mid

i'm more about the low to mid range, all about that 0-60 baby.

I zoomed a neon srt4 with a turbo upgrade I think, and I had the start put he caught up quickly, so I want the mid (50-90 mph), our low isnt too bad.

where did this happen and did you at least win?

He caught me and I had to turn right and he was going straight but he would have pulled on me more, thats why I think he had a bigger turbo in it cuz his low end wasnt there but the high end was. I dont think a stock one would pull that hard in the uppers as they only do 0 60 in 5.6 secs so he had some mods.

you probably should have stayed in a lower gear longer, thats probably the reason why.

Kyle, you're supposed to just be able to click on the "Dyno" button and get to this screen to run 0-60 tests for your car using the iPhone's accelerometer. The "connector" warning is probably only relevant if you're using it with the Wi-fi OBD-II interface that company sells.
http://a1.phobos.apple.com/us/r1000/...480x480-75.jpg

I did and didnt shift untill high rpms, He just put on a bigger turbo that pulls in the higher side, I had him easy in the low end.

Even stock the SRT-4's had no bottom end just because they don't get traction. When they were new i worked on a few, and they really woke up with just a boost controller on the stock turbo. Still felt like i was driving my sisters car with a turbo on it, but quick none the less.

So what would be some of the things we should compare between the two? So far Ive got HP, TQ, low or mid gain, stealth looking, price, psi, weight. Any other areas we should look at when comparing the two?

I guess we now also know that the GTM will have to change compressors to upgrade power but its stage one will give more low end tq. And the Stillen wont need to change compressors as it starts with a bigger one but will lose low end tq for future upgradeability. So 2 kits with different option scenerios, thats good so each person can decide what they want and buy according.

I wonder how much boost the VQ37 can take from a centrifugal SC reliably on stock internals without using race gas?

what you did leave out is that if you really wanted too you could order the GTM with the larger compressor and run it at lower boost level until you wanted to "upgrade" later. As i said in the Stillen thread though why would someone give up usable power now for the chance of a cheap upgrade later. Just do it right the first time, and maybe you won't be always chasing the next upgrade.

Im curious too, I was kinda wondering why 6 psi or 8 psi and not 10 psi etc.. Id love to have a carb legal at the highest, safe PSI possible, but we dont know what is really safe for this car.

Good point, and Im with you there, if I buy it under its capabilities then I feel kinda cheated on power. But as one othr guy pointed out if you know for sure you will upgrade and you need money for the kit and internals then I could see starting under its efficiency and buying as you go. But that wont be me, Stage 1 all the way.