And I'd not feel comfortable with having over 400 ft-lbs wtq on stock auto. Again, better safe than sorry. Also my two cents. ;)

You repeatedly state you want a safe daily driver yet you are still asking for numbers that are far above the average SC build. You need to choose what you want. Most guys are perfectly happy with 500whp and 400wtq. The guys that come into this forum are a vast majority of the guys that like to push it to the limits, including yourself. So your thought process is skewed. If you can't be happy with a safe "average" build then you are rolling the dice. If your willing to pay to play then go ahead and give her hell. Just don't hang your head low when something doesn't go your way.

No you're right - and you have a good point. I can't have A and B when A and B don't naturally go together. With that being said, I will say this:
- Whatever my car outputs after I get it back sometime this week and after the re-scheduling of the dyno day in mid January is what I will be happy with.

I think you're right. When I felt that E85 for the first time in combination with the current SC setup I have, I was really enjoying it and thought that I would be happy with whatever final result the dyno day in mid-january will leave me with.

If that means I'm rolling the dice then I'll take responsibility for it and go with it.

I've made a mental resolve that if this breaks again by some chance, then I will just move on, lol -- and either sell the entire car for what it is at that point for a really good deal to someone else or I will just part it out and sell the parts individually, pay things off then start from square 1 again with a different vehicle (this time I will do minimal modifications to it and if I do modifications, will do heaviER research before doing so) xD

Either way though, if I were to do it all over again, I would have to say no because I like all of the good things that came out with the bad events I put myself through!

So my car's FIRST DYNO DAY finally occurred today.

Huge Credit to: Eugene (My amazing tuner) + Adel (My amazing mechanic) for making this happen. I honestly don't know where I'd be without both of them in this journey!

The Good, the Bad, the Neutral Summary

o WHP: 442
o WTQ: 374
o P.S.I: 12.5
o RPM: 6200

o AFR on log: 12.2
o Corrected AFR: 8.5:1

o Supercharger Head Unit: V-3 Ti Centrifugal Self Lubricating Head Unit
o Crank Pulley Diameter: 5.75, Stock Crank Pulley
o Pulley Setup: 3.0" Direct SC Pulley || 3.2" Jackshaft SC Pulley || 2.87 (9psi) Jackshaft Serpentine Pulley || Stock SC Idler Pulley ||
o Engine: Stock Q50 Engine @ ~19k miles
o Transmission: Stock 7AT from 2015 370z Base Model @ ~54k miles

o Injectors: 1050x ID
o Fuel Type: E85, but more accurately, about E75 at the time
o Fuel System: || CJM S1-E || Zeitronix Ethanol Analyzer Kit || 525 Walbro ||

o Tuner: Eugene @ ECUTEK
o Mechanic: Adel (Only known person in CA who owns a G37 with Husam's GTR Twin Turbos)

o Location: Concord, CA
o Dyno Machine Owned By: The Racer's Line
o Temperature: 51 - 54 degrees Farenheit

Eugene limited the RPM's through the tune at 6200 because he found that the 1050x ID's on E85 (More accurately, about E75 content at the time) was maxing out well past 90% duty cycle if going past 6200 RPM's.

The car actually made 14 psi in the upper RPM's with the setup it currently has, but at the same time we ran into the issue of fuel running out in the upper RPM's so that's why what happened today and what the results is, is what it is, for safety reasons! :D

This is a problem, but a good problem for once! Just something I need to upgrade in the future if I want to have the car reach it's full potential with the last 1300 RPM's to play around with. The lower RPMs will stay the same regardless, so that's done and done!

Apparently the coupler on the supercharger headunit blew off during a pull so Adel had to come in and save the day to fix that issue, which he did.

We ended up using more time than planned for on the dyno machine only because of the mishap with the coupler and all that, but overall, I am extremely happy to have a working vehicle and to have a fairly fast vehicle for what it is at the moment, also knowing that it is way more capable and has more potential to be unlocked and played with if, and when, the injectors change from the current 1050x ID to 1300x ID.

I had a few options to work around the running out of fuel issue:
(1) Cap the rev limit through Eugene's tuning a tad above 6200 RPM and make the car as best as it can.

(2) Keep the 7500 RPM limit but take away timing, but actually this option is no good too because you can't lower timing if running out of fuel, as that won't help. The fuel needs to be at the right spots!

(3) Upgrade to better injectors and send it, but that is obviously not going to happen because of obvious reasons (on the clock for dyno time, don't have 1300 IDs on me or over there, and the install would take time as well, so this option was obviously not going to happen!

So I talked to a lot of respectable people and most said they would cap the rev limit and pretty much tune it to the best possible at that point, which is what we ended up doing and came up with these numbers!


Anyone have thoughts? comments? I think overall it went really well and just knowing that I have a vehicle with more potential is more than enough for me, haha.

For now, I will enjoy the car as is, take way better care of it once I get it back next week, and ... start being financially responsible once I get it back for the year of 2020!

So far, I think it's a great start for me for the year 2020 in terms of my vehicle, considering all the issues that it had in the last 2 years! :D

https://i.imgur.com/ch4hBu9.png

https://i.imgur.com/ClzGSbD.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8cyRvek.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/lO6ZCq9.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wzDKu8W.png

Good Job; graph has steady climb & potential 550whp in it :tiphat:

He might not...according to the lines

Duty cycle too high... I had Eugene tune my car too, and we never even bothered with e85 because I was already at 80% on pump gas!

I have 1050x and Walbro 485

Is your FPR Working? 442 WHP should not be needing 90% duty cycle. Hopefully you figure that out, but it sounds like maybe your fuel pressure is not raising at a 1:1 ratio.

I spoke with Eugene and he said:

It was checked. The duty cycle is around low 80s at 6200 RPM on e75. And with very reasonable fuel target. The increase in duty was also linear.

Fuel pressure isn’t something the ecu logs. Are you saying Eugene checked that your fuel pressure and FPR were working during the pull? I had to setup my phone to video the pressure gauge for him. And during the one 2nd gear pull I did, it looked like the rate was not rising 1:1 in my case, which might be my issue. Going to have it looked at on Monday.


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I didn't start maxing out my 1050x's and walbro 485 until I got into the 600whp range on e85.

He said the gauge in the engine bay is what was looked at, it was observed at during the pull by someone else other than him.

You may have been running out of fuel vs maxing out injectors :ugh2:
Bigger pump, lines, etc...gotta have plenty fuel available :hello:

He's got the walbro 525 and CJM S1.E rfs

This makes me wonder if ecutek is not reporting or receiving correct data. Bug? This makes no sense. If we saw AFRs drop below target, that would help with identifying such an issue. Something just not adding up.


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That’s a big pump :eek:
I know you gotta run it rich with the ethanol vs gasoline at wot :ugh2:

I had to go to CJM twin pump system when I got over 600whp (walbro 485/525).

:wtf2::icon14::wtf2:

Imagine trying to run Top-Fuel with a 1:1 AFR :icon14:

The pistons would probably melt on start up. :rofl2:

The plugs melt at half track, and from that point on. It's just a diesel. :icon14:

So I decided to take my car to SOHO Motorsports to figure out why my duty cycle was 80-90% on pump. Fuel pressure was about 41 psi at idle. They set it to 50 from what I hear, I think this what they normally set it at?? and re-tuned the car for pump. Duty cycle is now 60 or so, or in the 60’s, not sure. I don’t have logs, this was just a late night conversation at the shop after being awake more than 30 hrs so I wasn’t all there :). But we went from having a conversation when I first showed up very much like you had, talking about lowering rev limit, getting 1300’s, to there now being no issue with moving ahead with e85. Raising fuel pressure alone this amount does not account for this dramatic of a drop in duty cycle according to what I’ve read. In fact when I was still working with Eugene, I went to the trouble to try and figure out what it would take to go e85 based on my high duty cycle, and came up with it would take 64.5 psi at idle. If raising fuel pressure to 50 alone was a fix for all my fuel troubles, I think Eugene would have simply asked me to raise fuel pressure and we would have done some pulls. So, I think there may be something in either the tune or in how duty cycle is being calculated that’s not quite right. And BTW, this was in the 550 WHP and 425 TQ range.

yeah base pressure should be set around 52 with vac off no matter what, never lower, never higher.

Since my 41 psi was with vacuum line connected and engine running, would the gauge have registered more had I unplugged it? Wondering what effect it has with line connected vs not connected.


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yeah it would have came up a few psi, once you have vacuum on it, it drops a tad. with mine set at 52 , once i connect vac it drops to around 48-50 ish.

Yes. Your engine operates at a vacuum normally.

There is a piece inside the fuel pressure regulator that moves with changes in intake manifold pressure.

When you set it initially, it has to be a atmospheric pressure to give a good baseline for fuel pressure.

When idling (engine operating at vacuum), the regulator will send less fuel (pressure) to the engine since it does not need as much fuel to idle as compared to driving.

When you really get on it, that piece moves to allow less flow back (more resistance to flow), increasing fuel pressure proportional to intake manifold pressure, ensuring that the engine is getting the correct amount of fuel as pressure increases.

Sorry I missed this post. I am curious to know what happened as well, when you've had a little more sleep of course haha.

Without knowing the correlation between pressure and flow exactly, if they set your pressure to 50psi at idle, with the hoses connected, then they did raise your pressure. Roughly guessing, 50 at idle would correlate to near 60 at atmospheric. This would lead to a reduction in duty cycle, given the same injector size.

There is only one thing that can change your duty cycle for a set AFR and injector. Injectors are set because you install them. The AFR piece is for your tuner to play with and is arguably set at a certain value for safety, so I consider this arguably not a variable. This leaves the variable to be pressure. After that comes the issue of the pump being able to support the flow.

I have the CJM S1-SE fuel system with ID 1050x injectors from an Aeromotive 340lph pump with pressure set at 51psi at atmospheric pressure. Looking at my most recent logs, my injector duty is 51%, tuned on 93 octane, while around 11psi.

EDIT: I uploaded a picture of a log to show where my car is at right now for the respective parameters.

Those graphics though....:eek:

Hey Turtle, I see 50%. But that’s at only 6000 RPM. it will keep increasing with RPM. I do not know if they set pressure with line connected or not. I probably had set mine to 42, line connected, engine off, but pump on by using the app.

Cupcakez, let us know what yours pressures are. Curious.

Mine is 54 psi at idle on phunk's gauge. That's stock with the RRP kit.

FPR to be set wo vac line connected

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That is true. I'll see if I haven't solved the tube collapse to stay on it to redline after the rain passes down here.

You’ll probably be in the lows 60s at redline. 50% at 6000 and the increase should be linear.

Update:

Adel, My mechanic, went to route some lines and adjust the fuel pressure on my car yesterday and ended up fixing whatever the issue was. I still do not completely understand what the issue was exactly, but all I know is that:

(1) The rev limiter is now removed
(2) I do not need bigger injectors
(3) Eugene tested the car today doing a pull on a highway and made 14.5psi at 7500 RPM with the same setup as I previously posted with the dyno sheet post. (Air Filter still on there)
(4) The steering rack is being changed hopefully either tonight or tomorrow night and once that is done, I will go pick up my vehicle, get an alignment done at a nearby Firestone and drive back home with it!
(5) No dyno appointments available this week, so I'll try to get in sometime in February to dyno the upper RPM's with Eugene to get that dialed in and all worked out, also to see what numbers it makes for kicks. I'm guessing at this rate it would make (as Topgunz is guessing --> Around 550 RWHP and a little over 425 WTQ) which is perfect as I do not drive it crazy all the time so it will be fine.
(6) After all is said and done (minus the last dyno bit for the upper RPM's), I can finally enjoy and see my car for the first time in 2020!

So woot!

Huge thanks to Eugene my tuner, and Adel my mechanic for all of their hard work and time put into this vehicle, and a huge thanks to you guys (the Z community) for being so supportive of me thus far and for months to come :)

Congratulations Cupcakez! I just got my car back tonight. My local installer guy messed up the stage 3 clutch install so SOHO went and installed a stage 4 and fixed it. This, along with a belt tightening got rid of my slight boost drop I was seeing up top. So I’ve got my flex fuel tune done, and a fresh alignment that also got rid of a very twitchy car. Is Eugene going to add traction control to your tune? It would be nice to see what that ends up looking like. Also, remind us again what your filter, pulley, and impeller mods are. I’m not sure what exactly you ended up with.

He has the V3 Ti blower with the 9lb pulley, 3.00 sc pulley and the stock k&n filter.

Wow just saw this post and your Z is amazing. Way too many questions,but I'll just ask one lol. I saw you got your exhaust work done at mufflertech in Sac everyone keeps referring me there. There was another nizzy on bags that came into my shop and referred me to mufflertech. How do you like their work?

Do you have exhaust clips?

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They dont do things just for the money. I've been to MufflerTech multiple times and they charge very fairly. Also, they are very nice and try their best to adhere to customer requests, will also tell you that they cant do something if it's not what their shop offers!

I don't have any exhaust clips unfortunately. The work I had done at muffler tech was on my RED Z before I crashed it and totaled it, the exhaust on my car now is just a stillen full CBE which actually came with the car when I bought it off the lot used.

I'd go to Muffler tech for any exhaust needs. They also do all kinds of custom work too, so the imagination is your limit when going to get work done by them!!

That's awesome that you're familiar with them too you're like the 4th person to recommend them now I just need to go there when I get more money after I put new tires on tho...

So are you still in Sacramento?

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Been living in Elk Grove since 1998!!
You're more than welcome to check out my Z if you like!

That sounds great I'd love to come by and talk cars lol. I'm new to the area and I've been wanting to meet more people with import cars.it seems like everyone in this area needs a cammed v8 or you aren't doing something right lmao.

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Hey guys! Been a while since I've been on these forums and updated this thread.

Good news is that the car has been running fine, no known issues for at least 7 - 8 months now ever since it was fixed by my mechanic in February.

One thing I just wanted to touch upon and ask about is the following:

Okay. I just took the vehicle for a drive. Here's what I found:


(1) It only makes a rapid tapping noise when it's in the same gear and the revvs get higher (the tapping gets faster as the revvs get higher in the same gear)


(2) As soon as it changes gear (via automatically or manually), the tapping stops and kind of "resets" itself into the next gear. And in the next gear up, it will make the tapping noise again until it either switches to a higher gear or stays at an idle RPM.


(3) I tried manual mode, and stayed in gear 1 for a while and the tapping noise got faster and louder as the RPM's went up.


(4) After warming up the engine's oil to about 200 - 220 degrees from a lot of stop and go driving in the city, I parked the car and revved it in park mode and I could hear the rapid tapping noise again --> The higher RPM I went, the faster it got.


(5) I tried the same thing as (4) in Neutral mode, and got the exact same result.


(6) I tried to find out where the tapping noise was coming from exactly, but I can't really tell with just me in the car and without anyone else to help me listen to find the possible source(s) of it.


(7) The tapping noise does not occur in idle, park mode, neutral mode, or just rolling down the hill. ONLY when I am raising the RPM's while the vehicle is fully turned on.


NOTE: I've had this tapping noise for the longest time now, and I didn't think anything of it. It hasn't caused any known vital negative or positive issues, it's just a random noise that is just ... annoying because I don't know where it is coming from.


Any ideas on what this could be? Maybe just something neutral is hitting against something else which is why I haven't had any issues with the car since Feb? Or nah?

I have a short video clip of the noise example I'm talking about, but I don't know how to upload videos here, :(