Billet Engine Block
 

I am seeking a few guys interested in a billet aluminum VQ35HR/VQ37VHR engine block. Water cooled with iron wet sleeves, enlarged head stud threads, and a couple other interesting design features that we would dial-in if we get that far. *Not* as an in-house / CJM product, I am merely making the push for it. I have 2 options for interested manufacturers of billet blocks, both with lots of experience and reputation.

We need 5+ guys on an initial order to get anywhere with it.

Cost: Brace for impact to the scale of $10,000 - $14,000 (pending some design features) for a *BARE BLOCK*. I will push for sub 10k, but we cannot have anyone who is holding their breath for that, its unlikely we will achieve that goal.

This is, of course, intended for top level drag racing, roll racing, and dyno queen projects. If this is something that excites you enough to empty your children's college fund, please shoot me a PM or email so I can get you on the list and see if we can make it happen.

Thanks

Does anyone know if selling kidneys for 30 grand is still a thing!?:roflpuke2:

:rofl2:

Its not all that expensive if you think about it! Not in the grand scheme of building a 1000+ HP engine... the extra 10g to bump the build into the highest tier of RWD street car powerhouses, is well worth it.

The only other option, is to use a modified stock block, and rebuild your engine 2-4 times as often! I think that a lot of people who question the expense of a block like this, are unaware of how many engines the top tier cars go through to get their results. Its rarely disclosed to the public.

If someone plans to use a 1000+ HP VQ on a regular basis, and run it for all its got, its an easy decision. Ive got several guys discussing it with me, but only 3 all-in at this point. I will expect it to take some time to line up the buyers since its a sudden and drastic proposal. And really, its like a change of lifestyle for many, since building to this level would appropriate the time and dedication to campaigning such a car at national level events.

this exactly Charles. This is usually the realm people with very deep pockets and/or some way of writing the work off delve into. Will you find 5 people? certainly. But I find it awfully hard to justify an EASILY $15-20,000 decked out short block(IE stroker billet oil pump dry sump)+Heads(port/polished +1mm Ti valves springs retainers etc, exhaust cams) then to throw upwards of 6 grand on an boost logic GTR intake setup/lower conversion with larger TBs. You realize why I asked about the whole $30,000 dollar exchange for a kidney now right?

I'm by no means at all knocking what you're trying to make happen here. by all means bring it to the market. If I never decide to sell this car for a Gallardo ill buy one when the time comes; But hell, weve yet to see someone take the suspension in one of these cars into the 9s let alone to start talking about motors capable of 7s.

Baller.... Wish I could justify it. Subd for updates

Well yes of course there are countless other factors to such a build. However, there are already many people purchasing billet cranks, dry sumps, and the rest. So you really can just consider the cost of the block itself as a separate expense, rather than having to include the inevitable extras that any high power builds would already include!

As for the suspension and single digits... that is because all the Z builds are full street builds. Run a 28 on a 15" and 18psi, stock ride height and softer suspension, and suddenly that IRS isnt going to be such an issue getting into the 9s.

The only reason you havent seen anyone run a 9, is because nobody has tried to run a 9. All that we have had, are guys taking their typical full street car builds to the track with some semi-sticky tires just to see what happens.

I know that on this forum in particular, it is unlikely I will find potential buyers for the block. Its just that I might as well post it here just in case someone finds it on a random glance.

People who build such race cars are not used to thinking of the 370z as a realistically rewarding platform because there has been a few critical missing links. Anyone remaining in this community is here because those limitations are of no concern for their personal use and goals of the car.

I personally believe that the market for a billet 370z block is entirely outside of the 370z community! It would be a person who is interested in building something that isnt just another Vette, Viper, Supra, for the RWD classes.

So I was actually expecting a ton more criticism with my post here.

Definitely no criticism needed here. I hope someone does it as I would love to follow the build and see the results.

I'm totally with you buddy. DARE TO BE DIFFERENT! If I wanted proven results I would be wheeling one of the platforms above! no hate what so ever. more less just picking your brain to find what your plans are with such a project that is merely all! FYI I have some pretty game breaking news I NEED to share with you about what we spoke on a couple months ago. ill message you as soon as I'm done commuting to Toledo my dude! :) :stirthepot:

I agree with this. Anyone can swap in a built 2J and call it a day at 1000hp but that's old news. This is just a really rad way of being different. I'd love to see this happen but I couldn't justify something like that, hell, my cars not even paid off yet lol. :icon14:

:tup: I need to hit the lottery.

I'd be fully on board Charles....

next year :(

We were planning on doing this later this year after the supercharger kit. Charles if you would like to team up on this we can bring it into reality. Also with the new HAAS machine we picked up we should be able to get this done pretty cost effectively.

Give us a shout.

Can't wait to see this come to life. I also need to hit the lotto

Mmmmm

I think you can still give up a nut......

It’s letting students cut your big toe off and re-attaching it. Well two people are going to test how strong the VHR blocks are. One is soho using aluminum rod set and the other is in my opinion a proper drag set using steel rods both aiming fro around 14-1700 whp.

Steel rods over 1200whp are a recipe for a broken crank if the dang headgaskets will hold.

He will have a way better engine management program the. 99% of any VHR owners. He has been through the entire motor, his heads will hold. It’s a similar process of how soho did the heads.

That doesn't matter. GTR's go billet aluminum rods above 1200-1300whp.

He better have deep pockets. He is going to break a ton of parts.

What we spent on our entire build, he has that in the motor lol.

We going to find out. I said the same thing. Why not just go billet crank and aluminum rods at that point. Who knows it may last for a couple runs. My buddy ran 1700whp and didn’t use aluminum rods in his GTR. Never blew a motor.

Ah, not mine. He is going to need a couple of them. He just doesn't know it yet.

Trust me.

I wouldn't use aluminum rods in a street motor. Only in a drag motor. They have a limited service life because of definite metal fatigue life. In a drag motor. You normal tear it down at least once during the season to inspect everything inside. That includes measuring rod stretch. With using aluminum rods. You have to watch your deck height. Normally you set your piston below the deck because of stretch. For the street. I would be using Carrillo rods. Have used them before in my 572ci big block Mopar.

That's why nobody uses aluminum rods on the street. They have a limited life and require maintenance and replacement. Why do folks over 1200-1300whp use them on a GTR? To prolong the life of the crank and rod bearings. The V6 design is hard on cranks. Why the guy above didn't get a Bryant crank is beyond me. They will break above 1200whp. When you get above 200hp per cylinder is the problem area. RealStreet did a video on it.

There are plenty of GTR's making over 1300whp with steal Rods. Manley makes a Tri beam 300m Rods that are used In GTR'S well above that.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

I am sure some folks do just like anything else. There was a video posted in my thread from one of the guys at T1. For a reliable build, one that the motor doesn't need to come out but every 2-3 years to be refreshed, they use steal rods. Anything above that and they recommend aluminum rods. Those have a limited life span and require much more service to be done on the engine regularly.

Unfortunately, we don't have the development money being spent on our platform like the GTR guys have. We only have SOHO and a couple of people pushing the platform along as best as we can.

It is cheaper to have 5 billet blocks made than to switch over to a VR38 built engine. Those suckers are not cheap and then you have to go standalone.

You ain’t lying. 60k is it more to do a vr38 swap for 1200whp.

DAMN GTR tax.... They can keep it.

Think it would be cheaper to do a 6 rotor rotary.

A VR38 built from scratch using new dealer parts use to not be too crazy compared to a VQ. But some of the parts recently skyrocket in price.. such as the blocks doubling in price overnight from $2800 to around $5500. Then the magnesium upper pan for a VR isnt cheap. You will definitely take a big hit buying all that little crap you dont have to buy when your car came with the engine, like timing covers and basic accessories. Buying a VR38 take-out core to get all the stuff isnt a good option because they are in demand so very expensive and because the block shouldn't be bored at all so you really want to replace it anyway; so youre still going to drop another 6K on top of the core for a fresh block before you even start collecting aftermarket parts. A VR38 swap is more of a useful option for someone coming from a pretty much stock car. But someone who already invested in twin turbos and built VQ parts etc, switching to a new engine that is way more expensive is tough to chew.

Junkyard VR38 GTR engines are freaking 15k. Ouch!!!! RB26 GTR engines are 15k.

You can buy a t1 basic long block for 13k

That is with a good working core. So add that to 15k.

Note on the page.

*A good working core is required. We do have options if you are not able to supply one. Please contact our sales staff for details.



https://www.t1racedevelopment.com/pr...8l-long-block/