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Also the calculations your using are also an approximation. I am reading directly from the dyno graphs. I am also approximating as the image files are small. So instead of being all up in arms why don’t we choose to be civil. My post was in reference to the gtr plenum being only beneficial for aesthetics. This is not the case and when properly tuned people have often seen gains with it. No drop off in power like one shop claimed. I am just trying to be helpful and share information. Again I ask that you remove the incorrect information as the RJM customer sent me an improperly scaled graph and my comments were incorrect. I do not want people to be confused by that incorrect data. Hence why I removed my comments all together.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bullitt5897 (Post 3828752)

Also the calculations your using are also an approximation.

What do you mean by that? You mean because I’m using your approximated TQ numbers? That’s not my fault. My calculations are the same ones used by everyone, including the software used by a dyno.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Senna-F1 (Post 3828759)

What do you mean by that? You mean because I’m using your approximated TQ numbers? That’s not my fault. My calculations are the same ones used by everyone, including the software used by a dyno.

OK... You for some reason have an issue... Regardless of the calculator your using. I am pulling from two individual dyno sheets. I am making estimations based on graph dashes. I am giving comparable differences between two graphs. You are taking this information which I have stated is an approximation/estimation and using it as a stringent number. Again these are approximations of TQ and HP and the delta between them. two different cars with the exact same setup from fuel to a2a to supercharger, piping and routing. Same boost levels same dyno type and same fuel. There is a small advantage to the GTR conversion yet your all up in arms.

I have admitted where I was wrong. I didn't defend my wrong information in fact I removed it as to not confuse people and to not falsely prop up the gtr conversion.

With all that said. Topgunz my apologies for the thread derailment. I simply wanted to address the question on the gtr conversion and the statement that it is an aesthetics only mod. I have always stated that this product is something people should look for in higher boost applications. In lower boost applications as the example used here the gains will be minimal. In the higher boost applications the differential tends to grow.

Now back on topic. This is all I will speak on this subject. Again my apologies for the derailment.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bullitt5897 (Post 3828821)

It was a very simple and direct question to your statement that I *also* was approximating. And your answer was to tell me I *have an issue*, followed by everything else above, but no answer. I only have an issue with the truth and unsubstantiated accusations, as anyone should.

Moving on...

I am going to be installing this kit soon so I tried to mock everything up on the workbench. This brought up some questions. Looking over everything, I might also be missing some hoses and an idler. I am trying to bounce between the Stillen instructions and the Topgunz conversion instructions and I found that there are a couple holes in both.

1. I bought the SpecialtyZ 3bar MAP sensor which does not fit the OEM MAP sensor port on the Stillen manifold. I am guessing that I am simply going to bolt on the OEM MAP sensor to the manifold and not connect it. The 3bar sensor is going to be zip tied to something, the OEM MAP sensor electrical connector is going to be plugged into the 3bar sensor, and a new hole is going to be drilled and tapped for the the 3bar sense line. Is that correct?

2. In the Stillen instructions, the port on the manifold between the TB's is supposed to be connected to the purge valve. However, my manifold was delivered without the purge valve connection and the hole is simply plugged with a set screw. What am I supposed to do with the purge valve if the purge valve port is plugged?

3. My kit did not come with any hoses that are called out in the Stillen instructions. The only "hose" I received in my kit was 5' of tubing to connect to the bypass valve and also short stainless steel braided line that is plugged on one end. I have no idea where the braided line goes since I can't find it anywhere in the instructions. I also did not receive any of the 3/8's or 5/8's hoses or plastic tees that is called out in the Stillen instructions for the vacuum lines. I am not sure if this was an accidental omission from the kit or if they are not needed for the A2A conversion. I think they were accidentally left out since I seems like I still need to install the breather lines and add a breather filter onto the 5/8's tee. Is that correct? If so, does anyone know where I can find/buy the 5/8", 90deg hoses?

4. I marked up the vacuum diagram from the Stillen instructions. I just wanted to verify that my "corrections" are correct.

5. My blower bracket does not have a 7 rib idler that is shown in the Stillen instructions. My kit came with a small idler pulley but it does not fit in the bolt hole where the 7 rib idler is supposed to be. Is there supposed to be a 7 rib idler in the kit that was left out? And what I am supposed to do with the smaller pulley?

Quote:

Originally Posted by fork (Post 3832801)

I am going to be installing this kit soon so I tried to mock everything up on the workbench. This brought up some questions. Looking over everything, I might also be missing some hoses and an idler. I am trying to bounce between the Stillen instructions and the Topgunz conversion instructions and I found that there are a couple holes in both.

1. I bought the SpecialtyZ 3bar MAP sensor which does not fit the OEM MAP sensor port on the Stillen manifold. I am guessing that I am simply going to bolt on the OEM MAP sensor to the manifold and not connect it. The 3bar sensor is going to be zip tied to something, the OEM MAP sensor electrical connector is going to be plugged into the 3bar sensor, and a new hole is going to be drilled and tapped for the the 3bar sense line. Is that correct?

2. In the Stillen instructions, the port on the manifold between the TB's is supposed to be connected to the purge valve. However, my manifold was delivered without the purge valve connection and the hole is simply plugged with a set screw. What am I supposed to do with the purge valve if the purge valve port is plugged?
https://i.imgur.com/uMKLNXN.jpg

3. My kit did not come with any hoses that are called out in the Stillen instructions. The only "hose" I received in my kit was 5' of tubing to connect to the bypass valve and also short stainless steel braided line that is plugged on one end. I have no idea where the braided line goes since I can't find it anywhere in the instructions. I also did not receive any of the 3/8's or 5/8's hoses or plastic tees that is called out in the Stillen instructions for the vacuum lines. I am not sure if this was an accidental omission from the kit or if they are not needed for the A2A conversion. I think they were accidentally left out since I seems like I still need to install the breather lines and add a breather filter onto the 5/8's tee. Is that correct? If so, does anyone know where I can find/buy the 5/8", 90deg hoses?
https://i.imgur.com/Rhg41fZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/VtFXtaL.jpg

4. I marked up the vacuum diagram from the Stillen instructions. I just wanted to verify that my "corrections" are correct.
https://i.imgur.com/E1XTQrD.jpg

5. My blower bracket does not have a 7 rib idler that is shown in the Stillen instructions. My kit came with a small idler pulley but it does not fit in the bolt hole where the 7 rib idler is supposed to be. Is there supposed to be a 7 rib idler in the kit that was left out? And what I am supposed to do with the smaller pulley?
https://i.imgur.com/Jxteqe3.jpg

I can answer #5. Look at the 4th picture down on the first post of this thread, that will show you where the small idler (which is a tensioner) pulley goes. You are missing the 7 rib pulley.

Your steel braided line is for the supercharger drain, which you will place on the supercharger where the drain plug is currently at.

There is not a pulley missing as you re-use a pulley that you take off of the car when doing the install. This is called out in the instructions.

You do not need any other hoses as those are only for CARB and there is nowhere to route these. That is why there is 2 breather filters sent with the kit. One for each side of the valve covers.

The purge valve needs to go to the manifold. You can either T into one of the 2 on the back or get a barb like in the picture. Let me know if you want me to send you one if you need it.

Thanks for the replies. That cleared up alot.

One more question about valve cover connections: The breather filters go on both PCV valves. What do I do with the connections for the valve cover air inlets (the connections with the 5/8" vacuum hose shown on the Stillen vacuum diagram)?

I vented all 4 to atmosphere per Seb

Here's how mine was done. 5/8" hose from passenger side to tee on drivers side. 5/8" hose from drivers side to tee. Filter installed on tee (vented to atmosphere as above poster mentioned). Done by Seb.

For the 1050 injectors, I guess there is no easy way to pull the wires from the stock injector plugs so that I can just plug them into the Injector Dynamics clip. I have to use the splice kit?

Also should the metal spacer ring on the 1050 injectors be left on our taken off?

Quote:

Originally Posted by fork (Post 3836498)

Install them exactly as is, don’t remove anything. You’ll want to crimp the new terminals. There is a video on YouTube that shows you how, it’s very simple.

https://youtu.be/DETaedS7El0

Edit: Ended up cutting all of the rubber off of the front of the filter to get the bracket to fit flush. There was only about a 1/16 inch gap between the timing cover and the bracket bolt hole near the center of the car when we removed the rubber and dropped the SC assembly in for a test fit. The bracket pulled in against the timing cover when the bolts were tightened. Currently trying to get the Y-pipe to align with the throttle bodies which is also giving us fitment issues. Any tips on getting that aligned would also be helpful.

That is the first time I heard that someone couldnt get the bracket on. It is a tight fit but nobody has needed to cut away at anything. Can you PM me your name. I do not have you on my spreadsheet.

To get the Y pipe aligned, a good trick is to soak the pipes and couplers with windex. That way they spin easily and will slip into place when they need to. Dont worry about using a bunch as guys will inject that stuff directly into their engine if they run out of Meth/water.

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