Houston, we have a problem.................before removing the MAF sensors from the stock intake, I used a marker to show airflow direction so I wouldn't install the sensor in the wrong direction. It looked as if the mounting plate was symmetrical but the sensor is made to go on one way so you can't screw it up. This when I found out that the sensor mounting blocks were welded on backwards! I'm pretty dang sure that the MAF is directional because it can only be installed in one direction.

I'm going to check it again when I get home and also compare it to the Stillen y-pipe.

If the mounting blocks are indeed backwards I'll take the pipe to a local machine shop and have them cut them off just below the screw holes and turn the top section 180 degrees and re-weld them back on. With luck they can get it done tomorrow. While I'm having them do that I'll also have them spread the ends apart a little more. They need to be around .5 inch apart but were .219 when I first got the pipe. I used a wood wedge to spread them apart so that both silicone couplers and clamps will fit. I think some heat is needed to spread it any further.

I was expecting to have some issues being that the kit is so new. Top has been great helping me out and I am supplying him with useful information about the install instructions and any issues I've had. Team work!

I just got back from a work trip. Ill check out the rest of the pipes tonight. Hopefully!!!...They just put those on backwards.

Let me know the cost of the fabrication on those flanges and ill Paypal you the funds.


BTW. TBatt did text and say the windex trick "worked like a charm". It really does make a tough coupler slide around with ease.

I dropped the pipe off at a local fabricator and they should have the blocks turned around by the end of the day today. With luck I can get things finished up on Saturday.

The shop just called and they have my pipe fixed. They are great about serving walk-in business. Same day service is hard to find in shops these days.

When I walked in with the pipe he said that it looked like it came off of a super charger setup before I had told him anything. Old guys rule!

Maybe tomorrow will be a good day and I can get this beast fired up. Now THAT will make for a good fathers day!!!!!!

Success!!!!

Fired her up around 12:30. Dang that SC rattles a lot. It's a good thing that I knew that they do when they are at idle speed. One of my other motor head buddies drives a CTS V-Spec and he says his SC rattles like crazy after a cold start. He said it sounds like it is full of marbles!

If you have the hood closed and the windows up you can't hardly hear it. I would hate to give away my little secret at a traffic light......

The test drive didn't go so well. The car was rather jerky at low throttle but was fine with a bit of load on it. I came back home and did a Idle Air Volume re-learn and it helped a lot but it still isn't quite right. Service engine light came on after about 10 minutes of light driving. I'll go check the code and see what's up.

At least the install is almost done. I need to get the gauges installed too. The oil pressure sensor wires are going to have to be extended as they are way too short. No big deal for me but just another thing to do before I can be done.

The custom EcuTek tune will take place next Saturday. Until then I have to baby the car. I still get a little swoosh from the BOV just driving lightly, no flutter from the stock Stillen BOV so far.

The sound of the SC spinning up is sooooooooo sexy! Sounds great mixed in with the FI exhaust. Now I have to behave for a whole week before I can play with my car. I'll continue to drive it so that any problem that might be waiting for me can be discovered before heading over to Z1. It is about a 3 1/2 hour drive so I want the car to have plenty of shake down time before heading out.

I'll post a dyno chart after the tune.

The Service Engine Soon (SES) light was caused by a Lean Bank 1 issue. That explains the wandering idle and rough light load at low rpm. As soon as I push the throttle the engine seems happy again and at speeds above 45 mph she seems to be fine. I'm thinking that the fuel map is off on the low rpm side. Cruise at 60 mph and above is fine.

The AFR gauge is going in tomorrow night so that may help understand what the issue is. I am a little confused about why the idle would be so lean. That part of the map should be virtually stock except that it needs to be leaned out because of the larger injectors. Fuel pressure is running in the mid 50s so it has plenty to work with. Anyone else seen this problem?

I did try both tunes that Stillen provided and they run about the same at idle. I have NOT gone above 3K rpm and all of that has been with very little throttle input. I'm babying her.

Paypal sent for cost to flip MAF flanges.

Got it. Thanks!

The car seems to be running much better now. I think the ECU was just out of whack after the canned tune load.

Gauges are installed. I took some pictures but forgot to transfer them from my camera. I'll try and get that done tonight. One step closer........

Be sure to post some vids of ur dyno/tune session

Will do using my phone.

Oh CRAP!

When I got off work and went out to start the Z it was taking a real long time for the engine to start. When it did it was running very rough. It settled down while I was plugging in my GPS and I proceeded on. As soon as I got on the Interstate I could tell that something was wrong as my AFR was pegged at 18! The car was bucking and not happy. I pulled over and looked a my fuel pressure gauge (under the hood) and it was only reading about 40 psi when it should be in the mid 50's. As I was limping the car home it kept getting worse. When I finally got home the fuel pressure had dropped to less than 20!

The pump runs when the car is turned on and then shuts off as if it has reached it's pressure cut off however the pressure gauge is still only showing 20 psi.

I'm pretty sure that the pump should run continuously and excess flow is returned inside of the pump. At least that was what I remembered it doing when it was working correctly. Does anyone know if the pump is supposed to run continuously?

Anyway the trip to Z1 is off until I can fix the problem. Robert at Z1 was very understanding and wished me luck. I had pre-paid for two nights stay that I'll lose too. Double CRAP!

I'm open to ideas. I hate the thought of taking the pump out. I have full tank of gas and that will need to be drained of at least three gallons so it doesn't spill out. It is 105 degrees now. I wonder if the temperature sensor has anything to do with this problem.

CRAP, CRAP, CRAP!

Here are the pictures of the gauge installation.

I just got off the phone with Stillen. They think I have a bad fuel pump and are sending me a replacement. Either way I have to pull the pump out to see what the problem is. Guess I'll be doing that this Saturday. I am NOT looking forward to that! Seriously, the fuel pump is a PITA.

Question: I'm thinking back about the fuel pump problem and the pump may have been bad from the beginning. I noticed that when the pump was running it was way louder than the stock pump which I could barely hear at all. The 255 Walbro pump could be heard while the engine is running above the FI TDX exhaust system. Compared to the stock pump, should this pump be that loud?