I just want to see more videos of these kits in action…. I’ve only seen the ones from Birdiev (sp) on his YT page… needZ moar’er vid’jas

Besides a trans cooler and an ATF to coolant heat exchanger, nothing at the moment. Running 11psi on E40 at the moment. Holding fine for now.

Debating on my options, if your end goal isn't over 600whp then the VR30 trans swap is a great option.

https://www.godzillaraceworks.com/te...ur-zg-platform

they can make it pretty much a plug and play direct swap over.

Is that the stock heat exchanger in the radiator you are talking about, or an additional atf to coolant one you added outside the radiator, on top of the trans cooler. How large a trans cooler?

I've been caught waiting on HTG to make DTC tuning more approachable, and in the meantime, unsure if I would hate myself for getting this kit installed and running, and potentially overheating, overtaxing my 7AT at the track.

EDIT: VR30 trans swap is tempting in the meantime, but would be a lot of extra money and effort if I end up being able to DCT swap later this year.

I just got their aluminum driveshaft for the swap, but am likely holding on that build until I put the Roadster away for fall this year. They were great to deal with and very responsive over email. Still waiting on my Vortech Si impeller upgrade and I don’t want to sacrifice any warm weather driving due to build/tune not being complete.

Custom external heat exchanger setup. Not the radiator one, although that is still in use.

Trans Cooler is relatively small. IIRC 2”x5”x12” 10 row with 4 44cfm fans on a thermostat switch, also have a thermostat fluid control valve to mostly bypass the cooler until warm.

There is no real heat exchanger/ warmer like in a lot of cars including newer Q50/Q60. The sliver in the rad does basically nothing. If you monitor trans temps they take forever to warmup in normal driving. My setup has drastically improved trans warm up time.

I wouldn’t hold my breath on DTC swap. I was under the impression it was a lot more work to DTC swap an auto then it is for an MT and the DTC swaps being worked on are for MT cars. But maybe things have changed.

Well don't have to worry about the auto trans any more. Just traded my 12 touring AT for a 14 sport/ touring 6spd with 35k miles. :driving:

Didn't want to get to off topic here so I made a thread in new z owner if anyone wants to see pics and more info on the new z.

In light of COBB's recent announcement, and rumors of Ecutek to follow.

Any update on different pulley sizes?
I believe the changes may prevent the evap purge solenoid from being repurposed for controlling boost.

Add a Wastegate and remove the need to control boost via the EVAP purge solenoid. I made this change and it seems to be more consistent.

That is a possible alternative people may have to do in the future if needing a tune/retune.


My setup has no issue holding 10psi low boost map or 11psi high boost map to redline at the moment. But good to know you aren’t getting boost creep on a wastegate.

You may be better off with a fixed boost/pulley size anyways honestly. What you gain in low end torque from hitting peak boost earlier in the powerband you lose by decreased efficiency beyond that. This isn't a turbo where you are just bleeding off the excess wasted combustion anyways, you are making the engine work harder by spinning the supercharger at a certain rpm producing a specific CFM, by bleeding off the excess you are essentially wasting "work", also position of the wastegate/bypass valve matters as well, hopefully it's pre-intercooler.

Yes that has always been my thought process, it does make 10lbs of boost by about 4k rpm whereas a 10psi pulley would only be making about 5.5psi at same rpm. So you’d end with same peak power but the current pulley setup will make way more power across the entire powerband.

Typically a general rule is 1psi add 6.7% more power but takes about 1.7% power away to create that psi with a supercharger. Generating 20+psi but only using 10psi isn’t very efficient but the supercharger spinning lets say 50k rpm with zero back pressure or in this case 10psi, is a lot easier than doing it against 20+ psi of back pressure so it’s not quite as inefficient as it initially seems, but still could be better optimized.

I always thought a 16psi pulley would be a good middle ground in still being able to hit about 10-11psi by 5500rpm and then flatline it only bleeding about 5psi at redline vs 13psi or so now.


I am already tuned so if I do retune it might be because of a built block and then I’ll be making max boost anyways. But who even knows timeline on if/when ecutek is following suit to COBB.

What wastegate are you using and where did you mount it? There's not much room in there!

I don't have the specs on the wastegate with me but it is a Tial.

Thanks. I just got mine tuned @ Dynosty. I'm very happy w/ the power :happydance:, but I'm definitely having the periodic power cut due to the safety factors in the tune, which Hal warned me might happen. The tune was just yesterday, so they've not yet had a chance to address it.

I gave the Ecutek Boost Control it's fair shake. In the end it seemed like it should work in theory but didn't really work that great in practice. Got a lot of safety cuts for overboost/boost spike on hard pulls. Since the WG installed I've had no boost spikes or safety cuts. It seems like a solid addition to the TopGunz Kit.