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The only difference between a stage 3 and 4 is the JWT **** and a 5 angle valve job versus 3. The only thing I see him doing differently is maybe using a tiny bit of lube when he screws you since you paid the extra $$$ haha. Seriously though, good luck with the build. If the motor does break don't bother sending it back to them, just get it looked at locally. No sense in paying to ship the motor across the country for a warranty that isn't honored in even the most obvious scenarios.
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Also worth mentioning, when they shipped my motor back after denying warranty, it was sent on a busted pallet and the motor was upside down. He may have been a big deal back in the 90's, kinda like Uncle Rico was back in HS, but based on my experience and what I've read here I think those days are long gone.
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Welp folks.
I'm already 6 feet deep in with IPP, I can only hope for the best. They are already starting to work on the assembly and machine work since this past Monday (Yesterday). He said it would all be done within 2 weeks time (By May 21st) I would assume, but hopefully it would be done by Friday, May 18 and then shipped out that weekend. His IPP name and reputation is on the line with this engine just as it is with any other engine he ships out and builds. But at the same time, I told him that I have a lot of people following my build (Thank you everyone!) and if it turns out well, and no issues -- then that can only look good for him. So hopefully he takes very good care of the engine during the building, shipping and machining process -- and that no issues arise! I will definitely post videos and pictures of the engine before it goes in, after, and when it's running, etc. Stay posted people!! It will either be a healthy monster of an engine, or an unhealthy exploding engine...haha. Remember, the core used for this was: - RJM Closed Deck Short Bare Block - Added VQ37HR Crank - Clean set of heads by RJM I chose closed deck because Kyle's shop does not build their engines closed -- only open. As soon as I learned that, I resorted to finding a closed deck ASAP and RJM was my solution. I didn't want blown head gaskets at 700 rwhp with the open block like a lot of others have warned me about so I decided...closed. Thanks everyone! :D Wish me luck! |
So it seems that with what we have coming there will be a lot to report. Cupcake your build and mine are definitely in the building at the same time. If we both have problems then it's consistent. I hope it's consistently good.
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I was told 10-12 weeks the March 8th. I haven't called I want to see when they call me but I'll start getting antsy here in two weeks. Kinda sucks because I can't get a hard date to do the install and the shop I'm using is always packed but they're trying to help me out by staying fluid.
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Dang. Gotcha lol Well I hope you are able to get positive results and me too, :/ |
Quick Update on my IPP Engine:
I e-mailed Kyle this morning asking if they were still on track to finishing and completing the engine by the end of this week or not. He replied, and said: "I called the machine shop this morning already to check and they are shooting to have it done by the end of this week or no later then Monday for me to have it done and shipped out." Yay. Getting closer to shipping it out and then the engine swap process begins!!! So excited. I also recently purchased a pair of rear Mickey Thompson Street S/S 305-35-19 tires with a pair of 19x10.5 rims from a company called NS-Wheels ;; NS Wheels is their website. I haven't heard of them but I decided to give them a try as their website looks legit. |
Update:
IPP has finally finished building and assembling the Stage IV closed deck engine. They shipped it out today via UPS Freight. It will reach my mechanic shop in 3 - 4 days (By this Thursday / Friday) -- 5/24 - 5/25! Last week, He did something really cool as far as customer service goes. RJM apparently did not send / forgot to send bolts for the crankshaft that was sent with the closed deck block and set of heads I ordered from FL, and so when IPP saw there was no bolts with the crankshaft, he went ahead and ordered the needed bolts from Nissan. At first he said it would take 3 - 5 days shipping, but he did not want to wait that long and decided to next-day air mail deliver it to his shop which I thought was an extra step he did not have to take! He also didn't make me pay for them either, or the next-day air mail shipping. They finished the build in 2 weeks time ; as they had all of the parts for it and was just waiting for an excellent core to build from which I ordered from RJM. From my experience with IPP so far, Kyle has been excellent in regards to the customer service he provided me. He replied to 99.99% of my e-mails that I sent him in a timely manner (Within 0 - 3 hours average response time) during his operation hours. He has answered every single one of my questions along the way, never got upset or mad about me always e-mailing him. He also took the extra step to air-mail the bolts needed that RJM was missing when they sent the crankshaft. I will continually update this thread with regards to how the build goes, the engine swap, and the best part when I tune it is I will post up the data logs of it for everyone to see! I choose not to dyno my car because for one, the super sticky 305/35/19 MT tires I ordered says not to use those tires on the dyno machine, and two, I think the real test on how the vehicle performs as a whole is through the actual streets / highways I drive on. At the end of the day, it either IS or ISN'T going to have X power / TQ! Stay tuned folks! The good part is just about to begin very soon (: |
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Enviado desde mi CLT-L29 mediante Tapatalk |
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I don't really care for dyno sheets, haha. If I have room to store the rear stock tires and wheels I'll keep them otherwise I'll attempt to sell them. They are running out of tread anyways, which is the other reason why I needed / wanted to swap them out xD On another note! I got confirmation that the estimated delivery will be this Thursday for the engine by the end of the day instead of Friday! I'll tow my car along with all of the various boxes of upgrades to the shop that will perform the engine swap this Thursday -- going to be exciting~! |
I've had the GTM twin SC since 2013.
I've had 3 pulley / idler failures, bearings went and the the belts disintegrate - then I take it all apart - clean up the melted belt rubber, replace the failed pulley or idler, put it back together, etc., etc. I track the car (20 min sessions) and do not think I'd have these failures if it was just daily driving / hard driving / thrashing. I'm thinking of going turbo as there's fewer moving parts i.e.) fewer pulleys & belts. Heat management has also been an issue - I've added the large GTM oil pan, vented hood, run water & water wetter, and recently deleted my 34 row air to oil cooler and added instead the largest Laminova oil cooler (coolant to oil) that exists - all these mods have improved cooling but I still over heat after 10 - 15 min of track time - and have to take a slow lap to get the temps back to an acceptable level. Does SC add more heat to the system and turbos do? Does any one think turbo is more reliable for track days? |
You definitely dont want dyno with the MT. I dont know if it fits but u can just switch your back tires with the fronts and put the MT's upfront for the dyno.. ive seen this done regularly here on other cars.
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Superchargers definitely run much, much cooler than turbos. Turbine housings will glow red from the heat and if you had proper airflow across a supercharger you could put your hand on it. Turbo's also require a cooling source where SC's just need a lubrication source. Therfore a turbo will feed more heat back into the system either through oil, coolant or both. Top mount turbo's will produce a lot of engine bay heat, twin turbos will also as heat rises up into the bay except where when your moving it should escape bettter. Then theres the BP kit that mid mounts it where all of the heat escapes. Even in the best scenario you wouldnt be gaining anything from a heat management point by going to a turbo setup. *Edit*. Now you have me thinking that the parasitic drag from not only 1 but 2 superchargers must be pretty intense. Possibly the extra amount of heat the engine produces to overcome the drag is creating more heat than a different kit. |
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Otherwise Ill need to cash in that warranty lol |
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Only 1 person working on it. so the full engine swap + added additional upgrades will probably be done by the end of next week haha Ill keep you all posted |
Update on Engine Status:
Lol. My mechanic said this about my engine: So just a heads up, a lot of this stuff we're gonna want to take to the machine shop to have hot tanked. We're finding metal everywhere! Inside the intake manifold as well *No the manifolds are fine just metal scraps and shavings everywhere inside The way the pcv system works it pushes in oil vapor back into the intake which then turns back into liquid, so the intake manifold and piping is oily (perfectly normal) and all the metal sticks to the oil inside. Hot tank is like high pressure very hot steaming water with some chemical additives. |
Aftermath of what the old engine looks like and how horrendous the damage dealt is.
Lower oil pan is a soup full of scrap metal & a valve LOL. I couldn't upload the pics directly from my phone for some reason. http://imgur.com/a/SRtwnbF You can see a crack and a hole from what the rod did: http://imgur.com/0CNwAAt I also was recommended to purchase a brand new OEM timing chain kit, so I did -- Mechanic said with this high profile of a build he recommended a brand new timing chain kit since he has seem them fail in other Zs before. I also had to buy a brand new OEM Gasket Kit for the manifolds and such. |
*OP Thread is updated -- at the bottom of the post, you will see images of some of the horrendous damage from the aftermath after the rod exploded*
Check them out guys! It's terrible XD *Also updated timeline, for those of you interested in how things are going lately! Updated to date!* I try my best not to leave any good / bad detail out. That way when people read it, they can get an unbias point of view on how the build journey went. |
Good luck to you and your journey...
I hope your block does not blow up like other IPP blocks have. It sounds like Kyle from IPP has really good customer service though from your experience. It could be because your build is very expensive and that his name is behind that block, so he wants to make sure it is utmost taken care of on his part. But it is good to see that he has very nice customer service. Sounds like you are getting close though. Sub'd! |
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Images of the A2A install that was done today!
(Yes this means the engine is fully in there, and that my baby will be ready to fire up tomorrow!!! Just a few things missing) --> I spend the entire day at my mechanic's shop Affinity Performance and he installs the A2A kit. We ran into a few issues but it was quickly solved with the help of TopgunZ support as well as KowKow's support. It could not have been finished without their help today. One issue we ran into was replacing the jackshaft supercharger 3.2" stock pulleys with a 3.0" and a 3.47" using the same belt. This was no beuno. It was found that custom spacers were needed as well as a slightly longer belt -- as the total area for the stock belt is fitted to about 6.4" with +/- of like .2 inches or so. We ended up taking TopgunZ advice and not using the 3.47" pulley but only using the 3.0" pulley paired with the 3.0" pulley and keeping the stock idler pulley as well. According to Topz this should bring in about 13 psi max with the full 928 upgrade package for my V3 blower as well, and the idler pulley on the serpentine side. TopgunZ said if I wanted to make more power then I would have to either take off the filter on the blower to make ~16psi or...instead of dealing with custom spacers and a new belt to make the 3.47" fit, just use a 2.85" SC pulley as well as a 3" idler pulley paired with the current 3.0" SC pulley to make more PSI. I loved that idea and I will definitely document that for future reference when I do decide to make more PSI! <-- --> The next issue we ran into was deleting the front bumper support because of the brand new intercooler that came with the kit. It was found that to put it back on we would need to modify things but I chose to just leave it off. <-- --> Issue #3: We had a question about the PCV delete and how that would affect or not affect the engine in the long run. I read on the g37 forum that the PCV delete is not healthy for the engine but there was no explanation given. My tuner said it wasn't healthy for the engine either. Maybe I will just install a special vacuum line just to circumvent the PCV delete issue, if needed at all in the future. Topz said it was fine since it was vented into the atmosphere. But I don't know, since I'm hearing all kinds of things from people I respect, I will try to do further research about this topic! <-- --> Issue #4: We found that as far as the overflow tank (reservoir tank), we have to either relocate the stock stillen SC overflow tank or use the stock stillen overflow tank and make a custom bracket for it since the tabs were deleted off for when the SC kit was initially installed. <-- --> Issue #5: Not a big one at all as soon as TopGunz supported us throughout the process with an answer to our question. Our question was how the heck do we fit the tiny filter into the tiny space on the blower??? Well, he said you put the filter on the blower AND THEN install the blower into the vehicle into the designated spot. Otherwise it is impossible to fit into that space. He also noted that each time you replace the filter, the blower needs to be removed which is fine. <-- --> As of today, there remains a few things left to do for the vehicle to be fully ready to fire up and all upgrades installed: (1) Install Fresh O2 Sensors (2) Install e85 Zeitronix Kit (even though I won't be using it until way later, might as well get it installed now) (3) Replace rear tires with the MT 305/35/19 Street S/S tires! *Super Sticky & Soft compound!* (4) Add all necessary fluids into the car (OEM Coolant, Oil, Supercharger Oil - 4oz, etc) (5) Put the High Pressure Radiator cap on! (6) Install 4 Bar Omni Sensor (If he didn't do that already, not sure) -- necessary for the A2A kit (7) Hook up the battery (8) Brand New VVEL RH & LH break in mechanical procedure since we don't have a console unit to do it for us xD After all those things it would be fully ready to put a base tune on which will be sent to me later today / early tomorrow. My tune is from Eugene (ByThaBay forum user). I will keep everyone updated!! (Yes this was also stated in the OP thread but I know not everyone reads long threads...haha) I just am so happy I want people to know! :D |
Glad you are nearing the end and its getting fired up tomorrow!
On issue #2. Are you talking about the bumper support or the hood latch support? The hood latch support is a small metal piece about 5 inches long. The bumper support is a giant compressed Styrofoam log. On #3. All other forced induction kits delete the PCV and run breather filters to atmosphere like I suggest. The only reason stillen has it recirculating back into the system is to pass CARB. On #4. You stated the use of stillen tank as an only option but the best option is to use the Factory overflow tank in the factory location. I am not a huge fan of the way the 45* coupler is coming off your intercooler. I know it can be tricky dialing that Y pipe in to fit just right (but much easier than routing turbo piping all over the place) , but Its possible. Cant you clock the Y pipe clockwise about an inch? That should alleviate that small bend in your 45*. |
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With the couplers, put some windex or a tiny bit of soapy water where you connect the coupler. That will allow it to move much more freely while you get everything loose-connected. It will allow you to maneuver out any kinks and then tighten everything down. The "lube" will dry, no big deal. That's what I did to ensure I didn't have any kinks in mine. |
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edit all fixed love you topgunz <3
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06/22/2018 Update
As we were finishing up the last touches on the Z engine rebuild, we ran into a few issues again that I want to share in case anyone else runs into them for any reason! (1) We had to check the transmission fluid levels to make sure they were good to go by pumping more than the maximum amount of tranny fluid into the tranny. The procedure was to pump it in, rev the engine at 1 RPM, hold it there to get it up to temperature to let the oil do its thing, and then raise the car, unplug it and let a stream of oil come out. I don't remember the exact details but we had to do this procedure about 2 - 3 times at different RPMs until the oil was leveled in there (when the liquid started to go from a smooth stream to drips). (2) Brand New VVEL procedures! We had to splice the gray and green wires and use a multi-meter, while adjusting something on the VVELs in the engine bay (a pain lol) until the Multimeter read 500 on bank 2. (Driver side). This is only needed to be done if you do not have a console or one of those expensive machines to do it for you -- this is the proper way to set up brand new VVEL RH & LH sides. Much easier with 2 people! We had to climb on top of the car engine bay edges to reach the top middle of the engine bay where the VVELs were located lol. Very annoying and tedious! Definitely not comfortable lol. (3) The blow off valve from TopgunZ kit is an open valve. It is not a recirculating valve. So if you are unfamiliar with these, and you start the car and see the valve open? It is perfectly normal and supposed to do that. So don't freak out like we did!! Thank you Topz for your support <3 (4) We did not put the front bumper Styrofoam back on lol. Definitely not going to fit with the A2A kit set up since there is alot of stuff in the front. We also located the BOV behind the intercooler bracket (bottom right) to fit the bumper back on because if it was in front, the bumper would not fit properly lol (5) I put a base tune on my car from Eugene (ByThaBay). He added a special feature where if the car is running too rich or too lean, you can use the cruise control button to adjust the volumetric efficiency in real time to compensate for whatever setup you have. It makes sure that the car is running correctly when it's running. If you look at the fuel trims, and they are too far off one way or another (Above 25% or Below 25% of 100) then you need to adjust the volumetric efficiency. This was a very cool feature that Eugene put in the tune and I have never heard of anyone or any tuner putting something like that in the way this one is. Really cool and makes me feel a ton more safer! Haha. My car, when checked, did not have any trouble codes, misfires, or any check engine lights, none of that!! It was just running phenomenal (: Considering all the things we did to it... I'm super happy it is running simple and clean. We made sure all the codes were on when tuning the base tune, and that nothing was disabled which should be noted as well!! (6) We had to add more power steering fluid because when I tried to turn the steering wheel with the car on, it would be very stiff. As he added fluid I turned the wheel all the way to the right, kept there a few seconds, then all the way to the left, held it there, and repeated until it got a bit softer. Overtime it will become softer as I drive it more which is good. It is definitely an arm work out! (7) The A/C fluid was drained when we removed the radiator and everything so this also needs to be recharged / refilled after a full engine swap. My car won't have A/C until I decide to fix it / recharge it again, lol. And it's summer! T_T (8) The Omni 4-Bar MAP Sensor from Specialty Z installed right into the OEM slot, which was easy -- no need to weld or anything crazy like that with this. (9) My wheels came in damaged so I called to get it returned and picked up by UPS and they will ship out another pair to me as a replacement, yay. (10) Had to make a custom bracket for the stock overflow tank because the tabs were cut off that originally held this -- which is natural when installing the stock Stillen Kit! |
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You're gonna wanna point that BOV the other direction. Lotta hot air comes out and its gonna heat up the IC.
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But it is now facing the correct way xD Thank you <3 |
06/23/2018 Update -- **VERY SAD**
My supercharger is leaking oil. Not sure where or why but it was leaking oil. Checked the dipstick and there's almost no oil left in it. Saw oil inside the hex bolt (not the oil dip stick side but the other side) saw it right below the supercharger seal / shaft area, saw it sprayed onto my strut bar, right below the supercharger belt, and pretty much everywhere on the drivers' side of the engine bay. the passenger side of the engine bay is all dry. i think i dont know what to do. i'm extremely depressed for a few reasons: (1) the guy who rebuilt my SC is not responding to my texts or calls; he shut off his phone after i tried calling him first and leaving a message, then now his phone is shut off so im sure he heard the message. he is a mobile mechanic, i didn't get a receipt which i should have, and so there's no proof that he did the work for me. i doubt he is going to fix it for me. (2) i dont know what part of the blower the leak is coming from. i believe it is coming from the shaft / seal and it may be a loose seal or something. i dont know. (3) I don't know of any reputable person or shop in the sacramento area that is capable of rebuilding or taking apart and looking at and fixing supercharger issues. that's why i turned to a mobile mechanic who did a good job for sure, it's just leaking somewhere but it was at least running fine. I understand errors happen but like, this made me extremely depressed. I almost just want to sell the car and go stock 4 door reliable nothing boosted nothing modded no nothing. -_- idk if i'm overreacting or not, but i'm pretty down in the slumps atm. |
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