Definitely listening to the guys that have a lot of experience and knowledge on here. I remember when I first dropped it off Jotech mentioned solutions to mitigate head lift risks. I knew they did something and I trust them 110% with my build I just didn't know the details but it was good to come back and verify that they accounted for all of that similar to what you guys have recommended.

Got more updates to share!

• Motor is assembled

• Turbo kit is installed on the motor

• clutch and flywheel are installed

• motor and transmission are back in the car

• fueling system is installed

• differential is installed in the case and ready to go on the car

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw...-no?authuser=0

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Got a lot more parts to install but they're hoping we will be doing the professional break in for the motor and have it on the dyno by end of next week.

Are you going to be driving this on the streets still? Hows the clutch and flywheel? A bit to aggressive for the streets? Just wondering because just got the same setup for my turbo build

Do you have to retorque the heads bolts? I know with those 625 and copper after a proper warm up procedure it’s highly recommended to go back and re torque the head bolts.

Yes, this car will still be a street car. The car is still at Jotech so I don't know yet but i'll update you once I have it back and drive it around for a bit.

I'll be going to Jotech hopefully this week or early next week to watch the break in and initial dyno tuning so I'll ask them about re-torqueing the head bolts.

99% shops don’t do it because they don’t have a engine stand, and the vvel is a major pain in the *** to take back apart

Spoke to Jotech and they won't be re-torqueing the head studs. They were pretty confident that it wasn't needed and that their previous Z and GTR builds haven't had any issues or needed re-torqueing.

Got a few more updates. Looks like they're wrapping everything up. Had some start up communication issues that they think are sensor related so once those are replaced and the tuner is back from vacation we should be back on track to have the professional break in and initial dyno tuning soon.

More progress pics:

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Looking sweet!

Dyno numbers are in!

On pump gas it made 559whp & 529wtq

On Ethanol with 60% ethanol content it made 650whp & 582wtq at 20 PSI.

For the ethanol run, we were at the limit of the injectors, about 90% IDC on the run. Probably going to keep this set up for a little bit before upgrading to a twin fuel pump setup and either 1300X or 1700X injectors. I did buy a Seibon TS style vented hood from Jotech but not planning on getting it paint matched and install until spring time so thats when I'll most likely do the fuel pump and injectors too.

Twin pumps are a good idea but I'd probably go with 1300's instead of 1700's unless you're going for huge power. My car made 745whp on e85 with 1300's and they weren't maxed out. The 1700's are just going to give you a shitty idle

Great numbers by the way! Fast Intentions ftw

So the CJM Twin pump and the 1300X should be a good set up?

Cant go wrong with that combo.

Yep, I run twin Hellcats but that's a little overkill

I made 700 with 1300’s on e94 Duty cycle was at 70 something %

Jotech was also thinking of using a radium surge tank setup to just add on to my existing setup so I wouldn't have to replace as many parts. We would reuse my walbro 450, and relace the current in-tank pump with either a stock unit or a smaller upgraded pump since its just used as a lift pump to keep the surge tank full. And as a bonus would address the fuel starvation problems our cars have issues with.

If you're planning on staying at the power level you're at right now, that would sure save you some money. I run CJM twin pump set up with his new surge canister to address fuel starve

What power level would the radium setup with 1300X injectors support? Trying to do some research and get as much info from some experienced people so that I can communicate better with Jotech.

I am not really trying to push for a specific number but I definitely want to maximize my build without pushing it past reliability and drivability. I also want to stay a good amount below 800whp since that seems to be the magic number of when things become unreliable.

I unfortunately don't know anything about the Radium set up. The secondary pump is just used to just keep the surge tank full? So you'd just be using your single 450 for your fuel supply?

They would be putting a 340 into the factory basket as a lift pump for the surge tank and then put my existing 450 and a new 450 into the surge tank to deliver the fuel to the engine.

It’s need some work to work with a return set up. I highly recommend contacting Cjm for the twin pump surge set up. Ran it down to two dots few weeks ago at the track. When I wasn’t overheating it never starved

return fuel line will be better on a boosted car
the radium is return-less, it bleeds off pressure back into the surge tank.

to quote phunk

"fuel pressure drop at high power is a result of the pressure drop that occurs across the fuel lines. By regulating fuel pressure at the pump, rather than at the rails, you will always have fuel pressure drop as HP goes higher and higher."

basically you want the regulator at the rails, not the pump.

radium will handle your fuel starve issues, and fine if you're not pump a lot of fuel
but the cjm return fuel system + anti starve canister is going to be better for higher HP

OK, that makes sense

So it would be better to just replace what I currently have (except the 450 pump) and go with the CJM setup instead of retrofitting to keep most of what I have with the Radium setup?

Why can't you use the Fast 500E fuel return/regulator etc.

The only thing you'll be replacing is the CJM top hat to a CJM twin pump + canister no?

The radium setup is returnless so you'd either have to modify it or remove the Fast 500E fuel return kit.

Changing to CJM twin pump + canister is probably the cheaper AND better option.

The Radium can be modified to have a return. MA did it on Johnxxx's car from what I remember.

I am getting both the CJM setup and Radium setup quoted out from them but I am leaning more towards the CJM setup based on what you guys are saying. Jotech is going to be running the Radium setup on another Z so thats one of the other reasons why that solution came up as an option.

Spend the money once. Radium will work. But Cjm is worth it’s weight on gold. It’s was designed for the 370 with a return system.

Yup, that's what I have.

Thanks! Looks like I'll be going with the CJM setup sometime in the near future. Since the car has been in the shop for a while I'm planning on enjoying it for a bit and getting used to this power level before I upgrade the fueling system and tuning to its full potential.

Can’t wait to see this thing around town.

Red line is E85 and blue line is 93 Octane. This car definitely pulls a lot stronger now haha

Took my car in to EDI (where all my GTR buddies take their cars now) to do more upgrades. Ended up going with the CJM twin fuel pump assembly with the twin pump canister and 1300X injectors. Hit 700whp but had to back off at the top because injectors were maxed (not getting enough fuel). Looks like my stock fuel rails are the last bottleneck so EDI is going to re-plumb my fuel lines and fabricate his own solution to getting GTR fuel rails on the car to get better flow.

Waiting on our tuner to fly in later this month since he wanted to tune my car and a few other GTRs in person so I'll be dropping my car off a few days before he comes in to get that done. They are more than confident we will be around 800whp safely by the time they are finished.

800whp on those turbos is not wise. The drive pressure (EMAP) is done at around 21psi of boost. If you try and push it higher torching a headgasket will be in your future. Shot for around 750-775whp on E90 Ignite red. On pump E85 you will be done at around 725whp.

I am not sure what compression ratio you went with. My reference engine is 10:1. It was pushed up to 23psi of boost to make around 823whp. The amount of whp he gained going up 2psi of boost wasn't worth it. He made 795whp at 21psi on Ignite Red and that appeared to be the safe limit. The turbos were done.

Gotcha. My compression ratio is 9.5:1. Thanks for the heads up though! I'll give EDI a heads up and we'll see what we can safely push for once we get everything sorted out and re-tuned. If that means staying around the 700whp but being able to fully utilize the full powerband I'd be happy with that. Wasn't really shooting for 800whp to begin with but just went with it since that's what they were anticipating it would be once we fixed the bottleneck.

@OP
How hard is it to keep the power to the ground with those HP numbers? And looking forward to seeing the results - great looking Z man :)

right now, very hard lol I'm still using Michelin PS4S and I can easily break traction in 1st-3rd and sometimes in 4th. It's hilarious how easy I can get this car loose. Looking to get stickier tires once I wear the current set out but I'm only expecting to try to hook in 3rd or maybe 2nd with new tires. I'm not planning on upgrading my axles and/or driveshaft for hard 1st gear launches.

At 700whp, it is not hard at all. Wider wheels and tires, Diff upgrade, and boost by gear to keep the boost low in first and second. PS4's won't cut it. R888r's work like a champ.