At this point OEM/known working good all the way. No use introducing another variable.

Even on a NA build it is only 3 or 4 horsepower by itself. Not worth it when you are boosted even with the supporting mods as everything else will out preform the contribution of larger throttle bodies.

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You guys must be talking about the 70mm TBs. Maybe he was looking at 120mm.

Just need something like this lol
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/q7sAA...IeE/s-l225.jpg

He is doing OEM.

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Noop, Factory Nissan parts. No need for forced induction.

By the way, these suckers are not cheap. Thank goodness I still get good prices at where I use to work. There is also a core charge for brand new factory units.
I guess Nissan rebuilds them and offer them on their value line.

I hope this fixes the problem. I am 90% sure it will. If not, that is one less thing to worry about.

Fingers, toes and eyes crossed for ya, man. :tup:

I just wanted everyone to know I will be doing good to get the new TB's to MA on Thursday. If by some chance they get them on the car and the lazy/Flat running issue is resolved I will be happy. If they can get the car on the Dyno Friday an confirm the car is good and get some numbers, I will be very happy. If they do, do not expect to see it at Zdayz. All the fine tuning will need to be done with cold starts, hot starts, etc. No since in rushing it now.

New throttle bodies are in my hands. Will be shipping them out this afternoon.

Everything is setup for the car to be back on the rollers Friday. UPS don't screw me now. I hope this fixes the issue.

the trouble with the vvel is that to set it properly you don't need a consult3 but you do need to to have the actuators in the correct position before setting the sensors. this is typically achieved using the plastic assembly hold fixtures that ship on new vvel actuator assemblies but other methods can be used. then from a fresh assemble the car is powered up with the motors disconnected so that the vvel control module doesnt move them out of postion while monitoring the voltage from each position sensor and setting it to the correct value per fsm. all you do with the consult is open that log channel. once the sensors are calibrated you plug the motors back in so the vvel can start working. plugging in the motors and turning the ignition on before setting the sensors base reading will move the vvel system out of mechanical position which wil move the position of the sensore once calibrated. That is the sole reason nissan tells you to throw out the actuators any time you take them, or their sensors off the motor, and to never run the calibration twice as when not from a fresh assembly you can not control the base position of the vvel system. to be clear when the ignition turns on the control module commands the vvel motors to sensor zero so if the sensor are not in the correct position it will move the actuators to match where the sensors are set now and no amount of performing the calibration procedure will help. unless the changed the software passed 2013 last time i had hands on vvel engine that still used actuators was a long time ago.

MA has done many of these. I have to think they have it down. My current issue is a problem that I had before I took the car to them. The car would feel flat and lazy. It was if I was only getting partial throttle. Shut the car off and cranked it back up. Same issue. First time I wiggled the connector on the drivers side throttle body. Cranked the car back up and I was good to go. Second time I wiggle just the cable. No change. Wiggled the connector, good as gold. 4th time I disconnected the drivers side throttle body connector. Plugged back in and all was good. It would only happen in the summer months on the way home from work. No codes, check engine light, Nothing. If the new throttle bodies doesn't fix the issue it has to be an issue with the VVEL. I will be stuck in TURBO BUILD HELL.

You mentioned wiggling the cable and connector to fix the problem. Are you sure it's not a cable/connector issue, not the throttle body itself?

I am about positive. I looked over the connectors in the cable really good. I didn't see any pushed back. They all appeared to be normal. I have diagnosed many a wiring harness issue. It is the first thing I looked at. The only way to say for sure NO is to go up to MA and looked at it myself. I was trying to avoid that. It did cross my mind.

By the way, when I worked as a tech for Nissan, wiring issues, chronic check engine lights, broke wires in harnesses, etc was my specialty. I always got those cars. None of this stuff is new to me except for the VVEL system.

I figured it was something you had looked at and had pretty much ruled out but I had to ask. I've overlooked some of the most obvious things before.