Isayimandrew's Twin Turbo Build
 

I haven't posted in a long while but I have nothing else to do while I wait for this build to finish up. I have decided to post my build up for reference in case anyone else was going to do something similar to mine.

Current modifications (installed or currently being installed) on the car are:

Engine

• Fast intentions twin turbo kit

o Precision cast, superior flow, tubular Exhaust Manifolds with stainless steel heat shields.
o Xonarotor 49.48 (HTZ-2868 Billet Wheel) dual ball bearing, oil & water cooled turbochargers with TiAL ALPHA Compressor Cover.
o TiAL 38mm MV-S external Wastegates with water cooling capabilities.
o TiAL Q 50mm Blow Off Valves.
o F.I. 370Z Front mount Air-Air Intercooler.
o (AFE) Advanced Flow Research Pro 5R (5 layer) Air Filters.
o 6061 mandrel bent "polished" aluminum Intercooler Tubing.
o 4 Ply "black" high temperature Silicone Couplers.
o Stainless steel T-Bolt Clamps.
o Aircraft grade "Teflon Coated" stainless steel braided Turbocharger -3 oil feed & -6 Coolant Lines.
o F.I. Power Steering Cooler relocation kit.
o Greddy high capacity cast aluminum, baffled Oil Pan.
o F.I. CNC billet aluminum GT/HTZ-28 series Turbocharger Drain Flanges.
o Dash 10 high temperature Turbocharger Oil Drain Lines.
o F.I. CNC billet aluminum Oil Filter relocation kit.
o 5mm high temperature Silicone Vacuum Hose.
o Walbro 450 Liter Per Hour (LPH) Fuel Pump & SPAL relay kit.
o Fast-500E "Ethanol" return fuel system with Zeitronix Ethanol Content Analyzer and Flex Fuel Sensor
o Injector Dynamics 1050X CC
o NGK Laser Iridium Spark Plugs
o F.I. T-304 stainless steel Down Pipes

 3" - 2.5" Down Pipes
 External Wastegate dump

o F.I Front Tow Bar
o AMS ALPHA 4 bar map sensor
o ECUTek Tuning by Seth Stubenberg

• F.I. TDX cat back exhaust
• Jotech Engine Build

o Carrillo Pro H Connecting Rods
o Wiseco Pro Tru Sport Pistons – 96MM bore
o Jotech upgraded head bolt
o ARP VQ main stud kit
o ACL Main bearing set – race series
o Jotech Balance and micro-polished crackshaft and rotating assembly
o Cylinder Support System Closed Deck Block

• CZP rear timing cover oil gallery gasket set
• Z1 Urethane Motor Mounts
• CSF Triple Pass radiator and condenser
• SOHO Motorsports coolant overflow/Oil catch can combo
• CWorksDesign power steering reservoir
• CJM Billet Aluminum Fuel Pump Hat

Drivetrain

• ZSpeed Super SIX Rigid Stage 4 Race Clutch with lightweight steel flywheel
• ZSpeed Performance “CMAK” V2 CMAK-OS – Clutch Movement Alteration Kit
• Torque Solution transmission mount
• TWM Performance Short Shifter and weighted shift knob
• Wavetrac ATB LSD
• Whiteline KDT911 Rear Differential Mount Bushing Kit
• Bell Raceworks rear differential brace

Suspension

• Swift Spec-R lowering springs
• H&R 15mm Spacers
• Z1 Aluminum subframe bushing collars

Braking System

• Z1 2 Piece sprinkle slotted Akebono front and rear Rotor kit
• StopTech Street Performance brake pads

Electronics

• Kenwood DNX892 Head unit
• Blackvue DR500GW-HD with Power Magic Pro
• Red LED interior conversion
• Defi Advanced Control Unit
• Defi Advanced BF Gauges – Boost, oil pressure, fuel pressure, and oil temp
• Innovate LC-2 DB Series A/F gauge
• Zeitronics ECA-2 E% and Fuel temp gauge

Exterior

• Carbon Signal vented fenders
• Paint matched door handles
• Morimoto XB LED Headlights
• Morimoto XB LED Tail lights

Interior

• 3G Custom A-Pillar for 2 gauges
• Kenstyle Red Line Leather Steering Wheel

The car is currently at Jotech Motorsports. I'll update this post as the build goes on but currently the power goal is around 600 WHP and 520 WTQ. The horsepower might go up since the original power goal was just 550 WHP but since I am now having to do some engine work we might be bumping up the power since we now can. The torque is pretty much set at a max 520 WTQ because of the clutch I have.

Congratulations on the build, might want to address to heads if you ever plan on bumping the power up. Those power levels I would of staying with a stock block if you’re not racing the car.

Address the heads more than what Jotech is providing already? And I won't be racing the car. The only reason I was actually upgrading the pistons and rods were because when we did a compression test, we found out cylinder 1 was at 140 PSI while the rest were around 180-200 PSI. Decided to add the closed deck block mod from Cylinder Support Systems and Jotech's solution for helping with head lift since we were already in there.

Not sure what Jotech's solution is but that will be an issue if not done correctly. If you stay around 650whp you should be OK. Since you are limited because of your clutch, I don't think you will have a problem. Get greedy and it can cost you.

I see. Jotech's solution is to use upgraded head bolts (1mm larger), the ARP main stud kit, and machine heads and block to accept the larger studs. There might be more that I could have missed from when I spoke to them about it. Definitely not trying to get greedy on power. 600 to 650 WHP is something I'd be extremely happy with. I'm not planning on going past that number anyways since for me anything over that is excessive (even though 600 to 650 is technically excessive for street lol).

Sounds like fun! Good luck with the build :driving:

Upgrading to a larger head stud isn’t ideal, there isn’t much meat to justify it. You want better clamping load unfortunately some form of on rings or step decking and fire rings needs to happen. Closed deck will not add benefits to sealing the heads. Like spooler said you get greedy and you will be building another motor, ask him how he knows

Thanks for reminding me A-hole....:roflpuke2:

😂, let me
Rephrase it, good read his thread.1- 160pages

I gotcha. Yeah definitely not going to get greedy! I'd rather be conservative and relatively reliable rather than chasing a number.

Nice setup. What part of Texas are you in? I know Jotech is in Garland but are you in DFW?

thanks! and yeah I'm in the DFW area.

Congrats on the build. What boost and fuel are you on?

I won't know what boost levels I'll be on until later when Jotech starts tuning. They just pulled my motor to send it off to CNC Werx last week so I am expecting everything to be done hopefully around mid/late Sept to early Oct.

For fuel, I'll be running anything between E85 and 93 with flex fuel.

Are there any others who is in Dallas area?

Just to give another update:

Still waiting on my motor to be done being built before Jotech can do the rest of the build.

The original plan back in August was to have a local shop do the motor build and assembly and to send CNC Werx the block to do the Cylinder Support System closed deck modifications. But, the original local shop was not communicating well and had a few other Jotech motors still in queue (including mine) so Jotech decided to get my motor back from them around the middle of October and let CNC Werx do both their closed deck modification as well as all the other machining for the motor build and assembly. After a few delays (thanks Covid), they were able to get the tooling needed for the head stud conversion and to start assembly soon.

Now that all the machining is done, they're in the middle of assembly where they've hit a snag on the original head studs we were going to use. They recommended that we go with the ARP 625+ head studs instead so Jotech is currently trying to source those (out of stock; again thanks Covid) so CNC Werx can finish their portion and get the motor back to Jotech.

Dont they that soho block out that red Z sitting around?

Are you talking about CNC Werx? I saw a while back they had a VQ build for soho but no clue for which Z.

Jotec. The motor is from that 900whp sc Z that soho built

Ahh I gotcha. I don't know what Jotech has lying around. I thought I was the only Z at their shop currently but I could be wrong.

That motor is there but I heard one of the Jotech guys purchased it from Ben.

True. Figure it worth a try. Enough money people will sell anything

Thanks for the idea. I just want my car back and enjoy it being boosted haha

Another Update:

Going with the ZSpeed Super SIX Rigid Stage 4 Race Clutch instead of the ZSpeed Super Street Stage 3 clutch so that the clutch won't be a limiting factor and we can tune based on the build.

Joe at ZSpeed was super helpful getting the stage 3 disk swapped out for the stage 4 disk while keeping everything else.

4/20 :rofl2: update:

The ARP Custom Aged 625+ head studs came in and Jotech is currently finishing up the long block assembly. Aiming to have the car on the lift early next week to install all the parts. Aiming to have the car done around the 1st or 2nd week of May so hopefully everything goes smoothly!

What did you have done to the heads again?

Most of the work was done on the block. The only thing they did on the heads was machine them to accept the larger studs and clean and inspect them.

Be interesting to see your journey, as this method has everything negative going against you. Good luck, I hope this hold up.

What psi does the stock block start lifting heads?

Stock block 750 plus and built motor 800 plus. There is a reason Seb only tunes to 700whp regardless of stock or built. The key is torque. Now you can dial the tq down to around around 500 tq at 700whp. When I was on a stock block w/stage 1 turbos I was at 600whp and 559tq. That said the smaller turbos spool much faster and the tq comes on fast.

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I hope it does. I'm pretty much just going with Jotech's recommendations and they have some solid builds. I'm also not chasing a specific number and they know that so I don't think we will be pushing anything to the limits.

Hey Bob, I was talking about boost and head lift. Mine's making over 700 and probably around 530ft.lbs. but as you know, we went with the larger turbos so they spool slower and the torque doesn't hit so hard. That's at 15psi. 15 psi shouldn't have headlift issues and the OP wants to stay in the 600-650 range.

My point being. My car made 745 at a little less than 16 psi before we backed it off because stock block. The OP is using the Stage 1 turbos and won't be seeing 16 psi so I don't see him having any concern with headlift as Elmo was pointing out. He needs a stronger bottom end with those smaller turbos which he has.

My car could easily hit 800whp at less than 17 psi. If 17 psi isn't in headlift territory then I'd just build the bottom end too.

That's the reason I was asking what the threshold psi number is for headlift on the stock top end

You and bob are correct. It’s about torque. Cjm car never lifted head even over 50 plus passes and the drag strip. He ran 700-800+whp.

At what psi does headlift become a concern?

Copy that! PSI and compression ratio work together. If you are running stock block 11:1 you well need to achieve the same results as lower ratios such as 9:1. I am at 11:1 and 20.5 psi for 700whp and 607tq. Many start see head lift at 23psi and above. For a stock block with stage 1 turbos 14psi will get you just over 600whp and 500tq. Things will start to fail at 700whp on stage 1 turbos. It may not be head lift but the rods may decide to put windows in the motor.

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So about 17psi **** starts to go south on stock block with stage 1 turbos. You may not get head lift but you may!

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So with the power level the OP is wanting to achieve (600-650), headlift shouldn't be a concern, just the bottom end which he has built?

Building the bottom end isn't a huge expense. Doing Darton sleeves with fire rings adds a lot of cost to the build. If you're not planning on a high boost build, why incure that extra cost.

Got worried after what Elmo370z and Hotrodz said so I double-checked with Jotech to see what they did to avoid head lift and the solution we went with is fire rings and the APR CA625+ head studs.

Just waiting on a few gaskets from Nissan and my motor should be finished up by the end of this week. Car is going up on the lift on Saturday to start all the installation!

You should be good to go! Looking forward to future updates!

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finally someone listened.