but......she never won a nascar race :wtf2:

i mean she's still sexy just saying there's better examples of women racing drivers :yum:

Like Michelle Rodriguez? ;)

thought she was only into chicks?

i mean i'll happily just watch lol

Quick update on my boost issue:

(1) I was talking to a few respectable people in the Z community about my issue and what they thought of it after explaining my situation to them.

My Situation:
- I forgot to mention to you guys that my OEM idler pulley (the one between the Crank pulley and the A/C? pulley?) is missing. It actually popped out of the engine while I was attempting a pull one night and was forever lost.

Why? Because the person who worked on the engine last and put that pulley in there screwed it up and tried to retap the threads but failed at it, causing my pulley to pop out of it's slot when I was doing a pull that night.

Solution?
We decided to find a different serpentine belt to wrap around the entire remaining pulleys to "compensate" for the missing OEM idler pulley. (See attached image of the blue circled pulley that popped out).

The car ran fine, but the boost was extremely low for what my set up was. I was making an average of 6 - 7 PSI after this solution was complete. And we had no idea why.

At first we thought maybe its the area that the car was driving in at the time? Nope , not that. At my area the PSI was around the same lol.

Fast forward 9 months later (today) and I'm talking to a few respected people regarding this issu. 3 people say it was belt slip, everyone else (5++) say it was boost leak.

I'm like uhh, okay maybe it's boost leak then if majority says~~

Then I forgot to mention to some of those people that I was missing an OEM idler pulley and I told them the same story I told you guys just now.

(See attached images for what they thought and what they think, and also for an image of the missing pulley that popped out).

Unfortunately I don't have an image of the way the engine is routed at the moment, but it is definitely causing belt slip on the serpentine side.

One of the guys in one of the screenshots explains why!

What do you guys think?
Thoughts? Comments?

In lieu of all of this, in 2 weeks, I am going to gather up the following items:
(1)- Front timing cover
(2)- Missing OEM Idler Pulley (+) Hardware
(3)- Upper Timing Cover Gasket (Left and Right)
(4)- Front Main Seal
(5)- RTV
(6)- K071040 Belt
(7)- K080220RPM belt
(8)- Brand new K&N Air Filter (Current one I have is busted somehow, and looks almost like a cup, lol)

Going to replace the timing cover for 2 reasons:
(1) Threads where OEM idler pulley is screwed up, which is originally why we could not replace an idler pulley at the time we replaced the new belt on there.

(2) There is a tiny oil leak on the front passenger side of the timing cover that needs to be addressed. =)

You lost a pulley so you just left it off and routed the belt differently? Talk about MacGyvering it lol

This “build” just keeps getting better.

xD I lost it back in Feb and I forgot to mention it. I might have mentioned it earlier in this thread when it happened? Can't remember.

And yes, I didn't replace it because two people told me I didn't need to.
Two people I trust...turns out that not replacing it is highly likely why my boost is not making boost lol.

This time it isn't completely my fault even when I told them I wanted to replace it, they were like no need because /as long as the tension is there/ then it's okay.

9 months later, no. -_-

I took a very long time to read this entire thread...and I only have but a few words for you:

Please listen to others' advice, you seem to make the same mistakes over and over

It sounds like you are almost done fixing your car...? Assuming you did not leave any critical detail out in the thread as to what happened in the past to it, so I'd say best of luck to you and I hope one day you will learn your lessons ^^

I'd love to one day see you complete your build though, it would be really cool to see

Sounds about right :ugh2:

At least I discovered it late than never! :D

Yeah I'm starting to slowly listen to people now after 2 years of repeated mistakes and snowball effects because of that! It's proving to be ... oh wow! really helpful!

Update:

- Replaced Serpentine belt with K071040

- Replaced OEM missing idler pulley from 9 months ago (2:00 position from crank pulley)

- Replaced OEM grooved idler pulley on tensioner bracket (was a smooth idler pulley before)

- Replaced Engine oil with fresh 0w-40 Amsoil Signature series sold at a local shop 10 minutes away from me

- Replaced Engine coolant (because timing cover change required this also)


- Replaced supercharger belt with Gates K080220RPM (Car made 13.3 PSI with this belt), then the serpentine belt was shredded due to a slight misalignment of an aftermarket gates pulley that I first bought BEFORE putting in OEM ribbed idler pulley on the tensioner bracket, then replaced that aftermarket gates pulley with the OEM grooved idler pulley as stated above as well as replacing the supercharger belt with the previous non-RPM one, then made 12.2 PSI.

- Replaced Timing Cover because previous one had a couple minor oil leaks as well as bad threads for a few of the spots where pulleys go into (including the idler pulley spot that fell out in February of this year)

- In the process of the belts shredding, it apparently ate up and destroyed the wiring for one of my fans on the radiator, so only one of the fans work now, so I'm looking into having either that wiring replaced or the entire fan assembly replaced just so I can have a working correct wiring to have both fans working properly)

- Car is finally running how it should be (minus the radiator fan wiring that got destroyed). Finally, for the first time in 2 years, I have a working 370z that is making what it should be with the setup that it has currently (3.0" Direct SC pulley, 3.2" Jackshaft SC sided pulley, and 9 PSI (2.87" pulley) on the serpentine jackshaft side)
I couldn't believe it!

- I decided to finally take everyone's advice and stop bringing it to different random shops around my area, and am letting the person who has the only GTR Twin Turbo setup on his G37 work on my car (personal friend of mine in the bay area, CA) and it guess what? I'm finally seeing positive results after taking the advice people have been telling me for the last 2 years! lol.

I'm really happy with my car finally as it's running how it should be (minus the radiator fan issue but that is an easy fix).

Some good news for once on this thread from me!

There are many people I'd like to thank (too many to list) that have supported me throughout this entire time despite me being so stubborn and making dumb decisions left and right. A lot of people on this forums + facebook groups. Couldn't have made it this far without you all! So thank you!!

I hope to keep updating this thread with only positive, cool things. And not anymore negative, bad problems.

=)

Well it's about time. Happy to hear that. Only took you 2 years and a planet-full of money before you finally learned your lesson(s) about what you should and shouldn't be doing. Better late than never. Now be a responsible kid and pay off your debts (if any at all, which, I'm assuming you still have a lot to pay off at the moment) before doing any more /upgrades/ to the vehicle! Enjoy the vehicle, and I look forward to seeing you continue this build even further.

:iagree:

Update: (Last safety upgrade of 2019 - 2020, I swear!)

Now that my vehicle is running how it's supposed to be, I decided it's finally time to upgrade the fuel system and components.

Towards the end of December, I will be having installed on the vehicle the following:

(1) CJM S1-S Return Fuel System (No Rails, because I don't need them at the moment)

(2) Zeitronix ECA-2 Flex Fuel Kit & Gauge

(3) CJM Top Billet Hat to replace the plastic hat that we all know fails at some point

(4) 525lph Walbro Fuel Pump

(5) Hardwire (Relay Kit) for the 525lph Walbro Fuel Pump so that the stock wires do not melt due to this running much hotter!


Before, I had no need for a bigger fuel pump / upgrade in fuel system because my vehicle was only running 6.5 - 7.5 psi max. At the same time, I had the stock 255lph walbro fuel pump from the stock Stillen Kit and had only upgraded to 1050x IDs.

Now, I'd like to finally make the swap to E85 and will be doing so at the end of December when my friend is able to help with the install (The only one that's been fixing all the issues that other shops and people have caused on my car). And yes, he will be the only one touching my car from now on when it comes to installs and repairs.

To help myself from spending money in 2020, I asked him to refuse every request no matter what regarding upgrading my car, and since he is the only person that I'll allow work on my car...well I'm kind of stuck at that point! Which is a good thing for me xD

I also told him to please only work on my car if its any of the following:
(1) Safety hardware change on the car where, if I don't have it, it is unsafe to drive out of my garage / street.

(2) Maintenance (If anything breaks down that causes the car to not run properly anymore as it should)

Any other reason, I told him to refuse it! So I can help myself to pay things off in 2020 while enjoying the vehicle being run as it should without any risks. And no, I do not drive it hard every single time, once in a while I will. Just knowing that it is capable of going up to X WHP and Y WTQ and Z PSI assuming I wanted to push it, is good enough for me! Before, it was never running how it should be as you all know, but now it is and that's all I really wanted -- and that's what I finally got!

One of the main reasons why I'm doing the Fuel Upgrades is because now my car is making 12 - 13 PSI (almost double what I was maxing out in the last 9 months of driving it), so therefore I'm not trying to explode my block due to lack of fuel and incorrect AFR's so, to compensate it, I upgrade the fuel components for the rare time(s) I will push it to the max for fun once in a while!

I have already budgeted everything out in 2020 and how I will pay things off each throughout the entire 12 months. So I'm ready to go! This is assuming, of course, nothing unfortunate occurs and something goes right in my car-journey and physical-life for once!

================================================== ===============================================
================================================== ===============================================
================================================== ===============================================


For Timeline & Interest Purposes, this will be my current full build list from now until the end of 2020


|| ECUTEK; SPEED DENSITY || TopGunz Air-to-Air Supercharger Kit || IPP Built Motor Stage IV Spec || RJM Closed Deck Short Block || Quaife LSD || KW V3 Coilovers || Stillen-Exhaust || 11.0.1 CR || V3-Ti Centrifugal Supercharger || Concept Z Performance 34 Row Oil Cooler || AAM Oil Spacer || 1050x ID || Michelin PS4S, 305-30-19 Rear, 275-35-19 Front || Polyurethane Transmission Mount || CJM S1-S Return Fuel System (No Rails) || CJM Billet Fuel Top Hat || CJM Hardwire Relay || E85 (Flex Fuel) || Zeitronix ECA-2 Flex Fuel Sensor Kit + Gauge || 3.0" SC Direct Pulley - 3.2" Jackshaft SC Pulley - 2.87" Jackshaft Serpentine Pulley || 13.3 PSI || K080220RPM SC Belt || K071040 Serpentine Belt || 5.5" ATI Super Dampener Crank Pulley ||


-- PS: The only thing I may buy is Topgunz new development of the air filter, because I absolutely hate removing this current K&N air filter, but that's only if I need to! XD --

Cupz this is the best way to do it I have several moth this this package and the car is dream, but I am only in the 515 Whp due my Tranny is 7AT stock and all engine stock.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d122759c5b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...cccb132fc9.jpg

Enviado desde mi CLT-L29 mediante Tapatalk

Hmm? What's the best way to do what? :o

Did you mean to do the fuel upgrades is a best way to go about the car to run safely with higher power

Or...You mean to buy your car instead / buy a car that's already upgraded or were you meaning something else?
Haha, not sure what you meant honestly! My engine isn't stock but if it was stock I'd take off the air filter and put in a turbo guard like most people do to make more power. Just my block isn't worth risking to take off the air filter for a turbo guard or anything for more power / PSI. Also yeah, I'm also 7 AT, so I'm realistically probably never going to reach 700 RWHP on a dyno sheet or any logged numbers since, I never want to risk my block!
But, knowing that if I take off the air filter, it would reach nearly 700 rwhp would be good enough for me. Potential to drive it if I take something off versus not being able to reach that are two different things for me xD

But yeah, appreciate the post and input!!

Jejejje the fuel pump my friend, ethanol + 525lph

Enviado desde mi CLT-L29 mediante Tapatalk

Gotcha! Thanks for the clarification! Yeah. I had Charles help me pick out the correct fuel system components after telling him what my end goals were. He did mention the CJM S1-SE system but I figured I didn't actually really need the rails, ever, for my build as I believe (from research and talking to other Z owners who are massively upgraded) that rails are needed from 700 RWHP - 800 RWHP++.

I can always add the rails later on as well, so that's a good peace of mind to know.

So I decided to get the 525lph, CJM-S1-S, Hardwire Relay Kit so the OEM wires don't melt and the billet hat so that I don't have to worry about the plastic hat melting / breaking / failing on me later on.

Appreciate the feedback and support! :D

Seb told me hes at 900whp with stock rails lol i just bought all the fittings and hose to delete the metal hardpipe fuel rail inlet, its going to be sweet!

Update:

- Scheduled to have the E85 Flex Fuel Kit & CJM S1-E, as well as relay kit (so wires don't melt), 525lph fuel pump, and CJM Billet top hat installed this Friday.

- Scheduled to have it DYNO-TUNED for the first time ever with the e85 the next day (21st of December) by Eugene (ByThaBay forum user).

Going to have some serious power gains! Can't wait to see the numbers on a finally working vehicle after 2 years of disasters!

Stay tuned folks!!

Sad Update:

- Last night, the bottom end of the Stave IV rebuilt IPP engine started to give out for unknown reasons at the moment.

- Decided after much, that enough is enough with me and this engine's problems -- so I talked with Adel and gave him the option to take my engine in the current state in exchange for a stock engine (2014, 19k miles for $800 before taxes / shipping) swapped ALONG with all of the current add-ons I have on the IPP block into my car.

- He will be doing the labor to swap everything over to the stock engine and put that into my car, since he agreed to take this offer.

Since he is willing to deal with the engine and take care of it and fix it (whatever may be wrong with it), then he can reap the rewards of a potentially heavily built performance engine.

Let's be honest: I don't need a built engine. Never have. Reason why I bought this rebuilt engine was because Nissan had offered me a REMANUFACTURED stock engine installed into my 2015 Red Z back in 2018 February for $8000.

At first I was about to take that deal since I was in a bind and needed a car for work, but decided against it and cancelled the order (as I hadn't paid for it at the time). So I decided for that amount of money I might as well go for a rebuilt engine...I mean who wouldn't in that case?

I had no intention of getting a rebuilt engine until the very last thing of my build but I was forced to replace the engine somehow due to the stillen canned tune destroying my stock 2015 engine within 5 - 6 months of hard driving it. I also don't need a rebuilt performance engine for my end game power goals anyways) as you have all seen already; there are plenty stock blocks making 700rwhp+ safely. I'm also supercharged, so there's no reason to have a way overkill of a performance engine if I'm not ever going to use that potential to the fullest.

It's honestly better in someone like Adel's hands who has the knowledge, skills and perseverance to deal with any and all mechanical issues that come his way and who has a turbo car that can make use of a high performance engine such as this one -- where as I do not.

It's hard to pin point what the cause is, but we will drain the oil and look at the lower oil pan to see if we notice anything of significant information that can lead to what may have caused the issue of whatever is broken / breaking on the bottom end of the engine. There have been many hands on the engine in the past, but none that has opened up the bottom end of the engine or anything like that. I've kept up on the oil maintenance an average of 3k or less every change.

Looking back at the last 2 years, I've made a lot of mistakes via ignorance, lack of knowledge, etc. Through it all, I can say I'm pretty satisfied that I did go through everything that I went through so far -- met a beautiful Z community (you guys), met some really nice people IRL, got introduced to two people in real life who are almost always there for me when I need them despite my endless car issues, etc.

My tuner (ByThaBay) is amazing. He's always been there for me when he could -- going out of his way even just to help me out when he doesn't need to. He gives me knowledge of things I never knew, and teaches me how things work, answers questions about tuning, mechanic issues, etc.

Either way, my decision is final and the engine is now going to Adel to deal with in exchange for a stock 2014 engine being put into my car.
The big difference is only 1 person is touching the installs this time, not 50,000 people. And this 1 person is very trustworthy -- as I trust him with everything when dealing with my car.

Next update to come soon -- regarding the cause of the bottom end giving out.

cupcakez ~~ out.

You really dont have any luck with this do you. Sorry to hear.

Just make sure you now run a conservative tune and inform your tuner about the engine swap. I agree that he is a super helpful guy to deal with!

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

What do you think happened?

I wish I could tell you. I don't even know where to start to think what happened to it. Too many variations that I can't pick @_@ Too difficult to pin point where the cause is since so many things has happened to the vehicle in the last 2 years that ... well. I lost count lol

All I care about is a running engine (built or not, I don't give a damn) that runs as close as I can get to 700 RWHP WITH an air filter (current KN conical air filter or topgunz upgraded air filter, whatever one, doesn't matter to me).

All I ask for is one thing:
(1) Safely running engine that won't blow on me no matter how hard I push the thing with my current FI set up at 13 psi with e85 as as daily driver
(2) That the above /said/ engine will hold safely 600 - 700 RWHP as an end goal without breaking.

I will properly maintain the engine doing frequent oil changes, raise the damn car so I stop scraping and putting my bottom parts of the car in danger, and I will even keep the engine bay clean.

Money is not a factor for me as long as I know I can have a safe running fast car with the above specs (to me, it's fast). I will happily pay off my bills for an entire year or even 1.5 years if it takes that long if I am able to have the 2 things I ask for.

Our stock engine is sturdy. With 93-above octane, proper tuning, and regular maintenance, you should be safe for the boost your having.

I am really happy to hear that honestly. I mean I've seen plenty of stock engines hold up that are dailies that run 600 - 700 rwhp safely. And even driven hard more often than not too.

Especially that 831rwhp stock engine..lol. Gives me tons of hope.

I'll be using e85, having proper tuning, and I will definitely have oil changes every 3k miles or less for regular maintenance up keep. So it sounds like after the engines in by wed of next week (before new years is adels goal) I should be good to go lol.

Let's hope my luck doesnt get worse

Wow. You good sir are a glutton for punishment. Good luck with the next iteration.

If your going to dd your Z, I'd not suggest going overboard (pushing stock motor beyond 650whp) no matter what (for longevity sake). Just my two cents.

:rolleyes:

I hope you are still enjoying the adventure, at least...

.... "should" being the operative word :driving:

:D
And his reply just reminds me of he's running auto, so better safe than sorry. :driving:

If you are talking about Spooler. He just lifted a head yesterday at 17 lbs of boost. So now his engine will be coming back apart. That's on a built block. :shakes head:

"All i ask for is 700 rwhp on a stock block to be reliable and beaten on a daily basis"

Something doesnt add up here. Am I the only one seeing it? Or the only one not knowing about 700rwhp stock block cars driving reliable for say, 3 years?

You cant keep doing this to yourself. Especially not if you're doing it on borrowed money (just my personal opinion). Why dont you just settle for reliability and call it a day at a nice solid 550-600 hp?

^comes from a good heart - I just want you to enjoy the car and not worry all the time about stuff breaking and pouring more money into it





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:iagree: I don't know anybody that is doing 700whp on a stock block as a dd. Mine ran for five years between 500 and 600whp. I track it the last three years of its life. If you run at 700whp on a stock block you will keep on getting what you keep getting. :ugh2:

He's not going to get to 700whp. Probably mid 600's but the torque will be below 500ft.lbs and it's a sc'd set up so the power isn't going to hit hard like a turbo car so the motor should be fine. It's his auto trans that will probably cause him problems.

He could do like I did and install a wastegate and ebc. Then he can run it at low boost as a daily and only use high boost when the need arises.

Haha it's the journey that counts. I definitely am enjoying it. Way way way better than me sitting in my room playing games all day and never getting out of the house xD

I much prefer the adventure I've been going through!

Likely I wont ever be above 650rwhp. I am going to be running an air filter all the time rather than a turbo guard so my psi will be capped at 13.

Cheers :tiphat:

To me, it's odd how you dismiss some people's advice so quickly and seem to take other's as gospel. But to always be looking forward and positive about things is something you should be commended for. Especially at such a young age. GL to you and your Z :driving:

Your boost is going to be capped because you're running flex fuel and won't be able to add timing on 91 octane like if you were running e85 full time. Hence another good reason for the wastegate and ebc.