I had an idea about how to get around the pressure build up if both plugs are plugged up with non-vented plugs in the self-contained V3 blowers!

If the pressure inside that builds up in the blower works like a soda can to where once pressure is in there it won't be released or dissipate until there is an opening, then my idea is worthless.

If the pressure inside that builds up is mainly because of heat only just like the radiator caps -- then maybe I could put the shipping plug to replace the vented plug, do a few hard pulls, then wait a bit until car is cooled off --> then take out the plug to release the pressure lol. Idk. What do you guys think?

Just a thought.

Either that or ... resort to making a custom catch can or something, or a barbed fitting that's the same size as the vent plug and use that barb fitting to connect to a container to catch all the oil that spills out while having that can relieve any pressure up top of the can as breather holes, idk haha.

What do you guys think? Thoughts?

Have you tried running it at constant high RPM's for 5 to 10 mins on a track?
If so I'd love to know why oil isn't coming out of the breather.
No oil comes out of mine when giving it quick bursts on the street but the track is a different matter.

The car hasn't been on the track so it's possible that it could be an issue. But I didn't build my car to be a track car so I'm not concerned. I'm am getting ready to pull the sc to send to 928 and I'll be doing some additional upgrades. I've got my fingers crossed that the upgrades don't cause the oil slinging.

Good luck with that!

I may just keep my car stock ... dealing with all of the issues I read could be too much of as hassle for me!

Welcome to boost life lol.

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07/01/2018 UPDATE
------------------------
ECUtek tuning by Eugene (ByThaBay) is going very well utilizing Full Speed-Density Tuning!
We are communicating with each other and as I send him data logs, they are analyzed and he makes necessary changes to make the car run nearly perfect while daily driving on the Z in the whole low RPM range, going up and down hills, curves, etc. I believe this is hard to achieve -- a very solid and nearly perfect adjustments as far as timing and air/fuel ratio so that it is not running too lean or too rich; but rather right on point nearly 100.

My long term fuel trims are around 98 average on the low side, and 103 - 105 on the high side which to me, since the target is to stay as close to 100 as possible...I feel extremely safe with his tuning and the way my car runs as I believe what made my car go kaboom back in Feb was partly the car running too lean and eventually it went kaboom!

Anyways, my car has a break in of 695 miles at the moment and I just started driving it last Saturday as well. About 7 days in and I'm nearly 700 miles! Wow!!!
~50 more miles and Eugene and I will be able to test the higher RPM ranges and make necessary air flow, timing, and Air/Fuel ratio adjustments up there. It will be exciting!

Stay tuned folks!

I really hope your 928 upgrades do not cause any oil coming out.
I have some tiny oil splashes still occurring in my vehicle for unknown reasons still.
It is appearing on the strut bar after a daily drive somewhere, and I don't know how it's happening so I will try to pin point the spot on where it's coming from by taping a white piece of paper on the strut bar to see what color the oil or whatever liquid it is -- if it is red then it is definitely coming from the supercharger, if it is black then that is most likely engine oil. If it is colorless then I don't know lol.
***************

Hi guys. Here is an unfortunate update I wanted to share with you as part of the timeline for this car and myself:

07/03/18 Update

Big Man upstairs was definitely watching over me. I got into a minor car accident on Highway 49. The only injury I caused was to my left wrist and hand. Car spun out like a merry go round while bouncing on the left curb throwing me to the right curb and landing perfectly in a parked position on the side if the curb with 3 tires left lol.
A good samaritan woman stopped and made sure i was okay. She asked if i had insurance and i said i was a AAA member. She called AAA for me and I got roadside assistance because of her help. Another person stopped by and said she can direct traffic so she put on a colored vest and started directing traffic lol more people supported and picked up the bumper pieces on the road and put it in the trunk. another person offered me 2 bottles of water. And the people called the sheriff as well. An ambulance happened to be passing by and stopped to make sure i was ok. They looked at my wrist and asked if i wanted to get it checked out but i said no at the time because i was still able to move it around. Now it swole do i cant really move it. AAApicked me up and i got dropped offat my mechanic shop with the car. i made an insurance claim and we will see how much the repair estimate is versus how much the car is worth on Thursday.

Sticky soft rear tires + stock tires in rwd = deadly combination, especially if the size of the tires are different in size by a couple inches or more....u lose traction so easily in the front tires so easily.

I thank God I am alive and that the engine is still healthy.
the subframe is bent and the drivers side knuckle snapped off with the ture lol you can see the small piece of metal sticking out of the bottom of the tire in one of the photos.

5 seconds later and i would have had no bigger wall to protect me and would have flung into the trees below, a bit further down the road.

The good Samaratin said she the car was still on when i landed after the dust clouds disappeared and thought I was going to take off until she saw the tire was off, and was like nope he isn't going anywhere for sure!! ... and that I came out of the passenger side dusting my car off LOL


===============================================


Now I'm prepping for a worst case scenario in case I need to sell the car or part it out.

I was wondering if you guys could help me with price checks on any of the following parts or the car as a whole.

- KW V3 @ 1k miles
- TopgunZ A2A Kit @ 875 miles
- v3 SCi blower shell @ 6k miles
- Full 928 internal upgrades @ 875 miles
- IPP Stage IV spec engine w/ RJM closed deck @ 875 miles
- Quaife LSD 1.0 @ 1.5k miles
- MT Street S/S tires 305-35-19 @ 80 miles
- 9psi pulley @ 875miles
- 3.0" SC pulley s 875 miles
- Magnaflow exhaust
- Fresh AFR sensors x2
- NGK DILKAR8A8 SparkPlugs @ 875 miles
- Stillen Manifold @ 6k miles
- ATI 5.5" Super dampr street crank pulley @ 875miles
- 1050x ID plug & play @ 875 miles
- OEM Timing Chain Kit @ 875miles
- YellowTop Optina Battery @ 875 miles
- Brand new VVEL LH & RH @ 875 miles
- 4Bar Omni Sensor @ 875miles
- High pressure Radiator cap @ 875miles
- ECUtek bluetooth dongle & License @ 875 miles (license activated June 24th, 2018)

ECUtek tuned by Eugene (ByThaBay / Enthusiast Auto Care). Car runs nearly perfect. Paid tor a full speed density tune, so if car is bought, you will have full 110% support from him for tuning! Just needs to tune in the high RPMs as the lower RPM tuning is nearly flawless!

- Optional extra 6 spark plugs same as ones in car ATM
- Optional e85 Zeitronix Sensor Kit
- Everyth else @ ~41k miles

Please and thankyou!! Would be much appreciated

The car, after a quick visual inspection needs:
(1) New front crossmember
(2) All new front suspension (minus the KW V3's that are still in place)
(3) New hub brake lines
(4) New rotors on front driver side
(5) New lower oil pan since it got smashed up and the pickup definitely got smashed
(6) New passenger airbag since it got deployed (I can just buy a used passenger seat with an unused airbag in it which is really cheap)
(7) New front bumper & Back Bumper (Can get them used)
(8) Replacement OEM side skirts? Didn't even know the car had those but okay
(9) Unknown factors because they didn't take a close inspection look yet; but will do that today and I will update this later once they do a damage assessment later today.

Everyth else is fine lol


*** I have plenty of people interested in the motor already ; assuming it still works. I did turn on the car right after the accident, and it was still working and turning on fine, so I assumed the car was still healthy. It wasn't for long periods of time that I kept the car on though. This was before I knew the lower oil pan was smashed upward which, now that I know that, I won't be turning on the car anymore since it could starve the engine of oil as the pickup is smashed badly. Hopefully there is no harm done to any aftermarket parts -- which from what I saw and what they saw so far before doing a close inspection, there was no harm done. But we will find out soon enough and I will keep you guys updated ***

Thanks <3

What a bummer! Glad you're alive man. This has to be tremendously disappointing for you.

Glad to see that you came out relatively unscathed, could have been a whole lot worse. Also, sorry to see your car in that condition. Hopefully it's not so bad off that it can't be fixed. If you decide to part out, I might be interested in your sc. When you sort things out and if you decide to part out, let me know.

Again, sorry to hear about your unfortunate situation.

Thanks man, I appreciate the support. It helps more than you think!

I will definitely let you guys know what's up when I hear from the insurance and what they will do.

Then we will have a solid idea on what happens.

I hope I can keep the car though as it is, as it's my first car I've ever purchased and I told myself when I bought it -- It would be my last car lol.

I wanted it to last 300k+ miles as a monster DD so I said I'd take care of it no matter what...but maybe that may not be the case. Who knows.

Fingers crossed! X

That car should definitely not be totalled. I have the whole driver side piece that broke if you want to fix it yourself! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6bff6eade8.jpg


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I forgot to report to you guys that the side curtain airbag was deployed actually -- way expensive to restore correct?

Nop, it's about $150-300 used online and then you need a new airbag module. Should be 800 total and takes an hour or two to swap. let me know if you need any help!


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Thanks. I will keep that in mind.
I wonder if I could tell the insurance not to fix the side airbag and leave it be lol or do they have to fix that

You sure because I saw a previous past thread about side curtain passenger side airbag get deployed and said the cost was 5k to redo it from dealership but that was years ago.

I've seen instances where the insurance just hands you a check to fix the car at whatever shop you like. You can fix it yourself and save the rest.


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I hope thats the case.
I can defs save money and have the important things fixed.
Like a new or used front cross brace.
New or used subframe
New or used knuckle and front suspension
Lower oil pan smashed upward when tire fell off cause thats what the car was sitting on, so the oil pickup is most likely damaged.
One of the back tires is messed up, rim is messed up as well but the other is fine on the back.
Side airbag I hope I can fix
Passenger airbag also deployed so that I can just get a new or used seat with unused airbag

...More news to come later or early next week...

Good luck man! Like a lot of people have said here, you can always buy the car back and repair it yourself for most likely cheaper than you get quoted by a company. The community will always be here to help!

Im hoping my insurance company will just hand me a set amount check and let me deal with the reparations. That would be a win win for me and the insurance company. They save money by letting me get parts for a low price from the lovely Z family everywhere and I get my car back for less than what they may quote.

why wouldnf a business take advantage of that

I believe it has something to do with the certification of the car. The shops chosen by the insurance company are trusted to return the car to its pre-accident condition and certified to ensure the car meets safety standards. I've never been in the insurance business though, so that could be completely off.

Damn okay. Well only like 6 or less hours left or so before I hear back from the adjuster, I really think he will say total it ... if so then I will punch him in the face and tell him to rethink that lol. Jk I won't do that lol just in my head...xD

Ill try my best to see if he can work with both more and the shop to come up with aviable plan top keep the vehicle And if so, what are the conditions.

Keep you guys posted!!

Fingers crossed.

More than likely your car will be totaled. If so, make sure you get the car back so you can part it out or move everything from it to a newer Z. I am not sure what you did to loose it but you have put yourself in a major bind.

maybe. if they want to total it then they will pay me out for it? and i can buy it back ?
unless it's cheaper to just keep it and decline the totaling, and just buy the necessary repair items, and have my mechanic shop out it back together, while just leaving or the side curtain airbag and just switching it back up, maybe I could be okay..?

Or they offer me a lump of money to fix it and if it's within their amount then maybe...?xD

If they don't total it they should give you a choice between a preferred or certified shop or a shop of your choosing to do the work. Most insurance companies will pay for those exterior parts that were on the car before the accident and oem for everything else. The shop send them a parts list with cost associated with it and then they cut you a check. Certified shops have a set labor price that they charge the insurance company. You can always ask your shop to solicit your insurance carrier to become certified as well.

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Damn. Well luckily my shop is very flexible about this stuff. I dont know how well they do in handling insurance claims but hopefully they know how to deal with them correctly.
They are willing to defs work with me on letting me source the parts needed, I know that much is for sure.
I also know that they are willing to do the repairs and afe capable of doing an excellent job as well.

The only thing they dont do is stitching of seats cloth or airbag replacement setups that I know of.

Anyth mechanical I trust them on.
And they have taken care of me very well so far.

I am glad the only thing that was hurt was your pride for the most part and that everything else works out the way you want it too.

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When it comes to the airbag, do it right. Don't halfass it or just leave it out. Next time it could save your life.

If you do not replace them then add a good six point roll bar. Again don't cheap out on it.

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You have a point there.
I will definitely put a replacement passenger seat with an unused airbag. And Ill see what I can do about the side airbag or a roll cage, whichever is cheaper

:facepalm:

Cheap shouldn't be a consideration. You've dropped a LOT of money on go-fast parts. Keeping your *** alive shouldn't be where you shop based on price. A cage sounds like a good idea, but do you want to drive around with a helmet all the time? Hit your head on one of those bars in a fender bender and you could end up a vegetable.

Ok nope. You got me.
Ill go replace all the airbags, I think I may know someone who can do it right too.
Just waiting for the phonecall to occur from the adjuster.

Who knows I might just decide to part it out or better yet sell the entire car to someone who may want it as a whole, and buy a diff car, keep it stock just work on the cosmetics haha

I bought a RPM 4 point roll bar not to long after boosting my car just have the extra protection. They also make a 6 point that doesn't include the front bar that Chuck is talking about and is why I suggested a 6 point. I suggest that anyone that is boosted get at least a good 4 point roll bar because upside down is no good period.

You were pretty smart about how you went about building your car, now go after keeping yourself safe in the same way. We aren't hating on you just trying to support you in saying safe while enjoying your creation.

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Something like that would be a good option. I just see too many people put full cages in their cars without giving a thought to what the front hoop would do to their skull if the two met at speed.

:iagree:

[QUOTE=Hotrodz;3769587]I bought a RPM 4 point roll bar not to long after boosting my car just have the extra protection. They also make a 6 point that doesn't include the front bar that Chuck is talking about and is why I suggested a 6 point. I suggest that anyone that is boosted get at least a good 4 point roll bar because upside down is no good period.

You were pretty smart about how you went about building your car, now go after keeping yourself safe in the same way. We aren't hating on you just trying to support you in saying safe while enjoying your creation.

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thanks i tried to be smart about the build.

:iagree: A full cage is for a full racecare...track only!

If they are going to take it and if the price to buy it back after their check given to me is too much then I will decline the totaling of the car and take car home and attempt to sell it whole.

Because a lot of the parts are still new, and taking into consideration the damage costs on it at the moment, which id probably about 8k I would estimate, Id sell it for 30 - 34k depending on certain minor factors (obv im open to negotiate).

But I think $30k - $34k is fair for the car as is.

[Build Thread] -- Journey to 700+ WHP [Supercharger]
 

Dude, $34k would be a stretch for it if it was running. Take a look at what boosted zs have sold for. It's depressing.

You will do better parting it out

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Only said that price cause everything on there is really low mileage xD