I don't see the JWT flywheel option with the stage 3 SouthBend clutch. What is the weight? Sounds as if you endorse the quiet disk!

I just noticed another thing not mentioned for the fuel is upgraded wiring. There's a DIY for this, but might there be a member who's handy with a soldering iron (and knows the proper length to make the harness) who perhaps could do it?

It's a CJM option when ordering a pump. I included it when I priced mine out. Thanks for being picky about this stuff. That's what Im looking for.

DeatschWerks Wiring Kit:
15' 12-AWG Wires
Relay & Inline Fuse Included

And injectors need some pigtails or something? Plug and play adapters. Ill get a price on those too and add it.

Topz? :)

Yes. Loved the quiet disk. I bought the quiet disk stage 3 and the JWT 19 lb. flywheel separate of each other.

Yup, Plug and play adapters are $60 more. Well worth it if you ask me. One less thing to worry about effing up.

Hey Senna,

Will you be updating the table you put up on the OP? I'm watching this interest and it would be great (and helpful) to see an itemized/priced list of your final build.

Yes sir, when I update it, y'all can see those. I'm not doing every little thing though, like stuff I already have. But I basically have no power mods other than ECUTEK currently, so it'll be a pretty good list as far as engine/clutch/fuel type stuff.

Thanks for starting this thread -- lots of helpful info and good tips so far!

I don't think I ever had the cooler and spacer checked, at least I meant to just have 1 checked.

I assume my '14 Nismo has an OE cooler. The thought behind the spacer was this. This one increases capacity by 1 Liter. That's an increase of 20%. So, oil should be 20% cleaner between intervals. And with E85, injecting 25% - 33% more fuel, on top of the fact I'm boosting (ever more fuel), could cause some fuel contamination / "bore wash". It should also be 20% more resistant to increasing in temperature. It *may* not effect the ultimate temperature, but it should take longer to reach that point. For now Im thinking spacer, and see what happens. Im already planning to change oil every 3333 miles if I do this. Also, it's only $130 right now. Black Friday might change some of these prices. The down side is, if I end up with a cooler too, I just spent $130 I didn't need to because I agree I don't need both.

Logic seems sound to me. =) You should have the OEM cooler since you are '14.

Looks like you really should replace clutch master cylinder when replacing CSC. I deleted Specialty Z clutch from the list. Most expensive, didn't come with things the others did. I then added Clutch Master Cylinder option to the Stg 2 EZ Street. The Southbend Stg 3 includes it in the kit. Prices for these 2 are very close. Still wondering which one to get.

Stg 3 is 550 HP (Wheel?)
Stg 2 is 450 TQ (wheel?)

Got any links you want to share?

Oil cooler comment, I ran without one in a Texas summer (while GTM finished a few items on the original stage 1 SC) and only got into the 240 a few times. Now on that, you said you will be shifting at 4-4.5k you will still hit boost. With either SC kit on the market, boost starts around 3k, depending on how much you push the fun pedal. IF you truly baby it you can get up to just under 4k without really getting into boost but you get into 30% load or more you will see boost early on.

Also, from driving a nice hot summer without an oil cooler, driving does not cause problems it is stopping or traffic. If you plan to drive this in stop n go traffic for more than 20-30 minutes (is this your daily?), then invest in the oil cooler.

In another thread, this catch can was recommended: AdminTuning Coolant Overflow Oil Catch Can 370Z G37 VQ37VHR G35 350Z VQ35HR However, it is a single can for both lines, and pretty large and problematic for placement once the front of the engine compartment is packed with the s/c unit and belts and pulleys. I'm sure the guy who builds these could custom-fit it to be placed anywhere, but it's still a single can.

I think most folks go with two of these: https://www.z1motorsports.com/forced...n-p-11657.html You can fit them anywhere there's room.

Another brand I've heard thrown around on these forums is Saikou Michi. This is an interesting post by a member who built a catch can out of an aluminum water bottle: http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ml#post2488550

If you plan on tracking the car, it's important to note that the vented catch cans are not allowed on raceways because of the potential for oil to be thrown onto the pavement. Some catch cans have drain plugs in the bottom, but, IMO, it's just another possible source for leaks. Easy enough to unscrew the can and clean every once in a while.

Got some clarification on clutch options I had listed. I replaced ZSP Stg 2 EZ Street with ZSP Stage 3 Super Street. Only $10 more, and will hold 425 WTQ unlike the EZ Street.

Edit: only Southbend has quiet option which is $50

A couple comments regarding fuel system things:

S1.SE vs S1.E = There is no doubt the S1.E will be able to reach your goals. There are just 2 reasons to consider the S1.SE. Since it includes the billet rails, it eliminates the factory fuel rail delivery pipe at the front of the engine above the passenger valve cover. The fuel rail hoses come in and out at the rear of the engine, removing some visible clutter from the engine bay. In the case of the Stillen kit, customers have found this convenient since this part of the engine bay is already very cluttered with that kit.

The other purpose is that you'd already have the rails if you decided to upgrade the vehicle further in later phases. We have a new 370z twin pump that is PnP with the S1 kits (already installed and testing in a few cars), and there will be a S2 hose kit to follow this winter or spring. The S2 hose kit will require the rails.

My intention is not really to up-sale anyone, just to explain why someone might choose to when either option will meet their current needs.

A side note: Regarding the current S2.SE kit on our website, for anyone curious... its unofficially discontinued right now. When the S1.SE update came out last year, that S2.SE became mostly pointless, and the new S2 stuff coming is going to run over it.

CJM Billet Top Hat: Definitely worth getting if I may say so myself, with whatever fuel system you choose. Just for the sake of reliability if nothing else. One note.. if you order it at the same time as a S1.E or S1.SE fuel system, you can skip the $85 install kit. This is because we will automatically swap out the S1 kit's stock hat install kit for the billet hat install kit at the time of shipping.

Walbro 450 pump: Despite many retailers accidentally calling it a "485", its actually a 450. There are 2 versions of it... F90000267 and F90000274. The 267 was the first one to come to market. Then the 274 was later released with a higher pressure relief in it. It will flow more at higher pressures than the 267 due to this. Either one should meet your goals... just know that not all Walbro 450s are the same anymore.

Flex Fuel: While not indicated anywhere on our website, if you contact me via PM or email, we have a pretty inexpensive and convenient little fitting kit that makes splicing the flex sensor into your fuel lines very simple. This can save you some fiddling around during install.

Fuel Clips: They are now $15 each rather than $10. We just got a new batch of them back and they are beefed up a little more now and our cost went up a couple bucks.

Hmm thats all I can think of off the top of my head.