So your not air cooling it?


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I think he is saying he will be putting the mafs after the Y, right before throttle bodies. This could make for a rough idle and harsh cruising but we will see.

But, chase, are you saying you are pulling the cooler out of the mani?

It does if you're full speed density tuning.

Sure, using air to cool the water which cools the air :icon14:

That's true but my car is a 7at so you can't do that.


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Are you going to use a frozen boost cooler then? If so do you need one? I have one in my garage, I tried that first.


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Hadn't considered that. Makes sense now that you mention it.

Already have one mounted up thanks. In the final lap of my install.

It will work for short runs but if you plan to track the car the a2a would work way better.


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No the cooler in the manifold is staying, would be nothing to cool the air if I did that.

I ran through the plan with Seb before starting my build (and during, repeatedly lol) and he suggested it would make for a smoother idle with that setup than full SD tuning, and would work well together as a whole. Guess we will find out soon enough.

Won't argue that point, and I'll likely end up there. But this is at least going to be a whole lot better than the stock Stillen setup.

It will be better as long as it's short burst. It was way better than the Stillen cooler but a 25 min track session would get it crazy hot! I liked it and it was an improvement but a2a is far better for a track situation, if you only push it 20 seconds at a time it will work fine.


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Partially correct. The hybrid tune he does utilizes maf for idle and cruising and partial throttle then switches to SD at wot. However, unless I am wrong, you need a straight line before and after the maf to negate turbulent air to get a good flow across the sensor, preferably about 3 to 4 inches on both sides.

You are right though, it will be better than the original design.

If guys remember, I used to epoxy air flow straighteners into the pipes in fear of rough idle and harsh partial but I placed enough straight section into the pipe to negate the honeycomb. The mafs actually don't care about turbulent air at wot as the engine is ingesting so much air that it numbs the sensor.

I had to use them in mine also, if the air isn't evenly split and straight it will make you crazy!


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I'll sketch out my planned design for new charge pipe and see what you guys think. I knew I should try to have straighter air before the sensor but hadn't really contemplated after the sensor.

There's two ideas; one literally puts the MAF before the TB then the pipe bends away. So it would be going straight into the TB a couple inches past the sensor. This limits how much straight pipe can be pre-sensor as there is only about an extra inch of clearance for routing towards the inner fender and shock tower than the stock Stillen piece.

The second is to have slight bends at the TB then straighten out again, which is there the MAF would be, then Y together and make the last bend back towards tophe blower. This would provide pretty straight air both before and after the sensor.

Also contemplated is how to make sure the air before the Y will be separated into the two pipes to maintain the same flow to each - or am I overthinking that last part and isn't co pletely necessary.

Both of those comments each address an aspect of my last question there. Thanks!