Just spend the money one and buy a brushless pump. 1 pump will take care of everything. You won’t make enough HP to out flow the brushless pump

It's easy to determine if you need bigger injectors by looking at it's duty cycle, but my question is, How can you determine you need to upgrade fuel rails? I mean what values should I look at to know that the rails are at top capacity?

Think of it this way; bigger rails, more fuel, probably lower duty cycle on the injectors. 3" fire hose puts out a fire faster than a 3/4" one. :tup:

Honestly, I would go with a single 450 or 500 and just add the Boost-a-pump. No need to unnecessarily heat up your fuel unless those brushless pumps dont create as much heat. These things are pretty trick as they only kick in when they see 3psi of boost.

I bet a 450 with a KB-BAP would flow enough for 800+whp and cost $400. I think those brushless pumps are well over $1k.

We made 710whp on that setup with stock rails and fuel pressure didnt drop one bit.

Eugene is suggesting I run a DW440 brushless pump. I'm looking at the Radium website that talks about flow vs amp draw and the TI brushless they sell draws very little current for the amount it flows so it's probably going to heat up a lot less. Looks like it's around $600 for one, but of course there are a lot of ways to skin this cat.

Also I just noticed that injector dynamics has a fuel flow calculator on their website too. Even with 20lbs of boost and E85 they're only calculating 355lph at redline. Does that seem low to people?

Blog Post Radium's Ultimate Fuel Pump Test

this is a pretty good explainer on how to pick your pumps

you can see that the brushless pump (BKS1000) provides the most flow. more than enough for anything on this platform afaik. even at a high boost of 25 psi (assuming your build can even stand that) the BKS1000 needs to output around 80 psi (55 + 25) and will still flow 550lph and only draw 12 amps

Yeah that’s a good resource for sure. There’s also a blog post about ID creating a controller specifically for that pump that puts out crazy flow as well. It’s funny that brushless motors have been in a ton of applications for years and they seem to just be hitting the fuel pump market. My Ryobi impact drill from like 6 years ago is a brushless unit, for instance.

Whoever owns this TG C38R G37 car… Good work sir.. siiiick. https://youtu.be/AzUHehiSufY

Yes, very well done video and great build. Hopefully you run across that same turbo Z you raced before in your comments. But I'm sure he will know your boosted now. No way of hiding that...lol.. :driving:

Loving these flat torque curves!

Funny thing is I actually won as difficult as that sounds. we did three runs. As soon as we got on it I would start to pull away. When I was about 3 or 4 cars ahead that 370 turned into a rocket . I thought that car was literally going to blow my doors off.He made it to about the back of my door until he shifted and then I started to pull again. Then again rocket time for him but to my back bumper. Every time he shifted I would pull but that car sounded like a monster catching up.

Not sure if that was turbo lag or too big of a turbo ,and yes he got the hit on one because I wanted to make sure.

That's when I knew supercharger was the way to go because I was enhancing what I already had.

I've always thought the driver with the best start or launch will have the advantage.As it then becomes a catch up game depending on power levels. power curve has alot to do with it as well.

This supercharger is INSTANT power as soon as you get on the throttle. No regrets with this kit.

Sounds like if you come across him now he will look like he is standing still. He might have an eBay turbo and it's all show, no go. There's some companies selling kits now with $300 turbos on them. They might look "ok" on the dyno but real world is where it shows. Just like this kit on the dyno. Keep the hood closed and it will make the same power pull after pull. Close the hood on a turboguard and watch it ingest heat and numbers drop. Nobody does that though. And let me tell ya .. Those Facebook guys hate hearing the truth!

Aaron, your kit?

Looks like it. Hopefully the owner reports back with numbers.

Before or after Admin blows it up?

Just wondering, what route people are going when installing the dedicated oil cooler for the SC? I've only found pushing the OEM power steering cooler back enough to get at least two bolts on the Rotrex oilcooler mounted down in front of it...anyone else have a more efficient way of installing this?

Has anyone done any comprehensive reviews/videos on the new Rotrex kit on its own and compared to other supercharger kits on the market for the 370z?

Looks like he ended up making around 640whp and 440 torque. Not sure if it's the same one but ran into a kit tuned by admin on social media.

Must have been on an AT. That torque is low on MT but in the sweet spot on AT.

i don't think so but "thecarizon" on youtube has plans to upgrade his ace to rotrex last i checked. his videos are the most in depth (as far as DIY home garage style videos go) on the Z on youtube. So should be a good video series.

Just take a look at the dyno graphs vs the competition. These Rotrex kits are making way more power throughout the entire low and mid rpm range. Pretty easy comparison on what car will be faster.

Even at 10psi these Rotrex kits make more mid range power than other kits at 15psi and comparative peak numbers at the same psi. The Rotrex also obviously has much higher peak potential up to whatever power you're comfortable running.

I have been following his channel but it doesn't look like he is getting the kit anytime soon.

That is true, I've noticed after comparing multiple dynos of different kits your new kit has a powerband that is strikingly similar to that of your typical VQ turbo setup with the exception that one is obviously lag free. I would just like to hear feedback on how the new vs. older setups feel in comparison. Would be interesting to see how this kit responds to pulley mods.

When looking at those turbo graphs do you notice how the tq drops off hard up top? I found it interesting to see how the Rotrex holds the TQ.

And in my previous post I was talking about Superchargers when I said "other kits". But comparing it to turbos is fun too.

Hey Aaron, can you post up the comparison dyno graphs. It would be great to see them posted here.

Sorry I forgot to mention I was comparing between 3-5k RPMs the way it ramps up but the supercharger having more area under curve around 2K because it doesn't ramp up as harshly as the turbo. Definitely, considering the turbos are appropriately sized the supercharger holds its ground better up top :driving:. Honestly that was the main selling point for me, prior to your kit I was leaning towards a turbo oriented setup but seeing how your kit was the best of both worlds it was clear to me which one was better :tup:.

This is great to hear. Glad the 100s of hours getting this system dialed in and fitting 10lbs of shiz in a 5lb bucket is worth it. These imports are hell in the bay. My turbo raptor was like working around an empty pool.

Did you guys know I have to remove and machine every Rotrex compressor cover just to get it to fit? That's the kind of spacial constraints I was against here. I also machine/bore out every inlet to make sure the intake is as capable as possible. It's hard to explain but it's the little things that matter.

Seriously man your kit is living up to the hype :happydance:. And that's so true, the engine bays are super cramped, another reason why going TT would've been a nightmare for servicing :icon14:. That's the type of dedication and determination that we as a community appreciate :). Would love to hear all the little changes that went into this kit!

That's lots of little secrets but can't spill them all.

One I'd like to point out that again people don't consider is we send a brand new machined ribbed idler pulley with the kits where the "other" SC kits require you to reuse pulleys from the car. If you have a high mileage car that bearing set is already stressed. Then there's the belt wrap that eliminated belt slip. Do you know how many anti slip pulleys I sell off my site to stillen and Soho kit owners? Alot. No need to purchase additional add ons to this Rotrex setup. It was designed with 800whp in mind from the beginning.

We are actually creating 3 different pulley setups now. You will be able to select the standard set, race set or Max set. We need to test these still but the max setup will come with Carbonite coated pulleys and cost more but will be reserved for built motors only.

Check out Carbonite coatings if you haven't seen or heard of it. There's also a high grip option called reichard.

We will always strive to improve. Most of the time I'm not even sure what that is until it happens. Lol .

That's kind of tricky to do because I get called out for "company shaming".. lol. But there's a site with a Version 2 kit that has a graph to check out. Then take a look at the graphs here or on my website. I think page 20 has a good one.

I understand. It's just a pain in butt searching for others because I think they're mostly posted on Facebook. Are there others of your Rotrex kit that you can post on here.

Nice to hear about the attention to detail you put in, about the pulley setups are these going to vary in size? I'm glad that you do, sometimes products are put out and never reach their full potential.

I think a great thing to emphasize about the topgunz kit as to why you are seeing more area under the curve is because the unique ability to bleed off excess boost especially when the original pulley that comes with the kit is sized to almost max out the blower. If this kit can hit 20psi by redline and you set it to 10psi, then you will hit 10psi by about midrange and theoretically you could keep a flat torque curve to redline. So this kit at 10psi will definitely look different than other kits at 10psi, unless the other kit it also running a 20psi pulley on a blower that could support that amount of flow but its limited to 10psi somehow.

Point being, out of the box it is definitely superior to other out of the box kits. (although with throwing a bunch of additional stuff to other kits, you could see similar graphs) and because of that feature it will look more like a turbo graph, yet be more predictable as you build boost.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I might be going out on a limb here so Aaron can chime in if I'm wrong but superchargers really only differ in the top half end when raising boost and that goes for all superchargers on this platform. If you look at the graphs on page 20 you can see that up to about 4.5k they are the same despite differing in PSI. This goes for other kits that I've noticed as well including Stillen, SOHO, etc. The biggest difference is really going to come down to the choice and type of blower which was the Rotrex C38R and the way the kit was set up. You won't see anything similar with other kits despite throwing everything at them (pulley mods, impeller mods, A2A conversions, etc.) because the powerband is on a whole different level.

Actually the reason all 3 psi levels are equal up to high mid range is solely due to our unique operation of bleeding boost.

The 10psi map would normally not make 10psi until 7500rpm and therefore have lower numbers throughout. Yet here we see that the 10psi hangs with the 17psi power wise until the bov opens at 10psi somewhere around 4.5k where the other higher boost maps starting climbing away.

So 10psi on this kit will always have a better looking graph than another centrifugal charger at 10psi because we see all that boost ramp in the mid range instead of not getting to 10 until 7500.

So essentially the blowers are pushed hard until the BOV opens at their respective boost levels? Would we be able to play with this further if we wanted to push the graph to the left even further?

This isn't 100% exact, but still a good illustration of what is happening and comparing the different boost "maps" Also added a typical TT for comparison.

A traditional "normal" centrifugal SC setup will choose a pulley for desired max psi IE 10 psi pulley will make 10 psi at 7500rpm, but only about 4.5psi at 3.5k rpm.

The topgunz kit will make about 23psi at 7500rpm, letting it make 10psi at 3.5k rpm. if you targeted 10psi the entire time you would bleed off through the BOV the excess boost over 10psi, so at 7500rpm you would be bleeding off about 13psi. your boost would follow the orange line until it hit the green line then follow the green line to redline.

at 3.5k rpm you are making 5.5psi more vs a traditional centrifugal SC setup which will result in a lot more torque/power in the mid range.

or compare orange to green following green vs the blue line, all the area in between those lines is the extra boost you are making through the entire curve despite both setups making 10psi peak.

and then you obviously have way more headroom to turn up the topgunz kit if desired without needing pulling changes.

This is what I'm really interested in.

What would the psi of the "Standard" pulley be?

With my current setup/tune I could keep my map exactly same on a 16psi pulley and not be spinning the SC as much all the time.

That definitely cleared some things up for me thank you :tup:. I like that you included a graph for comparison!

I am interested in this as well, will the pulleys vary in size?

Pretty cool illustration. That's a big area there that shows where the kit shines. All that for under $7k kit cost. ; )

Also, for some reason my dried out covid brain (that F'n sucked) forgot I have tons of graphs from the vortech kits I can use as a comparison. I can't now from my phone but when I get back on the shop laptop I'll post some great comparisons of centrifugal graphs.

Not sure if this graph will help any one out. My tuner was was a bit unfamiliar of how to bleed off boost on this setup. Took four tries before he got it figured out.This was on 93 and as you can see the S/C appears to kick in at about 3700 or so.he had a boost cut at 15 psi and was getting it dial in at about 9.5. So first four runs peak boost of 15 psi at about 5500 to 5700 rpm.Last run was finally at 9.5psi.

Guys please keep in mine that when you are getting on it your cars rpm will drop down to 5000 to 5500 hundred depending on the gear.So Any power behind that is something you will never really use unless your in first gear.This is where you guys with rev match transmission can shine because of boost by gear. No boost on first gear would be great because who can really run 600whp in that gear without spinning. Unless you have a killer setup. Anyway everyone has different goals so come the different views. Hopefully this graph helps on how this efficient this kit is. Almost forgot the whp is predictable with more psi but we noticed the torque curve hold way longer(doesn't drop off)throughout the powerband.

Forgot to mention that he was still getting the afr on point that way the graphs very a bit