp 2 Unit: HKS USA CAMP2

HKS IF Unit and Sensors: HKS USA CAMP2 Optional IF Unit and Sensors

HKS AFK: HKS USA AFK



:driving:

But what happens when you want the info plus using the nav

Get creative:tup:

How accurate is the A/F ratio through the CAMP2 OBDII port? Is it necessary to buy the HKS AFK, that thing is really expensive.

Lol that's what put me off, maybe I'm not creative enough . So I went with defi, always gd to keep an eye on boost and af. Btw any lag with the reading? Seen it on a 350 and the reading seem to lag abit.