Iat’s?


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10 degrees over amibent. The ducting works. Compared to 40 without

so what happen, if you want to say ok if not :)

So. This was my first time getting the car on Sebring. This was a good shakedown to see how the cardboard ducting was going to hold up vs not running on back in April. The duct tape and cardboard works, IAT’s were around 10-15 above amibent temperatures. Oil temps still get hot but not as quickly, so the oil cooler will have to be moved to side with its own ducting. Main issue is the coolant, temps were spiking within 1/2 lap, I had a warning once it reached 230 degrees. I’m going to put the car on jack stand again, bleed it out to get rid of all the coolant and replace it with 100% distilled water and water wetter, also removing the radiator shroud. Going to increase the hole in the front bumper. Nexen sport R tires are insanely good, I didn’t get a chance to push them that hard due to overheating, but coasting around the track the car managed to hit a 2:40 at one point in time. I’ve got some great data to go off and continue to keep trying things until I run out of options. Next test date is Nov 17 at the firm, and back to Sebring Dec 10 and Jan.

Waiting on a new fuel line, oil cooler bracket, SS brake lines. Once all that is installed, flushing the radiator for distilled water, water wetter, and 5-10% coolant

Education please, what is an IAT?
:tiphat:

Inlet Air Temperature - higher the IAT, the less dense the air entering the engine and if not compensated for by reducing fueling, the engine runs rich which reduces power.

Even if the ECU fuel/IAT map reduces fuel (to reduce emissions from unburnt fuel), it will kill power generated.

So, high IAT is "not good" for max power.

Lower IAT will give you more grunt - thats why early in a cool spring morning, your car "runs better".

FI compresses the inlet charge and that heats it up, so therefore you need to run an intercooler to reduce IAT, but in high ambient temps about the best you can hope for is reducing IAT's to a few degrees above ambient.

Hope that explains it

On my 14th lap. Set a pb. On this short track, it’s very tough to lay down the power. Having either awd or a well sorted Na car is very tough to keep up with. To give a comparison in turn one ssfirehawk is floor around turn 1 vs me just tipping the throttle

Your turbo is too small. This is the exact same problem Hotrodz had with his Fast Intentions stage 1 turbo kit. I have driven the older stage 2 turbo kit and those turbo's are already on boost at 3k. My larger turbo's I can modulate the boost with my right foot in a turn. They are more controllable. Go up a gear and see if you can make it work that way. You don't need to be screaming at 6-7000 rpm's. You have a much wider powerband, use it.

You can try to go to a larger exhaust housing and see if that will give you more control.

Try to get your turbo's to spool up/Tip in to be around 4000-5000rpm. You can use your gear selection to make sure you are right below tip in in the corner. Doing it this way will allow you to control the boost with your right foot in the turn.

That’s not it, it was strictly driver error

Some footage of the track day.

Back out to Sebring in a week, hopefully it goes just as well as the firm

Sebring went well, I can confidently say I figure out overheating with a boosted VQ at moderate power levels. I know what needs to be done to keep up with cooling as power increases even on hot days.