Mods needed to support 550 WHP Centrifugal SC kit
 

Trying to figure out what I will need for a 550+ WHP E85 SC kit?

Not sure about some of this. Should I get the 4 bar MAP sensor? What if the Gauge I have selected comes with a 3 bar MAP sensor? Do I need both? Gauge also comes with Ethanol sensor, which I assume can be used for ECUTEK as well?

Google Doc for Details

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

Looks pretty good! My first suggestion is to search around for secondhand parts. Things like oil coolers and such that have no moving parts don't lose a lot of functionality over time, so get'em cheap, flush'em and then put'em on!

I took a pass on the oil pan spacer. It's not gonna really serve any purpose, especially with that oil cooler. I have a 34-row on my car and oil temps stay sub-200 daily and barely break 200 track time, even in South Carolina summer. I got a used F.I. 34-row cooler for $500 shipped.

I went S1-SE for my fuel return system and I would recommend it. I think the S2-SE (linked and priced for on your list) only adds a larger fuel return line. I have a buddy (Woo here on the forum) running the same setup as you are building for, except with the addition of the 9lb pulley, with no fuel upgrades (aside from injectors) just fine. The billet tophat is also a great choice!

For the fuel pump, I went with the Aeromotive stealth 340. 455 might be way more than you need but if you get a deal or something, no reason to pass it up.

I also chose the ID 1050x injectors. When I did my data runs on my second tune revision, I believe they were at ~50% duty cycle at my peak power production (I've put down 410/310 so far, wrong tune rev....).

I have an auto tranny, so I'll let the manual guys pipe in about the clutch.

As for exhaust, it's whatever sounds good to you, in my opinion. I went with a Borla catback and Z1 test pipes because I think it sounds great! But to each their own.

For your tune, talk to your tuner about the sensors for it. I went through SpecialtyZ and they supplied the pressure sensor. They are Ecutek and will give you tune support for a year. Also, Sebastian is pretty great as well as experienced with our setups (SC A2A).

The attached picture is a little disorganized spreadsheet of my build stuff. Everything in bold is on my car with the exception of the Z1 intake manifold.

I did my install in my garage over the course of a few days, if you have any questions, I'll be more than happy to do my best to answer them! Here's the link to my build thread: http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ld-thread.html.

Turtle64B did a good job stating some of the non-necessary parts and pointing to the right direction.

The only thing I would suggest is you do indeed want that 480 walbro if your going E85. I ran the 340 and it couldnt keep up and became my limiting factor. They are basically the same price and you dont want a few dollar difference in pump wasting your $1500 fuel system. The only drawback is they heat the fuel up more but E85 runs super cold so it helps even things out.

I would say if your hitting 550whp you will be well over the 375tq mark. More like 425.
I was at 525/414.

PS. I dont see tires on the list. Your going to be in neutral if on stockers..lol.

I would post my videos of my trip to the drag strip Saturday if it was anything more than tires squealing and BOV air haha. But really. Bigger. Better. Tires. Suspension mods help too haha

I'm putting together the same list as you, so I can gauge whether or not this upgrade is within my budget. I noticed a couple of things from your list.

1) It looks like you haven't checked the box for the 34-row cooler. I don't think you'd want to drive very far at this level of power without the cooler. (I see the price to the right on your list, so maybe you just missed the checkmark.)

2) You'll either need a welding shop to modify your crash bar, or purchase Fast Intentions crash bar.

Also, I don't see the Ecutek hardware on your list. Do you already have it installed? You may want to add the RJM pedal, too, and a catch can.

I'm eager to see what Topz will be putting together.

I ran without an oil cooler the whole time I was supercharged and never seen more than 240*. This was a street queen car so it never seen track days. I think a lot of the "must have an oil cooler" info comes from the turbo world since they use oil to cool the turbo so it heats it up even more. I could be way off and am in no way saying not to get one, but just saying I ran without one and it wasn't a problem. I will add up north though so southern heat is different.

I'm not sure which years/models came with the OEM cooler -- did yours at least have the OEM one?

2009 and it didn't have the factory. I did forget to mention that I had an oil pan spacer though since I couldn't get it back off and bought a new one to sell with the turbo kit that I had put it on for. So maybe that helped more than I thought.

I am TT and run without an external oil cooler, though I have the OEM cooler and the GTM oil pan which acts as a gigantic heat sink and provides additional capacity.

Based on claims in this community that the OEM cooler was ineffective, I did try deleting it for a while and what I found was that this claim is completely inaccurate - the OEM cooler does quite a bit! Without the cooler, cruising at ~95mph, 87 degrees high humidity, my oil temps reached steady state at ~260F.

After reinstalling the OEM cooler, cruising at ~95mph, 83 degrees high humidity, my oil temps reached stead state at ~227F.

The OEM oil cooler definitely does make a difference, and in my case (in conjunction with my GTM pan) is enough for street driving. I can not comment on the performance in a track scenario, but I would assume it would not be sufficient.

One thing to note: In cooler weather, my oil temps were fine without the OEM cooler... I'd hypothesize that my GTM pan was cooling pretty efficiently with the cold air flow.

'12+ have the OEM cooler.

Thanks so much guys! Appreciate the feedback. Let me address some of the comments.

The check boxes are options I can turn on and off, that will affect the price. Lets me play around.

Oil cooler or not: I was kinda hoping that because I normally shift around 4/4.5K, that these kits are not producing power at those revs the way a turbo would be. a BP kit would be at full boost basically, and a centrifugal is just starting to wake up. 2nd, with E85, it would be even less of an issue. New coolers are $$$, and sometimes they leak, so was hoping I could get one later if needed. My real concerns with NOT having one is making it through the tuning/dyno sessions. Can you rent one? :) :)

Fuel pump: I had read about Topz having issues with the 340, and that's why I went 485.

Exhaust: I currently just have the Nismo exhaust (Mine is a 2014 Nismo) and Beluga short tails. I don't think adding test pipes to those is a good idea. Id at least need ART pipes, but full Motordyne would be nice, Just so much $$$

Other things mentioned. Im on ECUTEK now, have the RJM pedal, 305 RE-11's, BC Coils with SPL front ARMs and SPC in the rear. Ive got Diff bushings, subframe collars, transmission mount, Yamaha axle nuts (for the clicking issue).

Im seriously thinking of putting a lift in my garage.

For you guys with AFR and Ethanol gauges, are you sharing sensors with the ECU?

Thanks for all the info and offer Turtle! Wish you were a little bit closer :) I don't have any friends. :rolleyes:

Got all those already. and yes, very eager to see what's coming. Well, I have a good idea, just eager to see if actually happen. Topgunz is a very helpful and active member. That makes a difference to me when it comes to buying kits from people.

Yes E85 helps the cooling aspect. And I would say you will be ok on the dyno..... Oh the kit, it's happening.

got a couple of notes from your list (all of it IMO) -

Return fuel system: You may as well just remove the AAM RFS from your list completely as it does not include an external filter, which you will want for E85 and Walbro 485.

The S1.SE is also overkill for the power you are looking for. The S1.E and FAST-500E are the appropriate choices.

Clutch: You can save a chunk by going with the Z1 clutch. I have it and it works great. You may also consider sticking with the OEM flywheel... I kind of wish I had (I got talked into the light weight flywheel by members here). I don't see much benefit, but I do hear a lot more drivetrain chatter.

Exhaust: LTH is an expensive addition that is probably not going to buy you much more performance - not to mention it is laborious to install. It is currently occupying 11% of the total cost in the way you have it configured.

Tune: You will need the 4 bar sensor in addition to the one for your gauge (which will be just for your gauge).

Oil cooling: If your car is not equipped with the OEM cooler, you will need to add one. Even stock cars without the OEM cooler probably need to add on. If you have the OEM cooler, I would take a wait-and-see approach and add it if necessary.
The oil pan spacer is only going to give you additional capacity. Air external oil cooler will also do this... I would skip the spacer.

I agree on the LTH. The stock headers flow excellent and shouldnt be looked at till 600whp. Get Motordyne ART pipes instead and save $1000 in parts and $$$ in labor...or headaches. I think it will sound better too.

My SouthBend stage 3 QUIET DISK was amazing and I didnt have any chatter combined with the JWT flywheel.

I don't see the JWT flywheel option with the stage 3 SouthBend clutch. What is the weight? Sounds as if you endorse the quiet disk!

I just noticed another thing not mentioned for the fuel is upgraded wiring. There's a DIY for this, but might there be a member who's handy with a soldering iron (and knows the proper length to make the harness) who perhaps could do it?

It's a CJM option when ordering a pump. I included it when I priced mine out. Thanks for being picky about this stuff. That's what Im looking for.

DeatschWerks Wiring Kit:
15' 12-AWG Wires
Relay & Inline Fuse Included

And injectors need some pigtails or something? Plug and play adapters. Ill get a price on those too and add it.

Topz? :)

Yes. Loved the quiet disk. I bought the quiet disk stage 3 and the JWT 19 lb. flywheel separate of each other.

Yup, Plug and play adapters are $60 more. Well worth it if you ask me. One less thing to worry about effing up.

Hey Senna,

Will you be updating the table you put up on the OP? I'm watching this interest and it would be great (and helpful) to see an itemized/priced list of your final build.

Yes sir, when I update it, y'all can see those. I'm not doing every little thing though, like stuff I already have. But I basically have no power mods other than ECUTEK currently, so it'll be a pretty good list as far as engine/clutch/fuel type stuff.

Thanks for starting this thread -- lots of helpful info and good tips so far!

I don't think I ever had the cooler and spacer checked, at least I meant to just have 1 checked.

I assume my '14 Nismo has an OE cooler. The thought behind the spacer was this. This one increases capacity by 1 Liter. That's an increase of 20%. So, oil should be 20% cleaner between intervals. And with E85, injecting 25% - 33% more fuel, on top of the fact I'm boosting (ever more fuel), could cause some fuel contamination / "bore wash". It should also be 20% more resistant to increasing in temperature. It *may* not effect the ultimate temperature, but it should take longer to reach that point. For now Im thinking spacer, and see what happens. Im already planning to change oil every 3333 miles if I do this. Also, it's only $130 right now. Black Friday might change some of these prices. The down side is, if I end up with a cooler too, I just spent $130 I didn't need to because I agree I don't need both.

Logic seems sound to me. =) You should have the OEM cooler since you are '14.

Looks like you really should replace clutch master cylinder when replacing CSC. I deleted Specialty Z clutch from the list. Most expensive, didn't come with things the others did. I then added Clutch Master Cylinder option to the Stg 2 EZ Street. The Southbend Stg 3 includes it in the kit. Prices for these 2 are very close. Still wondering which one to get.

Stg 3 is 550 HP (Wheel?)
Stg 2 is 450 TQ (wheel?)

Got any links you want to share?

Oil cooler comment, I ran without one in a Texas summer (while GTM finished a few items on the original stage 1 SC) and only got into the 240 a few times. Now on that, you said you will be shifting at 4-4.5k you will still hit boost. With either SC kit on the market, boost starts around 3k, depending on how much you push the fun pedal. IF you truly baby it you can get up to just under 4k without really getting into boost but you get into 30% load or more you will see boost early on.

Also, from driving a nice hot summer without an oil cooler, driving does not cause problems it is stopping or traffic. If you plan to drive this in stop n go traffic for more than 20-30 minutes (is this your daily?), then invest in the oil cooler.

In another thread, this catch can was recommended: AdminTuning Coolant Overflow Oil Catch Can 370Z G37 VQ37VHR G35 350Z VQ35HR However, it is a single can for both lines, and pretty large and problematic for placement once the front of the engine compartment is packed with the s/c unit and belts and pulleys. I'm sure the guy who builds these could custom-fit it to be placed anywhere, but it's still a single can.

I think most folks go with two of these: https://www.z1motorsports.com/forced...n-p-11657.html You can fit them anywhere there's room.

Another brand I've heard thrown around on these forums is Saikou Michi. This is an interesting post by a member who built a catch can out of an aluminum water bottle: http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ml#post2488550

If you plan on tracking the car, it's important to note that the vented catch cans are not allowed on raceways because of the potential for oil to be thrown onto the pavement. Some catch cans have drain plugs in the bottom, but, IMO, it's just another possible source for leaks. Easy enough to unscrew the can and clean every once in a while.

Got some clarification on clutch options I had listed. I replaced ZSP Stg 2 EZ Street with ZSP Stage 3 Super Street. Only $10 more, and will hold 425 WTQ unlike the EZ Street.

Edit: only Southbend has quiet option which is $50

A couple comments regarding fuel system things:

S1.SE vs S1.E = There is no doubt the S1.E will be able to reach your goals. There are just 2 reasons to consider the S1.SE. Since it includes the billet rails, it eliminates the factory fuel rail delivery pipe at the front of the engine above the passenger valve cover. The fuel rail hoses come in and out at the rear of the engine, removing some visible clutter from the engine bay. In the case of the Stillen kit, customers have found this convenient since this part of the engine bay is already very cluttered with that kit.

The other purpose is that you'd already have the rails if you decided to upgrade the vehicle further in later phases. We have a new 370z twin pump that is PnP with the S1 kits (already installed and testing in a few cars), and there will be a S2 hose kit to follow this winter or spring. The S2 hose kit will require the rails.

My intention is not really to up-sale anyone, just to explain why someone might choose to when either option will meet their current needs.

A side note: Regarding the current S2.SE kit on our website, for anyone curious... its unofficially discontinued right now. When the S1.SE update came out last year, that S2.SE became mostly pointless, and the new S2 stuff coming is going to run over it.

CJM Billet Top Hat: Definitely worth getting if I may say so myself, with whatever fuel system you choose. Just for the sake of reliability if nothing else. One note.. if you order it at the same time as a S1.E or S1.SE fuel system, you can skip the $85 install kit. This is because we will automatically swap out the S1 kit's stock hat install kit for the billet hat install kit at the time of shipping.

Walbro 450 pump: Despite many retailers accidentally calling it a "485", its actually a 450. There are 2 versions of it... F90000267 and F90000274. The 267 was the first one to come to market. Then the 274 was later released with a higher pressure relief in it. It will flow more at higher pressures than the 267 due to this. Either one should meet your goals... just know that not all Walbro 450s are the same anymore.

Flex Fuel: While not indicated anywhere on our website, if you contact me via PM or email, we have a pretty inexpensive and convenient little fitting kit that makes splicing the flex sensor into your fuel lines very simple. This can save you some fiddling around during install.

Fuel Clips: They are now $15 each rather than $10. We just got a new batch of them back and they are beefed up a little more now and our cost went up a couple bucks.

Hmm thats all I can think of off the top of my head.

Anyone know how big an issue this is when using the A2A kit, since the charge pipe no longer runs across the front of the engine bay.

Twin pump gets rid of all the hacking and soldering? How about a single that's plug-n-play? Either way, how much?

I think E85 will eat those stock plastic hats. No?

Price in sheet adjusted

Is this new, because I emailed on Nov 9 and said:

-Flex Fuel (sensor, wiring, anything you can provide will help)
-Anything else that will make the install easier, more reliable I would consider as well.

Glad to see you doing something in this area! Have details and price, so I can add it to my sheet?

Adjusted Fuel Clip support and removed F.I. fuel return kit as an option. ;)

Thank you for chiming in Charles!

Mark

Its the same with the A-A since the fuel inlet tube is right near the throttles. Customers have installed the S1.E with these Stillen kits but they have to bend the fuel inlet tube a little to make space.

Twin pump doesn't eliminate the requirement for wiring. It actually adds more wiring since there is a second pump. But it will eliminate the need to make any modifications to the stock fuel pump housing. They will be around $550 + pumps + installation accessory options + optional surge protection baffle kit. You could run it as a single pump if you wished, although its probably not worth it unless you figure it is inevitable that you will one day want to run it as a twin.

No E85 will not harm the stock plastic hat, nor the filter housing and canister which are made from the same material. No concerns there! There are countless 370z owners running E85 with modified stock fuel pump housings and return kits.

The fittings we have for adding the flex sensor we have had for several months. But we do not sell the sensors or have anything for wiring it to the ECU. We recommend working entirely with your tuner on sourcing your flex sensor and having them provide your specific wiring instructions to connect the sensor to your ECU where they will coordinate with your software settings.

We haven't set a price on the fittings since we haven't added them to the website yet. It will probably be $45 for the fittings to put it on the return line, or $70 for the fittings to put it on the feed line. If someone asked me for some right now that is what I would charge in the meantime until we get them priced and configured on the site.

Attached a photo of flex sensor installed to return side using mentioned fittings (its just a 180 U-Bend and a QD adapter to splice it in, to put it on the feed side would need a second QD adapter).

Also attached a pic of one of the first twin pumps that was shipped out to a popular vendor/tuner for testing a couple weeks ago.

I ordered MD ART pipes. Should I get the Innovate gauge (Ethanol, boost, afr)? If so, will I need to install a bung on one of the art pipes, or can MD do that for me? Do folks usually just monitor 1 bank for AFR? Time is running out on these deals.

Innovate..yes
Single bung in art..yes
Where to mount it...hold it up there and Mark a spot with a sharpi. That's what I did and it worked out problem free

Check the spreadsheet for some deals. Innovate 25% off today!

Seb says I still need the ECA-2 (black box). Asked what it did that this gauge doesn't, but didn't get a response to that part.