We need a train derailing emoji.

No kits come with all the upgrades you need. That's well known. That doesn't mean that you don't need them, or that you don't figure in the cost of them when planning your project. You're right, supporting mods are not necessarily mandatory. But, a lot of them are a damn good idea when you're adding forced induction to a car that came from the factory NA.

Remember when I said
? I mean, your first post as a member of this forum was refuting it (even though you spent much closer to that 10k mark than originally stated once you added in the other parts you had already installed).

Where in there did I specify that those numbers were only the cost of the kit? In fact, the phrase "out the door" traditionally means your total all-in cost.

Keep it civil guys!

The recent development meeting went really well! It looks like RJM is going to be making its pulleys in house! They have already set their eyes on a self aligning cog belt and a first round on the pulley setup. Their new CNC machine for this project should be at their new location by the end of the week or the beginning of next week. Once it's in place, been leveled and all their programs loaded they are going to cut the first few units to test fit the final product. It's getting close guys and as soon as everything is up and running they are already looking at releasing product images and pricing!

Also for those arguing under $10k builds how many of you factored in fuel components and billet AN fittings or quality hoses or even billet water pumps? The reason I ask is because the RJM kit is going to be a really high end kit on the quality scale for the price! When you guys see the parts list your going to go wow! How did they do that for so cheap!!!

The retail on their AN fittings alone are $$$... they are using nice nylon braided hoses stainless steel hardware... everything they can make out of billet they are... yeah you can hack a stillen kit and be about the same price but I would put my money on the RJM kit kicking that stillen kits butt down the track every time!

Yes you can half *** a build under $10k but it won't be a build that easily scales to 1000hp... the RJM kit does and will. Just stay patient they are working everyday on the kit.

Don't matter to me if I spend a month of Sunday's installing a boosted kit.
I know what happens when people rush work & at my age...Quality over quantity anytime!

Why are they making their own pulleys, because when I read about cog and whipple it's usually someone looking for anyone who has done it, followed by replies about it being a bad idea for a street car. And talk about noise! A cogged whipple is anything BUT quiet.

There are several reasons why they are going cog:

1. Simpler pulley setup
2. If you break a supercharger belt you only break the supercharger belt not the serpentine belt. Meaning you can limp the car to get a new belt or off the road.
3. Better grip than a 6 rib
4. Scalability!
5. Cost savings

Why are they making their own pulleys?

Well they are making them for this specific application. Why is it an issue? It's not that loud and it's perfectly fine for street driving.

Also it is extremely common to go cog drive on the whipple...

Pretty sure he meant "why not go with a ribbed belt?" every reason you gave can be done with a ribbed belt also, which are less noisy.

Really? Hmmm. I've yet to see anything positive about running cog on a daily driver.

http://www.lightningrodder.com/forum...cs/1424?page=1

https://www.svtperformance.com/forum...ystem.1076812/





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I read both those threads front to back. And besides 1 guy saying it's bad for that application with out proper bracing and it was also dependent on how hard the charger was driven and the pulley ratios and tensioner setups... there was no concrete evidence one way or the other. But several guys came in at the end and revived the threads saying they put over 50k mikes of hard abuse on their cog setups and no issues...

So I am going to stand on the side that it's going to be fine. Given my experiences so far I haven't seen any issues.

The whole point of a cog setup is to reduce the amount of tension needed and thus not put as much stress on the bearings in the snout and on the crank pulley.

And reduce/eliminate belt slippage,as I've seen where slippage can accelerate the wear on the main bearings.

Interesting. If you talk to vortech, they tell you that a certain amount of slip is required for longevity of the supercharger. They in fact encourage a certain amount of slip and told me if you completely eliminate it, it is tough on the bearings.

Which makes sense, just like if your tires let go on the street. If they would never slip, we would see a lot more snapped axles and driveshafts.

I do know COG will make a whinning noise compared to ribbed. It is caused from the when the belt meets the cog, it squeezes air out so quickly and repeatedly that a whinning noise is made. In fact, on some setups this is what you hear over the supercharger. It is not going to sound like a firetruck by any means but it will be audible. However, to the point of good taste. I love it. :driving:

So an update on the hood. After waiting nearly two months fly1 was unable to send me an FRP hood. So at this point I got a refund and they were good on that. So now I am looking for another donor hood.

Only issue I have with them making an in house cog pulley is that if anything with the company goes south and you need replacement parts, you could very well be SOL. Very much similar to the GTM supercharger kit. They use a proprietary belt for their kit. Of course you could have one made, but it would be a pain in the @$$.

Like I said, I'm excited for them to come out with something new, these cars lack torque in the lower end. I'm just curious how far it's needed to go in order to get that whipple to fit.